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tandlehill

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Wakefield

Car Info

  • Model
    Skoda Octavia VRS DSG Hatch
  • Year
    2015

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  1. That would make sense, having just got back in it seems to be third gear when it is most obvious, as I said it was peaking at about 3000 & then settling (well, I have to lift off at that point as the Octy will make a big dent in the wall!). IF I go steady with the loud pedal there is absolutely no problem at all, having had the caliper changed & bled i think I'll give the guy a tinkle to let him sort it out. Thanks for the advice rwbaldwin
  2. Brake fluid should have been changed when they did the caliper on the rear surely?? If not then it probably would have been at the last service, around twelve months ago IIRC. Why would this affect the engine performance though? (apologies if dumb question!)
  3. And so the fun continues!! Having got the car back from it's MOT & repairs I now have a new trick to contend with. When the car was being prepped I had a split hose replaced (EML was on); on return the EML light was off & all seemed fine, however, I have noe noticed when having a bit of a hoon that there seems to be something amiss with the way the engine is performing. Under heavy acceleration in second & mostly third gear it appears to over rev between 2000 & 3000 revs, I can't notice any discernable drop off in acceleration but obviously it makes a racket as the engine races then settles down again.My first thought was slipping clutch but it doesn't seem to affect the drive in any other way. I have also noticed that it runs a little rough on first start up, even after letting it settle before driving. I wondered if this might be down to a dirty throttle body that requires cleaning? Any advice gratefully received.
  4. Ok, got MOT receipt back today & the refusal slip states this "Brakes Advisories: RBT Front Brake Imbalance: 15%" Then underneath an explanation which says"Front brakes only just et the front brake imbalance requirements. it would appear the braking system requires adjustment or repair." The other advisories were for a deteriorated front suspension bush that didn't result in excessive movment & tyre close to the legal limit. However on the retest it only has the advisories about the bush & the tyre & NOT the brake imbalance. Could the work done on the rear caliper have sorted this & would they have tested the RBT on the front again. The car drives absolutely fine, brakes in a straight line & there is no sign of pull to either side??
  5. That's what I thought too cntuning, but the caliper is being replaced due to hand brake issues. After being stripped & cleaned it improved things for a few months & then it was as if the hand brake lever was attached to nothing at all, had to pull it up about 8 or 9 notches & obviously only the osr was engaging properly. Just wondered if you could have brake imbalance front or rear or corner to corner?? Apologies for dumb question, just trying to learn a thing or too!!
  6. Hi all Just received the dreaded phone call from the garage that the faithful Octy had failed it's MOT. So, now waiting on a new NSR caliper & discs being fitted. However, one of the advisories on the MOT was for "brake imbalance", clearly only slight or it would have failed on this too but what I wondered was could brake imbalance be mistaken for a wheel imbalance problem?? It may sound a silly question but I haven't noticed any judder, shaking or wheel pulling to left or right; I have noticed that when I get up to around 70 -75 mph (allegedly!!) I get a bit of vibration through the steering wheel. There is absolutely no problem at lower speeds & brakes seem to work absolutely fine. Any comments??
  7. Morning all I've just recently had both front bearings changed and also the off side front hub (as this had apparently welded to the worn bearing?). After suffering withthe dreaded drone of a worn bearing for a week I was rather hoping that the car would drive nice and sweet following the repairs. Unfortunately not. I now have a strange and intermittent "clicking" noise (the only way to describe it is similar to the noise from your bike when you stuck an ice lolly stick at the back wheel to make the noise of a motorbike!) which is getting progressively worse!! It starts as three definite "clicks" but as speed increases turns into one "click", almost as if something is fouling underneath somewhere. I've had the wheel off, had a good look around and can't see anything obvious either at the hub or drive shaft. :S Initially this was just annoying but now is driving me nuts, I'm takling it back this week but wondered if anybody may have any ideas about what is causing it? The guy in the workshop couldn't hear anything the first time I took it back, he definitely will this time though as it sounds loud when in the car! Cheers!
  8. Hi everybody Just a quick query to see if anybody else has had a similar issue. I have had my oil light come on a couple of times during the past couple of years, didn't think too much of it as nothing was eevr mentioned at service and I just thought it was normal oil usage. At the most recent service the mechanic told me to keep an eye on the oil as there was a leak somewhere but he couldn't trace it, just found oil over the engine that shouldn't be there . I've had a good look around and there seems to be a deposit of oil at the front of the engine, somewhere around the area where the dipstick is located, I also noticed that on a coupls of occasions when I have been parking up at work and select reverse then apply the throttle there is sometimes a little puff of blue smoke, very briefly and I can't be sure if it is oil or just the exhaust when I rev (I've only seen it in the rear view mirror and haven't got anybody to watch or smell it yet!) but it isn't very cold so I don't think it is normal exhaust fumes. Any ideas what this might be... and more importantly is it something I should be worried about?? Obviously something needs attention or it wouldn't be leaking in the first place!! Thanks Tony
  9. OK boys and girls, I've got a couple of issues with my baby and I'd like a little advice / ideas for sorting them out please. 1. Rear heated window contacts - switched this on the other morning to clear the screen and it didn't appear to do anything, mirrors cleared quickly, dash light was illuminated and no problem with fuse....so whilst in the back of the car thought I'd remove the trim and have a look see. Horror!! contacts were hanging in thin air and completely detached from the glass, now can I glue them back on (with a specialist glue) or are there any other ways of reattaching them so that the window works again?? 2. Poor signal on radio - really strange this one (although somebody with prior knowledge probably won't think so!!), radio works fine on FM, interchanger plays fine, only problem is if I want to switch to any station on AM it will play for a few seconds and then get wiped out with "static" . It doesn't always do this, interestingly after taking the trim off to look at the above problem and fiddling with the wiring loom that goes through the top of the tailgate it seemed to settle for a while but now it's back to the same old "static", driving me nuts !! Any ideas (apart from the obvious "buy a DAB unit)?? Thanks!!
  10. Rainsports put on mine just before Xmas, Conti Sport still on rear as there is still plenty of life in them. Have to say that they are very good tyres overall and haven't really noticed much difference between them and the Conti Sport (although I haven't REALLY tested them yet!! ) As above they are great in the wet (as the name would suggest!!), good in the dry and very good in the recent snow (although my other tyres came off looking like slicks so maybe my view has been "coloured" somewhat!! ) Overall a good tyre which performs just as well as the more "premium" rubber on offer for much less of your hard earned cash (more to use on other things!! )
  11. .......think I need my exhaust healing!!!

  12. I know that I'm probably going over old ground here but my 2004 Octy Mk 1 has developed what can only be described as a judder when accelerating hard in 2nd & 3rd gears; once the turbo spools up and it gets up to about 3000rpm the juddering kicks in. It doesn't appear to affect the acceleration (not that I have noticed anyway), but when it starts I obviously lift off; on the couple of occasions when i keep my foot in it seems to clear itself. I changed all four coil packs about eight months ago and had to change the coil pack on cyl 1 last week; I had also bought a spare coil pack and fitted this to cyl 3 (not sure if that was the right thing to do now??!! ) juddering didn't go away, so had a play around with cyl 4 and still no difference. Now is it going to be running down the usual check list of sesnors, TB, MAF etc? I don't really want to purchase another two coil packs for no good reason if it turns out to be something else?? One thing to note is that I have been running it on super unleaded for ages but when I lent it to my OH last week she filled it up with 95RON instead , could this have had anything to do with it?? Could this have put stress on the ignition system and cause the coil pack to fail and another to become faulty?? Any help or advice appraeciated........Thanks!!
  13. The one thing I did notice after filling with the "good stuff" is that she runs a little smoother (I'm due to do a TB clean as she's been running a little rough at tickover, especially after some spirited driving!!), and pick up under acceleration seems to be quicker and a little more responsive (could be a placebo effect though? :wonder: ) The MPG has also picked up a little too, probably somewhere in the region of 2 - 3 MPG overall, but as others have said you might not notice this if you don't fill the tank.
  14. Driving back from a weekend away and going a steady 70 mph when the engine gave a "thud" (as if something had broken or the car had been rear ended), managed to guide it across to the hard shoulder and turned the engine off. Locked the car and waited for about a minute then unlocked it, started up and the fault had gone :wonder: , the car then ran smoothly for the remaining 10 miles or so and I hevan't had it happen again (yet) since this incident, any ideas and should I be worried?? :think: I've recently changed a full set of coil packs and am due to do the TB once I've got the new discs, pads and rear caliper fitted this weekend so I wondered if this might have had something to do with it?? I sometimes get the engine management light coming on spuriously too, although this will often clear itself without any intervention from me or a Vag Com. Any advice or ideas gratefully received, Thanks!!
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