Genoa1893
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Posts posted by Genoa1893
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Car is 2018, just 83K kilometers (just 51K miles). Two weeks ago while I was in Switzerland a low level for coolant blinked on my dashboard. I topped it and after a while I got the same warning and indeed no coolant enough. It was detected the famous leak of the water pump. The engine oil was just warm (always less than 100°C)
She was brought to an official Skoda dealer in Frauenfeld (CH) which "offered" water pump, belt and even screws replacement for an astonishing 2500 CHF (2200 GBP).
No comment...
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Driven as usual, it's waaayy better
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On 23/07/2021 at 09:29, varaderoguy said:
That's the one. Yes....it really makes a difference.
Tried this afternoon,
I found that linear behavior for throttle pedal was already configured.
I got errors I could not clear when I tried changing the front assist to Audi suggested by the video, so I rolled back to the original one (for ACC) while keeping the audi mod for the engine and no errors...
I also configured increased traction, disabled the rough road "optimization" and set XDS to aggressive w/no errors.
Driven gently, it's hard to spot the difference. I could not yet stomp my foot, but so far so good.
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Thanks a lot, and kudos for your VRS!
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On 18/07/2021 at 20:27, varaderoguy said:
3) To get over the glitchy power delivery, I have implemented the Audi power delivery mod on Module 44 (Steering module). Basically, the steering module looks after the throttle pedal. Did you know that all Skoda/VW/Seat cars have a time based power delivery mechanism as opposed the Audi Direct Input method (ie what you press - directly correlates to the power of the engine). Its no small thing to say that this has transformed the performance of the car - the engine has stopped fighting the gearbox; it is now wonderful to drive. My husband has gone from hating the car to loving it.
I now have a really good VRS.....the loving relationship is back....I'm now loving it again.
Sorry if it has perhaps been requested one million times, but is the mod for the VRS like this one?
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Thanks for your answer. Sadly I couldn't find anything... the phone is supposed to ring (i.e it is not muted), but after pairing I keep getting no sounds from the car speakers (nor from the phone itself).
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Hi all,
it seems I can't be gifted with ANY ringing tone when my new Oneplus 6t is paired to latest bolero via BT.
This is a mess since it's supposed the driver stares at the street and NOT at the dashboard to see IF anybody is calling...
More, the user profile info provide no options for choosing/modifying the ring tone, and get one different from silence.
No whatsovere support from Oneplus, of course. Am I alone with such an issue?
I've previously used Samsung, both with OEM os and with LineageOS, AND IT WORKED flawlessly.
Now, I'd rather try LG G7 thinq. Any Bluetooth issues around??
Thanks,
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Same here on latest Bolero, a Octy MkIII, and a 6T... I guess Oneplus is to blame. This is the first and last Oneplus for me...
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I too think the mobile is the culprit, there. I've an old s4 and AA works fine, way better than my previous Amundsen, honestly.
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Great roads there, and nice landscape to drive and walk or climb.
For CUNA engine, Tim from opieoils suggested me to use the Titan Race Pro C3 5w-30.
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On non DSG this was the recommended practice. I would stick to high rev suggestions, too.
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...I'm pretty sure the OP didn't choose to have the DPF...
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@Offski, thanks for raising up the haldex oil subject, I was thinking of refreshing it too
! About the specs, in my previous Octavia (PD170, CR150) I always topped up and changed oil, staying within specs. I want an oil that protects my car when "stretching her legs", can't see the reason why save a couple quid on oil which is essential to car proper running, this at least IMO. And I agree with you I bet they are not bothered at all (that's why I don't necessarily trust factory recommendations, and can't trust at all Long Life)
@BATVANVRS If I read well, I think that 5w-40 would be a little too thick at "normal" ambient temperature, at least for a new engine. I fear it might impair engine fluidity, at some degree, at least.
Thanks for feedback
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@BATVANVRS Thanks for your genuine opinion and great suggestion about the Briskoda parts section. I was just reading opieoils and looking at that Motul.
I'm perfectly fine when I'm told that different oils may result very similarly (this is a forum, and I asked for feedback and opinion, not to hear "Yes, you're wright") but any chemical engineer will laugh at sentences negating the sometimes huge differences among oils, although complying to same standards.
Thanks for sharing
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18 hours ago, Offski said:
Genoa1893, are you telling me that there are Engine oils for diesels that are not black after 5,000 km?
I am interested which is why when i started as an apprentice mechanic we changed oil in diesels every 30,000 miles. Over 4 decades ago.
Are you kidding? No, I didn't say that. I told that since oil does get dirty black after jusy a few miles and since is the first oil put in the engine, I want to change it sooner AND I asked for first hand knowledge or experience with supposed better performing oils.
Don't see the reason why you posted all of that pictures since the point that oil gets black in diesels is well known and I bet it's pretty well known that oil in petrol is generally cleaner (at around the same mileage).
Anyway don't want to turn this in a one to one discussion. I'm not saying you have to change your oil sooner, but asking for opinion on oils.
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Guys, I'm not saying Castrol isn't fine, just was interested in your first hand experience (if any) with supposed better quality oils.
@Offski Don't know if you are interested, and it depends on how you care for your engine, but there are definitely differences among oils - and - if you look at the color of oil in diesel engines after a few mile (easy to check on your dipstick), you will perhaps change idea about the opportunity to change it more frequently. If there is engine break-in (and in my world, there is also in mowadays engines), the thin metal debris will keep circulating. Thanks anyway for your thoughts, but I rest on my not "clever" idea.
@shyVRS245...because of commercial agreements, first of all
, then because in the end it doesn't harm. This doesn't mean it is the best choice
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HI all,
being old school, long before first mandatory oil change I think of exchanging my oil having less than 5000Km.
Given VW50x, and the fact that IIRC Skoda officially recommends Castrol EDGE 5W-30 LL, does anybody know if there is a better quality oil available (e.g. motul 8100 x-clean+, or.....)?
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4 hours ago, Rodge said:
I'd be more interested in a hybrid that replaced the complete mechanical transmission with an electrical one. IE rip out the clutch, gearbox, differential, drive shaft, alternator and starter motor etc and replace it all with a generator-motor system that allowed the engine to always run at its most efficient speed and loading. Most hybrids seem to keep the conventional mechanical transmission.
100% Agreed
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Welcome back! I agree DSG is really nice.
For your steering wheel, I found something here:
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=374042
Hope it helps,
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...and the pockets
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Can't remember right now, yet it "sounded", and - look - I have the Canton unit: sound is pretty good but lacks power.
The MKII with Canton had more juice!
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Eheheh, old school is old school
You make me feel wire my old Sony unit as a final to make it sound a bit more powerful!
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Good work! Thanks for sharing
! About the specs, in my previous Octavia (PD170, CR150) I always topped up and changed oil, staying within specs. I want an oil that protects my car when "stretching her legs", can't see the reason why save a couple quid on oil which is essential to car proper running, this at least IMO. And I agree with you I bet they are not bothered at all (that's why I don't necessarily trust factory recommendations, and can't trust at all Long Life)
, then because in the end it doesn't harm. This doesn't mean it is the best choice
The Mk3 Octavia TDI water pump thread
in Skoda Octavia Mk III (2013 - 2020)
Posted · Edited by Genoa1893
It happened that I kindly answered I would have taken my car back without letting them work on it! I must say they were anyway very friendly and even topped the coolant for free.
Then I happily drove back to Italy (I mean +450Km) and - apart from stopping several times to top it up - I had no whatsoever hint of overheating of water nor of oil. Water temp raised progressively to 90°C and holded, maximum oil temp I saw (I kept monitoring water and oil temp) was 107°C while climbing the mountains but the temperature was clearly under car control, and typically was around 100°C (perfect value, would say).
This morning she's recovered in a Skoda garage in Italy.
For sure this pump (?) failure didn't kill the car.