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kjayf

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Posts posted by kjayf

  1. Does anyone know what mix ratio you use the soda screens at? I am assuming its 1 to 4 with water to make 5 litres.

    Screenwash

    If you open the flap from the bottom front of the label there is a visual indicator showing the ratio of solution to water in relation to the °C protection, It shows a picture of the container with a pictoral image of water drops to indicate ratio. Hope this helps

  2. www.noisekiller.co.uk - worth a try, think their kits are around £200 to buy if you fit yourself

    I have used noisekiller in the boot & spare wheel well, the amount used was approx. 80% of what they call a sheet, & the cost was £65 including delivery. The difference in the passenger cell of the car was an overall reduction from 5 decibels at 70 mph, in reality what this meant was that the rear seat passengers can hear conversation from people in the front seats easier. There was also a reduction in lower frequency "boom".

    The insulation was 3mm thick which meant that it did not interfer with the fit of existing interior mats, side panels etc. A easy job to do which took me about 1.5 hours one evening.

  3. does it whistle on idle to?

    Yes it "whistles" when stationary at tick-over, however having been out in the car this morning it did not whistle from initial start -up, but did whistle from start-up when warm, could'nt tell if & when the whistle started as I had taken my own advice & had the stereo on :)

  4. Hi Folks,

    I hope that knowledgable guru's on here can help with a irritating noise coming from the engine compartment of our petrol vRS. The noise is a constant whistle, audible within the car, windows shut, from idle all the way through the rev range, during which the pitch & volume do not appear to alter significantly. We've only had the car a month so still getting used to its various foibels, As I only drive the car occasionally, ( it is SWMBO's daily drive) I cannot comment on how long this noise has been there other than 2 weeks that I know of. Apart from the standard "turn the stereo on" I thought that people on this forum would know if this noise was standard or if we need to say hello to our dealer. On a brighter note that car is fulfilling all our expectations, comparing it to the Clio 172 that we previously had, it is quieter, ride is better, seats as comfortable, handling less sharp but not drastically so, the stereo is better, fuel consumption about the same, and oh yes the boot is bigger.

  5. I'll be making no corned beef sandwiches for anyone, thank you very much ;) Shepard and Dog sounds fine for lunch.

    kjayf: what have you bought then? Fabia / Octy?

    Octy, petrol, race blue, xenons, rear sensors. The car has been driven to Eastbourne today and has averaged 42.8 mpg apparently, not bad as it was driven to the speed limits.

  6. Bristos have a great looking blue Octavia vRS for sale - not yours I hope (only joking) it's a used one that I think from memory is more expensive than buying a new one with the VAT offer. Let us know how you get on with Bristos, it's my local dealer here and also what you think of the Octavia. I've outgrown the boot space in my Fabia so the Octavia and Yeti are on my radar now.

    Anyway good luck with the collection and hope all is well with the car. Will look out for a blue flash going past the window later!

    From my original post, Bristos have been fine, in particular Robert Moore one of the sales guys. The vRS on the sales court is a customers car that Bristos are selling, the owner went from a Lexus LS400 to the vRS, he found the ride too hard for him! I understand that the gentleman was substantially over 21 :rofl:

  7. Good luck today

    This list should see you right:

    Documentation, Keys etc.

    •Manual present?

    •Radio Code?

    •Key Code?

    •Second Key

    •Registration Document

    •Check that they have registered your warranty

    Exterior

    •Car out in the open under natural light

    •Remote central locking

    •Key works in locks

    •Tax Disk correct

    •Dents, chips and scratches

    •Check for swirls/holograms and other imperfections in the paint

    •Check glass for scratches

    •Check for windscreen delamination

    •Check alloys

    •Check all wheelnuts are present, check for locking wheelnut

    •Check door edges for chips and other damage

    •Check tyre pressures

    •Check underside for damage and leaks

    Interior

    •Imperfections or dirt on

    â—¦Seats

    â—¦Headlining

    â—¦Trim

    â—¦Carpets

    â—¦Dashboard

    •Underseat storage

    •Seatbelts working

    •All doors shut correctly with no gaps

    Electrics &c.

    •No warning lights on dashboard

    •Mileage

    •Electric mirrors both move?

    •Electric windows all go up and down, and one-touch works

    •Heater fan works on all speeds

    •Climatronic present and working

    •ICE

    â—¦Check radio on weak station

    â—¦Check ANT power is on or can be switched on

    â—¦Check CD player

    â—¦Check CD changer

    •Lights

    â—¦Headlights (Xenon?) dip, main beam

    â—¦Fog: front and rear

    â—¦Indicators: Left, Right, Hazard

    â—¦Tail

    â—¦Brake

    •Horn

    •Windscreen wipers

    â—¦All speeds

    â—¦Washers

    â—¦Is the extra-wipe set how you want it?

    â—¦Rear washer/wiper

    â—¦Headlight washers

    •Hand brake

    •Foot brake

    •Clutch

    •Fuel level

    •Parking sensors

    Engine Bay

    •Engine cover labelling correct

    •Leaks

    •Corrosion

    •Coolant level

    •Oil level

    Boot

    •CD Autochanger

    •Variable boot floor

    •Check Load cover

    •Spare Wheel

    â—¦Steel or Alloy

    â—¦Full Size or Emergency?

    â—¦Tyre pressure

    •Tool kit

    •Wheelnut key

    Many thanks for the list I have used this inconjunction with the pdf file from wardth

  8. At long last we can collect our vrs, its been a long wait (ordered 16th Jan). The dealers, Bristos Ipswich, and in particular the salesman Robert Moore, have been very good at keeping us informed regarding build date, delivery date, when in transit, delivered etc. Therefore sometime after midday we should be whizzing around in a Race Blue shiney machine :)

  9. I read somewhere that the old EA113 has the dipstick at the front whereas the EA888 has the dipstick on the side........

    Also found this on an american forum (credit to Arin@APR)

    US MK5/MK6 2.0 TSI Engine

    CCTA

    CBFA

    CCT and CBF denote the engine's mechanical structure. IE, secondary injection (CBF) vs non secondary injection (CCT). A, the 4th letter, denotes the power output for the calibration, ie both rated in the us for 207ft-lb/200hp.

    ROW MK6 and A3 2.0 TSI Engines

    CCZA - A3

    CCZB - MK6

    CCZ denotes the european mechanical structure. A denotes the 200HP calibration. B denotes the 210HP calibration

    Please can somebody confirm if latest spec VRS is CCZA or B !!!??? Probably gonna get one myself now it looks like it's defo the new chain driven engine :yes:

    Anybody interested in a 30 month old fully loaded diesel CRV???

    According to the vehicle data on the inside cover of my service scehdule book (from the car that I cant have yet) the engine is a CCZA type

  10. The wait is almost over, the dealer emailed me today to say the the car is on a boat and should here at the end of this week, beginning of next week. In contrast to many people on here the dealer (Bristos Ipswich) have emailed me or phoned me every 2 weeks and has been very helpful with additional items added to the factory order, and no its not because I paid full price, when we ordred the car a deal was negotiated that was very close to dtd price. Its going to be a long few days

  11. By detailing, I think you might mean having some protectivbe finish applied to the bodywork?

    When I go my SEAT in Dec 2005, I had it Diamond treated and I have to say that I think it was worth it.#

    Whenever I get the car cleaned (hand wash only!) it looks like it has been polished, so I would recommend some trteatment like this either before delivery or as soon after you get it as possible.

    John.

    Looking at the process that Simon (Baker 21) performed on an estate car which had done 75 miles from new, and which had not been valeted by the dealer, this highlighted paint defects that required rectification. It is primarily this aspect of the detailing process that I will require, and ideally it would be undertaken at the dealer (if allowed). Whilst the Diamond treatment will protect the paint, it will also show any swirls etc in the paintwork. Yes I know contact Simon! however MK is approximately 110 miles from Ipswich and would be an expensive journey ! ( my SO enjoys shopping at MK) lol

  12. Detailing is only worth it if you get the benefit from it.

    I personally spend hours detailing my car, because I really like having a a shiny, clean car :).

    If you're not that picky you probably wouldn't tell much difference between a detailed car and a dealer valet.

    If you want someone to do it for you, get on Detailing world - there are loads of people on there who Detail for a living :).

    Thanks for the replies, my thoughts are that if the car bodywork, interior, engine compartment, underneath is good to start with, then it will be easier to maintain that condition. Unfortunately my detailing skills are not of sufficient quality for me to produce an acceptable result, & I am loath to practice on a new car

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