Solutions
-
BossFox's post in Problems closing boot was marked as the answerYou can adjust it and not have a rattle.
But you need to get it spot on.
The striker plate is adjustible, but there are also two little bumpstops, one on each side part way down the door.
The trick is to get it closing nicely without having to whang it shut hard. But at the same time have it pressing firmly on the bump stops so it doesn't rattle.
I did my Mum's Greenline, which took some time but now it's perfect.
-
BossFox's post in Oil Dipstick - quick question was marked as the answerThere is a low mark and a high mark.
It doesn't need to be in the middle.
Between the two is fine.
On the high mark is fine.
Also it's called a dipstick in the UK, not an oil dipper rod.
No idea where you are from though as your profile doesn't say, Mars for all I know.
-
BossFox's post in Yeti 4x4 Info was marked as the answerI average around 50mpg on the display, but real terms it's 47mpg if you take track days and towing out.
Bare in mind some of the other guys/girls get a bit less, but my driving is typically open roads with enough other traffic to limit speed to 60-70mph.
I didn't notice any difference to economy when it was mapped as you don't use the extra grunt much more than a few extra seconds for building speed.
It goes off the line like a scalded cat though with 200-210bhp, plenty of torque and the pre-sensing Haldex 4 that doesn't wait for wheelspin at the front before sending power to the rear.
I'd expect it's similar in 0-60mph time to your VRS, but probably quicker to 30mph as it has a traction advantage.
edit:
The stage 1 map seems ideal as stage 2 only gives another 10-15bhp and means removal of the DPF.
I avoided this as I don't like the smoky exhaust look.
Possibly just as well with the newer MOT rules I've been hearing about.
-
BossFox's post in First Yeti woes? was marked as the answerDPF Regen?