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140PD

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Posts posted by 140PD

  1. the light is the puddle light and the indicator and it all one unit. you can change the bulb but not the led's. cant remember if the bulb is for the puddle light or indicator though. Also i had to get an adapter lead for an extra £10 as the new light part has a different female port then the old parts. i have a 2005 model. hope that helps

  2. i got the spax rsx on mine (not vrs but 140), Bian is right the ride is firmer. the adjustable shocks are fun, set them soft most of the time but hard sometimes. i didn't change anything else when i changed mine.

    i got stiffest whitelines rarb, couldnt be bothered with adjustable one. i did the rarb before the suspension and it changed the car drastically! for the better!

    i was disappointed at how low the spax go at max drop tbh. they have a large range of adjustment as well. how much lower can droplinks take it?? :)

  3. OK, been quite a while since getting the coilover set. i have had time to play with it and i feel its set up pretty well now. So:

     

    The LOOK:

    Partly I bought the kit to lower the vehicle, even on the lowest settings its not really that low. no real issues with scrapping front bumper or catching anything underneath the car while driving in the city or on countryside non-primary/B roads. Honestly i was expecting the way the car sits on the lowest spring setting would be the heighest it could be and you could lower it from there (the kits 35-65mm drop). It does still look nice though and if i get some 17" or even maybe 18" on there it should eat up the remaining arch gap.

     

    The RIDE:

    I wanted a firmer feel that didnt comprimise comfort too much. I knew it would be firmer but was expecting the kit to do as stated in the marketing copy which, does claim on the softer setting should feel the same as your standard suspension. I do have it set low but even with the shocks set soft its firmer, not too firm but i would have thought that level of firmness would have been just before the halfway mark from soft to firm. Essentially even the soft setting feels firm, but having the car set low on the springs does also make it feel firm. To acheive this standard feel you do have to have the springs set high and the shocks set soft and then obviously whats the point in getting the kit.

     

    I wanted the car to handle well while cornering hard, and to allow me to corner harder/faster then the standard shocks and springs would allow. This has certainly been acheived. 

     

    OVERALL:

    this kit is quite firm but not too firm that my 35 mile each way commute on primary/A roads is uncomfortable. The suspension has made the car a non-primary/B road battler and it handles those lumpy conrners well. The car feels very stable in the 100mph region which it most certainly did not before. There is a 28 stage shock adjustment setting knob on each shock. The front is very easy to adjust simply by lifting the bonnet, the rear shock adjusters are reached easily by lying on the ground next to the car and just reaching around the wheel, can be a bit messy now its winter.

     

    Once you have the ride height set up correctly its no more then a 10 minute job switching it from soft commute to a very hard, firm ride.

     

     

    IN HINDSIGHT:

    not so sure i have enjoyed the process of geting the ride height set correctly. This effects weight distribution which, effects the way the car corners. I do like how easy it is to switch up the shocks firmness which on the firmest setting is still effective but very firm. I think i would get a set height spring and adjustable shocks if i ever change this again or change car and want to make that feel sportier.

     

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    IF YOU live in nearby id be more then happy to take you for a drive and show you first hand.

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    I'll add some pics to my profile soon

  4. Only just did this job on my 58 Vrs.

    Tilt mirror all the way down, fingers in and it popped off, pull apart the two contacts for the heated bit and don't drop it...

    One T15 Torx (I think) to remove then you can carefully lever off the casing, there's a latch in the forward edge, but all I did was gently get my finger nails under and ease upwards. Some finger pain for about a week but it went away. :giggle:

    You can then access the two T10 Torx screws from the top, with a long (6") torx driver. Take the screws out and the whole unit comes away, release the connector and unplug.

    I was nervous about removing the mirror, but it was easy!

    All in all, no breakages, some pain... Good Job! :thumbup:

    from the attached pictures could you give me some guidance. is this the same as your one that you have done?

     

    you can see how far i got to replacing the wing mirror indicater/puddle lamp form the pictures attached. i dont have a T10 alan key to remove those last 3 screws (if they are the last piece to the puzzle). do you have to remove them to get the lamp out?

     

    Also after reconnecting everything together again i tested my wing mirror adjuster and now, if i adjust the off side mirror the nearside mirror moves at the same time but in the opposite direction. the near side mirror (the one i slightly dissasembled) still adjusts independantly. WTF!? i am pretty sure they both moved independently before. all i did was disconnect the heating. i left everything else plugged in as there was no need to unplug the cables going into the motor/motor housing.

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    • Like 1
  5. you can see how far i got to replacing the wing mirror indicater/puddle lamp form the pictures attached. i dont have a T10 alan key to remove those last 3 screws (if they are the last piece to the puzzle). do you have to remove them to get the lamp out?

     

    Also after reconnecting everything together again i tested my wing mirror adjuster and now, if i adjust the off side mirror the nearside mirror moves at the same time but in the opposite direction. the near side mirror (the one i slightly dissasembled) still adjusts independantly. WTF!? i am pretty sure they both moved independently before. all i did was disconnect the heating. i left everything else plugged in as there was no need to unplug the cables going into the motor/motor housing.

    post-49050-0-17243900-1377695013_thumb.jpg

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  6. i will get a review on here once i can drive the car which was out of MOT. I went to pick it up last friday but to get the old broken spring off they had to cut if off. They cut through the ABS sensor while doing that... im not a mechanic and dont really know the layout of where that would be/how they managed to do that. Very annoying! have to wait until thursday when they can get a genuine skoda part in. this was all done at an F1 auto centre by the way. FAIL!

  7. I have a PD140. I have caught the upgrade bug a little after having to replace my snapped RARB (rear anti roll bar) and put on a performance one. This increased the fun of the car by improving its cornering a lot. Its made the body nice and flat through hard cornering.

     

    My front offside suspension coil snapped, yes thats right snapped, clean. So now i have ordered some coilovers as a treat to replace it all as i have wanted it lowered for a while and hopefully to improve the ride.

     

    nothing left to do now apart from upgrade the power, beside from new rims of course.

     

    I'm tempted to leave it alone as im thinking i can never get it more powerful then the VRS but an ecu remap could potentially bring it close or even bring it a little more BHP then the VRS model. A common figure for power increase from a remap seems to be 35% taking it to 175BHP. Although this is obvisouly the maximum potential power increase and perhaps not what the remap will realisticaly and literatly achieve.

     

    So along these same lines of thinking If you remap the VRS it could move from 170BHP to 205BHP.

     

    I dont want to be playing catch up in the power department. If what ever i do to my PD140, I did the same thing to a VRS, it would always be more powerful. Am i right in thinking this? or can the PD140 become on par?

     

    What is the difference between the PD140 and the VRS. mines a 2005 to be specific. whats the difference bettween mine and a 2005 VRS diesel?

     

    Is it the exact same engine, but it gets remapped as standard from skoda? and has a bigger turbo already to compensate the remap too?

     

    If i remap mine and get a bigger turbo how much more power could my engine take? Whats the biggest turbo it could realistically/sensibly handle before it becomes unreliable and a ticking time bomb for major repair work or replacement engine or engine parts?

     

    I am reading, trying to find answers but it doesnt seem like too much obvious info is out there. As a bit of a mechanical n00b, what i find doesnt always make immediate sense sometimes.

  8. not a fan of the TD's on there, not sure if its just silver with silver thing or just too many spokes. much prefer the fewer spokes. i have been looking at rims recently and i think i want these borbet's. although im not sure the few of and thin spokes will suit the car either... what ya reckon?

    Posted Image

    personally i do like the original VRS rims but would prefer something more unique on my car. i dont even know what the rims it on are called (elegance pd 140 2005)

  9. I am going to buy the Spax RSX coilover suspension kit. my friend has them on his golf and they are a very nice ride and good handling. they are also cheap and £100 off right now. for a price of £550.

     

    How do i know which ones to order 50mm or 55mm diameter front struts?

     

    50mm - http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/coilover-suspension-kits/car/skoda/octavia-04-on/2005/2-0td-140/spax-rsx-coilover-suspension-kit-lowers-35-65mm

     

    55mm - http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/coilover-suspension-kits/car/skoda/octavia-04-on/2005/2-0td-140/spax-rsx-coilover-suspension-kit-lowers-35-65mm-2

     

    does anyone else have these on a skoda already and if so what do you think?

     

    Thanks

    • Like 1
  10. Blackspaven, thanks for making deciding what suspension kit to buy even more confusing lol!

     

    i need new suspension post MOT fail and wanted to upgrade for about a year but never could justify it. really at a loose end as to get spring and damper set or coilover's.... im thinking at least the coilovers are adjustable if i hate the ride height being to low?

     

    PRW8 chck these h&r coils out they are £100 more then the kit your looking at and can be adjusted... http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/coilover-suspension-kits/car/skoda/octavia-04-on/hr-twin-tube-coilover-kit-type-1-lowers-front-40-70mm-rear-30-60mm-2

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