Mat-Manchester
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Male
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Location
Manchester
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Model
Octavia VRS 2.0TSI
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Is there a guide to doing the above on here, search hasnt found anything? Where is the sensor located on a 2010 VRS, TSI engine? Mine runs very lumpy when the engine is cold and I believe it could be the CTS which I understand is a fairly cheap/easy replacement. Failing that the coil packs will be changed.... Thanks,
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Doesn't sound like you've had much luck, I'd set fire to mine if it was that troublesome Although mine does seem to be displaying some different symptoms to yours, missing when cold etc. Mine had a new inlet manifold fitted by Skoda 2 years ago, it's done around 40k since then so could of gone again but last time it threw an EML.
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They've had it in twice for other things and plugged it in whilst its there but I don't know about actually taking a live stream during a test drive. He did mention the coolant temp sensor saying it could be giving a false reading hence why it happens when cold. Problem is by the time I get it to the garage its warmed up. They did take it out last time but said it drove fine to them, I find that extremely hard to believe and suspect they didn't actually test it.
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As above my car is running terribly when it is cold, stuttering, missing and just generally lumpy. Reminds me of my first car (a Rover Metro) which had a manual choke and would run horribly until it had warmed up and the choke had been pushed back in. Its only at lower revs, around 1,500 to around 2,500 rpm and only on light throttle. For example in 4th gear at 30 if I just hold light pressure on the throttle you can feel it kangaroo'ing! I have a good relationship with a VAG specialist that look after it. They have had it on a couple of occasions this year, the problem is are no error codes or EML etc so it is difficult to diagnose. They had it in May for a service, recommended changing the spark plugs as part of the service, no joy. They had it again for another service last month (I do a lot of motor way miles) and they did some more detailed testing but again nothing showed up. Car was also remapped by them, I had this took off last week and the car defaulted to standard as a test, it stills runs rough. They have suggested trying a few things. First one being to disconnect the MAF when the engine is cold and see if it runs ok then, if it does then its the MAF, if not then I will need to take in anyway to have the EML removed at which point they recommend replacing the coolant temperature sensor as that could be a likely culprit given that it happens when cold. Any other suggestions? Car is a 2.0 TSi with 75k on the clock. It had a new inlet manifold fitted by Skoda 18 months ago, I've had all the tensioners updated (for peace of mind) and it had a new clutch/DMF earlier this year due to a noisy release bearing (if any of that helps!). Oh and I always run it on decent fuel, either Sainsburys/Tesco's super unleaded or BP/Shell, never normal supermarket fuel
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I'm looking at putting a cai on my VRS and the garage I use mentioned the VWR ones, specifically the R600. All the R600 ones I've found though seem to be for the mk7 GTi or the mk3 Octavia. Do they fit on the 1Z TSi engine in my 2010 VRS or do I have to go for the previous VW Racing intake which doesn't look nearly as good in the engine bay as the R600. The R600 https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-brand/volkswagen-racing/volkswagen-racing-r600-intake-system-vw-golf-mk7-r/ Or the racing version https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-brand/volkswagen-racing/volkswagen-racing-intake-system-skoda-octavia-mk2-vrs-2-0tsi/ Or do are the Carbonio ones any good? I'm not fussed about gains. I just want a bit more noise!
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I'm glad I'm not the only one! So far I have tried: - Removing the side panel and adding a line of velcro along the edge that meets the door seal - no effect. - Loosening the top screw circled above. This has now been removed and wont go back in - thread stripped I think as it just spins - Still no effect anyway. - Silver dash trim above the glove box removed and sponge inserted behind - No effect. - Fibre washers applied to all screw points - No effect - fyi I did this without gluing them in place, difficult but not impossible. Might remove it all though and do it again this time with glue. If I apply even the slightest bit of pressure to the glove box lid or the silver trim above the squeak goes. I've resorted more recently to giving it an absolute whack whilst driving - does the trick for that journey!
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Back on topic then, is my car going to explode or can I trust a custom mapper It's a reputable garage, VAG specialist and they have a relationship with DTUK as well (although mine won't be having one of their boxes). If they are mapping it conservatively and sticking to the standard power curve what could go wrong? Also, what will I need to do to 'break' this new clutch/DMF in? Is there a running in period, barring obviously not doing F1 style starts!
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I did mention the whole super unleaded thing. I can be filling up anywhere in the country so searching out super is a non starter. The guy told me they could map it accordingly based on normal unleaded but they did recommend steering clear of supermarket juice. I don't go for the whole super vs normal thing either but I can see the supermarkets getting the crap. I'm going to go for it I think, if it smokes it's coming straight off and similarly if it's not smooth. I'm also telling them to be conservative with it, I don't want high power, 230 - 235 bhp would be nice