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2012 Citigo Elegance Greentech 3dr - 75hp Silver 30,000 miles 2 owners £0 tax MOT 'till July 2017 We're selling the car due to swapping to a big tank for shifting duties. Second owner, have had the car just over a year. During that time it has had new front disks and new tyres all round, and a new auxiliary belt. Bodywork pretty good (see pictures), note the two small stone chips on the bonnet that were touched-in by the previous owner. Unmarked alloys. Two service stamps in the book - I serviced the car myself last year (Oil/Filter, Air filter, Pollen filter) Viewing either in central London (N1) or Buckinghamshire (HP9), both weekends only. (PID satnav thingy included) I'm looking for £3500 Cheers David

That particular belt was 3 years old / 28K. Unless it was changed before (I'm the second keeper).

Fair enough. It's not unknown to get a rogue battery from new - they can test OK but have internal issues that only show with vibration. Hopefully the receiver will fix the issue.

Err no... not the fob batteries. The car battery!

Before doing this make absolutely sure the battery is OK. Failing ones can cause chaos!

I noticed when checking the oil that the auxiliary belt had developed a longitudinal crack. Thought I'd better be safe than sorry and replace the belt. At less than 9 quid delivered from Euro, why not. The part number is 6PK1000 for cars with aircon. To remove the old belt you'll need a 16mm socket with (ideally) a 1/2" ratchet. From under the car (you can reach the tensioner with the car on the ground if you contort appropriately), release the tensioner by turning it anticlockwise. If you're nubile enough you will be able to slip the belt off the tensioner and the other pulleys with your spare hand. Fit the new belt around the three pulleys taking care to centre it appropriately. It will probably be necessary to turn the tensioner anticlockwise as far as it will go, and since the new belt will probably be tighter it's a lot easier to have a helper on hand to thread the belt around the rear of the tensioner from above. Release the tensioner slowly, making sure the belt remains positioned correctly. It should look something like this :-

Too late for you I guess, but air flows toward the centre i.e. to the right in a RHD car. (just did mine at the weekend - ugh!)

The slightly grumpy poster was right btw. The oil exists in liquid form inside the pump/filter dryer, and the other aircon components. When you evacuate the gas some oil usually comes out but not by any means all of the oil in the system. It's impossible for the machine to know how much oil is left in the system. The machine measures what it removed, then adds back the same amount of oil (or a little more). It looks like the machine was faulty as there should always be some oil in the extracted gas.... But the operator is utterly wrong to state you have "no oil" in the system. He (and his machine) cannot know that.

I'm afraid so. It's a way of upgrading the second key to one with a locking fob a little cheaper than having it done at the garage (assuming you have access to a VagCom). The transponder swap can be fiddly it's true - I believe there are other ways to associate a new fob to the immobiliser but it would require specialised hardware/software.

I thought I should share my experience of adding an extra remote locking fob to the Citigo using VagCom, as the procedure that eventually worked seems pretty much undocumented. Background: I used genuine VagCom software and cable - I've no idea if clones will work. The control module to use is 09 - Cent Elect (the locking functions seem to have been merged here in later models) Note this does not associate the immobiliser. If you want to upgrade from a dumb (valet) key, then it's best to extract the transponder from that and replace the one in the new keyfob with the old transponder. Steps: 1) Turn on ignition with a working key. 2) Connect VagCom and select 09-Cent Elect 3) IMPORTANT: Switch off ignition and remove existing key 4) Select "Learned Value Clearing" from drop down menu. Then "Save" - this clears all existing fobs. 5) Select "Remote Control Adaptation (Key Count)" from drop down menu - and then "Save" (Do not attempt to set the value to anything other than 1) 6) Push and hold the open button on the key fob until you hear a tone from the dash. To add another (or re-add if you cleared existing fobs) 7) Re-read the "Remote Control Adaptation (Key Count)" (or just select it again from the dropdown) - then "Save" 8) Push and hold the open button on the next keyfob until you hear a tone from the dash. All done. This took a fair bit of experimentation so I hope it can help someone.

Ended up getting a LR Freelander 2. Needed practical & better over speed humps :-) Would probably still have the VRS if it wasn't for the leaky doors. Fun car.

In my case it was four weeks and counting, with no sign of a refund. I recommend the OP just gets the card company to sort the matter out, I'm not minded to use ECP myself any time soon. Cheers David

Interesting that you say that, but I had almost exactly the same happen to me last year. The initial payment on the web was 'declined' but appeared authorised on my card account.. customer services took another payment and the goods were sent. Both payments were taken from my card. Your customer services were as useless as a chocolate teapot, and I eventually persued a refund through the (very efficient) card company. So is this behaviour really 'isolated' at ECP ? Cheers David

I ended up shifting the airbox because I couldn't work out how to shift the back clip, but eventually with the right size of long reach screwdriver it unclipped so it shouldn't be necessary. Definitely technique I'm afraid, hence my reference to swearing in an earlier post.

My snowplough in its element...

Brrr. Nothing like that here in the smoke thankfully.

Changed my battery on a late VRS a few weeks ago. The fuse busbar has a connection to the battery +ve that should be removed first, then you can slide the entire assembly (fuses and the funny relay? thing on the right) to the right. You have to use more force doing this than you're entirely comfortable with, but the whole thing clicks to the right and then the wiring and fuses can be pivoted towards you and unhooked from the plastic bit at the front. You then shift them away to the left. As others have said, the underlying plastic frame requires a long screwdriver some time and a copious vocabulary of swear words. You did remember to detach the other relay from the right hand side of the frame didn't you? Cheers David

I'm planning to do mine next month and was having the same worries about the mounting bolts. Guess I'll order the replacement bolts too. If you get time to follow up with any tips I for one would appreciate it.

Can any kind soul answer a question about the stretch bolts on the engine mount? As I see it there are 4 bolts holding the body mount, 3 vertical ones holding the bracket to the engine mount, and another 3 holding the engine mount to the engine block (plus the one centre nut). Which of these are stretch bolts? My guess is the mount to block and bracket to mount .. but another post says there are 7 in total a) N 102 861 10 (1 of) N 102 862 03 (3 of) c) N 906 283 03 (3 of) I'm confused.. Cheers

They all look great. I couldn't make it due to a work commitment (good thing too as my filthy black VRS would have been shown up horribly) :-) Another time hopefully.

Yes, you can use a vacuum device to suck the oil out. The plastic pipe thing goes straight down the dipstick hole all the way to the bottom of the sump. I got 4.1 litres out of mine that way... then change the filter and refill carefully, checking the dipstick regularly after the first short engine run to fill the new filter (remember that it will take some time for all the new oil to make it down to the sump). Personally, I think you won't get much more out if you use the sump plug - but if it bothers you, then drain properly every other (or every few) changes. Takes 15 mins max.

There's a part number in this thread for the polo cupholders. http://briskoda.net/...olo-cup-holder/ Cheers

I'm not sure how much difference it makes on security; they both have removable faces, but I guess that you're more likely to take it with you if it's single-din. Still that looks pretty good! I'd probably lose the cubby hole thing for some cupholders though. (As whenever I put something there it used to end up in one of the back footwells due to my lead footed driving style)

It works quite well, although it's refusing to read the phonebook from my Nokia. (Not a real issue for me as I don't initiate calls while driving). Sound quality is miles better than the standard unit, and bluetooth call quality is fine too. The better half seems to like playing DIVX movies from USB while I'm driving though :-( As to the USB connection, there's a cable at the back that I persuaded to live in the glove box. (Guess I should add that to the tutorial!)

They seemed a bit stubborn at first, but seemed to pop out from underneath then pivot upward then out. I used some cheap plastic trim removal tools that I originally got on Ebay. (something like item 350267831775 if you're interested)