KTP

i have this same issue. i've replaced the temp sensor, control module and also fuse box on the battery as my old one was in poor condition to no avail. might it be a fault fan switch? i'm kinda thinking thats next on the list, no fault codes are coming up when scanned.

you say you were doing 8k miles a year. it would have to go up significantly to be worth changing to diesel. i run my vrs daily and do about 25k a year, varies with work but not sure even that mileage would benefit from being diesel v the cost of fuel. i wouldnt change fuel system, but thats me,

if the handle has been removed it may not have been fitted again correctly. loosen the torx on the edge of the door, pull the lock out. unclip the cable from the handle which is just a case of prying off the tab on the side. pull the handle out, refit but make sure it grabbing the plastic clip you can see with the handle out, sometimes when refitting it can be tricky to get it right in there but you'll see what i mean when it is out. once its placed properly in that clip, just push the cable tab into the handle without putting tension on it and put it all back together. the amount of times i've removed handles and had them not sitting flush when reinstalling simply because i havent made sure it has clipped back in place is ridiculous. its a simple setup but if not clipped in, it wont sit flush

Ok, so my new map sensor arrived today, the supplier i bought from said Bosch had superceeded the part number and it would be the new one i would be sent out. the middle part is a lot smaller and doesn't fit snugly into the adaptor plate, its from a Forge FMIC so i was a bit worried about that as it surely wont be sealed correctly. i've had a quick look bit cant seem to find anything that would fit into this to allow for a smaller sensor. regardless, i fitted it, cleared the fault codes from the car and ran it, now no codes showing and seems to be driving as it should again so i'm pretty happy with the end result.

should it not be the black cable that charges it, thats the one that connects to the battery. check the fusebox on top of the battery. i had to change my cable over christmas as mine was pretty fried at the fusebox end and not charging. changing the cable was a pain due to access but doable.

fitted new fuel filter, was hoping for great things but unfortunately not. have cleared all the fault codes with vag-com and while still plugged in it just flags up the map sensor fault 16621/P0237/000567 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31): Signal too Low i'm hoping all the other issues are clear but will plug it back in tomorrow once its had a good run and see if any of the other codes come back

no damage that i'm aware of but i'll investigate it further before i order a sensor, i did look at my current fuel filter though and it looks like its been fitted for a very long time, its not original as its got a different clamp on but it certainly looks old enough. guess they get really weathered in that position though

i scanned my car today and these are the codes i have: 16621/P0237/000567 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31): Signal too Low 16490/P0106/000262 - Manifold / Barometric Pressure Sensor (G71) / (F96): Implausible Signal 17743/P1335 - Engine Torque Monitor 2: Control Limit Exceeded 16486/P0102/000258 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF/G70): Signal too Low 17704/P1296/004758 - Error in Mapped Cooling System so its either the map sensor or a split pipe although leaning towards map sensor. i think the control limit exceeded is related to my fuel filter, new one arrived today but not had a chance to fit it yet. maf sensor has just been replaced so this may be an old fault code, or maybe it doesnt like the new one either as its not oem. replaced the coolant sensor but still need to do the thermostat also.

i know the thermostat is needing replaced as i had it plugged into skoda's diagnostics last year and this was one thing that came up. the technician said they were a pain to change so i haven't bothered to do it as it didnt really give me any issues. the coolant sensor, i might change this anyway as they aren't all that expensive. would rule it out and i think it does act like its cold anytime i start the car so wouldnt do any harm, i should also just do the thermostat and be done with it. the car is pretty much as it was when i bought it, its had a lot done to it, so all i've done is fit the forge fmic (approx 12months ago). i'm not sure what plugs are in the car and same with the spring in the dv, theres other springs in a little bag in the boot and since a green one is in there, i can maybe assume it has the yellow one fitted. my other vrs also has a forge dv that i fitted so i could remove that and try replace it or the spring to see i guess. i've had the car for over a year now, aside from the 1/4 tank issue its been a good car to me, its always ran great apart from an issue with the alternator to battery cable which i had to swap over at christmas. i've kept the oil topped up but i haven't given it a proper service, i'm bad for that actually... i found another thread where a guy had a similar sounding issue and it seemed to be a number of things, some of the hoses that are known to split, maf and his fuel filter seemed to be blocked. my car doesnt appear to have the troublesome pipes fitted (its had a few things removed, i assume these pipes included), all the pipes i can see look fine. i've swapped the maf already so for the cost of a fuel filter, i'll do that asap. maybe it will fix it, maybe not but either way a new filter isn't a bad idea.

no pressure or smoke test has been done. car is remapped, has a forge dv, coilpacks came out my other vrs and are fine, maf is new but not oem. temp is around 70 all the time, needs a new thermostat

Looking for some help, have searched various things but not managed to get anything that seems the same although i'm sure theres probably a topic in here i havent found. so my car seems to have an issue. when accelerating hard it bogs down badly and makes the exhaust pop on gear change. sometimes this also causes the car to go into limp mode, the epc light comes on and i have to stop and restart the car. if i try rev it high and fast it sounds like its misfiring but any other time it sounds totally fine. i've swapped out all the coil packs and also maf sensor and nothing has changed. if i take it very easily, it seems fine but it just doesnt want to accelerate quickly, so this is awkward for moving out a junction etc. no dashboard lights are on, i did have the eml on but with the new maf thats now went off. asked a friend to use his vagcom to see what if any codes come up but havent had that yet.

thanks, it happened 2 months ago and i put towels down until it dried up, thought the measured i'd taken had helped but evidently not. will have another go at the drain pipes and see if i can do anything further. i park facing downhill so it must be the front exits, might just try reversing in for the time being

lately my drivers side footwells have been getting flooded. floor by ktp_2002, on Flickr i done a search and most people seem to have issues with the passenger side so seems a trickier thing to find the cause. i've removed the scuttle panel and cleared a lot of crap from near the drain point on the drivers side. i poured water in around the sunroof and the drains work although maybe not the quickest of draining. i dont know how best to clean them out to see if thats the fault, i have noticed the roof liner is very wet just at the top of the A pilar interior trim, nowhere else seems to be wet so i'm thinking it must be getting in through the sunroof somehow, passenger side is completely dry but the drivers side is getting flooded. any tips etc?

did you get it fixed? i have the exact same issue on one of mine, i just keep it above 1/4 tank and its fine.

No, i took that off and cleaned it but made no difference, runs worse with it unplugged also so i think i've ruled the MAF out.

have some issues with my Octy, its a vRS and fairly recently had an issue with a coilpack, i was heading to Southampton from Edinburgh when one of the packs packed in about 100 miles from southampton, so i had to drive back home running on 3 cylinders basically. i had just picked up another RS so the injured one got left in my drive for a few weeks unused. i replaced the coilpack and it was back to running on 4 cyl and i thought my problems were solved. however, at the moment it's horrendous on fuel, i'm getting 22mpg on motorway runs and closer to 15mpg around town and it has a severe lack of power, i can feel the turbo spooling up but the car is extremely hesitant, i've checked all the pipes and cant see anything wrong with them, i did however replace two pipes on return from southampton as i noticed that a couple of them had burst, seem to be the common ones at the top of the engine. in an effort to rule things out, i've started swapping parts from one car to the other, swapped all coilpacks from my good car as i know its running sweet thinking maybe one of the other coils was on its way out but didnt make any difference. the car feels ok at low revs, no misfires, just when you put the foot down a whole lot of nothing happens and you can sometimes hear the turbo building up then it dumps without lifting the throttle. anyone experienced this? i've tried searching for all sorts of problems but unsure what to do. have thougth about swapping N75 valve from the other car incase its that as i've read that can give some hesitation issues but havent seen anything about it having such a drastic effect on the mpg.

i would say no. it isn't listed for an AUQ and also they look different. i just replaced those pipes in one of my vrs' and were pretty cheap, i didnt go for silicon though, just regular replacements.

going to bump this old post. whats the best way of going for more power these days, K03S Hybrid? i dont have a blank chequebook so its about bang for buck as i'd also need to consider the supporting mods, FMIC, probably a turbo back exhaust, injectors and another remap. i think i have the other mods already, still learning about my new car, previous owner seemed a bit 'optimistic/clueless' on specifics although the car does have history of owners from this forum but no build thread that i could find.

i've got Forge ones on both my cars, one i fitted was a 007P and think the other car has the same but it seems a bit quieter.

whats the best exhaust set up to put on the vrs? as in size of pipe, decat or no decat, just a rear box etc. thinking of getting one made, i dont care if its loud or not i just want what would be the ideal system. currently the car has no real mod's other than air intake and a forge dv. i might consider fmic and a remap but will likely keep standard turbo for now.

that looks really good man

strange issue and not had any luck with a google. sometimes, my throttle cuts out when going round a left hand bend, usually if pushing hard although its happened under various driving styles. doesn't happen a lot, just every now and again, never round a right hand bend it always a left, exiting a roundabout for example. lifting off the accelerator and repressing cures it, but if i was going very hard it could be very unsettling for the car and its annoying as hell. anyone have a clue what this could be or how to solve it? no warning lights or anything like that, its just as if i had taken my foot off the accelerator so maybe a sensor of sorts?

Anthracite would have been nice. i'm considering doing my car this colour: going to try the roof and perhaps mirrors to start with and see how i feel.