overdrive
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Posts posted by overdrive
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Ok, thanks anyway.
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Hi, Have you a complete front grill for a 2005 Fabia vrs?
Thanks
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Fabdavrav, I presume that you didn't mean that you can put 17" type tyres on OEM 16" Mk1 vRS alloys as long as it's within the stated 2.5% rolling radius?
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Thanks for the advice. I think i will do the solder + to + and - to - option as it seems the easiest option and will have no messing about in the future if i want to upgrade again.
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Following info. from Skoda, VW, Haynes, Pioneer, and personal experience! Use this as a guide only!! :yes:
There are two main DIN/ISO plugs on the OEM wiring loom for the stereo head unit, one has all the wiring for the speakers (Brown coloured and has the release clip in the centre of the side), the other all the power and control wiring (Black coloured and has the release clip offset on the side). Both of these conectors might be joined together, and just slid apart to seperate! There is also a third block (If you are luck enough to have it) which is for connecting the head unit to the OEM CD multi-player under the passenger seat.
THESE ARE THE COLOURS & PINS OF THE OEM SKODA WIRING LOOM TO CONNECT TO THE STEREO HEAD-UNIT
BLACK CONNECTOR (this has the release clip offset on the side)
8d/pin1 = White cable with Purple stripe = vehicle speed sensor (to increase volume with speed) OEM single DIN head-unit may not have a pin for this. (Pin function is correct with ISO)
8d/pin2 = vacant (This according to ISO is for the mute function of a connected telephone)
8d/pin3 = Grey cable with White stripe = VAG diagnostics through EOBD socket (DO NOT USE WITH NON OEM as 12v and can muck up your new head unit, especially if a diagnostic tool is connected!!! So disconnect from plug or cut and seal live end of wire) (This according to ISO is for the reversing light signal)
8d/pin4 = Brown cable with Red stripe = 12v switched supply with ignition (This according to ISO is for a 12v constant supply)
8d/pin5 = Black cable with Blue stripe = 12v constant supply to battery via Fuse No. 45 (20A) OEM single DIN head-unit does not have a pin for this, as this is to provide additional power for double DIN satnav unit. (This has on other VAG cars been a Brown cable with Red stripe = 12v switched supply with ignition) (This according to ISO is for the electric retractable aerial)
8d/pin6 = Grey cable with Blue stripe = dashboard illumination (Pin function is correct with ISO)
8d/pin7 = Black cable with Blue stripe = 12v constant supply to battery via Fuse No. 45 (20A). (This has on other VAG cars been a Red cable = 12v constant supply to battery via fuse No. ??) (This according to ISO is for a 12v switched supply with ignition)
8d/pin8 = Brown = Earth to E3 earthing point (Under the centre console in front of the gearstick) (Pin function is correct with ISO)
BROWN CONNECTOR (this has the release clip in the centre of the side)
All of these pin functions are correct with ISO.
8n/pin1 = Red cable with Green stripe = Rear deck drivers side bass speaker pin1 (+) (Red cable with Green stripe from this to tweeter in rear door)
8n/pin2 = Brown cable with green stripe = Rear deck drivers side bass speaker pin2 (-) (Brown cable with White stripe from this to tweeter in rear door)
8n/pin3 = Red cable no stripe = Front drivers door bass speaker pin3 (+) (Red cable no stripe from this to tweeter in rear door)
8n/pin4 = Brown cable with Red stripe = Front drivers door bass speaker pin1 (-) (Brown cable with Red stripe from this to tweeter in rear door)
8n/pin5 = Blue cable no stripe = Front passenger door bass speaker pin3 (+) (Blue cable no stripe from this to tweeter in door)
8n/pin6 = Brown cable with Blue stripe = Front passenger door bass speaker pin1 (-) (Brown cable with Blue stripe from this to tweeter in door)
8n/pin7 = Blue cable with White stripe = Rear deck passenger side bass speaker pin1 (+) (Blue cable with White stripe from this to tweeter in door)
8n/pin8 = Brown cable with White stripe = Rear deck passenger side bass speaker pin2 (-) (Brown cable with White stripe from this to tweeter in door)
OEM CD CHANGER UNDER PASSENGER SEAT WIRING
Pin3 on the CD Changer = Brown cable = Earth to E3 earthing point (Under the centre console in front of the gearstick).
Connector C3 on the back of the stereo headunit (smaller then the other two above)
20a/pin13 = Blue cable to pin 1 on CD Changer (CDC data in, according to ISO)
20a/pin14 = Green cable to pin 4 on CD Changer (CDC data out, according to ISO)
20a/pin15 = Yellow cable to pin 2 on CD Changer (+12v permanent, according to ISO)
20a/pin16 = Red cable to pin 6 on CD Changer (+12v switched - maximum 300mA, according to ISO)
20a/pin17 = Grey cable to pin 8 on CD Changer (CDC data ground, according to ISO)
20a/pin18 = Brown cable to pin 9 on CD Changer (audio frequency ground, according to ISO)
20a/pin19 = Purple cable to pin 10 on CD Changer (CDC audio frequency left channel, according to ISO)
20a/pin20 = White cable to pin 7 on CD Changer (CDC audio frequency right channel, according to ISO)
Cables from pins 18, 19, 20 should be all wrapped together in a metal foil screen. Or they are 3 cores of a screened cable.
You might also need an adaptor to connect your new headunit to the OEM ariel plug. The OEM plug is a right angled male, with the OEM head unit a "projecting" female. Most after-market head units have a "recessed" female socket, so an extender plug/adaptor (ISO/DIN) may be required, which can be easily found in Halfords, etc.
If any of the wires need "moving" then use the new wiring adaptor harness supplied with most good new headunits. If none supplied then Halfords etc. do adaptor harness (ISO to VAG) and then move the wires around on this (usually the switched and permanent 12v!)
FOR FABIA MKI
Also to fit an aftermarket DIN head unit you will need a cover trim piece to fit above the now exposed space above the head unit (under the row of aux. buttons on dash). This is a cheap piece (£3 ish!!) code no 6Y0 857 231 B41 from your local Skoda dealer.
FOR FABIA MKII
Also to fit an aftermarket single DIN head unit you will need a surround trim including a lower cubby hole as OEM headunit is a double DIN unit. This costs about £35ish from your local Skoda dealer code no. AZO 700 001
BASIC SPEC FABIA MKII
Some of these might not have a double DIN slot as the centre part of the dash is slightly different and you end up having a 1+ DIN size slot, so a larger facia cover piece is required. Not seen a Skoda one yet but try this; http://www.superskod...e-martinek-auto
EDIT
Pins 3,4 & 7,8 were allocated to the wrong speakers, double checked with Skoda, Kenwood, Pioneer etc. all OK now!!! CD info added.
Hi, iv bought some rear Blaupunkt speakers wich are sold by Skoda Auto as an upgrade to the speakers that come in the rear normally. As they were a Skoda replacement part i thought they would be an easy strait forward swap over until i saw that the +/- terminals were like most other speakers and without the connector that the original speakers come attached with. I didn't really want to cut the original wires with the two plugs on, hence buying these replacements rather than a higher spec pair but if i have to i will. What wires do i connect to the +/- of the new speaker as there are 4 wires per speaker rather than just a + wire and - wire.:think:
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My furby vrs is due its oil & filter change. The thing is i recently was given a few bits & bobs that i had taken as payment for some work i had done for a friend & among the things given is a unopened 5ltr bottle of Shell HELIX ULTRA R 5w-30 Diesel oil(fully synth). The thing is it says "Meets Renault RN 0720 for Renault diesel engines fitted with particulate traps" and on the back says it was specifically designed for Renault engines fitted with the particulate traps requiring RN 0720. Has anyone else heard of this oil type & the main question is can i do my oil change with it as i know the car does not have a particulate trap/filter but the oil is designed to prevent dirt/deposit build up & contains special cleansing agents. What do you guys think?
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To save me contacting the company - how much was P&P to the UK?
For the new style rear vRS badge inc p+p to UK is 15 euros.
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You can find most of the codes mentioned on www.fabia-vrs.com Hope it helps!
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Iv asked Gareth 1.8T if he can give me the part number so soon as i hear back from him i will let you know what it is & the price ash9988777.
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No problem at all. Asked local dealer to order, waited a couple of days and collected....
Any chance of grabing the part number from you then pls Gareth
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Does anyone no the part number for the new style vRS rear badge? Iv looked high & low for a while now but cant seem to get it anywhere
. I even have asked my local Skoda dealership as the parts manager & i are mates as iv been a customer for years now but even he is unable to get one for it so far. Just wondered if anyone else has come across this problem at all. -
Regarding doing the egr delete without doing the ccv mod(elephant hose) i dont think it will do any damage but personaly i think it would be more to your advantage to do the ccv mod before the egr delete so that the engine is only drawing in fresh cold clean air rather than cold clean air thats mixed with warm oil vapour misted air from your cc that cakes the inside of all the boost pipes and you ic. Hope this helps and good luck.
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I have 2 spare sets of these and I'm picking up some AP coilovers tomorrow. If anyone would like a free set of standard vRS springs they are yours.
Apologies if this is not an appropriate place to post this but just thought someone might make better use of them than my garage and as i'm technically not 'selling' them, I didn't think i was doing too much harm.
Similarly I have a set of -35mm (for 1.9 tdi, so ~20mm for a vRS) PI springs (slightly on the stiff side but not too uncomfortable) which are free to a good home too.
Collection preffered PM me for address etc.
PM sent.
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Thanks anyone but I removed mine after I read of ppl losing boost with it on
Car has done lots of mines anyway so bit late to start trying to keep the innards clean now
I would'nt agree with that. Would'nt you rather try to prevent your ic and pipes from getting in any worse state rather than just leaving it and waiting for something to give up....ie turbo, which means BIG £££.
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You wont even need glue if you get a long chair/table rubber which will go all the way over the tube nice a tightly
I used same sort of thing. I bought a rubber that is meant to go on the end of a walking stick! its a perfect tight fit which looks OE as its black & only cost 50p from local hardware shop.
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Bit strange this one. I noticed on saturday that if I move the Drivers mirror, the passenger one moves as well, but selecting left only moves the left one. I'm pretty sure it hasnt always done this but just wondered if anyone else had had this problem?? Also, I keep getting the sqeaking noise which sound like its coming from the O/S/R but when i wobble the car from outside, nothing is to be heard. Are there any commonprobs here too??
Many Thanks!
Just out of intrest, do you have electric windows at the rear too, as im sure iv read in the manual that this feature only works if you have electric windows all round(i think). Iv only got front power windows and the dual wing mirror 'thing' dont work on my furby.
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Im surprised that you didn't do the pd 160 mod & change to a performance type panel filter before the stage 1 re-map was done:wonder: Anyway, you should feel a difference as its been re-mapped as the engine will be able to breath much more freely. Personally i like the K&N panel replacement one as it fits nice & tight into the air box & like Jim H has said it comes pre oiled plus K&N say it only needs cleaning & re-oiling after 50k in normal driving conditions, i would advise checking it before the 50k mark though just to play it safe. Good luck:thumbup:Hey,
I'm probably going to do the PD160 mod next month but have been thinking if its worth replacing the panel filter for something a little funky?
I have been reading on here a few people have replaced it with the green cotton panel filter. A couple of questions...
1. Do you have to use oil with the filter? or is it a direct replacement.
2. Does it make a difference at all? worth doing?
3. How often do you have to replace it, just clean every 10k?
Thanks,
Mark
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Top tip indeed
I would add, that if left too long, the actual lips on the metal part of the pipe ends wear, which means the new clips don't have enough metal to grip. The best way to avoid this, is to cable tie all the joins together to prevent hose creep at the joints, as the boost pressure rises and falls. One cable tie round each hose, then two cable ties linking the other two together.Yes moggy, thats another good thing to also check for. It just shows that it can save money & stress if you just have a good look at other parts involved aswell before just going out to buy the obviouse part first or better still have a quick look on 'search' regarding your issue;)
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Yes, i agree moggy:DNah, sleep is for the weak
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After reading many a post regarding boost leaks from boost hose/pipe joins from the EGR valve down to the top of the intercooler due to the circlips becoming slack over time and so not sealing the hose tightly i thought i'd share this bit of info. As a result usually the first thing you do to sort the problem is to go down to your nearest 'stealer' and order some new circlips(if your not up-grading your hoses), but i was recently informed by a VAG mechanic that just replacing with new circlips will not always solve the problem as in between the joins of each connection of the hoses just from the EGR valve hose joint to the top of the intercooler there are four O-ring type rubber washers (of which one is a larger diameter than the other three) that MUST also be replaced along with the circlips as its these washers are the key component that creates the air tight seal under pressure(boost) and the circlips are inplace mainly as a back up!! Anyway, hope this bit of info comes in usefull to someone.
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Hi, Can you tell me what the part numbers are for the boost pipe clips.
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I was just wondering, has your car been re-mapped? as my standard furby vRS don't spin in every gear:wonder:
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Thanks. I was pleased that i managed to get it in the bottom part of the air box where the cold air feed is & that it dont look to over the top, all be it with a some minor adjustments here & there & a few scraped knuckels:swear: but after thinking about it the last few days & taking into account the advice that all of you gave i am reverting back to the original set up with a piper cross panel filter or what other make panel filter does the job best?:yes: have to admit i like the fact the airbox is positioned conveniently below the cone filter
But as mentioned before your filter isn't being protected by the hot air in the engine bay, so you will likely loose power especially when the weather is warm.
I dont think cone filters are particularly good at filtering out fine and coarse dust and it is also unlikely they have ISO5011
You could mount a custom heat shield to isolate it off from the engine bay...there's an option for you.
I'd stick with the oem setup and change your air filter regularly or get one of those performance ones if you want it to breathe better (although i can't stand those things either)
sorry if im very cynical..its just my nature.
. I even have asked my local Skoda dealership as the parts manager & i are mates as iv been a customer for years now but even he is unable to get one for it so far. Just wondered if anyone else has come across this problem at all.
Passenger window issue
in Skoda Fabia Mk I (1999-2007)
Posted
Not 100% sure without stripping the door but sounds like it's the cable that has broken lose at some point on the mechanism behind the riveted panel that's fitted. I had the same problem with my fabia passenger window and turned out the clips had broken that the wire goes through. If it is that is causing the problem then the easiest thing is to buy the whole panel(via eBay) with the regulator, uprated clips etc already fitted to it and just swap out the panel. Hope this helps & good luck!