Flanno

Yep, Friendly, what you are saying makes complete sense to me, and I believe that's what the mechanic did the 1st time he bled it. And the 2nd time I was there, and I had to pump the clutch up and down or try to, while the air came out. Since then when the clutch starts to stick, he has instructed me to loosen the nut on the nozzle, then using a cow syringe with brake fluid, attached to a long tube with an attachment at the end, place tube over nozzle and slowly inject brake fluid . This is what he did the 2 additional times he called to the house after the pedal started to get sticky, but now he has given me that gear to do it myself. He said by injecting the fluid, this will force the air out. I don't really understand it, but I have done this a few times and the clutch pedal has started working again, if only for a few weeks. As of this morning it's still working but I can tell it's going to go again, as the first couple of inches when pressing down the pedal, it feels very loose. Any day now it will stick about halfway on the return. Pumping it a few times usually helps. Eventually it will go to the floor. Interestingly that usually happens when the engine is cold. Sometimes a pump or two and it comes back, but often it does not. Then the brake fluid trick does the job till next time. Also, since this problem has started happening the biting point on the clutch is much much lower than I ever remember. Practically nothing happens till it's only an inch or so from the floor. Could be unrelated. I will be seeing the dealer next week to discuss this in more detail and to talk about the slave cylinder. If it's a case of the box coming out, I simply won't be able to afford the labour. Meanwhile, while my mechanic is willing to replace the slave cylinder, and clutch+dualmaster flywheel, (which he recommends doing while the gearbox is out, in case the problem is not the slave cylinder) - he offers no guarantees. In fact he said it's unlikely to be a problem with the slave as I have no leakage whatsoever. Instead he recommends looking at the pedal itself. He mentioned something about a piivot bar or return spring. I'm confused to be honest.

That's pretty much what my mechanic said nick74, but he didn't explain it as well as you did. I am going out to the main dealer next week. My local mechanic says the gearbox has to come out to get at the slave cylider. The service manager in the main dealership does not think so, but needs to confirm with his mechanic whether it was the slave or master they changed on a vRS last week. Hope to get it resolved soon. Just not had the time. Public transport is sucking.

If I could afford a main dealer I'd go. I just got off the phone with them. The slave cylinder is inside the gearbox housing according to them and not easily accessed

I never said the clutch had anything to do with the NCT, did I ??? Someone else on this thread (Gregoir) jumped to conclusions and said my car was in need of a safety checkover, and that's what the NCT actually does. I simply pointed that out to him. At no point did I make a connection to the NCT and my clutch. So really, I don't know why you bothered making such a half assed comment, which is completely irrelevant to what I am asking about. But thanks for the effort. I thank the people who mentioned the clutch cylinder which I have had replaced (the one not in the gearbox, not sure if master or slave). I hope someone else can give me some useful advice now. It seems like I am bleeding the clutch every few hundred miles (which is about 3 weeks driving for me now). I am looking for what could be the cause of this problem, and what to check next, before having to go down the expensive route of removing the gearbox to look at the other cylinder. Anyone ?

Hi, Sorry for opening an old thread. I have had the slave cylinder replaced (cost 200 euro at an independent) which I was told had to be the issue, but the issue is still happening every few hundred miles, which for me currently is once a month or so. The mechanic has checked the car again and there are no leaks what so ever. The symptoms are the pedal gets loose the first couple inches when pushing it down, and then eventually sticks, first halfway, then it hits the floor. If I am driving when this happens, I pull in, pump the clutch pedal a few times and pressure usually comes back temporarily. The quick fix to get the pedal going again, is to open the slave bleeder valve a notch and inject some brake fluid (using a cow syringe and some tubing ). This effectively causes all the air to bleed out according to the mechanic. This is what he has has done every time he has called to the house and I have been doing this myself once a month now but I need a permanent fix. He reckons a proper fix may involve replacing the master cylinder which involves opening the gear box, and he reckons if he does that he may as well replace the complete clutch, flywheel etc.. But no guarantees. An expensive proposition I am not looking forward to. I am wondering as I have no leaks could there be another cause. Is there perhaps something physical behind the clutch pedal which could be worn and is preventing the pedal from returning, and the act of bleeding the clutch is helping alleviate the problem temporarily. Also the clutch biting point is extremely close to the floor. I never remember this being the case when the clutch was working perfectly. Any advice appreciated. Car has 50,000 miles up on it. Was mainly used for city driving for over 4 years, but between May and September of last year was used for driving to work and was putting up 750 miles a week motorway driving. That's when the clutch sticking started to happen.

According to the skoda main dealer in my area, skoda in ireland, and my manual, it's still 170k km, or 100,000 miles. I mentioned the 4 years or 40k miles to them which I read about here and it was news to them. My main dealer has not received any technical bulletin about it either. So as far as I'm concerned I am following the service schedule by getting it done at 100,000 miles. In reality I will probably get it done around 60,000 miles which will be in another 6 months. My car is 4.5 years old.

Well it was serviced only 5 months ago though I'd say they did the bare minimum. But even still, at 32,000 miles when it was done, it was just an inspection service. Its been driving perfecly up until today. There is now 46,000 miles on it, and its still only an inspection service that's due plus pads and obviously the brake fluid change. Tires will be done next month. Got 23,000 miles out of them and still at least 3mm left. By the way it passed the NCT (like an MOT) 2 months ago. That's supposed to be a safey inspection.

Thanks guys. Well local mechanic arrived and noticed brake fluid low and then noticed front brake pads nearly worn, and rear ones almost gone entirely. This could have caused alot of stress on the clutch cylinders. Anyway, he bleeded the brakes as best he could, and topped up the brake fluid. Clutch is a little more responsive but still sticks now and again so he said to leave it a few hours as there might still be air trapped. No dampness on slave cylinder but he needs to put it up on a height to get at master cylinder which if leaking will need replacement. Needs new brakepads and service too obviously. Will have to use bus next week. Daily commute of 150 miles :( It's interesting that the main dealer back the end of March, didn't spot any brake pad wear or tell me, and they defintely didn't change the brake fluid which is supposed to be done every 2 years on my car. It's 6 months after. For that matter I'm not even sure if they checked it. Obviously something I should have been doing, as I normally check my oil once a week. Blasted engine consumes about 0.5litre every 2000 miles. Incidentally, is it safe to use 5W40 full synth on vRS TFSI engine. I've used it instead of 5W30 which doesnt seem to last as long but I heard somewhere that turbos need much thinner oil.

I have a 07 vRs which up until May was doing light mileage (mostly city driving). Was serviced at 32000 miles end March. Now has 460000 on it as commuting 750 miles a week to and from work (mostly main road/motorway driving). So service is long due. This morning the clutch pedal is sticking to the floor. I can get it back up by pulling it with hand, but it sticks back down straight away when I touch it. There is no longer any spring motion. Could this be something called a Master Cylinder that's gone ? I am trying to get an independent mechanic to look at it today. Is it possible this can be fixed in driveway at home I wonder. Otherwise I will have to get nearest Skoda dealer to tow it, who is miles away. thanks

Thanks very much for the informative post. I've passed on the info to the dealer. The problem is waiting for Skoda to do something as they have provided all the reports they have asked for and it's taking longer then expected to get answers. Will be 2 weeks tomorrow. Not that impressed really but there is not much I can do about it.

It's a petrol engine. This has turned into an nightmare for me. The garage have had 3 more attempts and within 24 hours the light comes back on. So far the pipes have been cleaned out, new airfilter, new mass airflow sensor and a bunch of other stuff I don't remember. Skoda are going to look at it now, and it's been in the garage for over a week. So far the only solid information I have is that the diagnostic says the car is running lean when idling and to replace the maf. This has been done but the problem and warning message still persists. I could have had my car serviced 3 times for what this has cost me to date.

Thread revival. 1 year later and still problem not solved. Car was serviced in February this year. New airfilter fillted but not needed really. In August the warning light came back on and garage told me the airfilter was fitted incorrectly so they refitted it and reset the system. This week the light came back on again. Paida nice bit to the garage on Tuesday, and the replaced the airfilter again and cleaned the maf, and a few other things. Spent a good few hours on it. Fix lasted less then 24 hours. The latest is they are going to replace the mass airflow meter as the diagnostics are telling them the car is running lean. . I think I've had it back now 6 times for same problem and each time they do something but the fix never lasts. I'm desperate for help here. At least one good thing is the car has not gone into limp mode as the manual says it can.

Will try recirc button later. Thanks. What's weird about this whole thing is it was perfect up until last Wedneday. Air has always come out the front vents by default. Suddenly nothing. Will update on what happens this week. Car goes into garage tommorrow and they are giving me a free loaner as usual. Now I have to russle up some cash.

Just had my car in main dealer this morning as no no air coming out of the front centre flaps in cabin when ECON or AUTO is on or off. Can only get air out of front centere flaps if turn either temp gauge down to low (its dual zone climatronic), or select front air button on centre console. Garage found 3 events below and advise dash will have to come out for a closer look as either 1 or more motors will need replacing or best case a problem with a ground wire 00716 000 Recirculation Flap Motor -V113- no display 01272 -000 Central Air Flap Motor no display 01810 000 Actuator for temperature flap right no display Can anyone advise on the reason how all 3 of these could suddenly pop up a day after a service (which involved getting an airfilter and new oil sensor installed). Dealer claims diagnostics showed nothing. Is it conceivable both motors have suddenly died or is it more likely it's just a ground wire or something less costly. Trying to gauge what kind of bill I will be in for. The car is an 07, has only 24.5k miles on it, and full dealer service history. Dealer will be talking to Skoda about the cost of getting this sorted.