[Octavia SDI O4 MK1]

That really clarified the issue - Many thanks for taking the time to explain things.

[Octavia SDI O4 MK1]

ABS blake bleeding is a basic setting so you need to have a registered copy of the software. You can use VCDS Lite but it must be a registered copy.

Thanks for that:

I was under the impression that VCDS lite only permitted analysis and fault code interaction, not active measures such as ABS cycling - so thats great news.

Could you inform me, what exactly I need to buy and from where? Also, do I need a CAN Bus interface, or an earlier version due to it being an old o4 mk1 Octavia?

Many Thanks

[Octavia SDI O4 MK1]

Hi Guys. Any idea what interface type do I need. I need to cycle the ABS during a pressurised bleed - The drum brake/wheel cylinder popped, and she bled out overnight, so I definitely need to cycle the ABS.

Many Thanks.

[Octavia Alternator Removal]

Interphase: Many thanks Your advice was totally correct, it was just being held by an interference fit via the spacers. It came of easy enough on an SDI - I just did the following.

1. Disconnect battery earth - 10mm nut.

2. Remove top engine cover - 2 * 10mm recessed nuts, so 1/4" drive 10mm socket required.

3. Using a gear wrench serpentine belt tool, (so much easier than a long 16mm 0 degree-offset ring spanner) I removed the tension from the v-belt tensioner, and secured it under tension with a 4mm Allen key (a small nail would also be fine.)

4. I then removed the three 13mm bolts securing the v-belt tensioner ( easy to access with a 13mm ratchet spanner or combination or socket) and removed tensioner from top of engine - it comes up easy with loads of room!

5. Removed the two long 13mm bolts securing the alternator (top and bottom and from the left side looking into the engine bay.)

6 Following interphase's advice, I then levered the alternator out, as it was now just being held by the tension from the spacers (see advice from interphase - above.)

7. Then turning the alternator so that I could see the back, I pulled out the two-pin connector - I undid the battery cable secured by a 13mm nut - I undid the cable securing nut with a 8mm 1/4 drive socket.

8. I then removed the alternator from the top of engine - it came up easily with loads of spare room.

9. Fitting was a reversal of the above, using a new v-belt. Don't be intimidated fitting a v-belt on an sdi - there are not many pulleys to worry about. Make sure the arrow on the belt faces the direction of rotation, and if you get confused remember that the belts grooves fit into grooved pulleys, and that the smooth back of the belt, fits against smooth idler pulleys.

Ps: You do not need to go under the car, and you do not need to remove the power steering pump - everything is done from the top down as described above.

Pps: I changed to a spare alternator because I heard my Pulley clutch going last night - at tickover it just goes pop, and your battery light comes on, and it starts screeching as you increase power demands - lights. demister etc.

The pulley had in fact disappeared completely and the tensioner ensures that the v-belt is driving the bare shaft. I hear that at higher rpm's the pop becomes a bang!

TTFN.

[Octavia Alternator Removal]

Managed to get it back together last night (mostly). The alternator I was given did not want to go straight in, as the gap between the mountings on the alt were smaller than the distance on the engine, so I had to use a socket and G Clamp to pull the threaded parts through the casting on the alt, after that it went on fine. It took me ages to work out what to do with the belt and tensioner, so another visit to the Briskoda website was called for, which told me that I could move the tensioner with a 19mm spanner, so with a bit of tube on the end of the spanner, and the belt on all the pulleys except the a/c one, which was nearest to me underneath, I pulled the tensioner load off and slipped the belt over the last pulley, no bother. One tip I can give is to protect the radiator when your are getting the alt in place, as the fins will take a bashing if you don't, assuming like me you have removed the o/s fan.

If you have the time, it is definitely worth doing the job yourself, given the cost, it is fairly straight forward, just allow plenty of time, and get some thin gloves, as the plastics cut your hands to hell when your spannering the bolts.

All I have to do tonight is get the covers back on, and fingers crossed, start it!

Hope this helps

Neil

Bump:

Hi guys. Can anyone tell me how many bolts secure the alternator. I removed the two long 13mm bolts as per the Haynes manual - one top and one bottom, but it doesn't want to move. The v-belt and tensioner are already removed. The twin point electrical connector is removed, as is the battery cable and nut. What have I missed, that is preventing me from removing the alternator?

[Thank You for your help]

Hello:

This is my first post.

I had a problem with my 2004 Octavia 1.9SDI. The glow plug light came on a little while ago, and then yesterday night; my brake lights packed up.

Having searched your forum, I realised that both problems were caused by a faulty brake switch. Using your advice; I stripped the lower facia, and replaced the switch, and now everything is fine again.

Also when I mislocated a couple of fuses, I used another of your threads to identify their correct locations.

Many thanks for providing this really useful forum, and special thanks to all the knowledgable people who have taken their time to post.

Good on you all

Mark.