JackDeath
-
Posts
234 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Shop
Events
Downloads
Posts posted by JackDeath
-
-
bit harsh saying dont get them
They were on the car when you got them :-) so how long have they been used in a car that takes a lot of pounding :-)
Like most car part they will not last for ever rain/rust + good old pot holes = parts go snap hehe
-
Would also say Coil pack loom
follow the loom back from each coilpack for abut 1m and see if any wires look dry or cracked
-
£100 to refurb a turbo ? wow thats good
I have the same 4x4 as you and mine was making some strange sounds and passing oil when left for 20min ticking over
But dropped my sump 1st and found 50% or more of the filter was block with crap
So i gave it a good clean and refitted the sump new oil+filter and have not had any probs
I would do that befor doing your turbo if you have not done so already
-
Hand kinda the same thing
When i had lowerd my car right down low it made it so there was not a lot of movment up and down on the spings,
So when taking corners and bumps it would feel like the tractions was getting lost by the body roll lifting the wheel up as there was not a movment there ???
Try rasing the car back up to its max hight and see if you get any change ?? only thing i can think off if you have looked and all the rest
-
Go with the Valeo solid flywheel conversion kit will out last all others
We use them to replace the oem setup on skode taxi,s
-
Need to recut the threads the the next size up and then just put the helicoil in for the new size cut to take it back down.
Not hard to do
Stripped some myself
Just had to drill out and tap the bolts out of a TDI turbo this week lol ready for a new center
Turn =snap on the way out Fuuuuuuxxxxxxxxxxx hehe made my week
-
from your vid you can see were the engine mount boilts used to sit ??
Have you have work done in the past ? as it looks like its slipped on the mount or was no put back in the same spot ???
Making it closers to somthing that it hits off now the mounts are showing there age ?
-
If you dont have a good setup to do this it can turn out **** :-)
If you are itching to try it your self then go get an old boot lid from a scrapper and have a go with that befor trying on yours
-
Had probs with my 4x4 were the drop links hit the wishbone
could not find any to fit right so did it myself :-)
-
1
-
-
I would think any good remaping place would put it back to standerd and refund you if there map made the car run bad ??
Take it back to were you got it done.
-
Done my one last yr :-)
This is half way into it :-))
I run it all the way back to the ecu and removing the old pins from the ecu pug and inserting the new :-)
And 100% get the Part No: 8L9 - 121 - 659.....(Heat Deflector) posted above
-
-
Or just get a Car PC :-) get them for about 400ish
-
Dont even need to remove that :-)
Will be painting my one soon like billy sead
-
Would skoda green not be more like it :-)
-
Here you go pat if you still need it
Just did a guide hope it helps
http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/233430-installing-ebay-cai/
-
Hi All
Doing this as some other member was stuck so reinstalled my CAI today.
Step 1
Remove battery cover.
Step 2
Remove fuse box ? think thats what you call it.
Step 3
Remove fuse box holder
Step 4
Remove - terminal 1ST from battery
Step 5
Remove + terminal 2nd
Step 6
Remove Bracket holding in the battery (13mm) socket size and remove battery when done
Step 7
Remove the bolt holding the airbox and battery box together (10mm) socket
Step 8
Remove the connector from the air flow sencer at the left side of your air box
Step 9
Remove the clip holding the pipe onto the left side of the air flow meter
Step 10
Remove the bolt at the back of the air box holding it to the car body (10mm) socket
Sorry pic a bit poo :-)
Step 11
Remove the brether pipe for the bottom left the your air box
Right at this point you could remove the air box but i move to the batter box as it make it a bit esayer to remove so will do that here
Step 12
Remove the 4x bolts for your battery box (10mm) socket
You should now be ok to remove the air box and the battery box if i have not forgoten any bolts
Step 13
Now you can remove the air in pipe from the side of the body (10mm) socket
Step 14
Remove the airflow meter from your air box just 2x phillips screws and pulls out
Put this back onto the pipe is come of in step 9 but dont put the clip back over it yet.
Step 15
Remove your headlight bulb cover and the bracket holding on the connector in the next pic if needed (i say if needed as some other or better CAI may get past them with out the need to remove
Step 16
Put together your CAI now (i found it easyer to put in on in one) So should look like this
As you can see i have out the rubber part onto the CAI and left the nut of the top ready to put onto the body
Step 17
Now for the fun part
Some take the bumpers off /lights out / and other suff but i have found you dont need to but its up to you
As you can see from the next pic i can get the bottom of the CAI with the air filter fitted down the hole at the side of the car as i removed the light cover and the connecot bracket back in step 15,
This gives me that extra room the move.
Now you just need to move it into position so you can get the bolt end on the rubber at the botton of the CAI onto the bodywork and half way up the CAI pipe you will see the side bracket the bolts the the side of the car where you removed the air in pipe in step 13.
when you have done so do up the nuts on the bottom and side and connect the top pf your CAI the the right hand side of your airflow meter and then do up all remaining clips.
Then connect the air brether pipe to the fitting coming of the center ish of your CAI
Then put your batter box back in and the batter.
Have a last look about to see if you got it all and nothing is still undun.
Should look like this
Right think i got most of it
Sorry for any spelling and grammer blablablablabla not my best points lol
Any how this is just a small helper for any that get stuck but remeber there are lots of CAI out there and not all the same.
Have Fun and Drive safe.
-
1
-
-
Hope that is a mistake!
OLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLO right never posting late at night when my lights are off :-)
-
lol just seen the price lmao.
Must be a typo as they are abut 40 ish most of the time.
-
Depends on what one you got :-)
If i can get my ass out of bed this saturday im putting my one back on now the weather is better.
only had to make a small V bracket to fix it the the side but thats it.
If your still finding it a pain i will post back with pics of my one going on the car saturday night.
http://www.ebay.co.u...=item5199df920f
Thats my one.
-
I looked at spax when doing mine.
From what others say there fine but are a bit more harder ride.
-
Others do them as well.
Look in http://briskoda.net/forums/forum/164-performance-tuning-and-parts/ see if there is one close to you.
-
Had HiCon GTs fitted fitted to my 4x4 for well over a 1yr with no probs.
If your getting 18" and lowing it very low i would look at Adjustable Rear Tie Bars.
My was this low
They do look nice lowerd and on 18"
Then some1 made it lower :-(
-
yes but it a pointless test imo.
mot time so hid bulbs out and plug standed 1s in for test lol.
pass mot 5s later hids plugged back it.
as long as a standerd bulb is in at the time of test its a pass.
only your local coppers would get the chance to stop and tell you to remove them within 7 day.
Then after then you could start getting fines.
Microswitch problem, or something else?
in Skoda Octavia Mk I (1996-2004)
Posted · Edited by JackDeath
Easy way to see if the drivers door micro switch has gone.
When all working fine if you unlock the car but do not open the door within 10 sec or so the car will relock its self.
So just unlock the car and open and close the door within 5 seconds, the car should stay unlocked as you have enterd the car.
But if it relocked its self when you open and close the door then the micro switch must be gone, as the car dose not see its being opend