Jono

Great thanks! This is totally what I'm here for!

Hi All, Now I'm avoiding dealers wherever possible (after the ****ery that was the 23AX update and their inability to acknowledge a problem). I have a small indy garage that I plan to use for MOT/Oil/brakes etc. but I'm not sure if I should be using a main dealer or a more specialist indy for things like DSG and Haldex oil changes. Taking a day out of my life or not having a courtesy car is a bit of a barrier to using indies further away (from Nottingham) Does anyone have any thoughts or experience on this? TIA

Do you have a DSG gearbox? And has this update caused any changes to its operation? 23AX made my DSG stuck in ECO mode and it was ****ing painful trying to get Skoda to roll the software back... The dealership are dead to me after claiming there was nothing wrong and I must just drive funny...

There are several variations, You'll want to find which part is definitely right for your car, then go searching autodoc for it!

Thanks everyone, I think the bottom line is that it's possible to use them for winter spares if I wanted. Thankyou

I'm just thinking ahead for my next car, and I wondered if the spare/winter wheels I have for my Octy 3 would be worth keeping for use on a Mk 3 Superb - should I join the Superb-club I'm struggling to understand if the wheels would be usable - allowing for the fact that it might well need a different tyre fitment These are the Octy wheel fitment, 225/50R17 94W 7Jx17 ET45 From what I can tell its a 5mm offset difference and would have a 1.7% smaller rolling circumference versus this Superb fitment 215/55R17 94V 7Jx17 ET40 Any thoughts? Thanks in advance

Hi all, Just posting my experience of this same problem. Left side high beams stopped working, fine on dipped. Checked 12-wire connector to the headlight assemble as per Varooom's advice above - power to yellow/white wire on full beam. I had to strip a scrap of wire and insert in the plug to test this, as my multimeter couldn't reach metal in this plug. Located 2-wire connector inside light as per Niclask's photo above. Power to this connector on high beam only. "Crap" I thought - suggests it's the motor/shutter and I'll have to figure out how the hell to get the light out to look some more. Aggressively switchcleanered the blue 2-wire plug and it's socket, gently wiggled any bits of the internals that my fingers could get to and thankfully fullbeams started working again! Phew! Photo below is the 2-wire connector - brown+blue for me - likely as mine was the LHS light, right? Thanks everyone!

Thanks for you help everyone. This saga appears to be closed. Got a new part from autodoc - Valeo brand - the same that came off - hopefully it wont fail in 60k miles again... Local garage that I'm hoping to make my go-to place charged £200 to fit. Few bubbles into the expansion tank upon opening it after the first drive. Behaved since. Things I'll note here for the benefit of folks trying to diagnose in the future. I got a weak-positive sniff test - This was a red herring and was likely recirculated exhaust gas into the pressurised manifold then the coolant - it didn't mean a cracked block or post-engine leak for me. Borescope into the temp sensor on the manifold when the coolant was hot and pressurised showed coolant leaking into it.

5-minute job then... I'll get right on it

Amazing, Thankyou.

Thanks for your help so far with this everyone. I've sourced a new part and am now sorting a garage to fit. I have the gasket too, but can anyone suggest the volume of coolant I'm going to need to top up after fitting? Thanks in advance.

Yeah, I agree that new would be preferred on principle- but where the maths is ~£1300 new, versus ~£400 used I might be prepared to make a calculated decision to accept the increased odds of early failure of a used part. Especially as it seems right now that new parts are all £1k, with no £500 options out there. A scrapped 250k-miler donor would be a different proposition to a non-frontal-crashed 60k-miler. I may well just buy new, but right now I'm gathering the info to make an informed decision.

In sending up the @varooom bat-signal for assistance with other part numbers preceding the latest one: 04L 129 711 AC I'm also trying to source a 2nd hand part, but these seem thinner on the ground than other part numbers. New seem to be £800-1000. I can see some revisions as per this page - https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/04l129711ac-intake-manifold-skoda-32179.html but it's be nice to get an authoritative set of numbers! Thanks in advance!!!

This claims to be the correct part - at 415 Euros https://www.auto-doc.ie/van-wezel/14762726 Based on the latest revision of the correct part: 04L 129 711 AC Is there a good way to make absolutely sure? I'm more prone to paying £400 versus £100-200 for a used one.

Thankyou - allegedly compatible. I've noticed that the OEM parts seem to be Valeo - which are priced about the same but OOS everywhere! I might hold out a bit. It doesn't seem to be an urgent problem. Thankyou

I agree completely in ideal circumstances - but at the point a new one is £990, and a used part is £100, I'm going to consider the risks vs benefits carefully...

Thankyou for the tip. Is it safe to say that all those parts are compatible then? Or does it not necessarily follow? A fleabay search shows a decent supply of parts with those codes, but I don't want to be left stuck!

Slightly Necro-ing this thread, and happy to start a new one if deemed necessary... Dealers tell me for my Euro 6 Scout 184 I want a 04L129711AC charge air cooler part. From them, it's a grand - so it goes without saying I want to explore other options! There's none with that exact code on fleabay, so I wondered if anyone had suggestions or knowledge that might help? Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone! Now Skoda have un****ed my DSG (see post linked at bottom) and I'm keeping the car for a while, I'm fixing it. I have a slow coolant leak, and have observed it leaking inside the charge air cooler and nowhere else. Before I cry a little over spending a hard-earned grand from my decade-long paycut , I want to make sure it couldn't be anything cheaper! Is there any chance it could be a leaky connector or gasket etc? Does anyone have any suggestions for me? There's pics of the inside of my charge air cooler here. As a bonus question - how do I go about making sure I have the correct part number revision? and/or does anyone know how I might go about sourcing a used part? Thanks in advance! Skoda DSG update ****ery here:

Hi All. It's been some time since I updated. The DSG has been flashed back to how it was before the 23AX update. Finally my car is un****ed. Fuel economy and DPF regen frequency appears to be back where it used to be - although I'm wary of drawing too many conclusions from limited data. Skoda have offered a £200 without prejudice voucher for servicing/parts/accessories, but offered no candid explanation or apology. Based on the wasted trips, time and angst this has caused and in the absence of a meaningful apology I feel that it's a bit of an insult really, but we have reached an impasse. Taking it any further would now require me to go to the motoring ombudsman - I have no idea if this will be worth the time and effort, or if I just move on.

I've always wondered - If you trickle charge via a 12v accessory socket, does this bypass the batteries control unit? or does it know whats going on?

Hi All, Minor update. Skoda customer services have arranged with dealer to flash my DSG back to pre-update software next week. I shall report back. On one hand, positive news, on the other, it's taken a lot of time, stress, and sadness to get to here and I don't want to count my chickens yet.

Not that they need doing yet, but soon I'll need new brake pads. and then debate over replacing discs or not will rear it's head. What are people's thoughts on skimming the disks and going through 2 sets of pads before replacing discs? My rears disks are a bit scored/pitted and it seems like sacrilege to mate new pads to a mucky surface. I've seen places that will skim with the rotors still mounted to the car, rather than take them off and lathe them. Is this a worthwhile thing? I cant work out if it spins up the discs or is just a precision bit of kit that machines them flat. If spinning up the discs, is it doable with 4WD Haldex vehicles?

Yeah, we are both on the same page. Lets not let solutions at a cost to me get in the way of the fact its totally unacceptable, should never have happened and should be taken on the chin and resolved by Skoda.

If working as intended - quite wedded. If unfixable, less so. Why do you ask? Third party tuner fix is likely cheaper that the cost-to-change and really I'm a few years away from wanting to change. I object to spending a grand to put my car back to how it should be, and if Skoda cant resolve my family wont ever be buying VAG again.