Balfy
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Posts posted by Balfy
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Had our Yeti a few years now. Sadly we never took the option to install a tow bar at the time.
Having done some research on here I've looked at DIY options, but I'm not confident in my ability to do this work myself.
Has anyone had a tow bar installed in Scotland since they bought the car? If so who would you recommend and roughly what cost should I be budgeting for?
Thanks in advance.
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I haven't made any decisions yet...
I decided I wanted to fully understand the system, and how it's functioning on my particular car on my typical journeys, before deciding what to do.
Much of the publicised fear of DPFs is based around earlier systems and is probably unfounded now, on the VAG CR engines at least. So it was interesting to read the self-study guides on the CR engine and on the newer DPFs to see exactly what has changed.
From what I've read and logged, I'm not worried about the DPF clogging.
What has surprised me though, is just how often it's having to do an active regen. I'd assumed that my longer journeys would be sufficient for most of the soot to be got rid of passively, but to find it's actually doing active regens every 200-300 miles, was definitely a surprise.
This will be causing an increase in fuel consumption - but I don't think I can quantify how much by.
I'm having frequent regens in the same mileage as yourself.
I'm now used to it happening now and as long as it clears without too much hassle I can live with that.
Will keep following this thread to see what decision you make as I'm not ruling out anything longterm.
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It's a risk yes - but I've yet to hear of a vehicle failing under the new tests where a DPF has been removed...
To be fair it's only been in operation since February 2014.
https://www.gov.uk/government/news/new-rules-for-mot-to-test-for-diesel-particulate-filter
Knowing my luck I'd probably end up being the first to fail if I bypassed the DPF.
Up here even the police get stopped.
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Muddyboots, does this mean you are no longer planning to stage 2 your car and remove the DPF if you are spending this amount of time looking into the cycles?
My 170CR Yeti is now a bit over two years old, with 33,000 miles on it.
In that time I've only actually noticed a regen cycle about three times.
With the new legislation are people still looking at ways to "adapt" or "bypass" the DPF?
Again just a personal choice - I had looked at it previously, but given the new tests it is a risk that the car may fail the MOT and for that reason I've decided to take the option to keep the DPF - hopefully it keeps doing regens and clearing out successfully.
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The joys of going back to petrol.
But this said we have used super market fuel in ALL our cars, 13 covering approximately 800,000 miles with no power loss problems.
Only 1 of our cars, a diesel Vitara, ever went into limp mode and it was due to an air pipe popping off the turbo.
Perhaps we have just been unlucky and the problem may not have been down to fuel issues - it's a component that could have other issues causing the concern.
Our last two diesel cars have both had issues with DPF. Both are used on regular mixed journeys - very few short journeys I hasten to add. Regular services, etc.
Speaking with a local experienced garage mechanic about the issues, the first question he asked was where we bought fuel from and he suggested we look to buy elsewhere using a brand.
I'm not saying the problem has gone away, but we have not had a subsequent "limp home" issue since moving away from supermarket fuel. It's a personal decision and one I'm comfortable with.
Given we've done away with supermarket onsite shopping and saved more by not driving to the shops (and ending up buying more than we need) it's a win-win for us personally.
Perhaps I need to do some more work with VCDS to get more insight into the DPF issues.
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I think I may have found the answer to the area in VCDS I was looking for:
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There is a pad warning light for the front only -- works only when the pads are really worn, and it is worth mentioning that the pad warning light CAN be disabled with VCDS so it doesn't work at all.
Personally I would change pads long before any warning light comes on.
Mike
Mike - can you advise where in VCDS I can permanently disable the pad warning light?
I need to do this on a Yeti. The pads are fine. Just the damn line to the sensor is broken.
The sensor is on the nearside front only.
Some of these so called "intelligent" system controls are a PITA.
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Great info Muddyboats.
We also have a CR170 2.0 which had some DPF concerns after a few good years of motoring and it once went into a limp-home mode.
One of the main reasons we ended up buying the VCDS was to help clear codes and perform diagnostics without a dealership or local garage charging for the cost of performing the analysis.
I must admit I've not attempted to monitor a forced re-gen with VCDS connected but next time the EMU light comes on I will give it a go using http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Diesel_Particle_Filter_Emergency_Regeneration#1.6l.2F2.0l_R4_CR-TDI
Since the first limp-home issue we have completely stopped using supermarket fuel.
On occasions when the EMU light stays on longer than usual and I know it is the DPF I add some fuel additive to help matters and usually within the next driving cycle it clears.
I get the fuel additive from Costco at a good price and anything that can save me the cost of a DPF replacement is worthwhile doing.
Tow bar fitting - any recommendations in Scotland
in Skoda Yeti
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Thanks for all your responses. I will do some searching based on your recommendations. Not sure if we got the two bar prep. Will try and dig out paperwork, unless it is something I can easily check on the car.