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Gary R M

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Posts posted by Gary R M

  1. Yes, but check out the T&Cs of the warranty you choose.

    1. Many excluded wear and tear, so if a DSG starts to change roughly or judder they may pass that off as wear and tear. Often a warranty requires that the car actually breaks down (i.e. cannot move under is own power).

    2. Check claims limits - a DSG failure may exceed the claims limit of some policies.

    Thanks for the info a couple of very good points

  2. Parts replaced under warranty are usually warranted only until the original three-year warranty's expiration date. So if the car is 1 year old at the time of repair then you get 2 years warranty on the replacement parts. Parts replaced out of warranty are usually guaranteed one or two years, depending on the part.

    i think I am with jrw and may extend the warranty.

  3. I had the chance to test drive another 1.8 TSI DSG which confirmed that there is definitely a problem with my gearbox. I am now booked in next week for a complete new gearbox, god knows how much this will cost, and I really hope that this fixes the problem, its a shame that this will be the 10th visit to the dealer.

    I have asked about the possibility of compensation, so it will be interesting to see what is offered.

    Fingers crossed

  4. Sounds like a complete replacement transmission might be the best solution. Unless the after sales manager is some kind of technical genius (unlikely) this sounds like its going to be a waste of time. If they can't identify the fault using diagnostic tools then what's the point of another test drive?

    I guess that it is understandable why Skoda will try to save on replacement costs, I just hope that they don't do an Alfa on me and say that its unfortunate but it is a 'characteristic of the gear box'.

    Skoda customer services did seem to be very understanding and was surprised at how polite I was at the prospect of a 7th visit to the garage but asked me to go through with this especially when it is to take some readings which probably should have been taken the first time although from the nature of the fault I am not surprised that they didn't find anything. I did mention the word compensation and they have promised that they will come up with something once (if) the problem has been sorted.

  5. Unfortunately my Octy is now going back to the dealer for the 7th time due to the judder when pulling away in 2nd gear.

    1. Test drive to demonstrate fault

    2. Car left for 1 day to check of oil levels & various settings etc.

    3. Car left for 2 days for mechatronic unit to be replaced, but the old unit could not be removed so car was returned

    4. Car left for 1 day to replace mechatronic unit which was completed, however the problem was not fixed

    5. Second test drive to show that fault was still present

    6. Car left for 2 days to re-programme new mechatronic

    7. Car required for another set of readings to be taken

    8. ???

    9. Will this ever end?

    I have now written to Skoda UK Customer Service as this is starting to get rather frustrating I will let you know how this goes.

    No faults showed up with the readings that were taken, and visit No.8 is another test drive, this time with the after sales manager, although they are coming to me this time.

  6. Unfortunately my Octy is now going back to the dealer for the 7th time due to the judder when puilling away in 2nd gear.

    1. Test drive to demonstrate fault

    2. Car left for 1 day to check of oil levels & various settings etc.

    3. Car left for 2 days for mechatronic unit to be replaced, but the old unit could not be removed so car was returned

    4. Car left for 1 day to replace mechatronic unit which was completed, however the problem was not fixed

    5. Second test drive to show that fault was still present

    6. Car left for 2 days to re-programme new mechatronic

    7. Car required for another set of readings to be taken

    8. ???

    9. Will this ever end?

    I have now written to Skoda UK Customer Service as this is starting to get rather frustrating I will let you know how this goes.

  7. Apart from the judder in 2nd which has led to the need to replace the mechatronic I have had none of the problemsa that people above have been talking about, maybe the 7speed DSG is a big improvement over the 6-speed or maybe I have just been lucky. Also the gear change ios so smooth that even if it can't make its mind up which one to be in you don't notice the changes, but if it does annoy you then just push the stick over and drive manually, it will still change down if the revs drop to low but you can control when it changes back up.

  8. I had a 2.0TDI DSG Passat while my car was being straightened up and there were only two scenarios where I liked the DSG - traffic light grand prix and cruising on the motorway.

    In heavy stop start traffic it was useless, very jerky and generally unable to make its mind up over first and second. I also found it was forever hunting through the gears when A-roading at 50-60 mph.

    I was toying with the idea of a CR170 DSG Superb estate but opted for the 6 speed manual considering I do about 40k a year. Once the warranty goes after 2 years with 80-90k on the clock I would feel somewhat vulnerable.

    I have always driven manuals since I was 17 and I can't see myself switching to auto/DSG/whatever else they invent anytime soon.

    My parents have a Grand Picasso with the EGS single clutch equivalent and its shocking by all accounts.

  9. I took the car in last week for the mechatronic to be replaced but it hasn't gone well.

    Day 2 'Sorry you need to keep the loan car for another day, we have never seen one of these gearboxes before and we haven't got the tool we need'

    Day 3 'Yes you can collect the car today but we haven't actually replaced the mechatronic as we couldn't get it off the gear box, so we need to replace the gearbox as well'

    And I am still waiting for the next date.

    At lest the car is still drivable.

  10. I have been out of the motor trade a couple of years now, but when I was dealing with VAG cars we had a LOT of DSG Mechatronic problems. Addmittadly this was a few years back and the design has been improved, but I still would not be prepared to buy a DSG car with my own money. Seen too many four-figure bills on cars with modest mileages. The real snag is that I have not found anyone outside of the VAG dealerships who is prepared to rebuild these transmissions - meaning you are locked into the dealer network for the life of the car, with the consequent high labour costs and lack of reconditioned parts.

    The DSG-7 is just beyond complex.

    I just hope I will get lucky as I would like to keep this car, and apart from this niggle the DSG gives a fantastic ride, although an extended warranty may be necessary.

    Maybe one day all cars will be DSG!!

  11. Besides the mechatronic make sure that you have the clutch replaced as well.We had the same problem on a Superb with DSG,replaced the mechatronic under warranty as instructed by Skoda,same problem re appeared and they instructed us to replace the cluct unit.Replacing the mechatronic isn't a gearbox out job but the clutch unit is.Also it's worth having the gear oil and filter replaced whilst the job is being done.Apparently these DSG gearboxes were giving some problems,around 350,000 were being recalled.Also on another superb,the oil cooler failed,mixing the DSG oil with radiator coolant,we had no other option but to replace the whole box .....

    Thanks for the advice but I guess that as it is a warranty job they will still insist on doing it a bit at a time just in case they get lucky.

    I looked at a picture of a DSG-7 mechatronic it looks like something from the space shuttle!

  12. I hope it's covered under warranty!!

    LOADS of people have had them fail across the whole of the VAG range at a cost of aprox £1,500 IIRC. emoticon-0106-crying.gif

    Yes it is still under warranty as the car is only 6-months old, I did find some prices with a quick internet search and it looks like it would be around £2000.

  13. I finally got around to getting the juddering in 2nd gear from my DSG gearbox looked at and I thought that the garage was having me on when they said that they will need to replace the 'MEGATRONIC' unit, it sounded like something from the Transformers film. I now know that they meant a Mechatronic unit and this will apparantly take a whole day after one has been specially built for my individual car.

    Has anyone else had this replaced?

  14. 1.8 TSi 7-Speed DSG

    I have noticed that when I slow down and then accelerate again from 2nd gear (so not from a complete stop) that the clutch tends to judder slightly, nothing serious but just noticeable. I never notice this when accelerating from 1st, is this common or something that I should get looked at?

    And I must say what a fantastic car and engine / gearbox combination this is, smooth (apart from the niggle above), fast and economical (41mpg over first 3k). I think that this car is a bit of a surprise to many others as they are generally used to seeing more of the older diesels used by the local taxis and of course the 1.8 TSi is also faster than the diesel VRS , a bit of a wolf in sheep's clothing or something like that.

  15. No.

    They must meet the VW504 (petrol) or VW507 (Derv) standard.

    These oils are 5w-30 oils, however they have other things in them, such as being low ash (otherwise there will be DPF problems) and wear additives to stop injector/cam wear on PD engines.

    Often the oils that meet VW507 are also VW504 oils, so that's handy.

    Mobil1 5w-30 ESP is an oil that meets VW504 and VW507 (I know this from experience) but these oils are not the same as just any old 5w-30 oil.

    My petrol 1.8 needed oil after just 2,500 miles and the Skoda dealer told me that they use 5W-30 although they said that the 5W-40 that I used would be okay as a top up. I guessed wrongly that 5W-40 would be okay as the stupid manual only lists VAG 504 as this seemed logical to me.

  16. "either from the key or the button on the boot, to immediately lock itself straight after the boot has opened so that it is locked in a slightly open position."

    I must have misunderstood the use of the word locked then...

    The estate tailgate, once opened with the boot open function on the fob, does have to be lifted, but it is not necessary to press the release on the tailgate to do so. Further if the boot release button on the fob is pressed (and thus the tailgate is released) and then the lock button on the fob (to lock the doors/enable alarm) is pressed the tailgate is NOT locked in the semi-open position.

    That is what I understood the OP's problem to be, maybe it is different on a hatchback?

    OK lets try again, when I use the key fob the boot releases by a fraction of an inch then you can here the lock re-engage almost immeadiately thus locking the tail gate in a slightly open position from which it can not be opened without repressing the button on the key and pulling at the same time or using the button on the tailgate. If you just use the button on the tailgatge it does not matter that the lock re-engages straight away as you lift at the same time. So I am not sure what use the button on the key is unless there is something wrong with the way my tailgatge is working.

  17. If it relocks before you have a chance to get the boot open (i.e. instantly) then there is absolutley no point in having a 'boot-open' button on the remote key unit - since you still have to get your hands dirty and fumble around to get the boot release on the car.

    I agree entirely about the button on the key being a waste of time, but at least you have to hold the button in for a second or two before it unlocks the boot, in my previous car I was forever having to stop, get out and re-close the boot after accidently pressing the boot release button on the key.

    Once you have unlocked the boot you still have to either grab the bottom edge or the release mechanism on the actual boot to open it up, so you will always get dirty hands.

  18. Here are my tips for improving mpg without going slower, not sure about the order

    Anticipation, use less breaking and spend less time stopped

    Use steady acceleration

    Check your tyre pressures

    Keep windows closed and aircon off when not necessary

    Don't carry around any unnecessary weight (make your passengers walk)

    Wash and polish your car, surely clean shiny cars have less wind resistance

    Use a bike for short journeys

    Try slip streaming, it seems to work for F1 cars........ only joking

  19. I think it's designed to do that just in case you open (unlock) it by mistake & then walk away from the car, so then the contents of the car are still secure.

    The passenger doors do it too. Try unlocking the car, but don't open any doors, leave it for about 30-45s and it should relock itself.

    The boot is relocking in less than a second when it is partly open, so its not the same as the door relock.

  20. Is it normal for the boot release, either from the key or the button on the boot, to immediately lock itself straight after the boot has opened so that it is locked in a slightly open position. As this, which means you still have to use the button on the boot or press the button on the key again as you open the boot?

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