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2012 Citigo Elegance Greentech 3dr - 75hp Silver 30,000 miles 2 owners £0 tax MOT 'till July 2017 We're selling the car due to swapping to a big tank for shifting duties. Second owner, have had the car just over a year. During that time it has had new front disks and new tyres all round, and a new auxiliary belt. Bodywork pretty good (see pictures), note the two small stone chips on the bonnet that were touched-in by the previous owner. Unmarked alloys. Two service stamps in the book - I serviced the car myself last year (Oil/Filter, Air filter, Pollen filter) Viewing either in central London (N1) or Buckinghamshire (HP9), both weekends only. (PID satnav thingy included) I'm looking for £3500 Cheers David

That particular belt was 3 years old / 28K. Unless it was changed before (I'm the second keeper).

Fair enough. It's not unknown to get a rogue battery from new - they can test OK but have internal issues that only show with vibration. Hopefully the receiver will fix the issue.

Err no... not the fob batteries. The car battery!

Before doing this make absolutely sure the battery is OK. Failing ones can cause chaos!

I noticed when checking the oil that the auxiliary belt had developed a longitudinal crack. Thought I'd better be safe than sorry and replace the belt. At less than 9 quid delivered from Euro, why not. The part number is 6PK1000 for cars with aircon. To remove the old belt you'll need a 16mm socket with (ideally) a 1/2" ratchet. From under the car (you can reach the tensioner with the car on the ground if you contort appropriately), release the tensioner by turning it anticlockwise. If you're nubile enough you will be able to slip the belt off the tensioner and the other pulleys with your spare hand. Fit the new belt around the three pulleys taking care to centre it appropriately. It will probably be necessary to turn the tensioner anticlockwise as far as it will go, and since the new belt will probably be tighter it's a lot easier to have a helper on hand to thread the belt around the rear of the tensioner from above. Release the tensioner slowly, making sure the belt remains positioned correctly. It should look something like this :-

Too late for you I guess, but air flows toward the centre i.e. to the right in a RHD car. (just did mine at the weekend - ugh!)

The slightly grumpy poster was right btw. The oil exists in liquid form inside the pump/filter dryer, and the other aircon components. When you evacuate the gas some oil usually comes out but not by any means all of the oil in the system. It's impossible for the machine to know how much oil is left in the system. The machine measures what it removed, then adds back the same amount of oil (or a little more). It looks like the machine was faulty as there should always be some oil in the extracted gas.... But the operator is utterly wrong to state you have "no oil" in the system. He (and his machine) cannot know that.

I'm afraid so. It's a way of upgrading the second key to one with a locking fob a little cheaper than having it done at the garage (assuming you have access to a VagCom). The transponder swap can be fiddly it's true - I believe there are other ways to associate a new fob to the immobiliser but it would require specialised hardware/software.

I thought I should share my experience of adding an extra remote locking fob to the Citigo using VagCom, as the procedure that eventually worked seems pretty much undocumented. Background: I used genuine VagCom software and cable - I've no idea if clones will work. The control module to use is 09 - Cent Elect (the locking functions seem to have been merged here in later models) Note this does not associate the immobiliser. If you want to upgrade from a dumb (valet) key, then it's best to extract the transponder from that and replace the one in the new keyfob with the old transponder. Steps: 1) Turn on ignition with a working key. 2) Connect VagCom and select 09-Cent Elect 3) IMPORTANT: Switch off ignition and remove existing key 4) Select "Learned Value Clearing" from drop down menu. Then "Save" - this clears all existing fobs. 5) Select "Remote Control Adaptation (Key Count)" from drop down menu - and then "Save" (Do not attempt to set the value to anything other than 1) 6) Push and hold the open button on the key fob until you hear a tone from the dash. To add another (or re-add if you cleared existing fobs) 7) Re-read the "Remote Control Adaptation (Key Count)" (or just select it again from the dropdown) - then "Save" 8) Push and hold the open button on the next keyfob until you hear a tone from the dash. All done. This took a fair bit of experimentation so I hope it can help someone.

Ended up getting a LR Freelander 2. Needed practical & better over speed humps :-) Would probably still have the VRS if it wasn't for the leaky doors. Fun car.

In my case it was four weeks and counting, with no sign of a refund. I recommend the OP just gets the card company to sort the matter out, I'm not minded to use ECP myself any time soon. Cheers David

Interesting that you say that, but I had almost exactly the same happen to me last year. The initial payment on the web was 'declined' but appeared authorised on my card account.. customer services took another payment and the goods were sent. Both payments were taken from my card. Your customer services were as useless as a chocolate teapot, and I eventually persued a refund through the (very efficient) card company. So is this behaviour really 'isolated' at ECP ? Cheers David

I ended up shifting the airbox because I couldn't work out how to shift the back clip, but eventually with the right size of long reach screwdriver it unclipped so it shouldn't be necessary. Definitely technique I'm afraid, hence my reference to swearing in an earlier post.

My snowplough in its element...