Nuriyan

No issues at all buddy. Been on the car a few months, they do throw a message until they are coded but, once done all is well....

Shiiiiiiite.... That was the interior lights... Here's the badgers : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/80W-H11-H8-CREE-XENON-WHITE-LED-FOG-LIGHT-BULBS-UK-PAIR-SPOT-DRL-AUDI-/301296391152?fits=Car+Make%3AAudi&hash=item4626aa13f0:g:ymUAAOSwq7JUAG06

Probably already linked but, I used : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301178001533?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT no issues with coding. Had them on for a number of months, small adjustment made to the metal to make fit better (dremel a small notch in the securing lug (as the three securing lugs you'll find one slightly too long, 2 minute job to sort). Fitting done in around 10 minutes...

Nope, no damage to the paintwork. Bolts are accessible from inside the boot lid itself, just open up the boot and youll see them. Answering your early question, yae the paintwork is identical to the black pack and the monte carlo badges...

Evening buddy, nope, I purchased it via http://www.superskoda.com/Skoda/OCTAVIA-III/Octavia-III-limousine-original-Skoda-Autoas-rear-trunk-spoiler-from-the-RS230-limited-edition 4 bolts to change plus a wee bit of sealant, fitted myself in around 10 minutes. Undo and remove bolts, then using dental floss, saw through the glue.

Similar to http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2006-Acura-Rsx-Subwoofer-Sub-Woofer-Speaker-Bose-OEM-Spare-Tire-Rear-4889-/221888078605?hash=item33a98f630d:g:rFAAAOSw37tV-cv9, Canton Sub I feel is gutless and more of a gimmick than anything as the in car speakers effectively make it mute. I have been thinking of an upgrade but cant decide which route to go, I like the look in the boot with the Canton, but an underfloor sub is preferred.... Oh, side note the spare wheel subs are often similar in size under all that plastic.... If I'm not mistaken its no more than a 6 inch speaker in the Canton Sub so, anything bigger is going to be heading in the right direction. Amperage will be the next thing to look at, no point in sticking in a larger sub if you haven't got the power to achieve anything with it. Are you looking at a second sub or, still use existing?

+1 for Pedal Box..... I fitted the Pedal Box first, found the sweet spot for my style of driving then progressed to the Tuning Box. I will say though, make sure the clips on the Pedal Box are connected right, mine was deceptively not connected at one point (even though it looked nad felt correct), as I went round certain corners the car had a paddy and went limp...

So I ordered exactly the same LED's, no problems with the install bar orientation http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301178001533?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT. The LEDs need to be the right way round to come on. Front and rear plastic surrounds came off easy enough with a Tesco Club Card wizzed round the inside..... So, the question is, did you fit them all the right way round? are they central within the Socket? my suspicion would be one of the LED's when placing the surround back round has shorted out causing the issues you now see. Pop the surround off, check the LED's then test. Place surround on after, test again...

I found 3 of the torx screws were fairly easily removed, the one on top was the arsehole. Just couldn't get a socket in very well so did it all on the **** with some brute force. Managed it in the end after around 10 minutes.

I haven't seen any others on the road yet, feeling like rocking horse ****.... After my Mk1 was yellow, this one had to be. Luckily I got the wife's blessing...

Excuse the dirt....

Will take some more pictures in the morning but, here for reference. The RS230 front and rear VRS emblems are black, not grey, in the V of VRS. Have also put on black spoiler and the black exhaust tips from the 230.

Nice and quick to get off, I used a heat gun just to warm the glue then used dental floss to cut through it. WD40 help to remove the glue after else its just pick it clean. Clean it well after and stick the new badges on. I have replaced all of mine with black motecarlo's and the 230 black emblums.

I highly recommend the DTUK box plus the Pedal Box. Ability to remove the complete setup and get the car back to standard in circa 30 minutes, plus both increasing driveability and power made it a worthy mod. While there are plenty of places that are now offering remaps for the car, I like the fact I can return it to standard and not have it cost me to put back on. Will have to get to a rolling road soon but, butt dyno says car is much quicker and SWMBO swears alot more at me now.....

Totally agree, as an Engineer and all round nerd I tend to build and make myself with everything I do, hack it, you name it. I did the first Octy tune but with the new one I opted for the DTUK box. Piece of **** to fit, was done in a little over 30 minutes (mostly jacking and taking undertray out). Pedal box took about 1 minute to install but fook was it a tight fit. Been slowly upping the settings since fittings (2 months ago) and have had both box and pedal on max for a while now. After winter will be on to internally tweaking the DTUK box but for now, such a different car. Response is so much better and the pedal box just sweetens the deal.

http://canvata-technologies.com/documents/vw_skoda_golf7_octavia_2.0_tsi_220_230_e.pdf This was my install guide, hope it helps...

Ok, follow the instructions for the DTUK video but ignore the camshaft position sensor which is the first one he explains. The next two are the same as yours, first is at the front of the engine just underneath the engine cover. The boost sensor is down the bottom of the engine between the block and the radiators. This one is easier to get to if you jack the front of the car up, remove the undertray. It'll jump out at you straight away as its almost centrally located in front of the engine block...

On a side note, I fitted the pedal box at the same time and must say Im really impressed with the DTUK system.

Did they name the two connectors within the documentation at all? I fitted a DTUK box to mine, it required 3 connections, as per https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1GCzRhBTJQ it names the connections and positions, see if they are the same for yours (albeit two connections for your kit) and follow the instruction. Regards J

This is what I used to update my Columbus, I am presuming it will be the same for yourself. Extract onto SD, load into HU.

Fitted myself, 4 torx bolts from inside the lip of the boot. Undo those, there was a small blob of silicon gel but that didnt take much to separate (plastic card to the rescue). Polished the area after removing the old one, fitted new no more than 10 minutes taken start to finish including unboxing and wrapping the old one up.

Painted straight from factory... http://www.superskoda.com/Skoda/OCTAVIA-III/Octavia-III-limousine-original-Skoda-Autoas-rear-trunk-spoiler-from-the-RS230-limited-edition

As you know I have a thing for the yellow and black combo, so, it was spoiler change this morning.... Colour isn't jet black either, it matches the colour of the badge and the black pack grill and wing mirrors. Still a f*cker to keep the yellow clean though but, bright as a mofo most days....

Aye, it doesn't take long if VCDS is driven by someone who has done it before (and you know what you need)..... A beer or two is always good recompense,