Jono

Cylinder 1 glowplug came out pretty easily after blowing the crap away and 24 hours/50 miles with a quarter inch of GT85 spray in the plug well. Took tightening a few degrees then >25Nm to undo, engine was cold at the time and was expecting it not to work and to have to do it later with a hot engine. Ceramic grease on thread and stem and reinstalled at ~15Nm I didn't clock actual values/units, but approx 100 fold higher resistance of failed glowplug on multimeter testing.

Amazing, thanks. I'll do so this evening - no mega hurry on you to respond tho!

Between p200200 error and p0401 "Exhaust gas recirculation flow insufficient" it's looking like I need a new EGR cooler and low pressure valve My indy mechanic is fine with me supplying parts to fit - but I'm wondering how to ensure I deffo get the right part. Autodoc gives this selection for my CUNA, 184HP MY16 Scout, but I'm wondering if there is a way to make absolutely sure I order the right part via VIN https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/cooler-egr-13337/skoda/octavia/octavia-combi-5e5/59679-2-0-tdi-rs?fromSearch=1 I think I'd be erring towards this Mahle part - in fairness - based mostly on vibes rather than any kinda expertise! https://www.autodoc.co.uk/mahle-original/15289375 I'm also a bit unsure as to if I need gasket set from somewhere and if so, I've struggled to find those parts! I's welcome any anvice folks Cheers! Jono

I'm seeing conflicting info on how much of the glow plug should get ceramic grease on it. I'm unsure if just the stem? or thread and stem? - and if on thread, is torque value lowered 20-30% or not? I did one 3 years ago without much bother and I forget exactly what I did. A second one needs doing now, so coming back to this task!

I had the same issue, charge air cooler coolant leak. Found the slow leak into the cooler via USB phone endoscope. Inconclusive sniff test had me worried about the HG or block. I bought a OEM Valeo one from Autodoc Ireland and had my indie fit it. Total cost was £4-500 IIRC Dealers wanted £1200+ Annoyingly I now have ?EGR woes too. Bloody complicated emissions fudges.

Hi all, I'm getting intermittent P200200 fault codes and occasional CEL that resets with Torque or OBDEleven apps for a couple of regens. From what I can tell online, this indicates a EGR blockage/fault issue rather than DPF itself. VAG DPF app shows that measured soot climbs faster than calculated soot in the DPF - the measured often going negative after a proper DPF regen. Soot mass is <60% according to the app, so seems like DPF doesn't imminently need work. Car is at ~110k miles and no plans to change in the next couple of years - the sensible answer is to keep it as long as it's a reliable workhorse. What I'm pondering over is how much money to sink into resolution. New EGR valve/cooler? Cleaned EGR/cooler (s this a thing?) New EGR and new/cleaned DPF. I'm happy to spend money on what actually needs fixing, but I have trust issues with unnecessary fixes, and snake-oil "DPF cleaning" salesmen, and so on... Does anyone have any experience, thoughts or wisdom? I use a small local garage for general servicing, but not a specialist - so any recommendations near Nottingham are also welcome. BW, Jono

Hi All, I recently had an oil change/filter clean (I hope) on my haldex. I knew it was working before the service from testing with traction control off. After service I didn't check immediately out of mechanical sympathy whilst it was cold and and whilst it sorted itself out with adaptions and biting points etc, but a couple of days afterwards I noticed FW spin leaving my street via an uphill, wet junction. I've since provoked it on wet/cold roads and I'm definitely in 2WD mode. A basic OBDeleven check shows no fault codes for the Haldex and there's tons of real-time data I can check that I don't really understand but suggests it is getting power (although I haven't checked the fuse, for example - fuse 9?) Its back at the dealers tomorrow and I anticipate a potential argument about me taking in a working Haldex, and them returning me a serviced non-functional one... I'm hoping they forgot to prime the pumps or run adaptations or something and can do that and us both be happy, rather than having to replace the <£300 part> Any thoughts anyone?

Great thanks! This is totally what I'm here for!

Hi All, Now I'm avoiding dealers wherever possible (after the ****ery that was the 23AX update and their inability to acknowledge a problem). I have a small indy garage that I plan to use for MOT/Oil/brakes etc. but I'm not sure if I should be using a main dealer or a more specialist indy for things like DSG and Haldex oil changes. Taking a day out of my life or not having a courtesy car is a bit of a barrier to using indies further away (from Nottingham) Does anyone have any thoughts or experience on this? TIA

Do you have a DSG gearbox? And has this update caused any changes to its operation? 23AX made my DSG stuck in ECO mode and it was ****ing painful trying to get Skoda to roll the software back... The dealership are dead to me after claiming there was nothing wrong and I must just drive funny...

There are several variations, You'll want to find which part is definitely right for your car, then go searching autodoc for it!

Thanks everyone, I think the bottom line is that it's possible to use them for winter spares if I wanted. Thankyou

I'm just thinking ahead for my next car, and I wondered if the spare/winter wheels I have for my Octy 3 would be worth keeping for use on a Mk 3 Superb - should I join the Superb-club I'm struggling to understand if the wheels would be usable - allowing for the fact that it might well need a different tyre fitment These are the Octy wheel fitment, 225/50R17 94W 7Jx17 ET45 From what I can tell its a 5mm offset difference and would have a 1.7% smaller rolling circumference versus this Superb fitment 215/55R17 94V 7Jx17 ET40 Any thoughts? Thanks in advance

Hi all, Just posting my experience of this same problem. Left side high beams stopped working, fine on dipped. Checked 12-wire connector to the headlight assemble as per Varooom's advice above - power to yellow/white wire on full beam. I had to strip a scrap of wire and insert in the plug to test this, as my multimeter couldn't reach metal in this plug. Located 2-wire connector inside light as per Niclask's photo above. Power to this connector on high beam only. "Crap" I thought - suggests it's the motor/shutter and I'll have to figure out how the hell to get the light out to look some more. Aggressively switchcleanered the blue 2-wire plug and it's socket, gently wiggled any bits of the internals that my fingers could get to and thankfully fullbeams started working again! Phew! Photo below is the 2-wire connector - brown+blue for me - likely as mine was the LHS light, right? Thanks everyone!

Thanks for you help everyone. This saga appears to be closed. Got a new part from autodoc - Valeo brand - the same that came off - hopefully it wont fail in 60k miles again... Local garage that I'm hoping to make my go-to place charged £200 to fit. Few bubbles into the expansion tank upon opening it after the first drive. Behaved since. Things I'll note here for the benefit of folks trying to diagnose in the future. I got a weak-positive sniff test - This was a red herring and was likely recirculated exhaust gas into the pressurised manifold then the coolant - it didn't mean a cracked block or post-engine leak for me. Borescope into the temp sensor on the manifold when the coolant was hot and pressurised showed coolant leaking into it.