mrgf

Have you checked there are no nails, etc in the tyres? I would also consider disconnecting the battery for ten mins or so. If still no luck, perhaps one of the sensors inside the tyre is broken. Did you have a fully flat tyre?

Hi, as I have seen pop-up's here on the Briskoda site advertising these Nano Magic cloths, I wondered if anyone has tried them and what were the results? They claim to remove scratches etc from car bodywork, restoring it to that "New car" Look, in around three minutes. I myself feel sceptical about them but they claim to have "Nano" Technology in that they contain an amount of metal dust, along with some oil, which combined with each other and used in the special fibre-based cloth, result in restoring damaged paintwork. I looked at an item about it and the "Story teller" seemed most impressed with the cloths and was happy to use them on both his and his wife car, his being a quite new BMW, which some little sh!t had keyed all over! The sceptic in me looked at the site in more detail and the small print stated that it was an "Advert" And all photos were models and the circumstances were basically, pre-written scripts. (No surprise there). That said, someone, somewhere must have tried them and on a different search, i saw some people state they used and were happy with the results, overs stated the cloths improved but did not fully rid the car of the damage. I think they seem useful to remove very light surface scratches, nail marks around the door handles, etc, but will not restore real damage. (The spiel suggests the oil and metal sort of liquidity the paint and it flows in its own cracks or something like that). Given that minor damage can be removed with other products and perhaps a little elbow grease, is there any substance to their claims and are they worth the money? They seem quite small and wear out after a while, as the metal and oil will get used up so will need replacing after a few goes but if simple, if purchased whilst on special offer (Which is most likely every day except christmas day) And does the job, wheres the issue? One negative thing I read was that there are many so called fake ones out there, which may have less stuff in them, if any at all. Beware of cheap imitations, so to speak but I would also like to be ware of expensive "Fakes", Too! Opinions please, on the likelihood of them doing anything other then F*C*U*K-ing up your paintwork beyond repair, especially from anyone who HAS used them, whether with happy results or would not use another one to wipe their backside, in a Covid crisis and no loo roll!

Try looking in your local area for VAG specialists. It may also be worth posting where you are from as others may know of someone local to you and recommend them.

The listing Autodats has is repeated in the haynes manual, if that helps... No mention of CayaD although it only goes up to 2014. (64 reg).

Unfortunately, you have the DSG box so finding out if turbo faults affect gear changes is paramount, here. As Moley suggested, a VAG or turbo specialist is needed here. Try the VAG one first, asking if turbo issues affect gears. It might actually point to gears, rathe then turbo. The issue with smoke, as I mentioned, is I believe, oil passes the seals and burns. Oil can almost be on fire going through a turbo so good quality, fresh oil is a good idea. A knackered turbo is expensive but not as bad as it used to be and most people now treat it as a service part as they are common place on many cars, unlike the exotica of years ago.

I find that a little hard to swallow... If for no other reason then day one, you will be too busy enjoying the car, to do such an unlikely PITA job. First self-done oil change I get but day one? I think you jest! The under tray has been fitted there for a reason but that aside, throwing it away too, is as boners as you can get when, if brand new, it could be sold but also, stuck back on the vehicle when the selling time comes. The "Palaver" As you put it, was most likely my now fault for being zealous in trying to push the tubing too far, in order to reach as much oil as possible. Otherwise, the tube should remain intact and I would hasten to say, last many many oil changes but nothing lasts forever and as JR mentioned, the oil drain plug is meant to be changed at every oil change. If manufacturers WANTED customers to drain the oil themselves, they would have designed the under tray around this or put a smaller hatch in it. No, they know many will find it too much and return time and again to have simple job done for them. Thats people and their money for you! You may also be physically able to "Monkey around" underneath a car but as I suffer from osteoarthritis, the easier I can make the job, the better for me, whilst still wishing to do what I can. Bear in mind, I did say my car is lowered and therefor even trickier to get to the underside. I don't have the luxury of my own garage so work on the road outside so using a perfectly acceptable means of extraction, suits me to the ground! Thanks though, for your input.

Although they may well be coect and at the age of the car, a turbo failing is not unlikely, in my experience of turbo failures, you often get a huge plume of smoke, like your own personal cloud, after driving a little "Spirited for a while, then coming to a stop, say after a decent run on a duel carriageway, then stopping at set of lights. This will then become more pronounced over time. The "Cloud" will smell bad and be quite obvious, causing both embarrassment and amusement, in equal measure!

I am just gonna spend the cash and order another Pela Tube set. I will just try harder to look after it, taking care not to have too hot an engine and not push it in too far. I did get a few uses out of the tube but still, that adds an extra £9 per oil change just for tubes, I guess. I just looked at the old one, thinking of chopping off the damage as it was mostly at the end but I then spotted a snag some way up. Probably too far up really but after trimming, would most likely put the damage right in the worse place to get stuck! I thought about the nylon type tubing and slipping that on where the flexible metal lined bit connects to the plastic hose but then thought if it snapped, it would leave a chunk still inside the sump! I know I got all the old tube out, but may have had a few fragments slip in. Fingers crossed they get picked up by the oil filter and don't go flying all around the engine but that was ages ago, now.

Yeah, that sounds logical. I think I will also unwind the new tube, when I get one and then keep it straight for a few days. I think having too warm an engine also helps make them bend into a tricky shape!

Your model has different lights to mine but if they are H7 bulbs, any H7 should go. Brighter again, the better, My car has a single bulb, with the motorised flaps that block out part of the bulb's output, effectively forcing them to be lower then they are on full beam. It kind of cuts off the top half of the light emitted. I do find LED sidelights are brighter then the normal sidelight bulbs but they are a little fiddly to swap. Not bloody difficult but with practice, ok-ish. Then again, there may be nice, bright Philips or something, sides...

...That it was. An old 1981, if memory serves. 4 door saloon, rather then 2 door or the hatchbacks, that were more popular. The handbrake cables went from left to right, right to left... Also, came up a very long way, by design. Had a bit of a disagreement with an MOT tester about that. He insisted two or three clicks was normal, mine was over raising. I had to teach him a lesson!

...Just raising this post again as its time to change my oil and I about to purchase a new tube-set from Pela... Does anyone actually KNOW how far to push the tube in, to reach the bottom end? Its gonna have to be enough to reach but not to curl, as previously mentioned but a genuine, known distance would be greta to know. My guess is Pela won't know as they will be used on anything from cars, to boats, to motorcycles so each will need to be correct for that application. Additionally, Skoda and/or VW won't know or will not probably disclose this as it is not in their interest. They will gain nothing from people doing their own oil changes! That said, if they sold extractors, then they would most likely know. Tp also reply to rum4mo, who said "with all this messing around with tubes etc etc.................far easier to drain from the sump plug ........gets more out to...............just my opinion", That may be true to a certain degree and on certain cars but i saw a testimonial on Youtube, regarding a Mercedes specialist, who highly recommends using the extract method and he even showed removed sumps, where draining left around a cup or so of fluid still in the pan, despite the drain plug being taken out. He then showed how low the tube could go, to extract more then the drain method. Apparently, transmission sumps were even worse, leaving quite a lot of old fluid behind. I guess thats a part of the reason why filters and oil should be changed nice and regularly. The new oil will still contain a smallish amount of older oil within its volume.

Funny, reading this reminded me of an old (Even then) Saab 900 Turbo I used to have. I need the front brakes changing and went to a few well-known brake "Specialists" To get them changed. "No can do-you need a special tool for those" Was the consensus. I then bit the bullet and decided to do it myself as Saab dealershipw were quite pricey and I was on a tight budget. I got the parts no problem and searched as best I could for a tool, (No internet at the time). I then decided going to the main dealer was the only option so I did that. The main dealer price, for the official, genuine tool they themselves use to do brakes? £15! Yep, similar to a rewind tool used on most brakes! It WAS a specific tool, similar to an angle grinder nut removal tool, with two pins and e dog-leg shaped lever, as the pistons were kind of spiralled or threaded, like a gun barrel. So, such a cheap tool to buy RETAIL, and no major brake company had any... Surely they must have lost many sales as at that time, Saab City, along with many Saab dealerships, were doing good business. Most Saab owners were the sort of people who didn't do the work themselves so payed top dollar to get brakes changed, along with most servicing.

You might find the coolant needs replacing, too. You have close to doubled the mileage since the belt was changed and seem unsure if the pump was done. It is common to be done together as its mostly the same labour, with the addition of a fairly inexpensive pump (Unless done at a main dealer). So your coolant could be due a change and may well have NOT been changed if only the belt was done. I think I ma correct in saying long life coolant has around a five year life span. I would then suggest any properties in the chemical composition will start to degrade and the cooling effect/frost protection, will start to suffer. You did say there is no overheating per-se and no leakage but if it heats up a lot, the fan may just be working harder then it need to. Now I have said all that, I can also say, my car too, has warmed up a little quicker in the last few months so perhaps this is more to do with warmer overall temperatures during the summer months. Less cold nights mean a warmer stating point, so the oil, coolant, etc warm up quicker. Not sure about the heater settings- may be just an additional issue to the overall warming issue. I am aware of cold/cooler heater settings if you have an air lock in the coolant system but I doubt you have this unless you have drained the coolant and re-filled it recently. On filling the system, the heater needs to be fully on and the fan on full, to help the circulation of coolant. I mention my car warming up quicker... I had a leak a little while ago so was topping up with plain water for a week or so, until I fitted a new flange and filled with fresh coolant. However, the quicker warming seemed to take place prior to that and did happen afterward, too a little. I think it will return to normal now the weather is cooling down in general so perhaps use that as an indication. My car has no real gauge-just a cold (Blue) thermometer symbol, no symbol for normal and a red one, for hot or if the system is low on fluid, along with a few "Beeps".

I think you thought they said Orsett! 😃

Some sellers just add any old sh-tuff to the description, in order to get more viewings as viewings mean sales! These are just "Normal" bulbs, not HID's but they suggest they give the HID look, I.E. White or blue-ish-white light output, rather then typical, l yellowish light. I am unsure as to their output but would almost certainly be deemed "Not for road use" as will LED bulbs, HID's on a car without the legal specs to fit them, etc. This illegality is perhaps warranted, perhaps not as LED bulbs are now becoming the norm but were not, when the rules were made and retro-fitting may still be an issue, depending on the bulbs, the vehicle and basically, opinion! Cheap-ish LED's will look nice and white but won't be that much brighter. They work ok and are not too dazzly to on-comers, if adjusted properly but don't tend to last very long, perhaps a year, maybe two, like a good quality set might. (£13 rather then £60-up). The price they are sold for, tells me they are going to be no better then what you may have had, whereby Phillips, Halfords high performing bulbs (Cant remember their name, Osram night breakers, Bosch, etc all supply higher spec bulbs, with a higher spec price. Expect to pay at least £20 a pair, often more, to buy them and be sure to REALLY have the premium type bulbs as they are much better. The downside, apart from cost, is longevity. The higher brightness usually means a shorter life. (Think Bladerunner, "And you have burned so very, very brightly, Roy). Oh, Halfords often have a buy one-get one free, deal so their own brand high performance bulbs can then be quite good value. CP4L, EPC, etc often have good deals and discount codes so look around, buy better and don't be fobbed off with cheap "Pretend" Bulbs. A little blue tint fools many people. That wattage will almost certainly cause long-term issues, though! The heat may also melt the plastic lens or at least, make it yellow quickly. Genuine 100W bulbs will be for rally cars, off roading, etc.

I nearly broke my jaw, when it opened so wide after reading that! True, if it needed replacing then replacing is the only way to go but they are known to stick a little and I for one, would have tried that PRIOR to spending such a large amount on such a small thing. I suppose its mostly labour and coding of the immobiliser, etc that racks up a bill so quickly!

The lock issue has happened and my dealer knew not what to do but I found a little spray version of graphite that cured that straight off, soon as sprayed in. Occasionally it gets just a little stiffer and as I cannot find graphite spray, I found powder, you squeeze in a kind of puffer bottle. That too, works great an many locks as well as the ignition switch. Better then paying for a replacement. I have had a similar thing with turning the engine over, where lights all light, engine will not do anything but then after holding a few seconds, it then springs into life. This makes me think its a power/contact/flow issue, which happens in colder weather and with a flatter battery so keep the battery well charged and just to be sure, Fabia's HATE a weak battery so if it is anywhere near half flat, charge it and/or change it!

misterb, I placed a reply to the other thread you re-posted to. There can be an issue if you wipe or clean the dash pod and the electric/static charge puts everything out... If it IS this, disconnect the car;s battery for a short while and then start again. Best wishes.

Such an old thread, I doubt anyone remembers... BUT, there can sometimes be an issue if you clean/dust the dash pod with a cloth and then the electrics seem to go! It CAN be an electrical static/short issue and to reinstate the functions, disconnect the cars battery of ra short while and then start again. I hope that helps.

Thats where having tyres changed/punctures fixed, etc comes in to it... Garages notoriously over tighten. I have to ask them to go a little easier on them!

What kind of warranty is the seller offering? Is it a FULL warranty, I.e, What does it cover or more importantly, whet is NOT included? Go in with at least £300 less then asking price. Suggest if they want more, you mIGHT just pop back later in the week. If they really can't come down, chance your arm and ask for an extended warranty. floor mats/mudflaps/full tank of fuel. I really hate sellers selling a vehicle with enough fuel to get you to the local petrol station! Some dealers offer a free lifetime MOT. Not great if miles from home but if local and as long as you own the car, it may be worth it but be aware, an MOT is only £50-odd quid. If they "Find" lots of jobs to do, it may not be cost effective. (Use a garage with a no-pass-no fee deal. They won't fail you for a simple fix. Always take it away and fix, then return...(Less chance of getting stung)!

Took the initiative and did the task, today. Took a while as I was working in the street but removed the old flange, examined it and fitted the new one. The oldie's O-ring was sort of stretched, soft and leaky, along with the temperature sensor's O-ring so I am glad I waited for both parts. I had a new plastic clip, too but managed to mis-place that, whilst doing the job. (Probably turn up one day, in a really silly place). Luckily, the old one was still good and actually felt stiffer then the new one. Not sure if that was good or bad but it seemed sound. The actual hose-clips were a proverbial pain in the ain.. If I need to do this or another hose related job again, I would either buy a dedicated tool, to remove/refit them or swap the clips for stainless jubilee clips. Trying to open and remove/refit them took a disproportional amount of time, compared to the task in hand. After making sure all was water-tight, I then re-drained the whole system and filled up with fresh G12 coolant. Filled slow, squeezed hoses, filled more, etc until I was sure I had a decent amount in. Then ran the car a bit, squeezing again and turned off. Let all settle, checked level, topped up, repeated until seemingly full. Went for small drive, got the little "Beep-beep and thermometer light, checked level again and topped up. Drove again and checked again. seems fine since then. Hopefully there is no more air in the system. All this was done with the heater on full, so as to run the whole system. Later, checked level, went for a ten minute drive to get fuel, then popped to shop. got home again and level still bang on the upper level of the coolant tank. I can see it flowing and can hear the pressure releasing on unscrewing the cap, which was not so prominent when it was leaking. I can also hear a small kind of pressure release shortly after switching off the engine, as if the system releases gas/pressure itself, I am unsure what it is but it sounds healthy! (A little like hearing the fuel pump return unused fuel to the tank or something settling down). I have just one student tomorrow so thats handy to see how things go, during the lesson so I will keep the excess G12 I have left, in the boot for a while. Although I took photo's of the replacement flange on my phone, I am unsure how to load them on to this thread but the unit looked a decent quality unit (Febi Bilstein part). I might try putting the eBay listing photo up. So, the job seems good and fingers crossed, tomorrow after the lesson, on getting home, the level will be exactly the same as now.👍 FEBI 46298 COOLANT FLANGE

I ask as I am a driving instructor and drive more miles then you might think. In addition to that, I live in a ground floor flat in East London (Close to the City) But cannot park close enough to plug in at home... I even asked the council to remove a bollard and install a parking bay on the blocks frontal concourse, to facilitate their. They said they would consider it and let me know. Now, despite there being only 4 ground floor flats who could benefit from this (Clearing 4 spaces on the street by default) And considering I am the only ground floor flat owner (Leasehold) Who drives anyway, The authorities response was that, "No, they cannot authorise that as it will set a precedent and others may then want the same thing"! For Fluck's sake, is that not what they should be wanting? Progress, cleaner charging/emissions, clearer roads or freed-up spaces, and the rent of the bay, on top of that! Nope, they said they "MAY" be able to install extra plug-in points along the street in the future but that will not mean that I am able to get to the point whenever I need to. Plus, as mentioned, many local charging points only allow an hour to charge, with fines issued automatically. P.S. All this was under the notion that I would remove a diesel from the road, in order to run the electric car. You mention the battery is healthy after six years but if charged properly, driven decently etc then I would expect an absolute minimum of ten years before experiencing an issue with them but I would almost certainly think that they will degrade at least a small amount over that time. From new, to now, do you still get the same mileage per charge or are you charging more frequently, despite still being happy with it?