strongmanatforrestgym

superbs are cheap for many reasons. cheap bags of crap , not room if thats all your friends can say , its got room , then maybe they think buses are good too! as for making it to france to discus, i,d need to run that by my c/o, but he's a bit pushed for time trying to make A/stan a little safer, i'd need to meet you over there.

hi there if you are new to skodas then there will be lots of disappointment disco world proven mercs best cars anywhere skoda superb, lemon, so many issues and worthless old technology my best advise is to go back to mercs, i did just that and im very happy if you want to continue down this dead end road, then you could do as we did,made up four jacking chocs with the same profile machined into the chock to mirror the sill and jacking points, (probably the best part of that car). best regards

my car is playing up and with a bit more induction noise in the air box, i checked for split hoses and pipes but nowt, i have moved the turbo actuator rod up and down it seems ok , it happened today and went into limp mode, but dosent log a code on a maxi scanner, but turned the car off then on and the problem went away , for now. any ideas?? where is the map sensor , is this on the intercooler? where is the n75 what is the sensor on top of the large air trunking pipe next to the bulkhead? any ideas ? anyone got a vagcom in the crawley area in sussex lol wow such a response ! well the car is no longer used as i now own a mercedes s class REAL GERMAN ENGINEERING with a real engine and proper airmatic suspension,not the horse and cart junk and asthmatic engines that die of either oil pump failures or turbo giving up or water leaks or electronic unreliabilities excellent looks and bomb proof reliability, i must have had a senior moment to think this was a good second car, utter junk, old pre war rubbish,with a cr@p track record, skodas lemon alright, what was it that top gear said about skodas, 'they are for tight people who wont shell out for a real one', totally agree, now im laughing so much it hurts! think on when thinking of buying a new car, spend a bit more do your homework avoid junk like this like the plague otherwise it will come back and bite you,mine was a top spec late elegance with full history and mint condition and even on rotos advise 'dont buy one thats ever had water in it.....' well as everyone knows, its not if, but when it happens, it will happen to all of them, so on that advise you cant buy any of them! avoid like the plague now im off out for a drive in the ubber luxurious s classe, with the little three pointed star at the end of the bonnet telling me that ive done the right thing, knowing that when i put my foot down i will actually move away faster,much much faster without clouds of black junk, no hissing or wheezing, or terminal oil pump failures, or if i left it out in the rain it wouldnt try and soak up all the earths rain fall and rot out the car from the inside out,and then theres the looks, the ride quality,interior space, optional extras,the power,oh yeah when you go to a dealer they actually give a sh@t and care enough to fix the car and offer a courtesy car at no extra charge, and the parts department actually stock parts, the list goes on,im happy, the wifes happy, neighbors are envious, it doesn't get better when we go out we play a game to look for broken down skoda drivers, they are easy to find, we laugh and drive on by,bye bye

mine is doing the same and with a bit more induction noise in the air box, i checked for split hoses and pipes but nowt, i have moved the turbo actuator rod up and down it seems ok , it happened today and went into limp mode, but dosent log a code on a maxi scanner, but turned the car off then on and the problem went away , for now. any ideas?? where is the map sensor , is this on the intercooler? where is the n75 what is the sensor on top of the large air trunking pipe next to the bulkhead?

hi superbia no black smoke either! other than the large pipes to the air filter what else is there to look for? where is this n75 valve?? im going to interrogate the car latter to see if has logged any codes this time, but there wasnt anything yesterday if it were a petrol id say if felt like a blocked filter really tired of this car now and this is a good 130 mint elegance, god knows what levels of crapness these cars go to any help will be much appreciated put it on a scanner and no codes

i didnt know i had to? and this time its not got a fault code logged, so is this a new thread?

hi i posted a thread last week but no info replies yet but the car is messing about again, no fault codes just intermittent loss of power/boost any ideas

hi all as im getting used to this barge now as i occasionally drive it i thought i'd get back with the cv boot findings im ex merc and other things,but thats another story on a vito or v classe we always removed outer cvs and boots without removing the shaft, ( bonus system) so a while ago i asked the same question of the skoda outer cv, and was advised to remove entirely i know it isnt a french early style claw type cv requiring a trumpet, so i went ahead my way wheel ,hub nut,track rod end,brake carrier and caliper,lower rear ball joint all off and out of harms way cut off old boot hold shaft into gearbox and hold with large mole grips keep outer cv parallel and tap off (used a large mallet) 1 hit simple, it is just a matter of over coming the shafts c clip nothing else disturbed or unnecessarily taken off ....(if your on bonus) cleaned out and refitted with febi kits which are a very good quality hope it helps some one

well done techie this is pretty much the same as i posted with great pictures and idiot proof destructions, i think i posted mine to somebody rather than listing it on the site now i think about it again, good job

hi there i thought of the same thing but opted for a cure,by drilling the seal you dont stop water from getting in, you just divert it, until that hole gets blocked and you start again, the problem is the seal between the door and the removable panel that all the bits are bolted to inside, best remove and re seal for a permanent repair,it is the same smaller version of the pollen housing seal running around the metal panel,and we all know how good that is at keeping water out!) i had to do it to all my doors as once i knew i just couldnt leave it alone and didnt want any more water in the footwells! best regards and keep your feet dry! i posted a link a while back about this but im struggling to find it again, it was on the seat cupra site, this is a fault that affects all modern cars with this type of door inner frame aperture regardless of cost or marque , remove the card, then look down the length of the door with it nearly closed and you will see a perfect route in for mr water an misses headache, easy repair, and if your door cards have been off in the past to do a regulator or other work in the door then theres a very good chance this seal is now kerputten either way its life expectancy is minimal,remove and re seal with a good low modulus mastic and refit. let me know how you got on.

hi and thank you for a clear answer,are there many types of cables? and only a vagcom or vcds (mannyo) will do? this vag stuff is alien to a merc man ! any help and info is welcomed

where can i get the vagcom? i already use a maxi scan and i have a lead from obd to the computer usb connection can i download it from bit torrent? or can some one burn a copy for us? any info is appreciated

did they ever fit a rear dvd player and screen to the back of the drivers arm rest? or is there a kit that anyone knows of?

hello help the last time i drove this car it managed to do a massive 3 miles before it broke down and the starter motor went bandit and left me stranded so i repaired it and left it alone,well alone after that then i had the amusing idea of using it again LOL, mistake first was the brake warning check pad light on the fault was a broken terminal on the nsf caliper so the warning wire wasnt connected. it managed 400 miles this time , a considerable improvement on the first breakdown but its in speshal needs mode again ! it feels like limp mode but no lights on, no boost and slow to do any thing the tool im using is a maxi scan the fault codes are charge pressure control positive deviation : p 1557 17965 - 035 01/01 kwp1281 i done the usual brief checks, as was dark,cannot see any vac pipes split, then erased the code and drove a few yards and its still in limp mode has anyone had this issue and know of a remedy, is it a component or pipe work.... or.... is a 130 tdi a vnt turbo? charge presure control and n75 sonoid valve , where are they fitted regards