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a65rocket

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Everything posted by a65rocket

  1. Open your sunroof There should be drain holes at the front corner Clean any muck away from the hole use a length of wire (1.5mm electrical wire works for me) and plunge it down the hole to clean it The exit for the hole is a rubber gromit half way up the door piller. To dry your wet floor use lots of towels, I ended up removinf the swab from underneat the carpet and drying it over a week, however this meant removing seats and trim.
  2. I could be interested in the RNS315 if Cheekyfork doesn't want it, does it come with the DAB ariel as well, and the Sat-Nav receiver ?
  3. I now have it working, the initial bit in the Coding then allowed me to select the Hill Hold assist in the functions section.
  4. I had this problem with my 2010 Yeti, it was the way I twisted my body before exiting the car. It caused the seat belt web to wear. Skoda replaced the seat belt
  5. Fabia III (16 plate) I'm trying to enable Hill Hold on a Monte Carlo I have set the below bit to 1 (Far right bit within Long Coding), changed from CA to CB It does not seem to be working, is there anything else to set, I have noticed in the Functions section of ABS that there was a Hill Hold Assist option as well. HILL HOLD CONTROL - ECU03 (Brakes) - Coding - Byte 22 - Bit 0: enabled (Default: disabled)
  6. If his Yeti is on variable servicing, then ITS NOT annual.
  7. With a full sized brolly in there, it supports it, but goes clunk, clunk when driving over bumps. I don't use it now, its still fitted though.
  8. I have had 2 Yeti's leak, but it was the drain hole getting blocked by plant debris. I too have had to dry out the inertia, those floors do hold a lot of water don't they.
  9. I too changed from a 170 TDI to a 1.4TSi petrol but with manual gearbox Sunroofs, I have 2 leak due to the drain holes getting blocked by fine debris. I use a thick wire (2mm) from the top holes to ensure that the drain holes are clean. Also the rubber trim gets a bit hard so use a rubber restored (Gummi something) to keep it supple
  10. Sunroofs, I have 2 leak due to the drain holes getting blocked by fine debris. I use a thick wire (2mm) from the top holes to ensure that the drain holes are clean. Also the rubber trim gets a bit hard so use a rubber restored (Gummi something) to keep it supple
  11. Open the drivers door, the shiny plate on the door step should say "Business"
  12. a65rocket

    Tpm

    Where did you get your wiring loom from (ebay reference ?) I did get one from a Golf which piggy-backed from the TCS button, but the wiring was different. I have a Yeti TPMS reset button which I brought from Skoda (£7) cheers Andy
  13. I have towed our Hobby 560 caravan (weight=1500kg) with both my Yeti's, the only hassle was the extra width of the caravan needing WIDE mirrors. 140 4x4 and the 170 4x4. No problems except on a flooded field when a tractor had to tow us off. Sits at max speed 60 fine, with mpg=29. Just look ahead and brake steady (basic towing theory)
  14. They say that it will fit an RCD510 (Bolero), what fitting instructions did you get ?
  15. My previous Yeti did have park assist, I used it twice. With my new Yeti, the dealer forgot to add the front sensors, I have looked at it, you need the additional front sensors, an 8 port controller box (located in the RH rear wing), and an additional parking bleeder with a different tone to the reversing sensor. I have a VCDS cable, and it looks like you just tick the front sensors option on. There is a Park Assist check box, but I don't know if it requires an additional module. Let me know where you sourced your sensors & cabling, I keep looking at eBay. Andy
  16. If you take a wire from the front of the battery box, its 12V, add a fuse there. then the cable goes through a rubber grommet which is behind the battery box. This appears in the LH passengers foot well, and then can be used to feed your caravan. Alternatively, in the LH front passengers side, remove the carpet which is against the door sill, one of the wires there is a live 12V, which you can tap off from , and add a fuse. This is what my local tow bar installers did on my 1st Yeti. On the 2nd Yeti, I used the Westfalia cables and did all the job myself properly. Look at the Westfalia web site to download their installation manual which shows all the cable routing.
  17. Have a look on the sticker which is on the boot floor plan, its numbers should 'decode' into the options of your car. This code is also on the plate by the drivers door. I could be completely wrong of course.
  18. Towed my 560 Hobby (extra wide) with both the 140 & 170 manual 4x4 Yeti. No problems except when getting off a flooded field (Kelmarsh 2012 Festival of History), when we were towed out. Stuck at 60 mph and I got 30 mpg.
  19. Just driven from Stafford to Lillehammer via Rotterdam & Kiel. Only passed 5 Yeti's in the 4 days so far. 48 mpg on the 170 4x4 whilst towing a motorcycle trailer. Noticed that you have to do at least 30 miles before the mpg climbs above 43 mpg.
  20. Norway via Rotterdam, Kiel to the BSA motorcycle rally - towing a bike trailer. Return Bergan, Denmark, Rotterdam via Legoland
  21. I went from a 140SE to a 170 Elegance also, phone is great, but the mpg is poor, was 45ish now 41ish (all at 70 mph)
  22. Are you using the spare key ?
  23. Yeti's are used as hire cars, so 'young' drivers are possible
  24. I forgot that I had already removed the large polystyrene boxes Its just the filler you don't need, you can re-use the spare wheel carpet flush with the steel floor. I only carry the spare on holidays also.
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