Agon

Hi , im sorry i couldn't record it because the phone doesn't catch the sound but car vibrates a lot when happens , my clutch comes with central slave cylinder so is that what we talking about ? and if yes what should I do get a new one ? Sorry i dont know much about these stuff . @KenONeill

parts were LuK replaced by a friend of mine in a local garage , i will try and record it tomorrow , Thank you

Having recently changed the DMF and clutch kit , it has started to make a noise when starting in cold like rattle or "bad belt" idk how to explain it , but goes away when i push the clutch pedal and it goes completely away after driving it for a little , reading in forums iv seen some stuff about a " Thrust bearing" , can somebody explain to me what is that and is it hard to change because as far as i remember that was not changed . Gearbox is 6speed manual

If i jack the car up ,untight the bolts then put the car in its own weight and tighten them again will that do the job ? Sorry for my bad english.

yes rear beam then , it was tighten while it was jacked up , not on the ground so maybe that added more pressure on them or something :/ hopefully is only the right side one , i will change it again as its still lubricated because it was a PIA to get out...

After changing my rear subframe bushes about a month ago(with stock lemforder ones) i noticed today that the right side bush has developed some cracks in the rubber as there were in the old bush , can anyone help me why this happened ?

Anyone ?

My car is a Octavia 1.9tdi asz code , since some months i had the terrible knock and "clunks" noises coming from the front , they started some times after i changed the front shocks , springs and top mounts . Decided to renew the front parts so yesterday i went to the dealer , track rods ends were in terrible condition so i replaced them both sides , also i replaced ball joints , wishbone bushes , arb drop links and rear subframe bushes(all Lemforder parts) and STILL i have some "clunks" noises in bad roads. The thing that bothers me is that when i changed the ARB bushes the new ones i bought were old design but the clamp in the car is for new design bushes , is that a problem ? or any idea what is causing this ? Thank you .

pads are almost 1 year old in close inspection i think rear discs are not in a good shape , what do you think

Last fluid change was 2-3 months ago , in a authorized vw dealer with pressure pump , brakes got a bit better after but sometimes they go soft sometimes not , vacuum system checked its ok , maybe a air bubble traped somewhere ? Didnt check the bushes is there a way to check or should be removed ?

It has ABS , but i notice difference when car is heavier in back the brake gets more spongy and doesnt use the force in front when car unloaded then its better :/ are the chances that this regulator may be fitted in abs cars too ?

i had much worse tyres before and didnt slip that way , tyres in good shape for the moment but before when i brake you could feel the brake power in front your whole body would go foward now its just like 50-50 , suspension is old too that why i asked maybe that is misleading the brake power regulator (if exist) because it has to do something with weight distribution i think

Hello all , does anyone know if Octavia 2003 130PD have a brake power regulator ? My brakes are very soft sometimes , sometimes they are good but if just slight brake applied in a turn the rear goes out of control , i think there is too much power in rear brakes I read that this may be one of the problems , if anyone have any info or its location Thank You

Can this switch do the opposite thing with the revs ? sometimes when i change gears my revs go down to 500-600 and then back to normal again , and where is located thanks

It may not have any connection with the battery at all , you said you got in a hole that may cause problems with any of abs sensors in the wheels , that happened to me so it may help you ,check with vcds .

Hmm im pretty sure i have those there but i was worried about the ones at the side the small black ones , it can't go off right ? it would be scary :p

can you show me a image if you have one how it look likes ? i will look in a scrap yard somewhere to find these little black rubber things they mount by glue or how ?

Well i got some images of both sides of hood base i think something missing in the left side http://i59.tinypic.com/2z8ah77.jpg http://i60.tinypic.com/vy62v6.jpg

I noticed in high speed the hood moves up and down very fast just like its gonna come off is that normal and what may cause it ?

I have the same problem one light was more powerful the other was rubbish so i pulled the plastic out and saw that the bulb was out of place and melted the base and now the bulb will go inside if i push it i cant even put a led light in because of melted plastic

is the 130PD supossed to have a CEL ? mine doesn't :P

yes they let the flap open as they said so the air will come always from outside so the recirc button will not work anymore temps are better now so the climate is working and everything is ok

4FA - the flap was stucked closed so i send to the dealer and he disconnected the mechanism so the flap will stay open until the weather gets a bit warmer as he said maybe it can not work because of very low temp ( that i don't belive ) there is no fog in the windows anymore (just a little) Thanks liverpool-lad and mbames for the help

climatronic , tried everything with it without success

Was very cold these days -17 the compresor is not coming on in these temps so im having serious problems with condensation , but its strange that when the car is not moving there is no fog in windows everything clear , but then when i drive it over 40km/h there is fog in windows and even ice so i could not open the windows. Is there any isolation problem , is cold getting in from somewhere ?