idleness
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Posts posted by idleness
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https://www.specialisedcovers.com/car-covers-range
Will make one that actually fits the car properly.
The caravan one I have fits the caravan perfectly.
Not cheap but you get what you pay for.
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It's a VW but principle is the same
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Adblue
in Skoda Yeti
To be honest no idea I just do it until it stops flowing.
One other thought I think you should refill fully and not just part fill it hence why I do it until it stops flowing from the small bottle.
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Adblue
in Skoda Yeti
One or two other thoughts
Always refill adblue when the car is horizontal don't do it parked on a hill.
When the adblue is full turn the ignition on do NOT start the engine, leave for about a minute then switch off. This sets the level in the ECU. Well that's what I've been told
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Adblue
in Skoda Yeti
I just top mine up as and when normally about 2-2500.
I have a 10 liter container in the garage and use the 1.8 liter bottle to fill the tank refilling it as necessary from the 10L container until the adblue stops flowing out and that's it.
Whether that's correct or not NFI but I've been doing it like that for 12 months.
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Adblue
in Skoda Yeti
Normally do mine when it's down to a couple of thousand left so every 2500 miles or so.
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Adblue
in Skoda Yeti
56 minutes ago, Urrell said:This is the cheapest way of spillproof filling.
You Just need the smaller bottle then decant from larger container into it.
That is exactly what I do.
Cheapest 1.8L bottle was from Toyota on eBay
I lied it's £1 cheaper on Amazon
then just fill as needed
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There are a few under £12k on Autotrader these two as starters
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202312124762040?
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202401235826307?
As said earlier you may have to travel.
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DSG costs 😱
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Are you after petrol or diesel?
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3 hours ago, Prezafab said:
SEL doesn't have sat nav (my other half wants it, regardless of Smartlink)
My SEL Drive does as does my friends.
Neither of us use it cos it's crap
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Petrol Yeti prices seem to be easing
There are now four 2017 SEL drives on autotrader for £11k or under.
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7 minutes ago, Stubod said:
The problem is now compounded by the very silly prices being asked for these cars, the youngest of which will now be 7 years old!!.
Mine is coming up to it's sixth birthday next Monday.
Registered on 19th Feb 2018 😎
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33 minutes ago, Prezafab said:
That's exactly what we've been looking for until now as well - SEL drive. Have avoided L&K until I saw one that 'looked good'. I think the previous poster has made me see sense...
You might need to travel for one, ours was 275 miles away from home took us two days to collect it 🤔
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2 minutes ago, TruckbusUK said:
I understand the fears, re the pano roof, but they dont all leak ... ours is seven and a half years young, and we have never had any problems with the roof and its kept outside in all weathers, best to take a careful look ... plenty of threads detailing the tell tale signs and obviously they are the ones to avoid, IMO they are stunning cars and the L&K spec is spot-on for us.
Just an opinion from a fault free owner 🙂
What is it they say, when people say ours is fine?
Time for a failure?
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Can't think of anything the L&K spec has over my SE L Drive apart from the panoramic roof and possibly electric memory seats.
I just went for the latest, best specced car that didn't have a sunroof.
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On 08/02/2024 at 15:11, Prezafab said:
... A 2018 registered Yeti is a bit rare !
One of the last😉
First registered 19th Feb 2018 only two actual owners, log book says 3 but first one was only 3 weeks so suspect the dealer. Was built mid 2017 so don't know where it went in between.
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I've seen the odd mention of Ad-Blue heaters and level control not registering when topping up but that's about it.
The latter is usually when it's absolutely empty with only a few miles left.
Having owned both starting at a similar milage (90k) the 150 is a much nicer car.
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What happens is that often the bolts are done up too tight, they should only be just over finger tight 7nm.
If they are too tight the threads don't strip, the threaded insert in the roof rail starts to spin rendering it useless.
I have done two swaps but am not doing it again.
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Any adjustments will have to be done in conjunction with VCDS or similar, otherwise the headlights go into safe mode over to the left and down.
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13 hours ago, red2 said:
don't like the idea of taking the car to the garage for an oil change and not having a clue what actual oil they are putting in, when they use vague descriptions like "5W30 full synthetic", with no way of checking whether they are using the correct VW spec. oil.
When I bought this yeti it had just been serviced I asked which oil and the garage told me it was Millars C2. I drove straight home and got the Pela out and swapped the oil for VW507.
Took a couple of minutes job sorted.
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To avoid having to do the sump plug get a PELA 6000 and extract the oil through the dipstick. Simple, easy and no mess.
A fair few garages do it in a similar way.
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I wouldn't trust my local Skoda dealer further that i could throw it.
I use an independent just across the road from them
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47 minutes ago, Schtum said:
I see a mountain being made from a molehill. I found this to be very straightforward. I purchased a set of Mk5 Golf GTI / GT Sport 170 TDI caliper carriers and a set of 312mm discs and some new pads.
Initially I fitted EBC Spotties and Greenstuff pads. Unfortunately, they only lasted 12k miles, no doubt because I'm the last of the late brakers and probably because I've set XDS to 'Hard".
The car now has drilled Brembo discs and their HP pads on the front. I've just fitted Pagid discs and pads on the rear and that has also helped with pedal feel and stopping power.
My 140 was as simple as that.
Is yours a 150?
Diesel particulate filter
in Skoda Yeti
Posted
I monitor what my dpf is doing with VAGDPF on my phone. If the dpf gets too full then I can force a regen same as the dealers using Carista. It's normally fine and regens about every 450 miles.
The old Yeti (remapped 140) was lucky to make over 100 miles between regens and needed a lot more work to keep it healthy