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Anyone have changed them? Does Superb I have 16 or 20mm link on them?

Basically the truth is, we bought the car, when there was 2 of us. Now I am alone and 2 chevy's (with one intended to track) and KTM takes quite a lot money also.

My selling ad http://www.auto24.ee/kasutatud/auto.php?id=1323700&rhash=a14f

Baker, do you have any twitching or pulling on the road? I mean when there are grooves parallel on the road and the car wants to go onto these. I am running same wheels as you (flat five) with 225/40/18, not lowered but there is quite much pulling on the road. Will some spacers help with that?

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262088-clicking-noise-in-dash/ http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/268780-how-to-change-indicator-stalk-on-superb-i-includes-removing-of-steering-wheel/

So last evening had a little photoshoot with Skoda and friends Combo http://mihkel-m.planet.ee/skodacombo/ After that the car is for sale. 9000€ and left hand steering

Actually this has been covered in this forum so many times, that I am surprised that nobody has written a whole DIY (not only sealing the filter housin), but checking all the carpets and removing the trims etc. So for the filter. You can do it by not removing the wiper arms and the plastic cover, but what a PITA it is. I did it for i think 4 hours, pack of cigarettes and a 6pack . It is quite impossible to get the filter housing out and more painful to get it in with sealant. So if you have time and tools, remove the plastic cover with wiper arms also. It is worth it For the carpet, do exactly what jimbof said. To remove the rear seat lower part, you just need to pull hard upwards from the front end of the seat and then push it to rear end of the car. Then you can get it out. Simple as that. When you get it out, you realize how it is connected to frame.

Hmm, ok. Has anybody got the same radio and can confirm it?

The panel can't be removed without taking the unit apart. To remove the panel, you need to disconnect some ribbon cables and then you can take the whole front panel off.

http://www.dndservices.co.uk/images/T_300/ms202.jpg How the heck do you take the right part with you? It doesn't seem that it will come off from there.

I have one fabia, that is fitted with MS202. Owner says that it's not working. It has 2 round buttons. Left one is for powering the unit and turning the volume. Right one is for searching and changing frequency of radio. Left button you can press in and press out. Also the right one, but if you press it out, then the unit loses it's power. Is this ok or not? If OK, then why the f*** does it do that? So the passenger can also depower the unit?

As said previously, the dash trims just need a gentle pull. I have removed the same trims several times on my own. The cigarette pocket is attached with (if I remember correctly) 3-4 screws. To remove screws, you need to remove the trim around the radio and climatronic and the trim around gear lever. Then it will reveal the screws. Also you need to remove (just pull out) the cigarette pocket "pocket". Rear trims are kinda same. Just pull off. Door trims (if again I remember correctly) are actually welded to doors, but I don't mean metal welded . The trims have a plastic inserts on back of them. If they are installed in factory, they are melted so they wont fall of from door cards. To change these, you need to melt them again and just wiggle them out. Inserting new ones (even if you get them from junkyard) you can install them with double sided thin tape. I remember there was a thread about this, but don't know where. If I remember, then I will take some pictures, when I take my door card off this weekend or next week.

Rear calipers is used on all kind of vw's and audis. They should all be same. Only on B6 the rear parking brake turned to electric. Why do you need to change them? These should last quite long. If you are changing the rear brake pads and can't get the piston inside, then the calipers aren't toast. They just need a special tool, to push the piston back in. Been there, done that.

I know that you can fit a Audi A6/S6 front upper strut bar for Superb as I have one on mine . It will give you a little stiffer feeling when going to corners, but not much.

Actually I installed the strut bar in hope, that it will stop the cracking sound . Some ****ty pictures. The bar needed a little modification (cuting it shorter and drilling new holes for clips). The clips go under shock assembly bolts.

Ok this has been going on actually for almost a year, but now it's getting kind of frustrating. So here it goes. Car will do a cracking sound from front of the dashboard when for example going into the corner. It looks like the body is deforming somehow and some piece will make a noise. Same happens when driving on uneven road. Also when the front door is opened fully by letting it hit the stopper. Sounds like some kind metallic/plastic mix sound. One thought is that the frame, that runs inside the dashboard, has some welding come loose and when it gets under pressure, it moves a little bit and makes the noise. Has anybody else encountered this and has any good advice? PS! For my own peace of mind, I have fitted a Audi S6 front strut bar on hope, that it will make something better, but still the sound occurs.

I think quicker will be, to remove the steering wheel, covers and clock spring and just check the part number. It will take about 45 minutes. You dont need to remove the indicator stalk assembly for this.

Pfff. 800 . I think you refer to, that we call, a sock. It allows the exhaust pipe to flex, when it needs to. This you can get from any muffler shop and any exhaust repair company will change it for you.

So here goes nothing. Quickly written and some bad pics http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/268780-how-to-change-indicator-stalk-on-superb-i-includes-removing-of-steering-wheel/ I will write some more to that post, when I get the old indicator stalk apart and make some pictures, how it looks like inside.

So referring to this thread ( http://www.briskoda....-noise-in-dash/ ) the main cause for clicking indicator relay is the indicator stalk itself. That's due the grease and dust buildup inside the stalk contacts and these give some electric contact to relay, causing it to click repeatedly. One quick solution is to (if you have a air compressor) blast some air into the column and straight to stalk assembly. If that doesn't work, then welcome to read my HOW TO. My stalk also had a problem, that the spring (that brings the stalk back to center) was busted and stalk didn't center itself anymore. So it was better to just buy the new stalk and replace it than figuring out what was wrong with the old one. Also the car is a daily car, so stopping it for day or 2 isn't a option. So let's start. 1. Whatever you do with electric works in car (especially with AIRBAGS!!!), disconnect the battery. Also drain the excessive power from the system by pressing few times the brake pedal. 2. Turn the steering wheel 90 degrees to right and find the hole behind it. Stick a little flat screwdriver in it and pull it upwards. It should release the clip inside the airbag, that holds it to steering wheel. Repeat on the other side. Carefully remove the plug connected back to the airbag and put the airbag to safe distance. 3. Remove the yellow plug connected to clock spring. 4. Find yourself a sized 12 12-tamper socket that fits into the steering wheel bolt. With a help from a friend (that holds the steering wheel) loose the bolt. It is possible to remove it yourself, if you will turn the wheels all to left and then use the steering rack to loose the bolt. 5. Check your steering wheel, that does it have the alignment marks. If not, then get yourself some chisel and tap a alignment groove inside the metal. 6. Remove steering wheel. 7. Now you need a long and slim + socket screwdriver. You need to remove the plastic covers 4x screws. 8. Remove the bolt that is connecting the lower plastic cover to steering column. It needs a nr 4 hex key. 9. Remove the 2x bolts from the steering column lever cover with nr 25 torx key. It's always good to put all screws and bolts to one place, instead leaving these laying on the ground somewhere... 10. Now lift the upper plastic cover up and away from the steering column. 11. Lower the lower plastic cover and then wiggle it out to right. It needs to clear the ignition ring. VERY IMPORTANT!!! Put some tape on the clock spring to prevent it turning around. It needs to be where it was, when you took away the steering wheel. 12. Remove the yellow airbag plug by unclipping the safety plug cover and then pulling the plug out. 13. Remove the black accessories plug. 14. Now we need to remove the clock spring. It is held with 4 clips that needs to be unclipped. On the picture 1 it is shown how the looks like and picture 2 shows the locations of 4 clips. Clock spring removed. 15. Next look on top of the indicator stalk holder. There is a nr 4 hex key bolt, that needs to be loosened (not needed to remove the bolt). 16. Now comes a little hard part. You need to remove 4 plugs from the indicator stalk and wiper stalk. Left ones - big purple one is just pull out type. Very good help would be from a little flat screwdriver, that could be used to wiggle the plug out. Other plug is a black plug and is inserted from up to down. So you need to pull the plug up (it has a clip that needs to be pressed, when pulling). Right ones - big plug is just pull out type. Smaller one has to clips on sides that needs a little help from our friend mr. flathead screwdriver. All the plugs. Indicator and wiper stalk assembly removed (just comes out by pulling it towards you. 17. Now separating the wiper stalk from indicator stalk. Wiper stalk has a little clip, that you can see from the inside of the ring (picture 1). That need to be pressed inside, when removing wiper stalk assembly from indicator stalk assembly. They are connected by 2 grooves. So that's it. Putting all that together is just backwards of this how to. Clip in the new indicator stalk to wiper stalk. Put it place, connect the plugs. Secure it with black bolt, install clock spring and it's plugs. Remove tape, install covers, install steering wheel (watch out for the alignment marks) and bolt it in. Install plug to clock spring and then airbag plug. Put the airbag back to it's position.

They should tell you, when you provide them with a VIN number. Do you have cruise control buttons on the steering wheel? If yes, then I should be 3U0953513C, because I am holding it in my hands right now. Actually I am holding the old unit, that I removed from my car 3 hours ago. New one got in with comfort blinker (blinks turn signals 3 times after pressed). Took about 2,5h to complete (that's with removing old unit, installing comfort blinker, installing new unit, putting all back together and making pictures of the progress off course). So be prepared, will write a DIY some day this week for this.

Share some pics about this also.

I bet these are just regular LED-s that sit inside that. Probably if you want to get them from dealer, you need to get it with all the plastic part also . So just dismantle it, look for LED, go to nearby electronics shop and just buy new one. Also while doing it, you could write a DIY guide for else (I think there is no DIY for this).

It looks like you have a faulty bulb somewhere. It should clear itself, when all the bulbs are OK. Check also rear lights.

Well, it's better to look at the boot. Then you can see cracks/holes in there. Also if the crack is large, there should be some lubricant around the CV also, because the centrifugal force will throw the lube around.