Mat-Manchester

Thanks very much. ......garage it is then.

Is there a guide to doing the above on here, search hasnt found anything? Where is the sensor located on a 2010 VRS, TSI engine? Mine runs very lumpy when the engine is cold and I believe it could be the CTS which I understand is a fairly cheap/easy replacement. Failing that the coil packs will be changed.... Thanks,

Doesn't sound like you've had much luck, I'd set fire to mine if it was that troublesome Although mine does seem to be displaying some different symptoms to yours, missing when cold etc. Mine had a new inlet manifold fitted by Skoda 2 years ago, it's done around 40k since then so could of gone again but last time it threw an EML.

Possibly a stupid question but how many coil packs are there?

Sorry, no I did leave it overnight so they could test cold. I suspect I will be getting a 2nd opinion!

They've had it in twice for other things and plugged it in whilst its there but I don't know about actually taking a live stream during a test drive. He did mention the coolant temp sensor saying it could be giving a false reading hence why it happens when cold. Problem is by the time I get it to the garage its warmed up. They did take it out last time but said it drove fine to them, I find that extremely hard to believe and suspect they didn't actually test it.

Thanks, sorry just so I know what I'm looking for, where about's are they with the engine cover off? Does anything need resetting/re programming etc or is it literally just plug and play.... for £60 its worth a try if its easy to do.

Thanks for the replies guys. My thoughts were on the coil packs, wonder why the garage havent suggested this! What sort of cost would I be looking at? Is it a DiY job?? Thanks,

As above my car is running terribly when it is cold, stuttering, missing and just generally lumpy. Reminds me of my first car (a Rover Metro) which had a manual choke and would run horribly until it had warmed up and the choke had been pushed back in. Its only at lower revs, around 1,500 to around 2,500 rpm and only on light throttle. For example in 4th gear at 30 if I just hold light pressure on the throttle you can feel it kangaroo'ing! I have a good relationship with a VAG specialist that look after it. They have had it on a couple of occasions this year, the problem is are no error codes or EML etc so it is difficult to diagnose. They had it in May for a service, recommended changing the spark plugs as part of the service, no joy. They had it again for another service last month (I do a lot of motor way miles) and they did some more detailed testing but again nothing showed up. Car was also remapped by them, I had this took off last week and the car defaulted to standard as a test, it stills runs rough. They have suggested trying a few things. First one being to disconnect the MAF when the engine is cold and see if it runs ok then, if it does then its the MAF, if not then I will need to take in anyway to have the EML removed at which point they recommend replacing the coolant temperature sensor as that could be a likely culprit given that it happens when cold. Any other suggestions? Car is a 2.0 TSi with 75k on the clock. It had a new inlet manifold fitted by Skoda 18 months ago, I've had all the tensioners updated (for peace of mind) and it had a new clutch/DMF earlier this year due to a noisy release bearing (if any of that helps!). Oh and I always run it on decent fuel, either Sainsburys/Tesco's super unleaded or BP/Shell, never normal supermarket fuel

I thought so, damn! Really like the look of that r600 one! Anyone any experience of the Carbonio ones?

I'm looking at putting a cai on my VRS and the garage I use mentioned the VWR ones, specifically the R600. All the R600 ones I've found though seem to be for the mk7 GTi or the mk3 Octavia. Do they fit on the 1Z TSi engine in my 2010 VRS or do I have to go for the previous VW Racing intake which doesn't look nearly as good in the engine bay as the R600. The R600 https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-brand/volkswagen-racing/volkswagen-racing-r600-intake-system-vw-golf-mk7-r/ Or the racing version https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-brand/volkswagen-racing/volkswagen-racing-intake-system-skoda-octavia-mk2-vrs-2-0tsi/ Or do are the Carbonio ones any good? I'm not fussed about gains. I just want a bit more noise!

I'm glad I'm not the only one! So far I have tried: - Removing the side panel and adding a line of velcro along the edge that meets the door seal - no effect. - Loosening the top screw circled above. This has now been removed and wont go back in - thread stripped I think as it just spins - Still no effect anyway. - Silver dash trim above the glove box removed and sponge inserted behind - No effect. - Fibre washers applied to all screw points - No effect - fyi I did this without gluing them in place, difficult but not impossible. Might remove it all though and do it again this time with glue. If I apply even the slightest bit of pressure to the glove box lid or the silver trim above the squeak goes. I've resorted more recently to giving it an absolute whack whilst driving - does the trick for that journey!

My petrol VRS is going in for a new clutch, DMF and release bearing on Thursday with an independent VAG specialist, they are charging £850 so I'd be surprised if the Skoda deal includes the DMF.

Back on topic then, is my car going to explode or can I trust a custom mapper It's a reputable garage, VAG specialist and they have a relationship with DTUK as well (although mine won't be having one of their boxes). If they are mapping it conservatively and sticking to the standard power curve what could go wrong? Also, what will I need to do to 'break' this new clutch/DMF in? Is there a running in period, barring obviously not doing F1 style starts!

I did mention the whole super unleaded thing. I can be filling up anywhere in the country so searching out super is a non starter. The guy told me they could map it accordingly based on normal unleaded but they did recommend steering clear of supermarket juice. I don't go for the whole super vs normal thing either but I can see the supermarkets getting the crap. I'm going to go for it I think, if it smokes it's coming straight off and similarly if it's not smooth. I'm also telling them to be conservative with it, I don't want high power, 230 - 235 bhp would be nice

This it I'm not sure how to define a 'good map'... I've had previous cars remapped but not this one. How would you tell if it had been mapped badly? From their facebook page they do a lot of custom maps and they are also a DTUK rep but for mine they said it would be one their own maps. They've done the likes of Golf R's & Bentleys etc from what I can see.

I've had a noisey clutch release bearing for around 12 months and 25,000 miles now and I've finally relented and booked the car in to have a new clutch, DMF and bearing fitted. The garage that it's going to are a VAG specialist and whilst there they mentioned to me their custom remaps, because I'm having work done they offer them discounted to £169.99. The guy seems very knowledgeable and explained how they write their maps. Essentially they write the map for the car in question, they don't use a generic map and just upload it to all cars. I also explained how I use the car and that super unleaded is not an option for me as I could be filling up anywhere in the country. The guy therefore explained that they could write a map around me using normal unleaded, but advised strongly to stay away from supermarket fuel which I'm happy to do. In terms of the map itself they write it conservatively rather than going for big power gains so he said I should expect around 235bhp from a 2.0l petrol TSi engine. Just wondered what people's thoughts on this kind of map would be? Oh one other thing he mentioned was that they write their maps to try and stay in line with the normal power curve as well so that delivery is progressive rather than all low down etc.

Thanks very much for that. Another garage had indicated it was probably the release bearing but I kind of got the impression they hadn't really checked so I wasn't 100% confident with their diagnosis. Might look at just getting a new clutch then rather than changing the DMF as well and see what happens.

Is this the sound of a mad midget trying to hammer his way out of hell???? (3 seconds in, ignore the rest). Only get this noise when pulling away the first few times on a cold day - garage diagnosed as "clutch related". 2010 Petrol, manual, VRS with the TSI engine, 58k. https://vimeo.com/149035227

Is this the sound of a mad midget trying to hammer his way out of hell???? (3 seconds in, ignore the rest). Only get this noise when pulling away the first few times on a cold day - garage diagnosed as "clutch related". 2010 Petrol, manual, VRS with the TSI engine, 58k. https://vimeo.com/149035227

Thanks for the info.. Car is currently on 58k and I'll be keeping it for another 2 years at which point it will be on 108k so it's going to need doing either way. I bought the car on 29k and it started to make the noise within 6 months. I used to race cars when I was younger so I like to think I know about mechanical sympathy, generally heal and toe on down changes as well not pulling away too harshly or doing rapid gear changes. Most of my driving is sedate motorway stuff, hence the 25k a year but it does get 'driven' quite a lot (that's why I bought it). It doesn't seem to be getting louder but after reading that now I'm worried about 'catastrophic failure'!

Had the RS3's on my previous car, a Saab 9-3 estate. Great grip in all weathers but they didn't last very long (4 wheel alignment done as well at time of fitting), I got around16k out of the fronts. Since getting the VRS I put 2 Goodyear Eagle F1's on the front. They've currently done 22k and have been given some stick, I reckon they've got another 5k left in them as well! They will be replaced by 2 new Goodyears for definite, Appreciate that's comparing the tyres across 2 very different cars but a relative had a similar experience with the RS3's on a Golf GTi.

Hi, I've just recovered from spending £850 on a revised tensioner/chain/guide rails on my VRS and it's on to the next job! I've had a grinding noise when pulling away for around a year now. It's intermittent but seems worse now the cold weather has set in. It comes just as the clutch hits the biting point in first gear and lasts for probably around 10ft of movement, its also sometimes audible in 2nd when bringing the clutch up at a very slow speed although not as loud. It's more than noticeable when in the car though, its an awful sound! A garage looked at it some time ago and said it certainly seems to be clutch related, possibly a release bearing but advised that if I was having it done I may as well do the whole clutch at the same time (makes sense). I understand the car also has a DMF (it's a 2.0 TSi, Petrol) and I just wondered how much I should expect to pay to get the clutch and DMF done? Is this a known weakness etc?? Thanks, Mat

Its just cost me £868 from a VAG specialist for exactly that. Certainly an easier pill to swallow after reading about OctyDriver200's latest failure above, especially seeing as mine (spookily) is the exact same age and mileage (60 plate & 56k)! Mine had both chains replaced, all the guide rails, BOTH tensioners, oil and filter change.

I went for the Fiscon kit in mine, quite pricey but very good! It links in with the stereo, mine's a Bolero without Maxidot and means you can use the 'Phone' button on the stereo without having any horrible kits stuck to the dash. It cost me around £400 fitted so certainly wasn't cheap but it's another option. http://www.mobileinstall.co.uk/skoda.html