Yohan
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Posts posted by Yohan
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It's a 2010 FL model.
Managed to take a couple of videos which capture it.
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Sounds a bit like the metal scraping noise at 14-19 seconds in this video; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idbQmsRSDqY
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Sounds like it could be a failed bearing somewhere. Could be as simple as an alternator bearing, or as dire as a crankshaft main bearing.
It'll try and get a sound clip of it, might be tricky over the diesel clatter.
Just wondered if there was anything common it could be or a known issue with these CR lumps.
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Hi,
Just noticed this on my car, it sounds like there is a grinding/metallic scraping type noise coming from the engine bay (passenger side perhaps) area.
At idle the noise is consistent and rhythmic and happens around every second. If I apply the throttle (out of gear), the noise occurs quicker as the engine RPM rises until around 2.5-3krpm where I can't hear it anymore due to the engine noise being louder.
Also happens in gear when driving the same as above.
The car has FSH.
Any ideas please?
Thanks.
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I normally just use Pagid discs and pads from ECP.
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Hello,
Looking to replace the brakes and pads on my Octy vRS (2010 FL) model.
I've read some conflicting information about sizes and unfortunately the sticky at the top of the page doesn't have the sizes at present.
Can somebody please confirm the sizes of the front and rear discs for me?
Cheers
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Well, bit the bullet and paid Skoda Aberdeen to update it.
An hours labour :(
Scanned it again and it's now at Version 054 so I assume that's the latest for that model.
Plus side, SD card is flying now, music starts playing as soon as the ingition is turned on
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Cheers guys.
I have a Nextbase 402G on the front which is great quality.
A couple of months after fitting it, some **** on their phone rear ended me. Couldn't prove he was on his phone, with a rear camera I could've.
Was just thinking about getting a cheaper Nextbase variant for the rear as rear enders are usually fairly conclusive.
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I think Revo are quite conservative with their figures.
HOWEVER,
I'd be less worried about peak numbers and more interested in seeing dyno curves for how that power is delivered. More area under the curve will make for a much nicer driver/quicker car all round.
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I would just use an OEM filter, cheap enough from your local TPS branch
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Morning, happy Friday
I have a dashcam in the front of my car which takes a switch live from the fuse box. Nice and easy.
I've decided I'd like a small dash cam for the rear as well. Just wondered what the best options were in the boot for taking a switched live (comes live with ignition on)?
Cheers
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Checked tonight and I have similar behaviour to Vegasphi - when ASR or ESP are disabled the light stays lit without flashing.
If you press the ESP button very quickly, nothing happens.
A slightly slower press (maybe a tenth of a second) disables ASR with a notification shown on the maxidot and the ESP light lit.
A long press (maybe 1-2 seconds) disables ESP with a notification shown on the maxidot and the ESP light lit.
All I can suggest is that you post up your cluster information (from VCDS) to see if someone with the same cluster also has a flashing ESP light when it's disabled.
Is this the one you're after?
Address 17: Instruments (J285) Labels: 5K0-920-xxx-17.clb
Part No SW: 1Z0 920 903 J HW: 1Z0 920 903 J
Component: KOMBI H06 0305
Serial number: 00000000000000
Coding: 410B00
Shop #: WSC 73430 031 00999
ASAM Dataset: EV_Kombi_UDS_VDD_RM09 A04052
ROD: EV_Kombi_UDS_VDD_RM09_SK35.rod
VCID: 3C72A099B79FE1DE62-8068
No fault code found.
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Weird, it makes no sense why they'd behave differently. It's the "indicates a control cycle has been activated" bit in the manual that confuses me.
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Hi,
Trying to turn ESP off on my Octy Mk2 vRS (2010 FL model).
Firstly, the button in the centre console is the car skidding icon which I assume is ESP.
Secondly, pressing the button once does nothing, I need to hold it.
When I hold it, the ESP (car skidding light) on the cluster starts flashing. In previous cars the equivalent would stay lit.
This goes against the Skoda manual as well which says flashing "indicates a control cycle has been activated" but helpfully doesn't tell you what that is.
Car is 100% fault code free.
Can somebody explain please?
Cheers
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SuperPro is about £35 more, same as the Whiteline price roughly.
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I was going to be ordering from Awesome but I've decided to go for SuperPro instead. They have more reviews with no complaints. I'm sure PowerFlex would be fine though.
I just wondered because if they try to align it to factory spec then obviously the caster will never line up.
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Thanks.
I normally put new batteries in the key fobs at the same time. If the car battery dies then it won't be getting driven anyway.
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So this has grown arms and legs since my original question
If I may interrupt this discussion briefly, how does one change the servicing reminder back from longlife to fixed? I can't find this in my manual.
Thanks
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Here's a Darkside one;
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Is it really the same? This sentence puts me off getting the Powerflex one: "This polyurethane bush fits into the rear position of the front arm and provides anti-lift properties and 1° of caster offset. It is designed to complement PFF85-501G that fits into the front position of the same arm to provide +/- 0.5° degrees of camber adjustment."
So powerflex 1 degree vs Whiteline 0.5 degree out of the box?
I thought the same so asked Al at Awesome GTI, he assures me the Powerflex kit puts everything in the same position as the Whiteline variant.
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I'm used to the older generation of VAGs (Golf Mk4s etc) where it was wise to fit a de-lock kit.
Is this something that is still recommended on the newer models?
2010 Mk2 vRS TDI - Grinding noise that increases with engine RPM
in Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013)
Posted
Sounds like it's a known issue;
http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/381825-check-your-clutch-very-expensive-known-fault/
http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/363426-clutch-eats-gearbox-and-bank-balance/
Car is booked in to Skoda for an inspection :(