strongmanatforrestgym

superbs are cheap for many reasons. cheap bags of crap , not room if thats all your friends can say , its got room , then maybe they think buses are good too! as for making it to france to discus, i,d need to run that by my c/o, but he's a bit pushed for time trying to make A/stan a little safer, i'd need to meet you over there.

hi there if you are new to skodas then there will be lots of disappointment disco world proven mercs best cars anywhere skoda superb, lemon, so many issues and worthless old technology my best advise is to go back to mercs, i did just that and im very happy if you want to continue down this dead end road, then you could do as we did,made up four jacking chocs with the same profile machined into the chock to mirror the sill and jacking points, (probably the best part of that car). best regards

my car is playing up and with a bit more induction noise in the air box, i checked for split hoses and pipes but nowt, i have moved the turbo actuator rod up and down it seems ok , it happened today and went into limp mode, but dosent log a code on a maxi scanner, but turned the car off then on and the problem went away , for now. any ideas?? where is the map sensor , is this on the intercooler? where is the n75 what is the sensor on top of the large air trunking pipe next to the bulkhead? any ideas ? anyone got a vagcom in the crawley area in sussex lol wow such a response ! well the car is no longer used as i now own a mercedes s class REAL GERMAN ENGINEERING with a real engine and proper airmatic suspension,not the horse and cart junk and asthmatic engines that die of either oil pump failures or turbo giving up or water leaks or electronic unreliabilities excellent looks and bomb proof reliability, i must have had a senior moment to think this was a good second car, utter junk, old pre war rubbish,with a cr@p track record, skodas lemon alright, what was it that top gear said about skodas, 'they are for tight people who wont shell out for a real one', totally agree, now im laughing so much it hurts! think on when thinking of buying a new car, spend a bit more do your homework avoid junk like this like the plague otherwise it will come back and bite you,mine was a top spec late elegance with full history and mint condition and even on rotos advise 'dont buy one thats ever had water in it.....' well as everyone knows, its not if, but when it happens, it will happen to all of them, so on that advise you cant buy any of them! avoid like the plague now im off out for a drive in the ubber luxurious s classe, with the little three pointed star at the end of the bonnet telling me that ive done the right thing, knowing that when i put my foot down i will actually move away faster,much much faster without clouds of black junk, no hissing or wheezing, or terminal oil pump failures, or if i left it out in the rain it wouldnt try and soak up all the earths rain fall and rot out the car from the inside out,and then theres the looks, the ride quality,interior space, optional extras,the power,oh yeah when you go to a dealer they actually give a sh@t and care enough to fix the car and offer a courtesy car at no extra charge, and the parts department actually stock parts, the list goes on,im happy, the wifes happy, neighbors are envious, it doesn't get better when we go out we play a game to look for broken down skoda drivers, they are easy to find, we laugh and drive on by,bye bye

mine is doing the same and with a bit more induction noise in the air box, i checked for split hoses and pipes but nowt, i have moved the turbo actuator rod up and down it seems ok , it happened today and went into limp mode, but dosent log a code on a maxi scanner, but turned the car off then on and the problem went away , for now. any ideas?? where is the map sensor , is this on the intercooler? where is the n75 what is the sensor on top of the large air trunking pipe next to the bulkhead?

hi superbia no black smoke either! other than the large pipes to the air filter what else is there to look for? where is this n75 valve?? im going to interrogate the car latter to see if has logged any codes this time, but there wasnt anything yesterday if it were a petrol id say if felt like a blocked filter really tired of this car now and this is a good 130 mint elegance, god knows what levels of crapness these cars go to any help will be much appreciated put it on a scanner and no codes

i didnt know i had to? and this time its not got a fault code logged, so is this a new thread?

hi i posted a thread last week but no info replies yet but the car is messing about again, no fault codes just intermittent loss of power/boost any ideas

hi all as im getting used to this barge now as i occasionally drive it i thought i'd get back with the cv boot findings im ex merc and other things,but thats another story on a vito or v classe we always removed outer cvs and boots without removing the shaft, ( bonus system) so a while ago i asked the same question of the skoda outer cv, and was advised to remove entirely i know it isnt a french early style claw type cv requiring a trumpet, so i went ahead my way wheel ,hub nut,track rod end,brake carrier and caliper,lower rear ball joint all off and out of harms way cut off old boot hold shaft into gearbox and hold with large mole grips keep outer cv parallel and tap off (used a large mallet) 1 hit simple, it is just a matter of over coming the shafts c clip nothing else disturbed or unnecessarily taken off ....(if your on bonus) cleaned out and refitted with febi kits which are a very good quality hope it helps some one

well done techie this is pretty much the same as i posted with great pictures and idiot proof destructions, i think i posted mine to somebody rather than listing it on the site now i think about it again, good job

hi there i thought of the same thing but opted for a cure,by drilling the seal you dont stop water from getting in, you just divert it, until that hole gets blocked and you start again, the problem is the seal between the door and the removable panel that all the bits are bolted to inside, best remove and re seal for a permanent repair,it is the same smaller version of the pollen housing seal running around the metal panel,and we all know how good that is at keeping water out!) i had to do it to all my doors as once i knew i just couldnt leave it alone and didnt want any more water in the footwells! best regards and keep your feet dry! i posted a link a while back about this but im struggling to find it again, it was on the seat cupra site, this is a fault that affects all modern cars with this type of door inner frame aperture regardless of cost or marque , remove the card, then look down the length of the door with it nearly closed and you will see a perfect route in for mr water an misses headache, easy repair, and if your door cards have been off in the past to do a regulator or other work in the door then theres a very good chance this seal is now kerputten either way its life expectancy is minimal,remove and re seal with a good low modulus mastic and refit. let me know how you got on.

hi and thank you for a clear answer,are there many types of cables? and only a vagcom or vcds (mannyo) will do? this vag stuff is alien to a merc man ! any help and info is welcomed

where can i get the vagcom? i already use a maxi scan and i have a lead from obd to the computer usb connection can i download it from bit torrent? or can some one burn a copy for us? any info is appreciated

did they ever fit a rear dvd player and screen to the back of the drivers arm rest? or is there a kit that anyone knows of?

hello help the last time i drove this car it managed to do a massive 3 miles before it broke down and the starter motor went bandit and left me stranded so i repaired it and left it alone,well alone after that then i had the amusing idea of using it again LOL, mistake first was the brake warning check pad light on the fault was a broken terminal on the nsf caliper so the warning wire wasnt connected. it managed 400 miles this time , a considerable improvement on the first breakdown but its in speshal needs mode again ! it feels like limp mode but no lights on, no boost and slow to do any thing the tool im using is a maxi scan the fault codes are charge pressure control positive deviation : p 1557 17965 - 035 01/01 kwp1281 i done the usual brief checks, as was dark,cannot see any vac pipes split, then erased the code and drove a few yards and its still in limp mode has anyone had this issue and know of a remedy, is it a component or pipe work.... or.... is a 130 tdi a vnt turbo? charge presure control and n75 sonoid valve , where are they fitted regards

hi gary 2010 bad ones, check the threads on the water ingress issue, many well documented ones on there as for electrical problems, unless there are faults and systems not working you might not notice water building up in the foot wells if water gets in under the carpet and sound deadening underlay then there is a ecu that lives in a black box and then the relays on the n/s/f a pillar and the wiring loom that will be sitting in a lake. the loom (once you have peeled back the insulation) will have gone black, if it is to be done properly you must go back until there is clean wire to re solder to, and you must use the correct wire thickness and stand count and replace to the same original lenghts, other wise problems occur latter on then you will find the crimped factory fitted nodes will have all oxidised and will all be useless, these all have to be replaced and re soldered and insulated, properly other wise problems occur latter on drying out the ecu, if it is re usable drying out all the carpets and underlay, no point rushing this bit as it will trap moisture for months if not completely dry and start causing problems for latter on finding the water leak either under the bonnet or .. at the scuttle panel poor fit where a windscreen has been badly fitted and broken the 'edge/lip' of the panel under the scuttle panel around the pollen filter, under which is a broken seal under the scuttle panel,in the plenum chamber, the battery and brake servo will be sitting in a lake because the two rubber drain bungs will be blocked the bonnet release cable grommet to the bulk head leaks in,and gets broken by poorly trained grease monkeys the door inner frames, a large bolted on metal panel where the ancillaries are all bolted has the same seal and lets water straight into the foot wells front or rear leaking sunroof drains down the pillars water can get in every where if not looked after and good periodic maintenance kept up, i have done many of these repairs to the ubber ridiculous expensive mercedes s classe saloon and coupe, and these are very 'can' sensitive , imagine if you will a wheeled Pentium processor, computers and ecu's every where all sitting in the same rotten water, but if these are repaired to the exacting standards as well as the skoda superb, then there is no reason not to buy one if it is repaired properly, IF its repaired properly!, so which one do you buy then? they all do this to varying degrees, its a case of when it happens not if, you cant change the laws of physics captain 130 tdi manuals best bet all rounder in the long run

hi again also the guy on the flea bay has a few other cars for sale,Hmmm, small time trader?? probably with a lower case t then ! and the tip' is a trade as well, my first rule of buying any cars is never trust or buy from a dealer/trader, it may offend but why would anyone buy at an over inflated price with the same old promises and the usual salesman pleasantries only to have a car that crumbles and turns into the car from hell, buy privately every time, and be choosey, it has served me very well, remember they can usually offer credit (at an un favourable rate) and there's salesman wages and rates blah,blah... the sticker price is optimistic, and the climate isnt great for large cars with a bad reputation, even if some of its unfair. then given that reputation , why is it for sale???, people dont sell good cars on the whole, they get rid of tired or troublesome cars, usually to dealers ( sorry i that offends) second rule of buying anything, if you are not embarrassed by your offer, then you are paying too much, this may offend also but you are the buyer with the money!

hi there im not sure on buying prices but remember the running cost.. i like the noise of a v6 and love the tiptronics, because driving should be about getting from a to b effortlessly,and the tip' will do that. but i hate the running cost and higher tax associated with it. also my last tiptronic was due for tax renewal(in june) and i nearly fainted, (i bought the car with 5 months rent on it)and that was only a 130pd tip 4 cylinder rattle box 52plate, when i came round i decided to sell it ! god knows what the tax class would be on the diseasal v6 auto, my heart would say v6 tip but my wallet would win, 1.9pd every time, purely from an economics point of view i know its a boring way to wheedle out what you drive but tax and running costs only go one way, thanks to the unique way we are governed ! either way, which ever one tickles your fancy, check everything, quite literally, gen up on all the issues on here, theres loads of help to be had, and both 6 or 4cyliners suffer with many of the same issues body related check out a comparison for servicing at dealers/or specialists, and timing belt prices, it could sway prospective new buyers enjoy!

hi there im bored its taken nearly two months,but its happened a new record! imo i reckon the grille looks a bit boring and dull so im wondering has anyone got anything interesting out there?? to tart up the grlles top or bottom? ive seen some nice looking bits but they have all been on german or east european cars so getting details is difficult and seen some clip on inserts that could do the trick, lets make it look like a caddy or a linc, anythings better than mine,(imo) id like to buy good used stuff,as spending money on new is a waste,any ideas?? also i found this site and have ordered some bits oe quality ,very helpful , hope it helps http://www.germanautopartsdirect.co.uk

hi there my steering wheel on the superb elegance has gone a bit strange, it seems that the black glossy finish has worn off a bit more now ive used it i dont have any of that male grooming nonsense products on my hands so i was wondering why its started to happen? its glossy over 3/4 of the wheel but not at the correct driving position, thats actually a bit tacky is there a product for this anywhere that you may have come across? can it be saved? :no:

hi all ive not used the superb 130 tdi much and the outgoing passat 130tdi was tiptronic but ive noticed when pulling out of a junction it feels a bit sluggish and has stalled a few times , now i dont rev the car over 1000 to 1500 rpm when pulling away, do these cars need more revs? also the air con was on. i dont have any lights on or other issues and its had the major service if its a case of reving it a bit more , then no worries if not..... what is the verdict on tuning the 130? ive seen cheep little plug in sensor like bits on flea bay, that claim lots, but i feel this just gives the brain the effect its cold and gives it a cold start cycle there are numerous plug in boxes ranging from 85 to 399 quid then theres the re map the boxes appeal to me because the info is in the box and if the fault codes are read, the erase function wouldnt touch the tuning box but could re map be erased ? or do you get a cd also with it? im a little vague on this and i dont know anyone in this area that is recommended, sussex. any ideas we be very welcomed

no worries, just trying to give the best of me experience so others dont suffer or have too many problems! doing either of these jobs may seem a bit daunting but they can be done with a minimum of tools and you dont need to be a master technician either the best bit is seeing how badly they were nailed together and rectifying all the issues, it does give a great feeling of accomplishment i suppose they were built down to a price with the inbuilt obsolescence and self destruction best bet, think of the picture of borat in a leotard and them give him a hammer and some nails and maybe some spit and tissue paper, thats what i think of when i wonder who built my car ! lol paul

hi all i thought you might like to hear about a car i knew off puegeot 1.6hdi 16 valve diesel 2005 model, bought from the west country, and it had been run on bio fuel regularly exceptional in every way an low mileage but at 3000 rpms and over it sounded like a machine gun and not usual diesel clatter,the main dealer said they make a bit of noise, but we can fit a pair of cams........... so i bought it cheap!! no signs of any problems or warning lights at all i removed the oil filter paper element and it was as if i was looking at an old hgv diesel particulate centrifugal filter it was a perfect cast of the filter and blocked i drained the oil and left in a bucket for latter analysis refitted new filter and new oil it didnt take 100 yards to clear out the oil galleries no more noise , no more clatter. no sounding like a machine gun. it was silent. the problem was oil starvation, bio fuel will leak past the piston and end up in the sump and will damage things BE VERY CAREFUL IF YOU WANT TO USE THIS!! the car was full dealer history and only 57.000 miles with fully synthetic oils used in servicing.(i checked) now a few days latter and at normal workshop conditions and temperatures, the oil that was drained had turned to jelly and needed stiring to break it up, looked similar in consistency to non drip gloss i have never seen this before down here, but with my contacts around the west country and mod/raf bases, 'it isnt that unusual and people are now getting scared' regards

hi there Rob been here and done it, mine and many other threads with pics are all on here ( and i sent a good one of the door issue also) scuttle panel , start there check for leaf debris and water in the plenum chamber remove the rubber bungs and clean out, if the car has had a repair to the pollen filter housing dont take it for granted that it was done with a level of competence, i know some people have not removed the scuttle and tried to do this,BODGING IT, thus not making a good seal if using mastic or pushing the new foam seal out of alignment, then not being able to fit the pollen drip cover back in place and leaving it out,then water will still get in, mine was absolutely under water but showed no signs of water on the carpets front or rear, with the n/s stripped out and carpet propped up it took a week to dry out, and thats without bailing out water from the front and rear metal foot well with a sponge and bucket if there is water trapped in the car and as its steaming up a bit my guess is its wet somewhere, take up the carpet and investigate if the car has a sunroof check the drains door seals check for good fit and not perished NOW the other not so mentioned bit is the doors all vag seat skoda and numerous other manufacturers use a system of bolting all door ancillaries to a bolted metal frame/plate that once removed from the car leaves a cavernous hole , on the back of that big plate that you unbolt is THE SAME WORTHLESS USELESS FECKLESS PIECE OF RUBBISH SEAL THATS IDENTICAL TO THE POLLEN SEAL , only smaller! (shouting bit over) that seal meets at the bottom and guess what happens , it fails then water runs inside the door panel out the bottom between the door card and the door lower metal frame pressing,it then comes out and sits on top of the bottom rubber door seal above the sill, then it tracks its way down and under the carpet, the car thinks its a boat or a u boat because it invites the water in from everywhere! as i said mine showed no signs other than looking like a green house with water dripping down from everywhere, BUT it did have the water sitting on top of the rubber door seals, now ive tried to get the link for this but have forgotten my password for the seatcupra forum, its well documented there too. i addressed all four doors and to date with all the mods done it seams to be water tight remove the door card and then close the door slightly and look down the length of the door, you will see a perfect path for water to come in, and many cars have this issue let us know the results regards paul