seriesdriver
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Posts posted by seriesdriver
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18 hours ago, Knodty said:
Hi Guys,
As the title says my Warning lights came on for power steering, and traction control, after i disconnected the battery. I done this as a precaution as I have side airbags in the seat, and needed to change the seatbelt buckle, as the seatbelt warning light kept coming on. Removed everything ok and refitted it the same. However when I reconnected the battery these lights came on. Is it as simple as plugging in to the obd plug and clearing the fault or have I done it the wrong way and broke something?
cheersPeter
You may have found it easier and less hassle to have someone turn the seatbelt warning off via the software its what I did when ours did this.
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Have you checked the 3rd brake light ? if enough leds fail it will throw the bulb out warning. As above a bulb about to blow can be enough to trigger the warning.
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What about just running it and topping up the coolant as necessary ? if it has worked for 40k so far for you why not just carry on doing what you are doing.
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My car was bought new in june 09 and nearly all the leds had gone, enough to put the bulb warning light on. I replaced the lamp about a year ago.
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I did mine and it is straightforward to do, I bought a set of trim removal tools on ebay and some spare trim clips as I had read it is difficult to do without breaking some of them this did turn out to be the case.
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The thing to also consider is what percent of cambelt failures were actually a failure of the tensioner.
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I have found vinegar can clean up an old set of wiper blades enough to extend their life
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As above I have changed a number of bulbs never had to have any realignment all ways passed mot no issues.
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14 hours ago, Michaeldavis39 said:
My father just had his Fabia mk3 cambelt changed and offered it to me to fit on my Octavia- no wear or stretch at all at 5 years old haha. My mechanic friend does lots of cambelts and hasnt seen a bad one for years- the material used now is far superior to what they used years ago plus a lot of modern engines dont run the cambelt around the water pump any more which reduces the stress and stretching too. My best friend totally neglected his 10 year old Honda Space shuttle never serviced it for the last years- didnt have any money to do so unfortunately ,cambelt had gone past the service by 5 years and he still had no issue with it- modern petrol engines sure are better than they used to be!
Thinking of belts - i have had a Bosch washing machine from new for 23 years now- 2 sets of motor brushes, one drain pump are the only parts that have been replaced- but the belt still looks like brand new! My Citroen diesel engine cambelt was recommended change by the manufacturer- note not dealerships- 10 years, so i changed at 10 years- no stretch and still looked brand new- bearing in mind diesel engines are much harsher than petrol too!
So after reading what i have written do you not think perhaps that all UK dealerships are in this Cambelt change together- i was told originally belt is for life on these cars and had a printout that was from Skoda factory, then Bristol Street Motors who gave me this printout - i was apparently given it by mistake when i questioned it a second time and told its a change every 5 years- you all make your own mind up and i will let you know in another 4 years how my belt is doing- car will be 10 year old then when i think i will change it for the first time.
1 hour ago, foregonereality said:I've run this by quite a few mechanics as well and it's surprising how some who were previously working for VAG brands are adamant that it's about mileage and not time on these long life belts.
My car is six years old, with 130,000km. I'm going to wait until it's at 150,000 or 7 years old before changing it and the only reason I'm not doing the full 210k is because my coolant mysteriously drained off before so I reckon the water pump is on the way out - and don't think it'll last the full distance!
On a side note - I get the impression that the PD engines were far more aggressive on a timing belt than on the CR engines. Would this be right?
The timing belt itself is only part of the issue, many "cambelt" failures are actually tensioner failures. My car is now 12 years old if I still have it in a few years I may well take the calculated risk not to get the belt done again as the car will have little value if the belt did break.
I also believe that the pd engines are harder on belts due to their design.
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The fact the cam belt has been changed regularly in the past isnt a deal breaker as long as you have it done, the risk is catastrophic failure rather than future wear and tear or issues.
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Interesting reading I am looking to replace our mk 2 Octavia as it isn't ulez compliant and a 1.4 estate on a 16 plate is on the radar.
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6 hours ago, Raker said:
Thanks @Squible - good to hear you've had trouble-free motoring.
I'd imagine there's a good chance the DMF could well have been replaced on this one at 122k.....our 09 plate has done 118k and is original dmf, we have had broken rear springs and one wheel bearing changed but in the 100k+ miles thats all the big repairs we have done. we get occasional turbo over boost limp mode but a good motorway run and a bottle of fuel additive keeps it away for 6 months or more. With any car in the £1500 range there is a risk but not a massive one.
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re 3 we had our seatbelt warning deleted as it started to come on randomly while driving, haven't forgotten to put the seat belt on without it.
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1 hour ago, bbwill11 said:
Hiya, Know this hasn't be brought up recently however I have bought and Audi A3 Tdi recently as was reading through some forms to see the bxe engine is no good went and had a look at the engine code and turns out its a bxe its done 120k miles and seems perfectly fine is there anything really to worry about?
No more so than any other engine at that mileage, assuming it has been serviced regularly with the correct spec oil etc. Our pd skoda has done 118k miles I see no reason it wouldnt do the same mileage again or more, it has always been serviced on time.
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Depending on which compressor is fitted the nut holds the pulley on can come loose and stops the aircon working, it happened to ours and an air gun retightening sorted it out. Also there can be issues with the shear plate between the pulley and compressor body.
https://www.instructables.com/VW-Audi-Seat-Skoda-Air-Conditioning-Compressor-Pum/
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1 hour ago, Stuart2021 said:
Finally a happy outcome with this one! Thought it would be good to update the thread in case anyone else has a similar problem in the future and for reference.
Anyway, following the second garage diagnosing the problem as a faulty turbo and requiring a new one, I arranged for a mobile mechanic to come out and quote for removal/refitting of a turbo with a view to sending it off for refurbishment.
The mobile mechanic did a quick diagnosis check first for me and plugging in the fault reader it did show up as a P0299 turbo issue. Following this he checked the around the air filter and also gave the boost pressure sensor a clean with electrical cleaner spray.
Good news is that this totally resolved the issue and the car now drives perfect. It turns out that the Boost pressure sensor was dirty which was feeding back to an error code showing up and being interpreted as a problem with the turbo from the fault code reading.
To identify where the sensor is it is located towards the back of the engine on the top. Part code on the front of the sensor is 0 281 002 399.
He just charged for the labour / call out of £35.00 which I was really pleased with.
I’ve complained to the original two garages as feel that I’ve had to pay out for a quotation / fault diagnosis which was totally inaccurate. In fairness to the second garage I can see how they came to the conclusion that it was the turbo and when I dropped it off they were very busy that day. The second garage has agreed to refund the quotation cost which is a good outcome and they did say that they should have been clearer that they would have investigated the issue in more depth before fitting a new turbo…
I’m still waiting to hear back from the first garage but thought give them reasonable time to respond. Thankfully I didn’t go ahead with their suggestion for a replacement clutch/flywheel or take it to Milta to have a look at as it turns out that it was nothing to do with transmission side of things.
I think I will look at selling the car in the short term as with the age and mileage of the car I’m dreading something expensive actually going wrong!
I'm sure you know whats best in your circumstances but if the car is fine now why sell ? unless you replace it with something so new it is still under manufactures warranty you are still at risk of paying for repairs . Our Octavia is a 2009 and has done 118k miles and It is still a very good car.
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On my series land rover I get carb icing in cool damp conditions rather than on below freezing days you can open the bonnet and see white frost on the outside of the carb.
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2 minutes ago, Warrior193 said:
Probably worth giving the engine a head-off inspection - you may have been very lucky that the belt failed while idling in neutral - low kinetic energy and engine not being driven by wheels after failure.
Agree with this its worth taking the head off to have a look, the op may be very fortunate plus if you know what the damage is it may be easier to sell as is as a new buyer would know what they are taking on
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You will need to get the car to a garage to have a look at it no point guessing here as to how bad it might be, best case it can be put right for a reasonable fee worst case you may need a new engine/it may not be economic to repair.
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7 hours ago, MicMac said:
The shield is aluminium, bearing in mind how quickly a steel can lid will rust to nothing in Scottish weather it may be better to make washers from an aluminium drinks can. Just fold several layers to get sufficient strength.
If you drill a small hole through the "washer" you may find knocking it on over the pin grips enough to make the star washer unnecessary.
3 hours ago, erindad said:aluminium and steel placed together do not mix , the steel will rot the aluminium (electrolysis ? ) so better with an aluminium washer
The lids I used were all off glass sauce jars and were painted/coated in whatever food lids are covered in so I dont think it would be an issue.
I tried being tight and not using new star washers and just the lid washers as you suggest and the heatshields rattled again quite quickly as the washers didnt grip tight enough new star washers underneath did the trick.
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9 hours ago, J.R. said:
Clever stuff if it can induce combustion to burn off deposits at one precise location in the exhaust system after having been combusted itself under compression ignition.
Clever enough to sell hope.
Mr Muscle on the other hand does work but not through the fuel tank, it needs an enema.
The archoil product solved my issue I thought it was snake oil as you do, but my garage suggested trying it as an alternative to a replacement turbo and it worked.
The mr muscle treatment is better but not everyone is mechanically confident enough to take it on.
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I had this on my son's polo and I got new clips and made big washers out of the metal lids off of pasta sauce jars and put them on and secured them with the new clips.
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it may be sticky turbo vane overboost try running a bottle of this https://www.powerenhancer.co.uk/archoil-ar6400-d-max-professional-diesel-engine-turbo-dpf-cat-cleaner-concentrate.html throught it and take it on a motorway run, it has cured it on my car without the need to replace the turbo so far.
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Hi, you need to get your calculator out and do the sums as to either you get the engine replaced/ repaired or you trade what you have in for something else, either way it will cost you some money unfortunately. As it recently passed mot I would seriously consider getting rid tbh as the path of least hassle, let it become someone else's problem
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Alternator warning light on: advice, please
in Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013)
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If you have a multimeter and know how to use it start the car and see what voltage you have at the battery you should be able to work out if the alternator is charging or not.