Nolhott
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Posts posted by Nolhott
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9 hours ago, Mrcraigcharlton said:
We picked ours up on Sat to replace an Up GTI. Love it and it’s hilarious if you put your foot down at the lights - really surprises other drivers with its speed pick up. I have been unable to get Skoda Connect to activate yet though - error attached, my Kodiaq vRS activated without issue. Any tips on that front? Here’s my wife picking it up.
Nice! Exactly the same colour combination I have on my Citigo. Good luck with it.
Regarding the Skoda connect app, it connected to my car the first time i tried and has been working eversince. However, the dealer from which I bought my Citigo didn't manage to connect their demo for some reason. If it works or not seems to be different from one case to another. There is also an app called "Move & Fun" that should be used to connect the phone to the car via Bluetooth but it isn't available yet it seems. However, the e-UP! equivalent called "Maps + more" works also with the Citigo so you can just as well use that meanwhile.
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52 minutes ago, Roottootemblowinootsoot said:
That being the case then the WLTP should be done on 80% charged vehicles.
No point giving ranges that are 'maybe at best achieved' on a 100% charge, when you are going to be setting off on a 80% charge.
Those leasing cars might no bother their back end about battery life.
That is a worry for future owners down the line.
When i had LPG vehicles then yes the tank was filled to 80% capacity only. That was how it works.
On my electric bikes the Batteries get put to 100% charge. Only occasionally are they ever down to only 7% energy left.
Life is for living in the moment. If the £750 batteries lives are shortened so be it.
A car sitting at your home or where ever with 80% charge is fair enough as long as you are in a position to put the full charge in if needs must
and without much notice you have a trip to head off on that will require stops to charge and before you set off you can get some charging time in.
With EV's that are limited in range off a full charge anyway that is a PITA though.
Well, the 100% to 0% capacity is there, isn't it. The WLTP figures doesn't take life span of the battery in to consideration as far as I know. I just pointed to some facts that affect the life span of li-ion batteries and if you normally run 100% down to 60% on your daily commute it's better for your battery to run 80% down to 40%. If you lease the car, probably you don't have to take any of this in to consideration, but I own my car and intend to use it for at least 10 years if possible, so for me it's a different situation. I will also charge it to 100% when I need the range but on daily basis 80% to 20% is more than adequate for 2-3 days of use. I just wanted to point out that if you don't need the full range between charges there are benefits of not charging it to 100%
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On 14/03/2020 at 00:39, Chris_42 said:
@Emil It kicks in as soon as you lift your foot from the accelerator. I've hardly needed the brake pedal so far — very occasionally for the last couple of feet before completely stopping. I'm now using B-mode at traffic lights all the time: the brake lights come on and once you get a feel for it, you know exactly where you'll end up.
The only time it doesn't work is when you're driving on a completely full battery, as there's nowhere for the recuperated energy to go (or so I'm led to believe).
You shouldn't charge it up to full anyway 😉 . There is a consensus amongst the battery experts that you shouldn't recharge the battery to 100%, and not completely drain it, for a longer life span. I know that VW allready have taken precautions by only letting 32Ah of 36Ah be available but that is probably anyway a compromise between performance and longevity. A li-ion have the longest life span if it can be "half charged" all the time. I try to avoid charging over 80% indicated and running below 20%. If you need the full capacity (100%) you should plan charging so you drive away a.s.a.p after a full charge. And if you are not going to use your car for a period of time, dont let the car sit with fully charged batteries. Empty is not good either. Ideal for storage is between 60 and 70% charge but probably anywere between 20 and 80% is fine in most cases.
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3 hours ago, Chris_42 said:
Is yours an SE or SEL?
I'm picking up my SEL sometime during the next fortnight and I would have thought that luggage compartment lighting was standard across the range.
Check out 1:17 into this review, which clearly shows it.
It's the equivalent to the SEL with the Privacy glass, Variable boot floor and Winter pack. The only options we have here in Sweden is metallic colours.
You are probably right about the boot light. I'ts hidden quite well and not very bright so propably when it's really dark you see it. I'll check tonight.
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On 28/02/2020 at 23:23, Ronn said:
If you want one, go buy one.
Just leave us alone to drive the 'proper' cars...
I just did.
Collected my Citigo e iV last Friday. Candy White with black ceiling and black rear view mirrors. Has driven it approx. 95 miles and is very happy with it so far. Here's a small list of my impressions so far.
Pros:
Feel- and are much faster than the old Citigo we have. (except for top speed though)
Extremely easy to drive in all situations.
Very quiet.
Spacious in the front seat. Don't feel like a small car when you drive it.
Relatively good range, even in winter. The drive home from the car dealer was 42 miles and it took exactly 1/4 "tank".
Electric heated front window.
Rain sensor. (The old Citigon didn't even have adjustable interval mode)
Cruise control.
ACC. (Only AC in old Citigo)
Relatively good full- and dipped beam. (Halogen though)
Double floor in the luggage compartment. You can get a completely flat floor when folding the back seat.
Cons:
"Lane assist" instead of auto brake. Would much rather have had auto brake.
Apps that work poorly. Skoda connect is available but works so so. "move and fun" does not yet exist but will come this week. Remains to be seen.
Compact rear seat. But it's probably no worse than others on the market of the same size and no worse than our old Citigo.
No interior lighting in the rear seat.
No lighting in the boot.
What I miss most:
Electric heated steering wheel would have been nice to have.
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12 hours ago, Ronn said:
Your Citigo EV is considerably cheaper than they are in UK.
I believe the EV version in UK is £20,000+
Thats including the Gov discount.. ...
Our goverment grant is £4800 so that add to the difference in price. But still it's cheaper here in Sweden since without the grant the price here right now is £20 000 and the same model with the same equipment in UK is around £22 000. But official price according to the price list is also £22 000 here in Sweden, so pricelevel is more or less equal.
This one is actually replacing a 2014 Citigo we currently have and if we would have replaced that with a new petrol version (UP! Tsi) that would have been something like £10 400, so 50% price increase for the electrical version is reasonable I think. The closest competitor here in Sweden is around £24 000 with the goverment grant. Shure you'll get a bigger car with more range for the money and perhaps even more value for money, but the simple fact that so much cheaper than the nearest competitor will make it available for people that simply can't put up £24 000 for a car so I think that at least here in Sweden it will sell fairly well. Only time will tell though.
12 hours ago, Chris_42 said:Mine will be Tungsten silver with black roof. I've been quoted delivery sometime in March, but that was before they placed the order so I hope it doesn't drag on until the summer...
I think they have different quotas for different countries so it might be so that deliverytimes in UK is much shorter than here in Sweden. Hope you don't have to wait longer than expected for your car.
4 hours ago, Emil said:I tried Mii Electric the other day. Very nice and fast it was. And as I was expecting it was quiet too. No engine sound or vibration. It felt like road noise was lower too. Now I just have to wait my own Mii Electric to arrive.
Style does not look old to me. I like it.
I actually think the Mii look a little bit better than the Citigo but due to a campaign Skoda have here in Sweden right now the Mii is £1500 more expensive than the Citigo with comparable equipment so that why the Skoda. Another thing i also like with the Mii is that it clearly states that it's an electric car with stickers on both sides and at the rear. No one will know that the the Citigo I drive is electric. Good luck with your Mii electric.
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Just ordered mine today. A candy white with Style trim, which here in Sweden is equivalent to UK:s SEL trim with all possible options. The only option available here in Sweden is metallic colour. Total cost incl. government grant is approximately £15200 (190000 SEK).
Pricing is strange though. For instance, here in Sweden all solid coatings are without additional charge, including the ones with black roof. In UK there is an additional charge of £540 for solid coatings, except for red, even if you choose the SEL trim. And if you want black roof there are an additional £300 for that.
I chose candy white because it was manufactured last week, so I will have it in mid February. If I had chosen the colour I really wanted, yellow with black roof, I probably had to wait until well into summer before delivery.
And, by the way, I do this solely for environmental reasons, not to save money.
My first electric car so it´s gonna be really interesting this .....
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Well, Kate Bush (I'm also a fan of hers) is not the first to sing about Yetis. Take a look at this Swedish band called KENT that made a song called Max 500 (wery good song in my opinion) a couple of years ago were they mention "runs a Yeti track" (english translation) about 54 seconds into the song.
Take a look here
/Stephan
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Thanks for the answers guys!
Great Yeti, thanks for the link to the thread about your own experience. It seems very similar to mine. The only difference is that in my case the surging and tick over is very consistent. I can be dead sure that if I have had my car parked all day at the office and the outside temperature is between 15 and 20 degrees centigrade outside, it will behave like this when starting. This morning when it was only 13 degrees, the engine ran normally from start.
On the other hand it might have been consistent also in your case but the right conditions only appeared twice so you couldn’t see any pattern.
Since my Yeti also has the DSG there is a good chance that the software upgrade you had also applies to my car even though mine is a MY 2010.
I probably have try to contact Skoda Cz directly to be able to get a straight answer since the tech’s here at the local skoda dealerships are completely incompetent, except when it comes to lying to the customer and finding bad excuses.
I’ll update this thread when I manage to find some more information.
/Stephan
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Hi everyone.
I have been searching the Briskoda forums to see if someone has faced the same “phenomena†as I have with my Skoda Yeti 1.2 TSi, but haven’t found any with the same or similar problems.
“Problem†description:
Normally when I cold- or warm start my car, the motor momentarily revs up to approx 2000 rpm for a second or two and the quickly settles at around 800 rpm. This behaviour is consistent regardless of outside temperature. Almost. So even with temperatures as low as -20 degrees centigrade the behaviour is the same as described above.
The exception is that with an outside temperature (engine temperature) of +15-20 degrees centigrade the behaviour changes. Then, for some reason, the rpm settles on 1200 rpm instead and on top of this the engine runs badly, somewhat like it’s only running on 3 cylinders. And standing outside the car it sounds really bad. Warmer than that, the engine behaves normally.
This goes on for almost one minute and then the rpm drops to the normal 800 rpm idling. This behaviour is also consistent within this temperature span and from time to time. I think that it’s actually the motor temperature and not the ambient temperature that triggers this behaviour since it has occurred also in colder ambient temperatures when the car has been parked long enough for the engine to cool down but not reaching ambient temperature, or when running the car for a very short time, then stopping the car and then starting it again after a short while.
What has made me concerned about it is that when I check the Maxidot for fuel consumption. The normal consumption is approx. 1.2 l/h with cold, just started engine, when idling, and 0.6 - 0.8 l/h with fully warm engine. But when this “mode†kicks in, the Maxidot indicates a fuel consumption of 3.5 l/h! That’s almost three times as much as compare to a “normal†cold start idling. What happens with all that extra petrol that is injected in to the cylinders (if the Maxidot readout is correct, that is)? And clearly, all that petrol can’t be needed to keep the revs at 1200 rpm instead of 800, can it?
From what I have heard excessive amounts of un-burnt fuel can damage the catalytic converter.
I have been in contact with the authorized dealer for Skoda here in Gothenburg and got one stupid explanation after another for this behaviour. First explanation was that the engine behaved in this way to warm up quicker. When I wasn’t satisfied with that they tried “the engine must burn away residue fuel in the system and is then behaving in this wayâ€. Then I gave up trying to get anything sensible out of them.
So, is this a normal behaviour of the 1.2 TSi or not? If so, whats the purpose? If not, what could be wrong?
BR
Stephan
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I have received an answer from Skoda Sweden regarding the improved sound insulation of the Yeti and the Superb. Here is the English translation of that.
"Hi,
Thanks for your email dated 2011-02-10.
The Skoda Superb and Skoda Yeti has indeed been improved regarding the interior acoustic characteristics, this due to the continuous development of the car. This improvement is valid from January 2011 for the Superb and February 2011 for the Yeti and can´t be applied to existing cars.
These improvements are not described in detail by the manufacturer in Czech Republic as this is an action that falls within the framework of continuous development of car models. Skoda had obviously developed a retrofit kit for sound insulation if it had had a positive effect on interior noise of existing cars.
As far as we understand it's cars for the Nordic / Scandinavian that will get this improvement first and other markets will follow as soon as possible.
Yours sincerely
Sami
Skoda Sweden
Customer Service"
/Stephan
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Does anyone know if the clutch footrest is easily removable? I do like to stretch out my left leg on long journeys ,and there isn't room enough to do that under ,or around the clutch pedal.
Yet(i)
another reason for choosing the DSG instead of the manual. I have plenty of room between the footrest and the breaking pedal to stretch my leg. Of course, I have the left hand drive version, might be different on a right hand drive version.Sorry, no answer to your question though regarding the removal of the foot rest, but of course it's possible, one way or the other....
Good luck.
/Stephan
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Had a look in the parts book, nothing showing in the sound damping section for either the Yeti or Superb. Last Change to the Yeti was August 2010, although the Superb is showing a possible update due in March this year.
Hope that's of help,
TP
Thanks TP. Could it be only for the Swedish (Scandinavian) market since we are driving around all winter with noisy winter tyres? (often spiked, and yes, winter tyres are mandatory here in Sweden winterime). Would you also see that in the parts book, even if it's only for a few markets?
The strange thing is that on the Skoda Club of Sweden´s forum they are discussing it as if it's a shure thing. I´ll check with the Skoda Sweden if they can confirm it.
/Stephan
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There is information on a Swedish Skoda forum that states that the sound insulation has been improved on the Yeti starting from first weeks production this year. The information claims that it will be improved even further from this week on. The information comes from several dealers here.
Is it true? Does anyone here knows anything more about this? (The Plumber?).
/Stephan
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I think a 40+ cm added to the rear of the Yeti would totally destroy the looks of it. I like the "chubbyness" of the yeti and that would be gone by adding 40 cm to it. 15-20 cm might be OK perhaps, but not 40! :wonder:
/Stephan
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My 1.4 TSi DSG Octavia Elegance has standard fit paddleshifts - used initially for the novelty value, the tiptronic shifts via paddles or stick hardly ever get used. The fully automated mode is so good, it renders the sequential change modes almost redundant.
I fully agree, the tiptronic is almost redundant. It's not even needed for steep dowhill driving since the DSG automatically sense that and downshifts to lower gears in order to prevent overheating the breaks. I'm only using the tiptronic sometimes when going really slow in order to spare 2:nd gear clutch since the DSG switch to second gear very quickly after pulling away and tends to prefer to slip the clutch instead of switching down to 1:st gear again when slowing down. It's only when coming to a full stop that 1:st gear will be engaged again. (this in D mode, haven't tried this in S mode)
/Stephan.
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So Skoda build a 4x4 and 61% of UK Yeti are 2WD; Hmm. :wonder:
I would have thought that the take up would/should be higher. Perhaps it shows that 4x4 isn't really needed?
For me though; I specifically bought the 4x4 for on road traction on a 'quattro' basis, as I was fed up with loosing traction on my Octavia vRS TDI having FWD only.
Still a very nice car though, also with only the 2WD.
But even more so with 4x4 of course. /Stephan
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Yes - my Octavia 1.8TSI L&K (sold recently for a Yeti) had a 7 speed dry clutch DSG and I ordered the paddles as an extra. Very nice but rarely used.
Did you experience the same delay between hitting the paddle and the actual gear change, that I am using the stick?
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In markets such as the Alpine countries or Scandinavia, the percentages are even higher".
Well, my guess is that for Sweden the figures are reversed. So I'm a part of the minority here driving a 4x2 Yeti ... (never saw the need for a 4x4 since the roads are quite well cleared from snow here and I can't motivate the aditional cost and weight for something that could be useful having maximum once or twice a year)
/Stephan
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Alas no paddles. Only the Superb has them. You just move the gearlever to the left from D and then there is a + and - there for manual control.
Perhaps a little OT but ...
Is the 7-gear dry cluch DSG available with paddles in other models through out the VAG range?
I found that while driving my Yeti 1.2 DSG in manual mode (tiptronic) there is a 1s (or even more) delay from the stick input until the gear change actually happens. And it doesn't seem to matter if I go up or down in gear. I understand that if the DSG has prepared for what it thinks will be the next gear and you give an input for another gear it will take som time for the DSG to get that gear in position, but the delay seems always to be there. If it's as slow using paddles, it wouldn't be much fun to drive in manual mode I think.
Anyone else that can confirm this behaviour of the 7-gear DSG? Does the 6-gear DSG behave in the same way?
/Stephan
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Regarding James car I like the spec but only thing I'm not sure about is the DSG. I do like the idea of it but the around town figures are about 10mpg less according
to the specs on Allams website.....is this a mis-print? Thought the DSG made acceleration/mpg better?
It does ! See this thread and post for what I mean by saying that the DSG is more economical. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/156147-12-tsi-real-mpg/page__view__findpost__p__2256564
According to the specs the DSG is only 0.2 seconds slower in the 0-62 mph sprint but that probably requires very quick and harsh gear changes from the driver of the manual version to accomplish that figure, perhaps even gearchanges in a way that you wouldn't like to threat your gear box. The DSG change to next gear in 8 ms (up) as standard ( down shift are considerably slower but probably faster than the average driver with the manual any way).
So, I would say that for the average driver in every day driving the DSG is both quicker and has a higher mpg than the manual.
I'm quite sure you would be very happy with the performance of the DSG unless you are a "stickbanger" (hope I didn't say anything dirty now
)/Stephan
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Speed (km/h at different gears).
I calculated it by knowing the max speed 173,2 km/h at 4850 RPM measured during a test performed by the magazine "Al volante" and the ratios of the gears (from 1 to 6): 3,615 1,954 1,281 0,973 0,777 0,646.
In my opinion this table is very close to reality.
RPM I II III IV V VI
1500 12 21 32 43 54 64
1600 12 23 35 46 57 69
1700 13 24 37 48 61 73
1800 14 26 39 51 64 77
1900 15 27 41 54 68 82
2000 15 28 43 57 71 86
2100 16 30 45 60 75 90
2200 17 31 48 63 79 94
2300 18 33 50 66 82 99
2400 18 34 52 68 86 103
2500 19 36 54 71 89 107
2600 20 37 56 74 93 112
2700 21 38 58 77 96 116
2800 21 40 61 80 100 120
OK, thanks for that info. Seems that revs at 100 km/h is about 300 rpm higher in the manual version than the DSG in top gear then
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Hi!
70 Mph should be around 2600 RPM in 7th gear, well below 3000 anyway.
That figure seems a little bit high.
My Yeti 1.2 TSI with DSG gear box runs just above 2000 rpm at 100 km/h indicated speed (96 km/h "real speed" according to the GPS). A 70 mph indicated speed (112.65 km/h) should give just below 2300 rpm. (approx. 2360 rpm at real speed 70 mph). All in 7:th gear.
What´s the equivalent figures for the manual version of th 1.2 TSI? Some one who knows?
/Stephan
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So I therefore repeat my question. Do all pumps cut off at the same point? if not, then the amount you put in every time will be different, unless you use the same pump, very time.
Mike
Yes, it will be different every time. The question is, how much different?
The fuelling point on the car is connected with the tank by a rather narrow pipe. If we assume that the inside diameter of this pipe is 6 cm. Calculations yields than that this pipe has an inside volume of 0.28 litres/10cm length. The pump will cut off basically when the fuel level hits the tip of the nozzle. But the nozzle length may vary a little bit from one pump model to another and nozzle sensitivity may also vary. I think it´s safe to assume that the difference in level in the pipe after filling the tank will be within +/- 10 cm though. That means a maximum difference of approx. 0.5 litres. Lets then assume that you have driven long enough between the two tank stops so you will use 40 litres to fill up the tank. Then the maximum error due to this would be 0.5/40=1.25%. However, if you for some reason only have driven a shorter distance between the tank stops so you only use 5 litres to fill up the tank, then the error will be 0.5/5=10%. I.e. in order to get as accurate result as possible from this perspective, you should drive as far as possible between fuelling up.
Then on top of this we also have the inaccuracy of the odometer. I have no idea of what the basic inaccuracy of that would be (some one that knows?). Also tyre pressure, tyre wear and surface conditions may add to the inaccuracy of the mpg calculations.
/Stephan
another reason for choosing the DSG instead of the manual. I have plenty of room between the footrest and the breaking pedal to stretch my leg. Of course, I have the left hand drive version, might be different on a right hand drive version.
But even more so with 4x4 of course.
Citigo Electric
in Škoda Citigo
Posted
No radar. Only "normal" cruise control. Would have been nice otherwise to "park" close behind a big lorry in the slipstream on the freeway to extend range.