TeebsVRS

@TheClient I've not reliably measured, I feel like it had to have most of a 4litre bottle between annual services (10-12k miles) which I believe is well within VWs bonkers tolerance levels of 1l per 1200miles on this engine. The original coolant leak at the 'stat had leaked onto a multiplug but had been checked and cleaned out, also the coolant temp sensor on the head also had damage to wiring due to coolant ingress. Hoping it's a continuation of wiring issues rather than physical engine damage.

Thanks @TheClient, I did some deep googling as I couldn't sleep for a few hours stressing about the car. Found a video explaining the relation to the sensor 3 and the cooling jet system, and in that car with the same fault it turned out to be the camshaft. Then found another depressing video where an audi engine with similar fault code had chewed up various internal oil mesh filters and caused lots of internal blockages and damage. I have noticed over the last couple of years it has used a fairly high amount of oil between services. Really hope it's just electrical fault as I've spent over £2k on the car in the last month 😭 If the other fault is just for cabin heating I might leave that for now. I do get heat through, but seems to fade when stationary or at low revs. I'll see what the local garage think, but may just bite the bullet and send it in to the best VAG specialist in the region.

Been having a few issues with my car lately including coolant leak, timing correlation codes, very poor cold start, coolant temp gauge malfunctions and erratic cabin heating performance. Thought my local garage had got to the bottom of everything with a new water pump, timing chain kit, 2 X magnet solenoids and a new coolant temp sensor after which it seemed to be running well again, apart from erratic cabin heater performance. After driving it for 10 miles or so yesterday car for the first time since all the work, it went into max 4k rev mode driving very low on power, EPC light on and start/stop error on the vehicle info screen. Had VW assist out once home and a diagnostic scan showed a sporadic fault with P168D oil pressure switch 3 malfunction and also P16C1 heater support pump open circuit. Has anyone had these codes before? Car is 64 plate 2.0TSI VRS with 109k miles.

This is the problem, I don't really know!? I always just leave the heating on auto and 21degrees and it's never felt cold in the cabin but not toasty warm either. I have noticed on a longer run I do get a reasonable amount of warm air through all the vents after about 4-5miles but it seems to fade away when the car is not moving, and warm blasts seem to match with when engine is revving or under a bit of load. But it all still seems quite intermittent.

Been reading up on the dreaded heating issues on the MK3 Octavia. Recently had the full water pump/timing chain replacement done as well as coolant sensor issues causing very poor cold start. Car is starting well now, but I have noticed that the heating is extremely weak in the driver's side. It is a bit warmer on the far left passenger vent but none of it is particularly hot. I'm not sure it's related to the recent water pump issues as thinking about it, I have not really ever noticed particularly warm air from the vents but luckily have winter pack so heated screen does the demisting and I'll pop the heated seat on to get warm. I've done the climatronic reset which improved heating slightly. But still lukewarm on driver side. I do have the "MIT silikat" header tank still fitted. Is there any further DIY diagnosis that can be done to pinpoint the issue between airlock, clogged matrix, coolant valve slow to open, electric heater pump etc?

In case this helps anyone searching for issues, the coolant temp sensor tucked away on the head seems to have been the cause of this. Coolant had leaked here and damaged wiring - a new sensor has fixed the cold start issues completely.

Sidelights are just the tiny standard 501 type bulbs, 2 minute job to change. They have their own housing on each light unit. Check the Octavia MK3 all bulb replacements video guide on IAMASPANNER channel on youtube, it's one of the first ones he shows.

Had an issue with my 64plate 2.0TSI VRS today, had driven about 25 miles then parked up for over an hour. When leaving the car park I noticed my cooling fans were blowing, checked the coolant gauge and it was wobbling erratically up and down between 90 and 130 degrees. Pulled over, no sign of overheating but called Skoda Assist/AA anyway. With ignition on but engine not running it was still wobbling about above 90 at random. AA fella confirmed the engine was cool, unplugged the two coolant sensors he could see but the gauge was still erratic so said it's most likely a wiring or other sensor fault. On the way home with him following me the gauge maxed out at 130 and the overheating warning came up and fans on full, but drive normally. After a 45min drive home in quite heavy slow traffic the engine and rad were pretty cool. 2 weeks ago I had my waterpump/stat and timing chain replaced after a leak was diagnosed to the thermostat, with a note that a multiplug appeared to have had coolant leaking on it and may be damaged. The garage confirmed they had checked it over and cleaned it out and it seemed ok. Doubt it is related, but I had also accidentally ran the car without the oil filler cap for a short 4-5 mile journey and ever since it has had a terrible cold start, with the revs dropping and stalling and a very rough lumpy running for about 10-20 secs after which it seems to find the correct smooth idle, especially if you give some revs to help it. The garage recently replaced two magnet solenoids which they said seemed stiff and were recommended to be changed by a VW master tech , but it's still exactly the same. Anyone had anything similar to any of these issues, and had a successful fix?

This is a 64 plate on 109k miles

Did you ever get to the bottom of this? My 2014 VRS tsi is doing exactly the same. It started after I drove a few miles without the oil cap fitted by accident after topping up. It was recently diagnosed a coolant leak from the thermostat, with potential damage to a wiring plug and timing correlation fault codes. Had a whole new timing chain kit and waterpump fitted recently. Still doing the lumpy idle/stalling at cold start. Garage is looking to change the two VVT solenoids as a next step.

Had full timing chain kit and waterpump changed, with coolant and oil change £1800 all in.

Nowhere near London mate. Car has gone into limp mode this afternoon.

I've been advised my thermostat housing is leaking slightly, causing damage and risk of further damage to a multiplug and wiring. Been quoted £1100 for waterpump/thermostat plus replacing damaged electrics. Noticed a slight coolant loss but not excessive. They've also noted a timing chain correlation fault code. This is at a large independent VAG specialist. Does this seem excessive, or about right for this work?

Hi folks, looking for ideas as to what can be causing a rough/hunting idle upon cold start. A few weeks ago I foolishly drove the car 5-6miles without the oil cap after I'd topped up. I noticed as the car was hunting idle massively whilst driving and could smell the oil burning off as it had sprayed out the cap hole. Since then I have noticed a rough unsettled hunting idle on cold start. This morning it was so bad it died completely and the start/stop kicked in to correct it. It seems to last for 20-30seconds or until I give it a few revs. Could I have damaged anything driving with the cap off for 15-20mins? Any sensors etc? It's a 2014 car with about 103k on the clock. Thoughts appreciated.

Last August I had my discs and pads all changed due to corrosion. I had a decent indie garage do the work and used Pagid discs all round from ECP and Pagid rear pads and ATE Ceramic front pads. I have to admit I didn't do specific bedding in. For the last month or so the car has developed shuddering brakes especially obvious at higher speeds 50mph+ but still very slightly noticeable at slower stops with a gentle pulsing feel. I can't see obvious problems visually. I have since found multiple online posts complaining of Pagid discs from ECP causing this problem, and when I had my service I asked Skoda to take a look and drive and they reckoned warped discs (but still marked it as green on the safety check...) I emailed ECP customer services over a week ago but still had no reply. The discs we're pretty cheap, so I wonder if they were actually genuine Pagid stock? Or are Pagid just poor quality? I suppose I'll have to fork out on new discs again? And chase ECP for a refund. If they do turn out to be faulty, could I push for the fitting costs to be reimbursed? Will I need new pads again too? And which discs are known to be good quality with no issues? Thanks all

To resurrect this thread I am experiencing high speed judder on my brakes, frustratingly they were brand new discs and pads all round only fitted late last year? They were decent branded stuff as well, Pagid discs and ceramic front pads. Would I have grounds to complain to the supplier if it's warped discs, they genuinely have had no hard use to cause it? Also if it is just deposits due to not bedding in, how can this be resolved back to normal?

Just as an update for others, I completed this job today and it really wasn't too bad but I highly recommend finding the official service manuals online as a guide. I found I had to jack the rear up on both sides to get decent access to the bumper screw in the wheel arch, but the fiddliest bit was actually reconnecting the parking sensors to the loom inside the boot and also unclipping the plastic bumper trim, as I had to swop mine as it's cut for a towbar. Hoping to get a few quid for the chrome exhaust tips, rear plastic diffuser and parking sensors and loom on ebay to subsidise the slightly high price I paid, but the bumper I replaced it with was in great condition and also has a load lip protector as a bonus. But well chuffed I sorted this myself!

Thanks I have found a bodywork manual online now. Doesn't look too bad a job.

After a couple of knocks to my rear bumpers on 64 reg VRS estate I just bought a replacement on eBay after looking for ages for the correct colour to come up. However, how easy are they to remove / refit DIY or is it best to avoid frustration to just get a bodyshop to do it. Also my current bumper has a towbar mount but towbar not fitted. I haven't looked yet but assume my current diffuser is cut to fit it round it, can the diffuser part be separated and swapped round to the new bumper?

The sensors have indeed stopped working now after the lorry tap, so he caused that yes. But not the cracked bumper.

The Slovakian driver was not stupid. He could tell the damage was old so not worth risking it!

I do a London commute and get 350-400 miles per tank so 30-35mpg urban. Then 40-45mpg on a longer motorway or dual carriageway run.

Thanks for the replies. The lorry actually caused no additional visible damage so I don't think I have any reason to claim on insurance. If I was a less honest person I could have chanced it with the original damage but won't in case lorry had dashcam etc. If there's no obvious things on the sensors to check to get them working again I will get whole lot fixed out of my own pocket sometime when I have a spare £600!

I had a rear end knock a while ago, my own fault hitting a wall in the dark. This had knocked a sensor loose, but I managed to reach up inside and tape the sensor back into place and it worked fine. Last week a foreign lorry have me a love tap up the rear in heavy traffic, no additional damage bar a bit of an extra scuff however now all I get when I select reverse is a long high tone then nothing, no sensor beeps or visual image on the screen. Is there anything I can try and do or inspect to try and get it working again until I get the whole bumper repaired when I have the cash, as it is useful with an estate.

Hi it seems to be 1Z0868565F47H. Do you want it?