Conor305

never updated this, but it was a worn steering rack, replaced it with one out of a scrapyard and huge difference, car now has 271k miles on it and this rack is past its best now,time for another one

the hazards were working fine, just not the indicators or main beams, really odd, cheers, conor

thanks, i have had the foggy windows for a couple of months now, tracked one leak down to hatchback seal, which i think i've sorted by punching holes in bottom of seal, but i will do as you suggest, odd that the indicators wouldnt work at same time, will have a bash at the switch later today, cheers,Conor

thanks, i read somwhere that there is no headlight relay on Octavia 1 , but i will check fuses and relays later today

hi, dipped beam lights would not work this morning, parking lights were fine, no high beam either and no fogs, front or rear , and also no indicators, hazard lights would work, drove car for about 40 minutes and dipped beams suddenly came on by themselves,checked the indicators and they were now working fine, has anyone come across this before please, i don't get the connection between the lights not working and the indicators not working, car is 2003 Octavia 1UZ 1.4 16V, with 228,000 miles, thanks,Conor

cheers,got to the bottom of it on saturday morning, seems that the egr was at fault, it was an exchange one, not brand new,and had stuck wide open, not happy about it and don't understand the relay issue and the pump not priming, going fine now,thanks for the advice,conor

update,powered up the fuel pump using battery charger and it primed every time so am assuming its working fine, replaced fuel pump relay with new one, fired up but wont tick over, will stay running if you give it some throttle but revs fluctuate up and down by about 200 rpm every second, tried using spare key in case immobilizer was the problem. ran the same, put the old relay back in, ran the same, got a p0400 code twice on a cheap fault code reader, but i have only just put a brand new oem egr in it 2 weeks ago,cleared fault and it hasn't showed since,still running the same, see video clip of engine running,any ideas please, many thanks,conor VID_20170706_222920.3gp

cheers, i'll have a look and try that first,conor

hi, have a 2003 octavia 1.4 16v petrol,have it for 11 years,always well maintained, 166000 miles, new timing belt kit at 148000 , changed 8 months ago,yesterday engine stopped dead coming off motorway, no warning, no bangs, tried to restart it twice,full tank of fuel, turns over but won't fire, no engine warning light on dash and no fault codes showing on ecu , i note that when i turn on ignition i don't hear any noise from fuel pump as you normally would, anyone have any advice, do pumps fail just like that, or could it be the solenoid cut off or anything else,how can i check which is at fault please,thanks,Conor

update, had ruled out suspension as my mechanic has said all were solid, but steering was so bad it felt like i was sailing it rather than driving it,anyway, brought it to another mechanice, turmed out lower nearside rear wishbone bush was knackered.he replaced the whole wishbone, on both sides,massive improvement, cheers to Brendan Kane Motors.

no play in up / down and i take back my 90% improved, i jumped the gun on that update, it's still very much the same.

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/112185-door-card-removal-from-deadlocked-octavia/ see link above for front door card removal when deadlocked, re the back door, as best i recall i removed whatever i could to take the strain off the door card, ie. the inner handle etc.and them prised off the top of the door card with a large bladed screwdriver,i put the block of wood against the nearest bit of the window motor and gave the block of wood a few thumps.hope this helps,Conor

hi, thanks for tips, replaced the steering rack bush with a powerflex one,fiddly job,took about 2 hours but at least i didn't have to remove subframe,it has improved it by about 90%, stiil feel there's something else though,may have a bash at bush on steering column next,conor

howdy, i had problem with drivers door a few years back, i see someone reposted my thread,hope it helps,i also had another back door that wouldn't open,found a thread on a vw site, prise off top of door card from door frame with window fully down,get a piece of wood and place it between door card and up against the window regulator.get somone else to continually operate the central lock switch on inside of drivers door (open,close,open,close etc) and at same time get a hammer and give the block of wood a few thumps .i was a bit sceptical when i read the thread, but after 3 thumps it opened,that was about 4 years ago, never happened since.best of luck,Conor

Hi I have a 2003 mk 1 Octavia 1.4 petrol with 126k miles on it, have suddenly developed quite a bit of play at the steering wheel,does my head in trying to keep it straight on the motorway,inner and outer tie rods done 6 months ago, all suspension joints are rock solid and no wheel bearing issues.had noticed an occasional squeaking chirping type noise was coming from under dash on drivers side just prior to play developing,no idea if there is a connection,also when staring up from cold, there is one slight knock from steering wheel, but not every time. have read a bit on other threads about steering column bushes,could this be it ? thanks in advance for any advice,Conor

How to remove Octavia door card with door deadlocked. You will need the following - a suitable torx bit - 2 medium to large flat blade screwdrivers - large phillips screwdriver - small phillips screwdriver - a Haynes manual is also a big help. 1. Open window all the way down 2. Remove triangular speaker from front of door at top of door card. Prise off with flathead screwdriver as it is only held on by 2 clips. Disconnect wiring. 3. Prise out small panel for electric mirrors with a flathead screwdriver. Remove phillips screw that is now visible behind the door pull handle. 4. Where you clasp your hand around the handle for, say, pulling the door shut after you get in the car, you will have to look and see that there is a small cylindrical plastic piece, about 10 cm long, that needs prising away with a flathead screwdriver. Remove this piece and then you should be able to prise out the entire panel for the electric switches for the windows and central locking. Remove this panel. Make sure to disconnect the wiring. You will notice that the base is held on by 5 phillips screws. Remove these and then the plastic base. 5. There are now 3 big phillips head screws visible. Remove these and note the order. The middle screw is longer and also has a white plastic bush. 6. Remove the 3 torx head screws from the bottom of the door card. You may have to use the torx bit and a pliers. 7. Pull away the door aperature weather seal from the bottom half of the B post. 8. Remove phillips screw from top piece of the cover that goes over the driver’s side seat belt. This is attached to the B post. Remove the bottom half of the same seat belt cover, attached by clips. From the back seat on the driver’s side you should gain access to the 2 hidden torx screws that were obstructed by the weather seal and seat belt covers. 9. From outside the car prise/lever off the top of the door card from the door frame. Be careful not to catch the window glass. The top of the card will now lift off the top of the door frame. Again, be careful not to damage it. 10. This gave me access to the door release cable which had snapped. Stuck vice grips on and pulled. Door opened. 11. You should now have access to the final set of torx screws that were hidden up against the a post. 12. Remove the red light that is visible when the door is open. Disconnect wiring. Remove tiny red light from extreme top of door panel near B post. Door card shoould now come off. 13. Bear in mind that I had a deadlocked door before I broke the door release cable. I tried thumping the door around the lock area from inside and outside. Tried every combination of pressing buttons and pulling on handles at the same time. Had also used a hair drier to heat up inside the door panel to see if this would help. 14. Note that if you are fitting a new door release cable - I got mine promptly via eBay, thanks Jo - that you don’t need to fully remove door handle and lock barrel. All you need is to remove the two large torx screws that hold the door lock in place. This gives you enough room to get the end of the new cable into its fitting in the lock. You will need help at certain times - thanks Linda - as three hands are needed on occasion. Make sure you fit the outer cable correctly before reassembly. 15. Hope this helps as iIwas 6 weeks getting in and out of the passenger side. 16. Many thanks to all the tips I picked up from members on the site.

how to remove octavia door card with door deadlocked. you will need the following a suitable torx bit 2 medium to large flat blade screwdrivers large phillips screwdriver small phillips screwdriver a haynes manual is also a big help. 1.open window all the way down 2.remove triangular speaker from front of door at top of door card.prise off with flathead screwdriver as it is only held on by 2 clips. disconnect wiring. 3.prise out small panel for electric mirrors with a flathead screwdriver.remove phillips screw that is now visible behind the door pull handle. 4.where you clasp your hand around the handle for ,say,pulling the door shut after you get in the car,you will have to look and see that there is a small cylindrical plastic piece,about 10 cm. Long, that needs prising away with a flathead screwdriver.remove this piece and then you should be able to prise out the entire panel for the electric switches for the windows and central locking.remove this panel.make sure to disconnect the wiring. you will notice that the base is held on by 5 phillips screws.remove these and then the plastic base. 5.there are now 3 big phillips head screws visible.remove these.note the order.middle screw is longer and also has a white plastic bush. 6.remove 3 torx head screws from the bottom of the door card.you may have to use the torx bit and a pliers. 7.pull away the door aperature weather seal from the bottom half of the b post. 8.remove phillips screw from top piece of the cover that goes over the driver’s side seat belt.this is attached to the b post.remove the bottom half of the same seat belt cover,attached by clips.from the back seat on the driver’s side you should gain access to the 2 hidden torx screws that were obstructed by the weather seal and seat belt covers. 9.from outside the car prise /lever off the top of the door card from the door frame.be careful not to catch the window glass.the top of the card will now lift off the top of the door frame.again,be careful not to damage it. 10.this gave me access to the door release cable which had snapped.stuck a vice grips on and pulled.door opened. 11.you should now have access to the final set of torx screws that were hidden up against the a post. 12.remove the red light that is visible when the door is open.disconnect wiring.remove tiny red light from extreme top of door panel near b post.door card shoould now come off. 13.bear in mind that i had a deadlocked door before i broke the door release cable.i tried thumping the door around the lock area from inside and outside.tried every combination of pressing buttons and pulling on handles at the same time.had also used a hair drier to heat up inside the door panel to see if this would help. 14.note that if you are fitting a new door release cable,(i got mine promptly via ebay,thanks jo) that you don’t need to fully remove door handle and lock barrell. all you need is to remove the two large torx screws that hold the door lock in place.this gives you enough room to get the end of the new cable into it’s fitting in the lock.you will need help at certain times,thanks linda,as three hands are needed on occasion. make sure you fit the outer cable correctlty before reassembly. 15.hope this helps as i was 6 weeks getting in and out of the passenger side. 16.many thanks to all the tips i picked up from members on the site.

many thanks,will give it a go.

Hi owner of a 2003 octavia anyone any ideas how to get inner door panel off so as to try to unlock a deadlocked driver's door. Local dealer wants 90 euro to diagnose problem,never mind fix it. Any hints would be much appreciated. Thanks,conor

Hi New to site. owner of a 2003 octavia.My first Skoda after five Opels. driver's door will not open from inside or outside anymore.Inner door panel does not appear to be removable with door shut. local skoda dealer wants 90 euro to DIAGNOSE problem.i know what the problem is. skoda ireland aren't interested at all.tried to get them to repair as a goodwill seeing as it is such an unusual and potentially dangerous problem. tried customer care in skoda head office in czech republic.they're not interested either. Does anyone know if there is a solution to my problem,please. Many Thanks,conor