Flanno

Yep, Friendly, what you are saying makes complete sense to me, and I believe that's what the mechanic did the 1st time he bled it. And the 2nd time I was there, and I had to pump the clutch up and down or try to, while the air came out. Since then when the clutch starts to stick, he has instructed me to loosen the nut on the nozzle, then using a cow syringe with brake fluid, attached to a long tube with an attachment at the end, place tube over nozzle and slowly inject brake fluid . This is what he did the 2 additional times he called to the house after the pedal started to get sticky, but now he has given me that gear to do it myself. He said by injecting the fluid, this will force the air out. I don't really understand it, but I have done this a few times and the clutch pedal has started working again, if only for a few weeks. As of this morning it's still working but I can tell it's going to go again, as the first couple of inches when pressing down the pedal, it feels very loose. Any day now it will stick about halfway on the return. Pumping it a few times usually helps. Eventually it will go to the floor. Interestingly that usually happens when the engine is cold. Sometimes a pump or two and it comes back, but often it does not. Then the brake fluid trick does the job till next time. Also, since this problem has started happening the biting point on the clutch is much much lower than I ever remember. Practically nothing happens till it's only an inch or so from the floor. Could be unrelated. I will be seeing the dealer next week to discuss this in more detail and to talk about the slave cylinder. If it's a case of the box coming out, I simply won't be able to afford the labour. Meanwhile, while my mechanic is willing to replace the slave cylinder, and clutch+dualmaster flywheel, (which he recommends doing while the gearbox is out, in case the problem is not the slave cylinder) - he offers no guarantees. In fact he said it's unlikely to be a problem with the slave as I have no leakage whatsoever. Instead he recommends looking at the pedal itself. He mentioned something about a piivot bar or return spring. I'm confused to be honest.

That's pretty much what my mechanic said nick74, but he didn't explain it as well as you did. I am going out to the main dealer next week. My local mechanic says the gearbox has to come out to get at the slave cylider. The service manager in the main dealership does not think so, but needs to confirm with his mechanic whether it was the slave or master they changed on a vRS last week. Hope to get it resolved soon. Just not had the time. Public transport is sucking.

If I could afford a main dealer I'd go. I just got off the phone with them. The slave cylinder is inside the gearbox housing according to them and not easily accessed

I never said the clutch had anything to do with the NCT, did I ??? Someone else on this thread (Gregoir) jumped to conclusions and said my car was in need of a safety checkover, and that's what the NCT actually does. I simply pointed that out to him. At no point did I make a connection to the NCT and my clutch. So really, I don't know why you bothered making such a half assed comment, which is completely irrelevant to what I am asking about. But thanks for the effort. I thank the people who mentioned the clutch cylinder which I have had replaced (the one not in the gearbox, not sure if master or slave). I hope someone else can give me some useful advice now. It seems like I am bleeding the clutch every few hundred miles (which is about 3 weeks driving for me now). I am looking for what could be the cause of this problem, and what to check next, before having to go down the expensive route of removing the gearbox to look at the other cylinder. Anyone ?

Hi, Sorry for opening an old thread. I have had the slave cylinder replaced (cost 200 euro at an independent) which I was told had to be the issue, but the issue is still happening every few hundred miles, which for me currently is once a month or so. The mechanic has checked the car again and there are no leaks what so ever. The symptoms are the pedal gets loose the first couple inches when pushing it down, and then eventually sticks, first halfway, then it hits the floor. If I am driving when this happens, I pull in, pump the clutch pedal a few times and pressure usually comes back temporarily. The quick fix to get the pedal going again, is to open the slave bleeder valve a notch and inject some brake fluid (using a cow syringe and some tubing ). This effectively causes all the air to bleed out according to the mechanic. This is what he has has done every time he has called to the house and I have been doing this myself once a month now but I need a permanent fix. He reckons a proper fix may involve replacing the master cylinder which involves opening the gear box, and he reckons if he does that he may as well replace the complete clutch, flywheel etc.. But no guarantees. An expensive proposition I am not looking forward to. I am wondering as I have no leaks could there be another cause. Is there perhaps something physical behind the clutch pedal which could be worn and is preventing the pedal from returning, and the act of bleeding the clutch is helping alleviate the problem temporarily. Also the clutch biting point is extremely close to the floor. I never remember this being the case when the clutch was working perfectly. Any advice appreciated. Car has 50,000 miles up on it. Was mainly used for city driving for over 4 years, but between May and September of last year was used for driving to work and was putting up 750 miles a week motorway driving. That's when the clutch sticking started to happen.

According to the skoda main dealer in my area, skoda in ireland, and my manual, it's still 170k km, or 100,000 miles. I mentioned the 4 years or 40k miles to them which I read about here and it was news to them. My main dealer has not received any technical bulletin about it either. So as far as I'm concerned I am following the service schedule by getting it done at 100,000 miles. In reality I will probably get it done around 60,000 miles which will be in another 6 months. My car is 4.5 years old.

Well it was serviced only 5 months ago though I'd say they did the bare minimum. But even still, at 32,000 miles when it was done, it was just an inspection service. Its been driving perfecly up until today. There is now 46,000 miles on it, and its still only an inspection service that's due plus pads and obviously the brake fluid change. Tires will be done next month. Got 23,000 miles out of them and still at least 3mm left. By the way it passed the NCT (like an MOT) 2 months ago. That's supposed to be a safey inspection.

Thanks guys. Well local mechanic arrived and noticed brake fluid low and then noticed front brake pads nearly worn, and rear ones almost gone entirely. This could have caused alot of stress on the clutch cylinders. Anyway, he bleeded the brakes as best he could, and topped up the brake fluid. Clutch is a little more responsive but still sticks now and again so he said to leave it a few hours as there might still be air trapped. No dampness on slave cylinder but he needs to put it up on a height to get at master cylinder which if leaking will need replacement. Needs new brakepads and service too obviously. Will have to use bus next week. Daily commute of 150 miles :( It's interesting that the main dealer back the end of March, didn't spot any brake pad wear or tell me, and they defintely didn't change the brake fluid which is supposed to be done every 2 years on my car. It's 6 months after. For that matter I'm not even sure if they checked it. Obviously something I should have been doing, as I normally check my oil once a week. Blasted engine consumes about 0.5litre every 2000 miles. Incidentally, is it safe to use 5W40 full synth on vRS TFSI engine. I've used it instead of 5W30 which doesnt seem to last as long but I heard somewhere that turbos need much thinner oil.

I have a 07 vRs which up until May was doing light mileage (mostly city driving). Was serviced at 32000 miles end March. Now has 460000 on it as commuting 750 miles a week to and from work (mostly main road/motorway driving). So service is long due. This morning the clutch pedal is sticking to the floor. I can get it back up by pulling it with hand, but it sticks back down straight away when I touch it. There is no longer any spring motion. Could this be something called a Master Cylinder that's gone ? I am trying to get an independent mechanic to look at it today. Is it possible this can be fixed in driveway at home I wonder. Otherwise I will have to get nearest Skoda dealer to tow it, who is miles away. thanks

Thanks very much for the informative post. I've passed on the info to the dealer. The problem is waiting for Skoda to do something as they have provided all the reports they have asked for and it's taking longer then expected to get answers. Will be 2 weeks tomorrow. Not that impressed really but there is not much I can do about it.

It's a petrol engine. This has turned into an nightmare for me. The garage have had 3 more attempts and within 24 hours the light comes back on. So far the pipes have been cleaned out, new airfilter, new mass airflow sensor and a bunch of other stuff I don't remember. Skoda are going to look at it now, and it's been in the garage for over a week. So far the only solid information I have is that the diagnostic says the car is running lean when idling and to replace the maf. This has been done but the problem and warning message still persists. I could have had my car serviced 3 times for what this has cost me to date.

Thread revival. 1 year later and still problem not solved. Car was serviced in February this year. New airfilter fillted but not needed really. In August the warning light came back on and garage told me the airfilter was fitted incorrectly so they refitted it and reset the system. This week the light came back on again. Paida nice bit to the garage on Tuesday, and the replaced the airfilter again and cleaned the maf, and a few other things. Spent a good few hours on it. Fix lasted less then 24 hours. The latest is they are going to replace the mass airflow meter as the diagnostics are telling them the car is running lean. . I think I've had it back now 6 times for same problem and each time they do something but the fix never lasts. I'm desperate for help here. At least one good thing is the car has not gone into limp mode as the manual says it can.

Will try recirc button later. Thanks. What's weird about this whole thing is it was perfect up until last Wedneday. Air has always come out the front vents by default. Suddenly nothing. Will update on what happens this week. Car goes into garage tommorrow and they are giving me a free loaner as usual. Now I have to russle up some cash.

Just had my car in main dealer this morning as no no air coming out of the front centre flaps in cabin when ECON or AUTO is on or off. Can only get air out of front centere flaps if turn either temp gauge down to low (its dual zone climatronic), or select front air button on centre console. Garage found 3 events below and advise dash will have to come out for a closer look as either 1 or more motors will need replacing or best case a problem with a ground wire 00716 000 Recirculation Flap Motor -V113- no display 01272 -000 Central Air Flap Motor no display 01810 000 Actuator for temperature flap right no display Can anyone advise on the reason how all 3 of these could suddenly pop up a day after a service (which involved getting an airfilter and new oil sensor installed). Dealer claims diagnostics showed nothing. Is it conceivable both motors have suddenly died or is it more likely it's just a ground wire or something less costly. Trying to gauge what kind of bill I will be in for. The car is an 07, has only 24.5k miles on it, and full dealer service history. Dealer will be talking to Skoda about the cost of getting this sorted.

Thanks for the useful information mate. Yes it's dual zone climatronic. Up until now, air ALWAYS came out of the front centre flaps and side flaps whether using ECON on or off, AUTO on or off, or front air position button pressed. All the fan position buttons still work as expected and air still comes out the front centre flaps if you select the font air position button (but the air is not chilled). However when ECON or AUTO is on or off air only comes out the sideflaps, and you can hear the air rumbling away behind the front centre flaps. I previously mistook this for air coming out by the windscreen. The garage believe that a flap inside the front centre unit is just staying closed. Interestingly if you select the LOW setting from either of the temperature dials or select the front air position button, then the air DOES come out the front centre flaps. I explained to garage everything was fine before service. Had it done last Monday. Nothing showing up on diagnostic report. Then went in again on Wedneday to have new oil level sensor fitted and decided to get new air filter fitted too. Garage say nothing showed up on diagnostics then either and they had it a good 2 hours trying to clear out the error mesaage for the faulty oil level sensor. I saw no written report this time but I was there waiting for the car and they were definitley working on it, so I have to take their word on this. Anyway just back from garage and diagnostic this morning shows the following 3 events and doing a basic setting would not clear these events : 00716 000 Recirculation Flap Motor -V113- no display 01272 -000 Central Air Flap Motor no display 01810 000 Actuator for temperature flap right no display In relation to above, head mechanic, advises dash will have to come out to take a closer look. Until then they won't know if it's a motor or motors which needs replacing or something simple like a ground wire. As the car is only 3 years and 2 months old and has only 24.5k miles on it, they are going to ask Skoda to see if they can foot some of the bill. Car is going in tommorrow for as long as it takes. I'm very dissapointed by this whole experience. I now have to worry the dashboard gets damaged/scratched and goes back on with rattles. Car has been pristine up until now. Hopefully someone out there has experienced this issue and has some advice for me. Thanks

Got my 07 vRS serviced last week and noticed after no air coming from front centre vents, even with blower on max. The air comes out the side vents as usual, but instead of coming out the front vents, it now comes out near the wind shield. Can't explain it. It used always come out the front centre vents and you had to select the windscreen button to get it to come out near the windscreen. I can of course force air out the front centre vents by turning on the front air direction button. But this won't help me when we get warm weather as selecting this button automatically disables the compressor, so no climate control from centre vents is another issue. I am hoping the garage reset something during my service and it's an easy fix. I sure hope they didn't screw something up fitting a new oil level sensor (it neve worked from day 1). Interestingly my low windscreenwasher light never worked either and they had to reset something on the ecu to get it working properly.

Sorry for digging up old post. But this warning light has come on again. Thing is, it's intermittent. It came on this morning when I started the ignition, but 8 miles later when I got to my destination I turned the engine back on and it dissapeared. It also happened 3 weeks ago, and was gone next time I drove car, up until this morning. Plus I don't get any additional text on the screen - the manual says it's supposed to say "workshop" on the display and the car goes into limp mode. This doesn't happen at all. The garage said it happened last time over build up of deposits (see point 3 in my previous post), and I do almost city driving exclusively. My question is should I get this looked at now or you reckon it could wait until service ? Car only has 33 thousand km on it, and not due till 38 thousand or 1 year from last service which is Dec/Jan time (I only do 10 thousand km a year)

Thanks all for advice. Lots of positive feedback then on the Hancock V12's it seems. Where I live in Ireland, choice is pretty limited, and it looks like I'll order online from these guys as my dealer says he'll fit them for me. eiretyres.com - Details: Hankook Ventus V12 Evo 225/40 ZR18 92Y XL 4PR GAFF - were the F1's you had asymmetrics or GSD3's as they are different thread patterns. The asymmetrics get a good rightup from users here, much better than the GSD3's : http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Goodyear/Eagle-F1-Asymmetric.htm They also won the Autocar 2007 tyre test : http://www.autocar.co.uk/VideosWallpapers/Videos.aspx?AR=228551&CT=V

So my vRS is almost 2.5 years old. The garage told me in January that all 4 tyres are down to 3mm so wearing evenly, and I should make it until December before needing replacement tyres. Only done 17k miles. Nearly all town driving. The problem now is the front right has a small bump in the tyre wall caused by a pothole no less, and the rear right has a seal issue. I've had it rebeaded 3 times in last couple of months but about every 4-5 weeks it looses about 0.4bar of pressure. For some reason the tyre sensor doesn't come on till it's almost 0.6bar plus down. Incidentally do these tyres sensors go faulty ? I wonder if mine is even working properly. The tyres would have been rotated at the 1 year and 2 year service. Is it possible the sensors got damaged ? Anyway, I think I'll just get 4 new tyres soon and was wondering what's recommended. My priority would be 1. durability 2. road holding 3. noise What's recommended these days. Last time I looked (over a year ago), people were talking about good year eagle F1 asymmetrics. thanks

Thanks for the advice. Yep, 2 year warranty though they always give goodwill on low mileage cars (from past experience). Thought it might be an update was needed but they did that at the 2 year service in January. Anyway, back from dealer. They ran a diagnostic which took 35 minutes. They found 4 faults. Looking at the report now. 1. 00406 P0196 004 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor. Unplauasable signal. This came up before prior to a service in January after doing a 180 around a roundabout - low oil was the reason given by the mechanic. It came up a few weeks ago as well and I was down 0.5litres of oil. Mechanic said oil usage can cause this. That's only after 2000 miles, 4 months after the 2 year service. Normal oil usage apparently. It also turned up today in the diagnositc. Oil levels are fine. Mechanic said this is a spurious signal sometimes triggered by more major faults. Like below. 2. Sensor Reference Voltage 'A' Circuit Low. Voltage was down to 11.049V. Was asked if I jump started someone or was jumpstarted recently. Wasn't. So they couldn't explain this. Volatage is now back up at 12.13v. 3. 12599 P3137 001 Intake manifold Runner Control (IMRC) Basic Setting Not Performed. Was told this was the cause of the exhaust gas warning light. Flap was closed possibly due to excess carbon deposits. They went through an interactive routine to set the basic setting/reopen the flap so they reckon that's cured it and if there was excess dirt then they wouldn't have been able to activate the manifold flap manually in intervals. 4. 12600 P3138 008 Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) Deviation Was told this was the same as above. End result was it cost me 40 euro to have this check done and have everything reset. If it happens again the car will need to be booked in. Was informed there are about 18 different sensor wires to check plus the flap.

Reversed car out of drive way this evening, and accidentally revved in neutral (about 3krpm) before engaging reverse. Immediately after, an orange warning light in bottom left corner of display comes up. Checked manual and it's an exhaust gas/emmissions warning caused by a malfunction in an exhaust component. Manual also said engine sets up a programme to allow you to drive gently to garage, and a warning to that effect should come up on screen. It didn't so just hoping it's a false reading. That will be my 2nd one. Last week warning came up about high engine oil temp when doing a 180 around a roundabout. Turned out I was a little low on oil. Going to garage tomorrow about this exhaust warning. Should I be worried. What's the worst it could be and what kind of repairs would I be looking at. It's only out of warranty 4 months and has only 17k miles on it so I'd hope for some goodwill. 99% urban driving. Only a few times have I red lines when overtaking. 07 Skoda vRS. Thanks

So about 2 weeks ago I noticed when I went over speed ramps, uneven road services there would be a metallic creaking coming from underneath RS. Didn't sound like it was coming from front shocks, but further back. Almost like 2 parts rubbing together and making a kind of whine. Then abruptly it stopped. Car is fine now, though do have a lot of knocking on drivers door...bad roads I guess. Any idea what this metallic noise could be ? Car is due a service anyway end of January...it will be 2 years old and will only have about 15k miles on clock.

The annoying noise in the back is the rear seat release clips, one on each side on the top of the seat. The yokes you pull up to allow you to push the back of the seats forward. My garage fixed em the other day. Not sure what they did. Gaff used some cardboard to sort his.

Dealer told me the other day that in July when the new emmission laws / vrt rules comes in the vRS is dropping 160 euro a year to tax (currently costs 5 something), and the price is dropping by over 3.6k euro!! same spec levels. That's why the dealers are charging 6k now to change from an 07 to 08 which you would be mad to do. The Irish vRs comes standard with 17"'s, rear electric windows, jumbo box with mp3 input, mp3/stream radio, climatronic, tyre pressure sensor, rain sensing wipers, dimming mirror, maxi dot display.