FabiaAutomatic

Yes, this is still confusing me. I would expect some residual oil if it "drained away". Normally oil is difficult to disperse, but this sensor was totally dry. It led me to think it isn't operated directly by oil at all, but by a plunger inside the head. I've thought some more about this since my last post, and I think it's worth doing as above suggestion, i.e. unscrewing it and running the engine - at the weekend, I'm busy working until then ... Luckily I can use a different car.

The oil is below threshold at first startup, yet there is no light .... that's because the on/off switch has been routed through the computer, to interpret it, instead of just displaying the result on the dashboard, like most other cars I've owned in the past. 🙂

Hello Breezy-Pete, thank you, you are right! When disconnected, the oil light eventually shows (after nearly 20 seconds) but it's on the MFD (Multi-function display) in this Elegance model, not on the rev counter with all the other lights (where it should be in my opinion). It takes a long time, and, if there was no oil, then some significant damage could be done in that 20 seconds. Video link is below, so that others can see how it works. (The wire comes off easily in the video because I'd previously unclipped it, so I could remove it with one hand, holding the camera.) I think Skoda have tried to be too clever here, and an on/off switch would be adequate. So it's possible my old switch is fine. By the way, the new one was a proper Skoda one. Thinking this through, my test doesn't actually prove the pressure switch is working, merely that it's providing a signal all the time. To test it more, and prove it drops the signal when there's no oil pressure, I'd have to unscrew it, re-connect it and then run the engine with it unscrewed. But I think I'll leave well alone now. Thank you for your help. Video link: https://youtu.be/Ae1Ofbnhhtk

ok, will do, thank you, will try early this week.

Ok, I'll try (not tonight, now it's dark) but I thought at idle it would need to alert if the oil pressure somehow fell to nothing. The engine would be damaged at idle. Also, I thought it should show at a cold startup, just to show the light is working, like the other lights do.

No, I shall do if that's what it takes, but I'd assumed that with the connector unplugged the light would be red?

Hello, I tried this and with the wire removed there is still no light! I replaced the oil switch anyway, as this is quite a cheap attempt at a repair, and there is no difference. Also noticed that the old one, when I took it out, has no oil on it, nor could I find any oil in the recess it screws into. Picture below. So, the oil way to the switch is blocked? And someone (previous owner) has disabled the red light, so that it doesn't constantly display? Apart from this, the engine is working fine. Not sure where I go from here!

Thank you Alasdair1, that looks like my situation with the lights, the ignition light is on so the engine hasn't started, but the oil light isn't there apart from the warning (which I don't have). I know it has both level checking and pressure checking, but wasn't sure how it responds to one or both.

I randomly noticed that my oil light didn't seem to be on the dash when I started up. Couldn't remember where it was, or even it it should light up when you first switch on. Picture below from the short video I made when starting the car. Can someone advise - should there be an oil light at first, and can you post a picture of your mk2 (petrol) starting up? What could the problem be?

Hello, Many thanks for this faraz, it worked! Who would have thought you need the hazards on 🙃

Ok, thank you for the replies, I shall try the procedure a few more times!

Started to think about putting new plugs in. They do look well recessed, is there a special tool to get the leads off?

We had the car serviced in March, but then in May (one year from the previous service) the reminder pops up on the dash when it's started. I've followed (I think) the procedure, as found on YouTube: to turn on with the 0.0 pressed, look at the "reset" message, and press ok. But then it says ding "Inspection required" or similar, and keeps coming back. I wonder what I'm doing wrong?

Yes, you're right. But only after it's spent a good 3 seconds wearing out the odd-shaft clutch. And, if it's managed to move the car even 1 inch, it carries on trying and doesn't back off! This surely isn't right. The DSG has been around for 20 years, and been tweaked over the years, yet this bug was still there in 2014 .... I wonder does the mark 3 (with the 1.0 3-cylinder) do the same?

Hello, A question for those with experience of Fabia DSG autos- I pull up at traffic lights, apply handbrake, take my foot off the brake pedal, and after a second or two the car tries to move forwards. Even with the handbrake on tight, it will start to move, unless the handle is up really tight, and even then it's still wearing out the clutch ☹️ (Note: it has recently had new rear shoes and handbrake cables, and it was doing this feature before). Whereas, if I keep my foot gently on the brake pedal, it doesn't try to move. Odd, because the car knows the handbrake is on (the light comes on the dash) but it doesn't stop trying unless it knows the footbrake is on. I know I could either (1) sit there with my foot on the brake, or (2) select neutral, but I shouldn't have to do either of those. It's the first car I've had which does this - even a Golf diesel DSG lease car I was driving for a while didn't do this. Seems to me the car should recognise the handbrake and not try to move until it's released, just as it does with the footbrake? Does anyone's Fabia do the same, or different for that matter?

Hello, thank you again. I've just been watching this video, although it's more about corrosion on the contacts than the broken wires, but do you know which colour wire would be the one specifically taking the signal from the lock when turned by the key? All other central locking functions seem to work ok.

Thank you - is this a common problem? Presumably need to disconnect battery before poking around in there, as the wires will be "live" without the engine on.

Our Skoda locks and unlocks ok with the remote buttons on the key. But - just in case the battery fails - we tried it with the key, and turning the key in the door lock doesn't unlock the car. Just wondering if that's correct! What is the procedure if the remote doesn't work?

Ok, thank you. 🙂

Hello, new owner here, just acquired Mk2 DSG Auto Elegance:- About to replace a tyre, does it have pressure-sensing valves, or standard ones? Thank you for any advice.