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icarusi@hotmail

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    octavia

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  1. Some interesting points in this similar topic https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=135&t=1773743 Just had a search through that website and there's very little on springs failing regularly, although the MOT place and the place I'm getting the repair are saying it's fairly common, although they weren't qualifying the cause. Obviously potholes is a bigger current problem than it was and speed bumps have proliferated.
  2. I'm going to ask for the broken parts but I doubt the brand will IDable.
  3. I Just got a MOT fail on the nearside broken front spring. It failed 3 years before on both front spring and I did actually hear one break immediately prior to that MOT. I drove much more carefully since then because I wasn't sure if the rear springs would expire. I wasn't expecting another failure so soon. It's a very low mileage late 2009 model, and very carefully driven since the previous fails, so I'm now very suspicious about the replacement spring and the suspension. I did a quick search here and didn't find much grief on broken springs, unless it's too common to mention. There's been no damage to tyre or wheel, no tracking or tyre wear problems. I'll know if there's other stuff when I get it fixed. I've been driving since '71 and *never* had a broken spring 'til now. From '80 on my cars had helical springs. I keep my cars for 10+ years until maintenance costs gets uneconomical. There was a recent occasion when I went over a drainage grid, on the road separating the Fewston and Swinsty reservoirs. It looks like they've resurfaced at some time and haven't raised the grids to suit, There was a bit of a clunk but nothing massive, and that's the only memorable instance since the original springs broke. Are current springs/suspensions now more rubbish at lasting than circa 10 years ago?
  4. The car eventually went into fault mode and stayed that way. I swapped out the fuel rail pressure sensor, which I'd bought but kept back until the fault showed, but no joy. I got a boost pressure sensor but didn't fit it until I'd checked the fuel and low pressure side. Usually when I turned the ignition key, I heard clicking from the back and assumed it was the pump operating, so I disconnected the low pressure feed to the HP pump and there was fuel there, so I connected a bottle to collect some more fuel, but when I switched on the ignition no fuel emerged. I checked in the cab and no clicking sound now. So the problem was further back. I got a replacement fuel filter, disconnected all the lines, collected what fuel was in the line forward of the filter and what was in the filter. Nothing conclusive in what I collected and the line a filter seemed ok. I put some fuel back into the LP line from the HP pump connection end and forced it through with my tyre inflator and the fuel went through ok, no obvious muck blocking it, nor anything obvious in the fuel filter Next back was the pump. I hadn't checked it before because it always seemed to be working ok, but as soon as I checked there, the electrical box serving it had a spot of oil on a corner. When I pulled it up, the corner was also partly melted. Not good! Anyhow this is the 'fuel pump controller relay', so did a quick search for associated problems. Very little here in the UK but a lot from the USA inc. a big recall. The symptoms are wide and varied but can include low (or high) fuel rail pressure. I found one available not too far away but the firm has recently moved further so I couldn't collect, so ordered it yesterday and fortunately it arrived today. I decided to check the pump by connecting power directly to the exposed pump connector pins, as per the Skoda workshop manual. I'd connected a bottle to the fuel filter line which I'd left disconnected and the pump delivered into it ok. So I now have a clean sample of the tank fuel. I connected up the new fuel filter, then the replacement 'fuel pump controller relay' and switched on the ignition but couldn't hear any clicking or other noise, but gave it a go anyway. No joy! I checked the manual for fuses and No27 looked possible. No27 was blown, but I don't have any 15A fuses, but I moved one from another slot and tried again. Still no joy, but I could hear the pump motor working this time, but no clicking. I switched ignition off and on, and the pump motor ran longer. I tried starting again, and this time it fired up. I kept it running until it was up to temperature, then switched off an did an OBD2 scan. The 0192 and 1 N/A are still there but the 2 'pendings' are gone. I don't have time to take it for a spin til Monday, but fingers crossed the FPCR is the culprit of the intermittent stalling. FPCR VAG No is 1K0906093G and the one replaced is 1K0906093F (both VW KUHNKE stamped). I'll check what my local VAG spares place is using next week.
  5. Wouldn't you know it! I went out today expecting the car to be acting the same as when it faulted, inc. stalling as I drove it into my drive on Xmas eve. It fired up ok, no sign of hunting, stalling, lumpy running, so I backed it out of the drive and still no problems. Didn't run it further so I don't get stranded before my local garage has a look. I'm going to leave it 'til after new year, then book it in for a VSCD scan there, with the proviso they'll tow me in if it acts up en route. The distance there is just enough to reach full temperature, so I may be able to get it to act up at, or near the garage, otherwise I'll do the 16.5 miles of the last 2 times it's happened, but circuit locally to be in reach of the garage. I did take the plastic engine cover off, just to check there's nothing obvious being hidden. Good job I did, as the bottom LH screw was rusted in. It nearly sheared off a torx key, and I had to use a 3/8" drive version to break the rust grip, not something I'd have been able to do with the tool set I carry in the car. Despite appearances the sensors under the cover aren't to do with the fuel/air system, just the G40 Hall sensor/sender and 'Camshaft adjustment valve 1 -N205' according to the manual.
  6. I thought that too, so I replaced it and drive with a multimeter connected via the accessory socket so I could check on the voltage levels at idle speeds and nothing showed suspiciously, but the fault usually occurred when slowing but only after a restart with the engine still warm after reasonable length journey. if it was a manual choke, it was suspiciously similar to too much/little choke.
  7. Seems to be very similar detail on VCDS, just different code numbers, unless someone here knows more? http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16574/P0190 http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16576/P0192
  8. Never sorted this, but the car was going ok on short trips, and I could never get the same fault and code to reappear for a Vag-com scan at a local repairers. Got a 'P0192 – Fuel rail pressure (FRP) sensor -low input' code today into a similar longer journey, but this time it didn't self-correct and I needed a recovery. I'll check again tomorrow, but currently it's not driveable. No limp-home mode, which seemed to be what should have happened if it was the FRPS at fault, after a reset. The same code came up and same, hunting-to-stalling on idle, but high revs + no power if you used the accellerator. The recovery guy was sure it was the FRPS until he did the reset and the same fault code returned. I'm not sure the FRPS is completely innocent yet. Would a VCDS scan give better detail of the components involved in a P0192 and P0190 code fault, or just the usual suspects mentioned with these codes?
  9. Found the IAT sensor and the MAP sensor are the same 038 906 051B part, so I only need one to check both (assuming both aren't faulty). I ran the car today and couldn't replicate the fault, so I reset the code and it hasn't recurred. I made a note of the idle rev ranges whilst it was running ok today, so I can see if it goes any lower in different situations in the future. Lowest was just over 300 and often not less than1000 rpm. I can also replicate the run when the fault occurred when I have more time. I'll also check the outside air temp. IIRC the stalls have always been in twilight/dark but may have been coincidental.
  10. I found the MAP and it's relatively easy to access. Got some quotes for the part locally and they're actually less than online, just an order-in component. I'm going to check the existing part (connections) and readings before I swap it out then at least I'll have a comparison.
  11. Got the OBD code P0190 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction today. 2009 petrol 1.4 TSI Octavia. It starts and runs ok, but a couple of years ago it started stalling if I did some stop/start motoring after the engine was up to temperature. Normally I don't do stop/start stuff, mainly 5-15 miles park an hour or 2 and return, so don't know when the problem actually started. I did a start/stop today and the intended parking spot was full, so I drove on and it stalled on a straight and level section. I wasn't expecting it, but there was no 'kangaroo petrol' etc. just the power disappeared. Because I was still rolling I tried to bump start it, but no joy so I rolled it to the kerb. After a couple of minutes I restarted, joined the traffic but it wasn't revving high, 4k revs max, and I was heeling and toeing etc. trying to keep the revs from falling to idle until I got to the next parking spot. I left it for an hour or 2 and when I started it I got a steady yellow Engine Management Light which didn't go, even after a restart on my drive. The revs seemed ok by then. I plugged in my OBD reader and got a P0910 code. Previously when it was stalling I was getting no codes and no warning light. I found this for P0190 code:- What causes the P0190 code? Bad fuel pump Bad fuel pump driver/relay Bad fuel rail pressure sensor Clogged fuel filter Vacuum leaks Low or no fuel Wiring that is exposed, damaged, melted, or corroded Connectors that are exposed, damaged, melted, or corroded And this for the EML:- 1. Oxygen Sensor malfunction (emissions issue) One of the many sensors monitored by the ECU, the oxygen sensor measures the amount of oxygen that goes unburned in the car’s exhaust system. A failed O2 sensor will cause more fuel to be burned than is necessary. This, in turn, will dramatically lower the car’s fuel efficiency. You can still drive your car with a malfunctioning oxygen sensor, but your MPG figures will suffer until the issue is fixed. 2. Loose or faulty petrol filler cap An illuminated EML doesn’t always highlight a major problem, sometimes it can be as simple as your petrol filler cap being loose. It’s easier than you think to fill the car up at the petrol station and drive away having not properly tightened the filler cap. An improperly fitted cap can play havoc with your car’s fuel economy and emissions levels, as it allows fuel hydrocarbons to leak out and pressure to be lost. If your check engine light comes on, it may be worth quickly pulling over and making sure your filler cap is properly tightened. At the same time you can have a look for any cracks or damage to the cap. A new filler cap is inexpensive and may fix your problems. 3. Catalytic Converter issues Your car’s catalytic converter turns harmful carbon monoxide into carbon dioxide. If you keep your car regularly serviced, it shouldn’t fail completely. More often than not, issues with the catalytic converter are symptoms of another part failing, such as the oxygen sensor or EGR valve. However, the catalytic converter itself can become clogged if you only ever drive short journeys. To help it remain clean and efficient, it may be worthwhile to occasionally take your car on the motorway. If it does fail, your emissions levels will increase, causing the engine management light to illuminate. 4. Mass Airflow Sensor malfunction The mass airflow sensor’s job is to tell your car’s ECU how much fuel to add into the engine’s combustion chamber to match the amount of air flowing into the engine. These levels ensure that the car runs as efficiently as possible. A potential failure of the sensor will cause your car’s fuel economy to increase and your engine to occasionally stall, as incorrect levels of fuel are being delivered into the combustion chamber. As the mass airflow sensor sits behind the air filter in the car’s engine bay, faulty readings or a total failure of the sensor are often caused by issues with the air filter itself. You should have your air filter replaced once every twelve months to ensure that it is fitted correctly and working properly. 5. Faulty spark plugs/wires/ignition system Your spark plugs ignite the fuel in your engine’s combustion chamber. If a spark plug or its wiring fails, you will notice a decrease in your engine’s power, as well as it stalling from time to time. It will also cause your engine management light to become illuminated on the dashboard. Your spark plugs should be changed regularly in line with your manufacturer’s schedule. 6. Malfunctioning DPF The Diesel Particulate Filter is a part that’s fitted to the exhaust system of diesel cars. As exhaust gases pass through the exhaust system, the DPF removes any harmful particles. These particles build up over time to form a sooty deposit that can start to clog up, causing the DPF to underperform. When this happens, the filter sends a signal to the ECU. In turn the ECU tells the car’s engine to start the DPF regeneration process, whereby extra fuel is burned by the car in order to increase the temperature in the DPF and burn all the deposits, cleaning the DPF. If the DPF fails, it doesn’t send those signals to the ECU causing power to be reduced and emissions levels to increase, resulting in the check engine light coming on. 7. Vacuum hose leak Your car’s engine contains numerous vacuum hoses that help to control a number of functions, one being the lowering of harmful emissions through the car’s exhaust system. Due to the fact that these hoses are constantly exposed to extreme temperatures, they can easily become cracked, causing the part to fail. In turn, this can cause a specific sensor to inform the ECU of a problem, resulting in the engine management warning light being lit up. 8. EGR valve failure The Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve controls the amount of nitrogen oxide in the car’s engine, helping to improve its efficiency. It does this by redirecting a portion of the exhaust gases back through the engine’s cylinders, where they are used again in the combustion process. The EGR valve can become stuck open or closed due to a build-up of particles, which will cause a fault, resulting in the engine management light being illuminated on the dash. 9. Fuel Injector problems The fuel injector moderates the amount of fuel that is delivered into your car engine’s combustion chamber. Occasionally they can become clogged, which causes them to underperform or fail entirely. They also rely on the information received by the ECU from other sensors around the car, so failures in other elements can have an effect. As soon as the fuel injector stops working efficiently, the ECU will illuminate the engine management light. 10. Fuel Pump problems A failing of the fuel pump will cause incorrect amounts of fuel to be delivered, causing the ECU to report a fault and the check engine light to become illuminated. Once the fuel pump does start to fail, it is likely that total failure will follow shortly after. With that in mind, although you can continue to drive your car, you should have the car checked at your local garage as soon as possible I was considering replacing the fuel filter but I now think it's one of the flow sensors going out of spec when it's hot ? Any ideas? I'm thinking the mass airflow sensor is a possible. I
  12. ....and it started so well. I managed to get the solenoid connector off in a single movement this time. I used a fingernail on the tab and could feel the second stage of the tab moving the claw, so I pulled the connector with the thumb and second finger. It's quite easy with the claw disengaged but needs a fingernail to work. I'd disconnected the battery but didn't have a spade connector to reach the male part inside the solenoid connector. I fashioned a piece of plastic coated garden wire so it wedged against the spade connector and blipped the other end on the +ve battery terminal a few times. The solenoid worked ok, as I'd expected, but in future I'll get a spare terminal connector to protect from zapping pits into the battery terminal. Don't know what current the solenoid takes, but it was quite lively. With the terminal disconnected I did check what current the car consumes when 'off' and it was initially 1.09A dropping to 0.29A after a few seconds. I remember the olden days when 'off' *was* off = 0.00A nada etc. just internal cell leakage to consider. I did consider taking off the main motor connector and cleaning it etc., although it looked reasonable, *but* I was stymied by lack of a *thin* spanner to hold the back nut. Honestly who keeps 2-3mm thick spanners around just for this stuff?? I put the connector back, locked the tab then reconnected the main hose to the airfilter box with the 3 screws, as it's easier to access the screws with the box loose. Next I pushed the box back over the 2 push-fit posts. Strange things with a conical flange top, but only for 180 not the full 360 degrees. Screwed in the single hex head socket screw, which took some fiddling to get in its fixing hole. Replaced the filter and retainer, then the top cover via 4 xhead screws. Finally the front funnel. That's when I realised the annoying cooling hose was in the wrong position and should be under the large air hose. Fortunately I could get at the 3 screws of the large hose and there was enough play to get the water hose under it. getting the 3 screws back was trickier with the airbox fixed. The lowest can hardly be seen and needs careful placing to avoid dropping into the innards. The front funnel connector to the main box took quite a bit of pushing to get connected, so I doubt they could be easily parted in situ. And finally fixed the funnel to the front mount with the 2 torx screws. This time I used a torx bit in the miniature hex ratchet drive. I could have used the torx keys but it'd be much slower. I'll get another of those min drives. They're too useful to risk losing or mislaying. I've got duplicates or doofers for most tools, but not that. Battery voltage was just over 12.5v. Starter motor worked ok, fired up, went for a spin, got engine up to temperture, gave it a bit of Italian tune up and returned. So now hoping the 'silent click' is past, but know I can swap out the starter motor if it happens. This is the type of 1/4" hex bit drive that works in a tight spot. They're occasionally in £ shops.
  13. Managed to figure it out, sort of. The tab needs to be moved fully away from the motor. The tab acts to wedge a claw, at the opposite end of the connector, to keep it 'locked'. Moving the tab doesn't retract the claw (unless you keep the tab pulled under tension) but there's enough room to get a fingernail under it (although it's hidden under the 'tunnel' housing it) and pull the connector off. If there's only room for one hand at a time, bending a right-angle end of plastic toothpick would serve to wedge the claw up. It's a pretty good connector for lack of movement when locked and double shrouded against the elements but not obvious how to undo. The tabs aren't metal, but pretty tough plastic, as they're quite small. I wouldn't know how much tool strain they'd take though? I'm wanting to operate the solenoid independently of the motor (battery +ve disconnected and a jump lead to the solenoid) but the male connector (assuming a spade) is well shrouded so I'll have make something up to connect to it. Getting the air filter box off again wasn't obvious. A hex socket screw on the top left, a push fit flexible mount on the right and another inside the box, lower left. The front funnel fixed by 2 torx screws. The main air hose to the turbo has a large spring circlip and I don't have that tool so decided to undo the 3 xhead screws at the box end. I have a very small hex ratchet drive, otherwise I wouldn't have been able to get at those, ditto torx keys vs torx drivers for the front funnel. There's a 15mm hose threaded between the funnel and box but just enough play to get them both out. The box and funnel do separate but it took a while even out of the car, so tricky in-situ. I think something like a frame clamp would work, but it would need modding to act only on the locking claws of connector, and not compress the whole connection.
  14. Having the same problem. Have tried moving the tab in and out but no difference. The reply is confusing. "Pull the red tab back (looks like it is already) and then with your thumb pull back on the tab. Sometimes a push in first will help."? This looks similar http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=408994 The red tab(s) on mine are metal. One slides inside the other. I was expecting the right angled part furthest from the motor to detach, but does the whole kludge, including tabs, disconnect from the motor?
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