mrgf

If it helps, they are reflector lights and not projector lights. (Projectors have a kind of globe-looking thing inside the light). Projectors use H7's, which have one filament per bulb. H4's have two filaments, a dipped and a main beam. I think this is what you have.

Hi Cheapas, I only just spotted the end part of the. Not got either done yet. The clutch is still ok if driving nicely but flat-foot the right pedal and it will spin the engine a bit, until it starts to pull the car along. As for the A/C, I have yet to do that as I am living in hope it is the only fault. I passed the MOT a week or so ago so no complaints on that side of things! 14TDiAlex, My Greenie too, is quite frugal on the oil side of things. Push hard and oil will be lost but only a little and I don't do that much so its not an issue. I get the oil wherever I find the bargain and usually use Bosch oil and air filters, from places such as ECP or CP4L. Probably spending around £30 all in.

Might be worth replacing the engine cover's rubber bobbins.

That is the later climatronic control as well. I don't think it is even compatible with the older type.

As far as I know, they all have a power steering reservoir under the battery.

That looks like the same sort of thing but on a different engine unit. If that is your type of engine, then I would say yes. Look at the other thread for an idea of what my issue was.

Re-posting this as someone else has a leak and looking at this post may help them. The job has been sound, coolant level steady ever since completion and a few days to be sure there was no air in the system.

I am unsure as to if your engine is the same or similar but I had a leak recently that turned out to be the coolant flange pipe, which joins the pipes to the engine, where the temperature switch is. Its a black plastic flange, with three rubber hoses attached to it and a rubber O-ring gasket that connects it to the engine. If you have the same, the O-rings fail, as does the O-ring to the temp sender along with potential cracking/degredation to the plastic. The actual part was quite cheap and not too hard to fit, once you remove the battery and air filter box to gain access. You could do it without removal of those parts but it makes it so much easier. The hardest part of the job was to remove/refit the hose clips so I would purchase a hose clip removal tool if I was to attempt the job again as pliers/mole grips helped but were tricky. A very close look of that area may be needed as the leak was hard to see and as its new the engine, it dries out fast and sort of drips more when the car is just warmed and turned off or if run with the expansion bottle cap removed as this allows the fluid to escape quicker. (It will most likely do the same for any leak). So look closely at the engine area between the engine and the airbox, where the coolant pipes go past the engine or enter it.

....So definitely not a cigarette holder, then?

Thats a little shy of £1400, in pounds sterling! Surely if they have quoted you parts, the quote must contain the parts needed? Usually, the main dealer parts will have their part number alongside the price.Therefor, ask for a printout copy, not just a verbal quote. You could try another dealer... Ask them over the phone, how much each part is for your vehicle and then once they know that, they'll know the part number, too. Its just a case then of getting them fitted.

Also, many people overlook the obvious... Has the power steering fluid reservoir been checked for the correct fluid and correct level? It is underneath the battery so you may need to remove this, to check.

You may need to read the owners manual for the stereo your car has, in order to tune the frequencies correctly. Bear in mind your audio will most likely be analogue and not digital.

My 2009 1.4 Greenline has the blue light, which goes off once warm, red if overheated or red with three beeps, if low on coolant. This is normal on many modern, non-performance vehicles, where too many lights/dials give the driver sensory overload. This model would not be considered low spec but was the supposedly eco-version of the MK2 variant.

The usual suspect in this situation will be the wires inside the door bellow. Thats the rubber-y gaiter that goes over the wires between the door and the cars chassis. It is meant to protect the wiring but they still snap. Frequently! A good close look right inside at each and every wire is needed, both front doors. Then if thats not the issue, come back here.

The car you are looking at has had advisories over the last two MOT's for corroded coil springs to the rear, along with a worn offside CV boot and an issue with the front wipers. Get those seen to prior to purchase... Also, look out for cam belt, water pump, worn turbo, cat, DPF, and any engine lights that stay on. It is rather high mileage but then, so is mine!

...Probable reason for older car having higher insurance cost is risk... Buy an older car for less money, care for it less, crash it more! (Thats as well as known "Fraudster's" who will buy a cheapo, with the intention of having someone rear-end them for a nice pay-out). Bizarrely, you will get a cheaper insurance quote nowadays, when asking for fully comp as opposed to TPFT, which back in the day, used to be around half the aforementioned F/C price!

Hence my comment about applying a little...The infinitesimal risk of a correctly tightened well coming loose is outweighed by the PITA of a wheel/bolt becoming firmly stuck! Anyway, I digress.

How much!!! Gawd blimey! Didn't think they cost that much from the dealership!

it would only affect it if there was an underlying fault as its meant to be there, in a car without a centre armrest.

...Or connect them up to a switchable battery/12V supply and lodge them in the ceiling of the garage!

...For those who are interested, you can also find a pair of stainless steel for mirror covers that give a different look, if you like that sort of thing! They may hide a few scratches or even prevent them as they fit right over the normal plastic covers with double sided automotive tape.

I would;t say that was high!

Yeah, but does it work? Your opinion is just that... Someone must have tried them as well. I would think its similar to using T-Cut or something similar to remove little marks but it may be simpler and cleaner to get the same job, albeit more expensive for the genuine article. Its a shame the mods moved this as now, its barely glanced at.

Does sound like a knackered battery to me, too. (They hate worn batteries). The oil cap missing though, could not have done the car any good. I am surprised the car did not smell foul and send up smoke/misty oil through the filler cap hole. The levels may also have plunged, pressure may have been affected, etc.

They are usually fairly economical to buy from carparts4less (£66, with code, for electric heated) or eurocarparts (£82, same), brand new! The drawback is getting the cover painted but the shells can be quite cheap from eBay, new and painted, depending on finding a seller. (£30--ish quid as most garages want at least that just to paint the cover).