The Worm

sounds like Idle stabilization issue to me or maybe fuel pump doesn't like pumping up hill so much. Mine (not a vrs) used to dip then rise a little but I didn't worry about it, too much else to fix. My old Audi 100 needed a replacement idle stabilization valve but it was really erratic.

too late for you I'm afraid but I've used metal strapping or welding rod though the front window seals to hook onto the lock or push the unlock button on cars i've owned in the past. Ebay or your local scrappy for your window pane, not sure how easy it would be to fit yourself tho so maybe better getting it done professionally. Remember you might not be fully insured with that broken window.

2 garages near me are £27 (farmers) computerised system or £30 (HIQ) it think laser. However farmers in Edinburgh said they would put it on their special computerised jig that'll do full geometry checks for around £50. HIQ said they won't do my audi for £30 though because its really difficult if the track-rod ends are seized, so it would be £30 plus labour. Mine were so I had to replace them first (night-mare diy job). Mike07vrs not to be slanderous but your alignment is probably worse now.

put an after market air filter induction kit not a panel one mine now pulls away from junctions much more easily a remap might do a little but costs. smalller wheels will give a little more torque but probs not enough to notice its a shame cos its a good little car/engine apart from the power

mine made some knocking noises then one day drove on to my drive (low kerb) slowly and passenger side went bang. i forund pi sports springs on ebay at around £40 for a set of 4 when I changed them drivers side was also broke a little. change both fronts at least I think its fairly common prob with fabias and golfs etc its not that hard a job to do yourself provided every thing is not too rusted and get decent spring compressors as cheap ones can be a nightmare i borrowed 3 from a work friend and was so glad not to have only 2. you'll need socket set allen keays maybe some torqs some jacks put wheels under car if you dont have axel stands. when taking off the stabilising bars theres a washer type thing at the back that has flats lock that with a spanner or adjustable. may need to replace them dependent on condition about £20 for the pair. spray everything your undoing with lube like gt40 or wd40 after you yake the wheel off and leave for 30mins or so its so much easie. new standard springs on ebay are about £35_£45 a piece so £70 from garage is good

thanks will check coolant and oil but have replaced/ topped up both recently a week ago and yes seatbelt plugged in also had all warnings reset about a fortnight ago aswel as resetting service warnings. the only one that came back was sensor for evaporator outlet temp open or short to plus 00818 Im guessing this might be the prob then should stop using kitten blood for coolant. is this the sensor in the coolant top up tank that its talking about?like KenONiell was talking about think i will get a new bottle from the scrappers as min looks quite dirty

Hi does any on know why my fabia beeps 3 times when i start my car or turn on ignition it goes off about 1min after

sorry Id jumpd to wrong forum will post in fabia forum moderators feel free to remove

Hi does any one know why my fabia beeps 3 times when i sart it up?

Another update I took the sump off all nice and clean then took rocker cover off quite grubby and gungy so cleaned with petrol especialy around the lifters. they are hydrolic i replaced the oil with 10/40 and adjusted a couple that seemed to have a larger gap. now engine sounds as it should thanks guys. I wish i hadnt taken the sump off as it now leaks so will have to do it again DOH but at least i know its all clean down there

Ok Update had all fault codes cleared by a very helpfull fellow briskodian (Thanks <a href="../../user/817-domhnall/">domhnall</a>) none seemed to be related to tappets.Flushed and drained Oil to replace it with 10/40, Now have car jacked up (one side so can turn engine with wheel) with rockercover off. The tappets Have no broken springs but have massive clearance when not open like 0.7-0.9 mm varying but 1 has no clearance I am going to try and set them over the next week but not sure what to set them to. I'm still not totally sure if they are variable hydraulic or old school standard tappets. <br><br>At the moment I'm going on fordfans advice but was hoping someone could confirm the mpi engine definately has hydraulic lifters, the felicia clearences which my engine is based on seems to require the inlet tappets set to .25mm and exhaust tappets to 0.20mm. The order I was going to set them was valve 1 is open max set valve 8, 2 open set 7, 3 set 6 etc so it makes 9 when you add together, can anyone confirm if this is the correct procedure as its what I do to set my 1935 Austin 7.<br><br>When I was running the engine with oil flush in it I noticed when tappet noise gone engine idling around 1700 rpm (I had a weight on throttle holding it in a steady position) but when ticking a little about 1400rpm when ticking a loudly struggling to stay over 1000rpm and wavering quite a bit suggesting a sticking valve/lifter and missfire (like<span class="author vcard"><a class="url fn" href="../../user/10538-kenoneill/"> KenONeill</a> suggested). <br><br>The other option I thought could be the oil pump </span>pickup pipe/filter is blocked/ partialy blocked and not allowing enough oil to the top of the engine, stoping the (variable?) lifters to be set correctly. Any thoughts there or am I being stupid?<br>

I've lowered mine with pi sports springs cheap second hand on ebay (less than 1 new standard spring) when standards shattered at 56K driving slowly onto my drive hmmf. The ride feels fine to me but haven't felt ebachs to compare, doesn't feel bouncy just less ridiculously high but I have noticed my inside tyres are wearing faster so think about using shorter or adjustable stability bars as I think this should sort it, I saw something about ford ones being a bit shorter but I may be talking rubbish.

drove it for a couple of days and light went off then drove it home hard one day to test it and light came back on ant tappety noise back so guessing having a weak or broken spring on tappet causing it to stick when warm

Traffic is a nightmare down there, I think everyone just assumes they need a car so make cuts else where. There is a lot of things to do and places to be around there that are all too far to walk and a hassle by bus.

I got this too, also elephant was the same price on confused or compare the meerkat and they phoned me up and gave an even cheaper price (an admiral policy). When I accepted, then told them that my previous policy was with them, they were a little up set because my renewal price was about £100 more heehee