rich453
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Posts posted by rich453
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If you remove some of the body plugs you should notice a white waxy material. If you fancy using a good product try Bilt Hamber products. I've used for years on various cars, including my current Octy and without it the underneath would be rusty. As there is only a light layer of paint underneath, I would be more worried about that. However, get underneath your car and have a good look round to assess what you might need to do. My car has 135k and underneath is immaculate due to regular wax sprays.
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Leather upgrade from dealers was a £1400 option which is exactly as in the picture. Mine has the same and it was carried out by the dealer.
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Check inside your intercooler pipes and your under tray. You may find some of your oil there ☺️ The rest will probably be sticking to your intake areas.
Amazing engine though...mine has just clocked 111,000 miles.
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Hi folks,
has anyone used the Ecotek Power Boost foam, any an Octavia VRS, to try and clean up the intake? If so, what are your opinions on it? Also, where did you apply it? Just downstream of the MAF or elsewhere?
Cheers!
Having cleaned my intakes out, I wouldn't waste my money on those particular products.
I'm with R8MXX
You haven't said what your mileage is but if you've done more than 50,000miles then I'd be getting a borescope into the inlet (via the air temp sensor) and having a look at the valves & airflow splitters.
You can buy a 6mm borescope with LEDs for about GBP13 at AliExpress / eBay, etc.
You'll need to tie the tumble flaps open (I just use a rubber strap).
Spend your money on a borescope and check.
Don't delay checking as you can eventually get over fuelling which will see your mpg drop quite a bit.
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I had similar issues with mpg, idle and revs between 1500 and 2500rpm. After checking various parts, I used a borescope to check internally and it had severe coking of the inlet areas. Everything was cleaned etc and the issues disappeared.
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How many miles? Probably find your rear shocks are on their way out. Take a measurement from the centre of the wheel to the centre of the wheel arch and it should be 365 + or - 10mm.
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Last one...happy fitting.
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Diagrams...
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Instructions...diagrams to follow
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Yes I have instructions. I will try to dig them out for you.
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You may find the plastic is cracked. The only way to sort is to use glue. I caught mine with my trousers and glued it back in. You may find taking the wheel off to get better access.
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I've just fitted a Bilstein B12 kit to replace knackered OE shocks with Eibach springs. The OE shocks were so bad it looked like the car was on coil overs. Not too bad as they managed 90k. Incidentally it passed the MOT with flying colours just the week before. I suppose a shiny car made all the difference! I also replaced the strut tops, drop links and rear bump stops plus all the stretch bolts.
As for ride and handling, it has transformed the car. It's firm but sporty firm as a Vrs should be. It goes round roundabouts extremely well and handles our smooth UK roads with ease;-)
I've always used bilstein on my cars so I'm kinda biased. It's a very personal choice and can be an expensive mistake if you don't like your choice. One other thing to consider is your tyres as this may affect the ride. Different compounds and sizes etc.I use Michelin PS3 92Y.
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Yep, mine did the same although I caught it before it fell apart. I ordered a new one from a dealership (although its a yellowy orange as opposed to dark orange). My mate who had a Seat had the same issue. IIRC a new one is about 9 quid. Mine lasted 5 years.
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Yes you're correct. I experienced a similar issue but was fortunate that once the bolt had sheared it could be undone by hand. Also do not lubricate the bolts. They need to go in dry.
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A few weeks back my 57 plate petrol Vrs developed a hesitation around 2k to 3k rpm. No faults were logged and after checking the basics still no cure. I then started checking the vacuum pipes and found one with a split. I glued the split and it didn't cure it. I ordered the part anyway 1KO612041GM (BM was originally fitted but is no longer available) plus a blank 056129777. On closer inspection and checking the one way valve in the assembly it appeared the valve was at fault. Now I've fitted the part, the hesitation has gone and it goes as it should do.
Incidentally the mileage is 81K.
Thanks for reading....
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I'm looking at fitting B14's in the next month or so. Coupled with the poly bushes (already fitted) it will make a good car even better!!
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B14 PSS kit.
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I've got Eibach pro's fitted on std shocks.Just done over 60K on 'em (mainly motorway miles). Top mounts in my experience are probably good for 60K. If you stick to original shocks you will find it bouncy on country roads and if you don't shorten the bump stops you will bottom out (especially if you've got 2 large adults in the back!!) which can be fun/dangerous!!! I'm now just about to replace shocks/springs and top mounts. However I will not be going down the FSD route...Bilsteins for me
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S3 jack pads work a treat. Did cambelt change and front suspension bushes. Couldn't have done it without them.
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To transmission (2 off bolts) stage 1. is 30lb ft then angle tighten 90 degrees. To subframe stage 1. 74lb ft then angle tighten 90 degrees. They are stretch bolts and should be replaced. When you do it, paint a line on bolt head to get angle if you haven't got the right kit. Plus don't use any grease on the bolts because it will not torque correctly. They are designed to go in dry.
Also torque the transmission bolts first followed by the subframe bolt.
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I've just replaced my cambelt on my TFSI and it was starting to crack in between all teeth. Mine is exactly 4 yrs old and has 55K.
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One time use only. They are torqued and then angle tightened just like a head bolt. If you were to use em again they would probably break but also you wouldn't achieve the correct torque. Not good on an engine mount or anywhere else!
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Probably got corrosion on. Had similar prob with mine. Could be a simple job by just getting any garage to use their air powered tools to remove them. Then put some copper grease on so they don't corrode on again.
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Got a great deal on my demonstrator, got 5K off and it came with full leather!!
Defiant Driveshaft Nut - New Drive Shaft or Just CV Joint?
in Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013)
Posted
Original bolts are usually hex with a thick washer and new replacement driveshaft bolts are bi hex with no washer. Once the head of the bolt has been removed this will allow the shaft to be knocked through the hub (other parts will need to be undone and new bolts will be required for assembly as some are stretch bolts) and as the threaded part is not tight it should be able to be unscrewed. A relatively simple task but time consuming. Hence why a garage will opt for shaft replacement.
Good luck with it...