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About ryan-re

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    Octavia II VRS
  1. Stereo upgrade

    When you say plug 'n' play do you mean you want an oem unit rather than aftermarket?
  2. Car stereo compatibility

    No aftermarket headunits come complete with the facia kits and wiring adaptors. You need to buy it all seperately The wiring harness is from connects2. Price wise I believe is around £25 but could be more. You'd need to contact connects2 for the exact model. Facia kits can actually be got from skoda. This includes mounting kit and new facia trim to go around the headunit and heater controls. You will also need a fakra aerial adaptor as the oem headunit is fakra and aftermarket units are not
  3. Car stereo compatibility

    Firstly. Ignore the spec on there. For one it will not put out anyware close to 220 rms. Compatible. Yes but you will need to buy all the correct mounting kits and wiring. Its not plug 'n' play
  4. That sounds very odd. Id be tempted to message connects2. It sounds like there could be an issue with the adaptor
  5. switched live should be yellow and perm should be red. They should have bullet connectors on them so swapping should be easy
  6. Try swapping the swithced and perm lives over on the headunits loom. It will take more battery power having the ignition on but if you are going to have your stereo on for long periods of time i'd recomend upgrading the battery
  7. Did you switch the ignition on when the glove box was out? If you did. thats your issue. Regards the on/off issue. Did you buy the correct iso connector for the headunit? The right one is the one connects2 make which creates a switched live for the headunit to use. You should not be able to turn it on with the ignition out and tbh why would you want to?
  8. In the MK2 there is a huge gromit behind the battery. I have 4 runs of 0awg going through it. Try there
  9. mk 2 octavia vrs stereo

    Do you want an aftermarket headunit or are you looking for an OEM or OEM equivalent unit? If aftermarket, single or double din? What's you budget? If you want aftermarket you will need to buy a few things. 1. Iso loom adaptor. Around £40 as it needs to be one which creates a switched live from the canbus system 2. Facia adaptors 3. Aerial adaptor. The aerial is a fakra connector and will need an adaptor
  10. No headunit has a 50w x 4 amp. Its actually around 10w If you cannot get good enough sound using your headunit to power the speakers the next step is to get a small amp for the speakers. Other things you can try (i forget what you have already tried) 1. Mounting of the midbass speakers. They need to be solid and a wooden baffle would be best. 2. Wave diffuser fitted behind the speaker inside the door 3. Swap round the pos and neg on one speaker. Changing the phase can often make a big change to midbass.
  11. There will be a filter someware. Probably have the cap attached to the mid's basket to make instalation easier. From what you've said I think you are expecting aftermarket speakers to be able to match oem speakers but theres more to it than that. Oem speakers are paper cones. Making them very sensitive and able to produce the lower midbass notes quite well at low volumes but drop off badly as you turn it up. Also, they will be designed in conjunction with Skoda so have had x watts in mind. The aftermarket speakers are all designed to be run with an external amp, not the 10watts your headunit can give them. I'd suggest getting a small amp and it will transform the speakers. Also the cup you have over the back of them wont be helping. They are designed to play into the door cavity, not a tiny enclosure.
  12. If the amp is for the speakers use the hpf The sub amp use the lpf
  13. Hpf try 80hz and lpf 80hz. It's not set in stone, try different combinations.
  14. There isn't such thing as an "inline amplifier". You would need to splice into the rear speaker cables etc The foam cup you a bought to go over the back of the speaker isn't ideal as the speakers are not designed for it. The deadening will just stop rattling. I would suggest fitting a wave diffuser behind the speaker inside the door cavity.
  15. The crossover is a filter but you still need to filter out the lows at the amp and headunit side. The crossover and hpf are not brick walls like I said. Right now you are relying on the crossover having a steep cut off at the lower end to stop sending sub frequencies to your midbass speaker's. You have 2 hpf to help prevent this. I'd use them if I were you