cmcm789

Thats one I havent watched. Think I have watched dozens in the past 2 weeks. I snook into the local multi storey an hour before closing for my Octy shot. Security guard came over and said as long as i stayed in the corner i was in that was ok as it wasnt covered by CCTV. Sound bloke!

You would really need to see the wheels in the flesh so to speak. The two blended images could've had completely different lighting so not 100% accurate.

Just wondering if anyone has done any car photography and would mind sharing. Having a couple of speedlights lying around i was curious to see what i could produce. Took some shots on my wife's Mazda and then my Octy. The Mazda came out better, as it turns out Black cars are hard to photograph. I've put the images without flash in as well for comparison.

The reason i ask is i am looking to see what a common Dyno graph (before and after) looks like. Need this because i may have concerns about my own but would like to see if i'm being over the top. Thanks

Doesn't inspire me to take photos unfortunately (mob phone shot outside chippy).

Is this your site? was looking forward to seeing the pics but will have to wait till i get home as i can't access through work.

Didn't get to it unfortunately, getting work done at the house and a few problems cropped up. Went to the Japanese Car Event at the Eikon a few weeks ago with the camera and really enjoyed getting a few shots of the exhibitors. Being a Skoda driver and briskoda member i thought I might be able to get some practice with some member Skoda shots. Don't have a car worth photographing myself. Might have to make do with taking the camera and the wife's Mazda 2 Sport (more photogenic than my estate!) out for a day to a scenic location. This is the sort of thing i got at the Eikon: https://www.cmcmullanphotos.com/p1070066786 Might have to wait for Dubshed next year, but having a big grey shed as a backdrop isn't ideal.

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Where exactly? Wouldn't mind going along with camera.

You choose 720 or 1080. That's supposedly 1080p! Honestly i think they compress it so much to save file space so its never gonna be high definition. They're sending a replacement so we'll see if that's any better. Don't expect it will be.

Just brought the SD card to my PC and there is only one set of MOV files on the card, so no option for high or low resolution. I took a screen show from today after lunch, light very good and no bright sun causing glare. This was passing a van in a 30mph limit and the reg isn't legible (when viewed full screen on a 22 inch monitor)

To be honest I wasn't aware there were 2 folders. I'm sure I downloaded it to my phone via wifi and it didn't give me the option of another version through the camera. I then copied the file from my phone to the computer and viewed it. I will double check when I get home. In the meantime since posting originally, Yi have got back to me with a replacement code. Hopefully I get it sorted.

I'm just looking a front mounted dash cam which has decent enough quality to capture number plates in the event of an accident. I won't be hard wiring it and I don't need all the additional functions such as gps recording etc. I recently purchased a Yi compact dash cam for £40 on amazon based on reading online reviews and comparison tests, but the video quality is poor at best. Although it states 1080p at 30fps the quality is not 1080p. My guess is the data has been compressed to reduce file size/ processor needs and this has ruined it. I can't read number plates from still shots of passing traffic in a 30mph zone. I'm trying to arrange to have the camera sent back and refunded but would like to know what my other options are in the lower budget bracket (<£100).

Geoff are you getting it on the rolling road without any tuning or mods? I would be very interested to see what power the 2.0 puts out as standard. Is yours the 150hp version?

Looking to see what's a normal distance between complete DPF regens? I've only had the car (2.0 TDI 150hp) 3 weeks and in that time it's went into regen about 4 times with roughly 150miles driven each time.

Considering a REVO remap with the switch module from a local dealer for the 150TDI. Anyone have any experience of REVO?

Don't jump too quickly or you may regret it. I've had VAG diesels for 20 years, a 1.9 TDI golf, 1.9TDI Mk1 Octy and then a 1.6CRTDI 2010 Octy. Compared with the two before it, the 1.6 was awful, no low down torque worth talking about. When overtaking it felt like I had taken my foot off the accelerator when it hit 3,000 rpm. Also, mine was manual 5 speed and the gears were way too long. The car wouldn't sit comfortably at 30mph in 4th gear, ever! I opted for the remap, as you are considering, to get some more low down torque. Unfortunately you are limited to what you can do. My remapper had a very good reputation and said that he wouldn't increase the torque low down by too much or it could create issues. Instead his maps (along with loads of other things) hold the boost for longer up the rev range. After the remap the car basically felt the same up to about 2,000 rpm, but after that it continued to pull very linearly right to the red line, where it would have dropped off previously. No doubt it was much quicker, very smooth delivery, but still nothing down low and had to be revved to get the best out of it. I now have a 2.0 CR TDI 150bhp and the fun is back. Abundance of low down torque and driveability is fantastic from tick over. But.... it does drop off again near the 4,000/4,500rpm mark so I may start looking into the remap route again to make the higher revs more fun.

Johnny I think at the moment I'm happy enough with the camera operating only when the engine is on. I read a few of the forum posts about installs which were excellent and I also watched a video on youtube of someone removing/ reinstalling the glove box before I started. I haven't wired mine into the fuse box yet as it seems fine on the USB socket and only has about 4 inches of cable exposed coming from under the panel to the left of the centre console to the socket. I placed the camera where I roughly wanted it, tracked the cable under the headline and down the front of the passenger pillar by hand (didn't remove anything). then removed the side panel at the glove box, popped of the little ratchet connection and removed the glove box. I tracked the cable under the glove box, looped up the extra cable and tied it off. Replaced the glove box and all done in about 15 minutes. If I need or want to hard wire it in the future at least I know where the fuse box is and how to access it. Have to say, I'm glad I didn't hard wire it as I may be returning the camera. I went for a Yi £40 1080p one, but the compression on their videos is extreme. Even in broad daylight it has issues with detail on car moving at 20 or 30 mph. Not much use in an accident to record a number plate! I don't need all bells and whistles, but not happy with something with less quality than my entry level smart phone!

Cheers guys, seems fine for the dash cam.

Does the USB socket below the heater controls have a permanent power supply? I bought and installed a cheap dash cam yesterday and until I'm happy with it's position etc I won't be hard wiring it. Once I set it up I connected it via USB using this port and I'm nearly sure it powered down maybe a minute after I removed the key from the ignition. So I left it plugged in while in work today and when I went out there now and got into the car it was lit up as if it was charging although I hadn't put the keys in?

Probably best for you to have a look at what's on offer in a decent camera shop. That should give you an idea of the size and whether its something you could live with. then after that I would say start looking at a few reviews/ comparisons on line. I had Canon DSLRs for a few years and went from the entry model 350D to a 60D in the recent past just for better focus for sports. I'm only an occasional shooter and found that the size of the 60D + 2 or 3 lens meant I went without it most of the time. Downsized last xmas to a Canon M5 mirrorless after testing on out in calumet. The sensor is better than in my 60D, it is compatible with my EF lens via an adapter and more importantly with the kit lens attached (15-45mm) it fits in a small bag and I can take it anywhere. Small, discreet, very good image quality. Also, if you can adapt to the camera, i.e. the screen, focus etc then it will perform fantastically for you. If you're looking to earn a living out of the camera then I wouldn't compromise but if you want versatility, the market is awash with some fantastic offerings.

Gregoir i checked tonight, and the brightness does dim along with the dashboard illumination. Set mine down around 50% for now. Will see how it goes.

Completely agree.

I watched a youtube clip before buying the wynns of someone testing it on an egr. They removed and showed the EGR before and after. The Wynns only removed the freshest looking crud (probably the most recent layer) but did little for the years of build up underneath. Possibly if it were used at every service from new it may make a difference over the life of the car. It was by no means a resolution to a blocked EGR. I used it as a preventative measure as i'll be holding onto the car for a while. If it works it works.