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lumac999

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Posts posted by lumac999

  1. I did mine, put cyanogen on it. If you follow the instructions your be fine. I don't live nearby so can't help on that front.

    I'm a bit confused as to which method to use to install.

    Here: sanfranciscoandroid.co.uk/android/how-to-choose-and-install-a-rom/

    is a kind of manual install which I'm assuming applies to Gen 1 phones

    and here: youtube.com/watch?v=XZ9VgyaIT4w&list=FLtywmcsYHJv1tadRkQNJ5vg&index=1&feature=plpp_video

    is a kind of auto install which I'm assuming applies to Gen 2 phones only.

    Is that correct?

    Thanks

  2. Rubbish

    OK have it your way. Consider that if you got stopped and they said your NSF tyre was below limit (without a serial number to determine the actual tyre in question) you could easily change it for another and argue that it wasn't below limit. HAve a look at the numbering on your tyres.

  3. Every tyre has a serial number. It's not enough to just take a photo without that number and say it was on a particular car. Therefore, should have given a FPN or summons to follow both with said serial number of offending tyre(s).

  4. My 2001 110TDI has it's MAP in that location. I had a half-hearted attempt at removing it a while ago, and I could not get a screwdriver at a suitable angle for the left most (wing side) screw.

    Mine was pretty difficult to get out but you are right about the need to remove the light as with it in situ there's no room.

  5. I have a 1993 PD130 estate. I bought a code reader ('U280') some time ago and have used it at every service, with no faults stored. Today the engine management light came on (although everything appears to be running perfectly normally). Connecting the U280 gives me a code '17664', but this code isn't listed in the booklet that came with the CR! I've cancelled it, but it's come back on again after about 10 mins driving, with the same code. Does anyone have any ideas? I've tried emailing the manufacturer but haven't received even a response.

    Look here:

    http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/56019-list-of-fault-codes/

  6. To be honest you get what you pay for . Ive tryed them and to say it went straight in the bin . Me and my dad brought one of these

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/AUTEL-VW-AUDI-SEAT-SKODA-VAG-405-VAG405-CODE-READER-/250768126351?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3a62f1f18f

    Seem to work ok and does what you need to do :thumbup:

    Got one of these the other day. Great bit of kit and does what you need it to. If you only need to read and diagnose codes this is what you want. Here's a cheaper link:

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VAG-405-DIAGNOSTIC-FAULT-CODE-READER-VW-AUDI-GROUP-/110653831263?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item19c37b785f

    Can also get more expensive ones but this seems to do the job.

    Alos have one of the cables to use with VCDS lite although not used it yet. A bit paranoid I'll do soemthing I shouldn't.

  7. Take a look on the thread: So what mileage have you got from your Superb? thread, and you will see some serious mileages on there - the highest being over twice the mileage of your father in laws car.

    Depending on it's service history it could go on for many more years, however you have not mentioned a price, there will be a few things that will kill the value of the car:

    the mileage,

    being an ex taxi,

    the fact it is a base model car

    But providing it is dirt cheap, (as in almost being given away) then I can see no reason why not to buy it providing you accept that it will be almost unsaleable in the future.

    Seem to remember there was someone with a Mark 1 Octavia TDI on here with 392,000 on the clock. I'll see if i can find the post.

    EDIT- It's here:

    http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/179612-how-long-can-she-keep-going/

    435,000 miles

  8. The vacuum is also used to control the vane movements on the turbo too., there is a small fabric hose which taps off the side of the main hose to the brake servo. It is the right hand of the two marked pipes in this image:

    It would be handy if you could check your joint. I let my engine idle for a minute or two, and then turned it off, and on wiggling the joint I could then hear air hissing.

    I don't mind changing parts if it will cure it, but I don't want to just go blindly changing bits on the hope it might work..... I am too tight for that :smirk:

    Yes the pic explains it.

    Thinking about when my limp modes started a couple of weeks later I travelled from Nottingham to Preston.

    Had the EML light on and going into limp mode, cycled the ignition and it was ok. I found that leaving it it 4th gear on the motorway (70mph +)

    stopped it form going into limp mode but if i put it in 5th gear it would go into limp mode again so maybe the vacuum has something to do with it i.e more vacuum at higher revs, 4th as opposed to 5th gear.

    Checked my pipe on the vacuum. spins round a bit but maybe the clip needs replacing (still on original VAG clip) but no noticable hissing. Does not seem loose other than turning round a bit. Did notice that there was some (old) oil deposits there.

  9. - could a loss of vacuum cause my limp homes

    - (more importantly) is this normal behaviour for the vacuum pump or is my busted.....? :'(

    This might explain why on the odd day my brakes feel better than normal.....more vacuum assistance?

    Good question about the vacuum. But as long as this is only feeding the brake servo and nothing else couldn't really see how it could affect limps.

    Dunno about the play in the joint but will check mine tomorrow and let you know.

    I'm quite interested in this VVT VNT turbo problem as I have similar issues which I think are not connnected with sticky vanes and maybe more to do with other reason i.e. MAP etc. although I chaned both the N75 and MAP 4 months ago. This seemed to cure limps and didn't have a problem until a couple of weeks ago when it started again but seems to more ok than not.

    Nick

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