Octavia_VRS

The mech (not my usual one as he was recommended to me By work colleagues as its up the road from where i work) who did the arbs said this happens because of the poly bush rather than the rubber OE use. It probably dont sound as bad on the video but it is and i have to go over a few roads to and from work with speed humps. Plus it happens when pulling away and stopping gradually. https://vimeo.com/173543987 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, very good of you to nearly offer lol [emoji1303] hopefully my trusty mech shall have it all done for me on friday. Then i can go out for the day on saturday and see how it is. Once thing ive noticed since the 24mm fromt whiteline arb. Over humps and quite rough ground and when pulling/breaking there this annoying noise. The guy who did it near i work said this was because of the droplinks that i had with the second hand arb were rubbing on the driveshaft. Since changing them back to OE it has solved most of it. When going in via the wheel arch i noticed the postion was in stiff whereas i asked the front to be on medium and the rear stiff. Im wondering if having the front on stiff is causing this extra spongy crashier noise over speed humps which werent there on the OE front arb. I saw some people fit an anti lift kit supplied by whiteline but im not sure this would solve my issue as after reading what it does to the camber which i know on hunter 4 wheel laser alignment cant be adjusted on stock vrs sports suspension. I took a video ill see if the noise can be heard so you can see what i mean. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had those but no 5mm allen socket lol only 6mm. Ive seen read its better to use 1/4" wrench to get in and out with. I have sent back the Upgraded Pierburg Piston Diverter Valve 06H 145 710D and brought the GFB DV as i didnt realise the OE part was a solenoid and after making a decision i thought lets try GFB instead. Although some people on here from older posts imply it makes no difference changing the DV but if the diaphram is split it surely can only improve things. I am having the paintwork done tomo and thursday and a full service on friday. I let kwikfit do an oil change in march. I have had my oil light come on once, had two put in 1l of oil twice. So i am getting my normal mech to change, oil, oil filter, magnetic sump plug, fuel filter, spark plugs, coil packs, DV, then i have brought BOA Engine supplement PN 110 and to get rid of the **** oil kwikfit have clearly used is BG EPR pn109e. Hopefully after all this and last week having a new battery, PCV Delete and f&r arbs and new droplinks it will be like a new car. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Anyone? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah i noticed. [emoji22] what bolt size are they as i dont have a caliper. I may order one off ebay Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I think my big issue is my drive way has a downwardslope and i tried accessing the vehicle by pull it sideways across so it was more level. Jacking up the drivers side. But going in via the wheel arch i could undo one bolt but not the other two. This morning i thought if i had jacked up the other side and left it on an axle stand and jacked up the ds again i could of then moved the steering wheel to move the disc or moved it manually which may of been enough. The reason i abit concerned cus of the slope. Ill show u a pic so u can c what i mean. Perhaps someone can give me some tips. I have ordered off amazon some allen sockets coming tonight between 6-10pm Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was examining my exhaust at the weekend while the tracking was being done. No obvious holes, its original from new. It is a 2008 mk octviva vrs. How long should they last? I have done nearly 70,000 miles. I was looking at buying the miltek from turbo back. It says it needs a stage 2 remap. Mine only has a stage 1. The standard pipe is 2.75" the downpipe and sports cat is 3" what would happen if i didnt get a stage 2 remap is the .25" really too big for gases on a stage 1 map? Also if you buy the de-cat option can it still pass an MOT, i assumed it could not as it has to present like the DPF saga am i correct? Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well i failed lol. Didnt have anything small enough for the bolts. Got one out with a torx bit on my impact driver when i went through the wheel arch. I couldnt get the top or the far left one out. So not sure whether to just give up and go to a garage lol. What size are the heads? T5? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Blimey... I dont think id have the patient to take out all the parts you have and refit lol. Is that becoming a track car by looking at the last 3 pages? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

When you get a chance take a pic? Does it pass its MOT if they have fogs and you take them out then? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The oversize ramair kit for £155 does come with two heatshields [emoji1303] one for the cone and one at the back. I just thought about buying one of these but dont like the noise they make. To max power in my eyes(as in it sounds more noise that airflow?). I got hold of a second carbonspeed CAI. For a decent price. Ill see how it does. After abit more reading of old posts and other forums dont the cones suffer heat soak? Which is why the CAI are so damm expensive? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah i think i have those in my socket set.... Ill give it a go tomo. Also need to do my coil packs and spark plugs... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh ok i might try that first as i only have a trolley jack and axle stands. I sold my ramps about 3 years ago... Wish i hadnt now. With the wheel off is it visible the dv and the 3 t5 bolts u have to remove? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh right, so rather than get underneath and remove the tray i can get to it by removing the drivers wheel, then the felt liner stuff in the arch and that in turn exposes the dv? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk