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mbp

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Posts posted by mbp

  1. Hi Welsh: I'm making progress but I need to take off the passenger door handle to release the cable. There are two inspection holes in the side of the door one above the other about an inch apart. I have to insert an allen key, turn it a number of times, and part of the handle will pull out from the outside. My Haynes manual (and YouTube Video's) say this is the top hole (the one in line with the centreline of the handle. On my Mk1 it is the bottom hole that seems to have the screw but it doesn't line up; all I can see through the top hole is part of the plastic handle. I'm confused.

  2. Hi Welsh. Had a bit of luck; friend inserted a long bar magnet inside the door as I tried the outside handle. After a some wiggles the door opened. Thank goodness! Now I can get at those two side screws to release the module. Question: Do I need to take the window out or can I just tape the window (in the closed position) to the door and just undo the channel  guide and move it out the way.  Another question: If I remove the the striker plate on the door pillar (so I don't accidentally close the door again), will the plate on the inside of the pillar fall down inside  or does it stay in place?  

  3. Hi Welsh. Perhaps I didn't make it clear: the door card is off; plastic membrane is off; inside door handle is disconnected. Pulling on the cable doesn't release the latch. I could take it to a dealer but I just cannot see how they could open the latch either, unless the locking mechanism can be manipulated manually somehow. There must be a way, surely.  Until I can open the door I can't get the lock out of the door because I can't get at the two screws in the side of the door. Catch 22 scenario!  😞

  4. Thanks Welsh. The actual unit was working perfectly before I decided to investigate an irritating rattle coming from inside the door around the lock area. I made the mistake of closing the door before checking everything still worked ok: The door is now locked from inside and outside. Pulling on cables does nothing. I need that door open to get at the two side screws. Any ideas how I can release the latching mechanism ?

  5. Had annoying rattle in front door. Took off door card and rubber membrane. Suspected the door locking mechanism. Took out two retaining screws from side of door which freed up the door lock. Couldn't find any problem so replaced everything. I closed the door and now I can't open it. The key fob tries to open it but doesn't; pulling the inside door release cable doesn't.  Now I can't get at those two side screws because the door is closed. I'm completely stuck. Anyone got any ideas to get the door open?  

  6. I replaced the steering fluid using the 'turkey baster' method, repeating the process four times over a few days. The fluid looks a lot cleaner now than it did, but the steering, although not stiff, is no-where near as easy as my neighbour's new Octavia or my wife's four year old Citygo.  I'm wondering if the new fluid has actually reached the pump to make a difference, or is it just sitting in the reservoir? So, that's my question: Does the fluid constantly re-circulate?  

    Thanks for your help.

    • Like 1
  7. Hi guys,

    I have a 2006 Octavia Mk1 Diesel TDi PD that's done just 60,000 miles. I'm about to do an oil & filter service and wondered whether I should change the Fuel Filter too. It's the sealed canister type. It's never been changed before. The Haynes manual states ' Renew the fuel filter * (* Only when using diesel fuel conforming to DIN EN 590). Is this the normal diesel we have in the UK? 

    So, should I replace? If so, has anyone experience of what mileage theirs was changed at and did they feel it was necessary from the state of the old filter?

    Thanks, Mike

     

     

  8. Hi guys,

     

    I need to replace front & rear brake pads on my mk1 Octavia ( 1st registered 2006 but definitely mk1 (facelift?) model.

    I've watched a few videos showing the use of a Laser 1314 rewind tool but they all refer to the rear pads.

     

    Will the same tool service the front pads?  Does lefthand or righthand thread have any relevance?

     

    Thanks

     

  9. Hi guys,

     

    I noticed a damp patch under my mk 1 Octavia the other day. On investigation I found water droplets coming from what seems to be a rubber 'vent' behind a flap in the sound-deadening pad low down on the baulkhead in the engine compartment on the passenger side.

     

    The 'leak' stops after a while but re-appears when the engine is started. No water loss from the radiator expansion bottle.

     

    Where is this water coming from and do I have a problem?

     

    Thanks,

     

    Mike

     

     

  10. Hi Guys,

     

    I've just started towing a caravan with my 1.9 TDi PD 105bhp Octavia Estate. It goes reasonably well if I use the gears but it would be nice to have just a little more power.

    I've been reading about engine remapping which would be me an extra 30bhp or so. This would do nicely, but is it really achieveable or is it just hype? Also, I'd hate to compromise reliability for power.

     

    Has anyone any experience of remapping this engine (or any similar TDi)?  What I'm really looking for is extra torque rather than speed. Would also be helpful to know how Insurance Companies view this mod.

     

    Any help would be appreciated.

     

    mbp

  11. I'm looking to increase the low-down power of my 1.9 TDi PD 105bhp so that I can tow a caravan. Does anyone have any experience of the tuning system sold by DTUK? They claim an increase of up to 140bhp for an outlay of just over £300.

     

    Any advice on tuning/re-mapping this engine or experience in towing with this engine would be helpful.

     

    Cheers.

  12. Thanks guys for your replies so far.

     

    It's a mk1 105BHP Octavia but first registered in 2006. I bought it at 4 years old when it had done only 7000 miles (guaranteed by Skoda). It had been owned by an old couple who used it to go to and from hospital mainly. I doubt if it ever reached turbo speeds.

     

    The Skoda dealer mechanic said the turbo vanes were probably ok, the problem lay with the waste-gate. I think he mentioned a diaphragm malfunction (?). Not at all sure what he was talking about to be honest.

     

    Is he right about the Turbo/Waste-Gate being one unit and the whole thing needs replacing?

     

    Further guidance, please

     

    mbp

     

    PS: Can't comment on 'VNT' as I haven't a clue what it means.

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