fabdavrav
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Posts posted by fabdavrav
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18 minutes ago, wyx087 said:
I remembered that you wanted to see some data after a few years. Hopefully that was helpful in updating your view of EV's.
Why do you consider this a trollling behaviour when I have fresh data to share?
Digging up a comment I made 6+yrs ago I consider trolling.....or stalking!...
Its not like my comment was a detailed mechanical how-to guide & you're querying how I did something as you're following the guide & having problems...
My view of EVs hasn't changed...I won't be getting one any time soon...my 9yr old MK7 Golf does very well for me!
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Considering this thread is 90 pages long & I don't bother with it any more why did you go back & quote comment I made back in November 2017yr some 6+yrs ago??
TBH thats some trolling digging up a comment that old!
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9 hours ago, mccririck said:
Yeah, I use FLAC. It can play 24 bit 48kHz FLAC. (It can play 96kHz but I think it down samples to 48)
I have FLAC (right up to 192kHz 24 bit studio masters for home, & even thought I have the optional Dynaudio speaker package in my MK7 Golf, its not the right environment for high quality/perfect listening, which is why I settled for fix bit rate LAME MP3 "lossy"
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2 hours ago, mccririck said:
Lossless MP3?
Lazy on my part....
Actually a fixed 320kbps LAME encoded MP3....which is "Lossy"....the best quality you can have in MP3...
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Thats the music as?...I have mine on a SD card (MK7 Golf)....one basic partition & all as lossless MP3....
The MIB systems slow down if you have lots of folders...
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This is why I retro fitted the TPMS button to my MK7....only China get it!...
Having everything on a touch screen is stupid, if the touch screen goes thats it how you do TPMS or even switch of the ASR/ESC in winter?...
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On 24/02/2024 at 15:42, nicosu said:
I'll ressurect this thread.
I bought a VCDS cable because I read so many places that coding was highly recommended. I installed the new battery now and f* me; the module shown in all videos I have seen on the topic, does not exist for me. Does anyone know if I can, and if so HOW, code a new battery on the Octavia mk3 2014? The new one is bigger than the other, so I would prefer if I could change that.
All info in my old thread here:-
VCDS coding required
From the Main screen:-
Select Control Module [Select]
[19-CAN Gateway]
Advanced Functions screen:-
[Adaptions-10]
New value choice screen:-
Change the following four channels, inputting the relevant data about the new battery.
IDE03256-MAS06105-Battery adaptation-Rated battery capacity
IDE03256-MAS06106-Battery adaptation-Battery technology
IDE03256-MAS06107-Battery adaptation-Battery manufacturer
IDE03256-MAS06108-Battery adaptation-Battery Serial Number
When you click on "Battery technology" (using VCDS 21.3.0) a drop down list appears with the following options (= actual meaning):-
Wet = Standard Lead Acid
Fleece = Standard A.G.M.
Wickel6V
Wickel12V
Ultracap
Gel = Standard Gel Lead Acid
Lithium ions = Standard LiFePO4
EFB = Standard E.F.B.
Binary - AGM = "Bipolar" A.G.M. type
EFB+ = E.F.B. "Plus" type
Not_assigned_10
Not_assigned_11
Not_assigned_12
Not_assigned_13
Not_assigned_14
Unknown
According to various sources of information, including numerous car scans & threads on Ross-Tech, "Fleece" is for standard AGM batteries, "EFB" is for standard EFB batteries, & "Wet" is for standard lead acid batteries, as these settings are used at the factory. The setting of "Binary - AGM" is apparently for specialist "Bipolar AGM" batteries! Also the drop down list is from VCDS & not generated by your car's BCM, therefore, your car may not support all the options on the list, & the BCM will reject the value when you tell it to accept it!
Battery BEM codes are now redundant with the above separate channels. The most important channels are:- Rated battery capacity, Battery technology, & Battery Serial Number. For the Battery Serial Number, just change one digit of the old one. This channel tells the BCM that a new battery has been installed & to relearn the new battery & forget any “learnt values” for the old battery! -
9 hours ago, Mastercard said:
Ah, its for IRS. I have the 1.5 TSI Octavia.
One of the reasons I ordered a MK7 Golf estate as the IRS was fitted to the 1.4lt engine...
MK3 Octavia in 2014 only had it on VRS, L&K & then Scout....& the 1.8lt petrol L&K had the same "MQ250" designation gearbox as my 1.4Lt...so basically hampering the bigger & heavier 1.8lt engine!...
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13 hours ago, Mastercard said:
Could you send me the link for these dampers?
The detailed thread on the item that I wrote a few years back..
Its just one item & two nuts, only for the cars with the multi-link rear suspension
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On 29/01/2024 at 11:09, varaderoguy said:
Sounds good. Who do you think would be good people to go to - to get this done? We have an independant VAG specialist here in Edinburgh - Autohaus. Any recommendations?
No idea..I'm a few hundred miles away.....
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The 2lt diesel version of my car, same gearbox, trim, etc..was more crashy over potholes, so much so that most of the press lot in 2014 who had test driven the MK7 Golf estate in my trim, which at the time was the top trim, wrote about it & I was ready to swap it out when I got my car delivered...a test drive in a 2lt diesel version of my car also confirmed it...then I got my car...no "crashy"...
Go figure!!..
I would suggest the Koni "Actives"..basically the new name for the old FSD dampers which I had on my MK1 Fabia & ran with the OEM factory springs...perfect set-up...
Koni actives are for standard springs & allow the wheels to be pushed up into the body....so soft for potholes/bumps...but resist the body pushing down on the wheels, so firm for corners, braking...
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It is a well known fault..the seals fail...The full item is the aluminium impellor housing which bolts to the engine block..so the seals there can fail. Then there is the plastic thermostat housing which can crack & the seals between it & the impellor block can also fail. Whilst you have the water pump off, you might as well replace the toothed drive belt. It has a 3 stage torque down sequence for the bolts to get the correct tension on the housing & the belt!....
I have the same CHPA engine....& after 9yrs mine was leaking late last year....Put car into dealers (where I bought the car 9yrs ago) for MOT, & they didn't comment on it!...So I said what about the coolant leak?..."£100 diagnostic fee".....to which I said I know what is leaking & where from & there is a TSB for the fault!...So they asked for a photo to be sent...so I did...The Service Manager waived the diagnostic fee & the car was booked in.
The bill was cheap (they did a deal on labour for me due to above & missing it in the MOT), so I won't quote the full charge. Lets just say it wasn't much more than the total parts cost!
Parts cost inc. VAT:-
04E-121-600-CS, Water pump = £195.60
04E-121-605-E, Toothed Belt = £24.42
G12-E05-0A2, 1lt of Coolant (x2) = £16.80 (£8.40 each)
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1 hour ago, Jockfixer said:
Many thanks Fabdavrav. If I can get the front bolts out this could be useful.
Look at the top of the first photo I posted..title says it all....its for when you cannot move the seat front to back as the motor has failed....you undo different bolts, NOT the ones you photographed...
45 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:I've only glanced briefly at the docs provided by @fabdavrav, but aren't they exactly for the case where you can't get at those normal screws cos of non-working front-to-back motor?
Correct..OP hasn't read what I posted!...🤦♂️
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On 12/01/2024 at 12:17, Jockfixer said:
I need to remove the electric front driver seat of my Superb 3 in order to diagnose non-function of the electric action. Unfortunately seat is fully forward and the upper, sliding rail is covering the front bolts. Cold chisel to slacken them, then fiddle with pliers? Make a special tool from a short spline bit, with a handle/rod welded to the side of the bit? Any suggestions gratefully received!
From the same MQB platform MK7 Golf ERWIN books in order:-
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1 hour ago, gregoir said:
Just ordered OSRAM from Power Bulbs. Those H15 are very expensive though.Thanks. My current bulbs simply do not illuminate the grass verge.
My eyes have been checked by the finest eye hospital in England.
H7 is the dipped, & the one that gets the most usage, thats why I just suggested that...
I would also check if you have any self levelling, or dial levelling to control the headlight level..I know my old MK1 Fabia had dial levelling (dial next to dash brightness dial)....self levelling is usually on Xenons I know....as the levelling sensor can seize & the BCM just points the headlights at max "down" as a safety fault...
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4 hours ago, MarkyG82 said:
There have been reports on here of people getting through MOT with them fitted. The tester probably employed by the same company as @gregoir's optician.
I know others where I live & on the MK7 Golf forums who have gotten away with it....& I also know some who didn't....
I prefer to give out the best legal advice....having recently re-read the current amended MOT rules, & the car lighting design regulations, as I swapped ALL my rear bulbs (all 9 of them) for drop in Osram LEDs & re-programmed the dimming values etc on my MK7 Golf estate...
I didn't do the front as I have Xenons, & everything is bright enough...I'm already (past 6yrs) running uprated nightbreakers as cornering & fogs anyway..
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22 hours ago, gregoir said:
After a number of eye operations and getting older, I'm finding it more difficult to drive in dark conditions. My eyes meet and exceed the DVLA requirements. I'm driving with the foglights on to pick up ill -defined road edges, pedestrians and pot holes on dark roads.
I know that my 2016 Octavia Mk3, standard halogen bulbs, has an odd bulb covering the dip and DRL. Have you any recommendations for decent, legal and brighter bulbs? Dip and main.
Sounds like the Octavia suffers from the similar bad reflector design like the Roomster did.....however when everybody else has Xenons & LED lights, halogens pale (literally) by comparison.
In the UK for dipped & main beam you have to keep the exact bulb type for the reflector (as per lighting regs & MOT)...so your reflector is for Halogens...so you have to fit halogens...you can't fit LED (drop-ins) for those bulbs, but you can for all other external bulbs!
Looks like H7 for dipped & H15 for main.
Selection of H7 here, I only use Osram or Phillips:-
H7 Bulbs | Upgrade Car, Van & Motorcycle H7 Bulbs (autobulbsdirect.co.uk)
Osram Night Breaker in +100% has a 1yr warranty.....their 150%+ & 200%+ only have a 6month warranty ...all three are road legal...
Phillips do several bulbs...again in 100+ or 200%+
Powerbulbs also has them:-
Ignore the LED drop ins...you'll get pulled on your next MOT as not road legal in UK for dipped/main beam...
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12 hours ago, boardtc said:
You rock @fabdavrav! I gave that info to the dealer and they found the part....they pulled up the first diagram first and like you say useless! V8V0857763B came in today and they have me a call. It cost €8.89, fits like a glove!
Glad it worked out!...
Thats the trouble with second hand cars....(It can happen to new cars also).....bits go missing, & getting the bits that it should have can be a bit tricky!...
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35 minutes ago, Vam said:
My mech had changed the battery and fitted a new EFB battery. But he said it doesn’t require programming or registration.
Find a new tech....
As per my comment above....This applies to ALL cars with the "stop/start" eco function....
Even if the new battery is the exact same type/capacity/brand as the original factory one, you still need to alter the code line "serial number" by one digit to "tell" the BCM that a new battery has been installed & for it to forget all the old learnt values as a nice new battery has been installed.
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17 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:
Compared to strip fuse cracking I think module failure must be very rare, so no-one should even contemplate blaming the module ahead of checking that fuse.
The reason for the post is that I was PM'd by a member regarding splitting the ABS unit & referred to these two threads....So for reference I attached the photo showing that the ABS can be split apart easily & that the two sections can be separated.
In the ABS units the PCB boards can fail, mine did & even BBA-Reman couldn't fix it...!!!...
Or if in the case of the member who contacted me, the hydraulics unit has problems (pipe/nipple threads have been FUBAR), to save recoding a used electronics unit, just separate & keep your electronics unit & re-join with a good matching hydraulics unit.
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To help others & thanks to @AshPearson for linking back to this thread, I've attached my old photo & comments of the ABS unit:-
The ABS splits into two components both can purchased new separately! One is the hydraulic block which is what the fluid is in & is silver in colour. The black plastic box is the electronics & the main PCB in this fails. I had this happen to me, & sent the unit off to be remanufactured/repaired, but the PCB had components on it which were FUBAR. So a whole new unit was ordered, I could have just got the electronic box & fitted it to the main block.
There are only six small TX-star screws which connect the two units together, but the new (or reused second hand) electronic unit will need VCDS to recode it to your car, so you need to save the coding from the old unit.
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To update this thread I've included a photo in my above comment.
Many thanks @AshPearson!
Actually the comment is too old & won't let me add the photo so I'll attach it below!..:-
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4 hours ago, Vam said:Hi, I own a Skoda rapid 2016 92KW 1.4tsi Spaceback Monte Carlo model. It has auto start stop function but it is fitted with a conventional battery from previous owner which is causing problems with idling and stalling and doesn’t support start stop function. Can someone suggest a battery either EFB or AGM that it needs to run normal.
thanks in advance.
ALL stop/start systems require either an EFB or an AGM battery....Bosch/Varta are the best & actually the same company....
Varta who make some of the batteries for VAG confirmed that standard battery case sizes are used to make the VAG factory batteries, but that the Ah capacities are “special” to VAG for those case sizes. Basically, VAG are confusing us to make sure we end up buying a direct replacement battery from them when in fact a standard battery which is available from any auto parts supplier will fit & do the job!!
You also need to code the BCM....
ALL info on battery types & coding in my thread on this other forum:-
E.F.B. (Enhanced Flooded Battery):- These usually have two times (x2) the cycle starts compared to a standard battery. They are still a standard lead acid battery (hybrid version), so cannot be held upside down & will leak if the case is broken. Basically, the car industry wanted a cheaper version of the AGM battery for the Stop-Start engine technology. EFB is the result!
A.G.M. (Absorbent Glass Mat) batteries:- These were fitted to the early Stop/Start (BlueMotion) systems, & usually have three times (x3) the cycle starts compared to a standard lead acid battery. In these the liquids have been absorbed by a framework of glass fibre mats. There is no liquid to move around, so they can be held upside down, & are leakproof if the case is broken! These are the safest in a crash which is why they have been used in racing/rallying for years! Unfortunately, they can be more prone to heat damage (see below on heat shield) than the other types of battery, & they are more expensive! These batteries require specific battery chargers/conditions that will work with AGM batteries.
VCDS coding required
From the Main screen:-
Select Control Module [Select]
[19-CAN Gateway]
Advanced Functions screen:-
[Adaptions-10]
New value choice screen:-
Change the following four channels, inputting the relevant data about the new battery.
IDE03256-MAS06105-Battery adaptation-Rated battery capacity
IDE03256-MAS06106-Battery adaptation-Battery technology
IDE03256-MAS06107-Battery adaptation-Battery manufacturer
IDE03256-MAS06108-Battery adaptation-Battery Serial Number
When you click on "Battery technology" (using VCDS 21.3.0) a drop down list appears with the following options (= actual meaning):-
Wet = Standard Lead Acid
Fleece = Standard A.G.M.
Wickel6V
Wickel12V
Ultracap
Gel = Standard Gel Lead Acid
Lithium ions = Standard LiFePO4
EFB = Standard E.F.B.
Binary - AGM = "Bipolar" A.G.M. type
EFB+ = E.F.B. "Plus" type
Not_assigned_10
Not_assigned_11
Not_assigned_12
Not_assigned_13
Not_assigned_14
Unknown
According to various sources of information, including numerous car scans & threads on Ross-Tech, "Fleece" is for standard AGM batteries, "EFB" is for standard EFB batteries, & "Wet" is for standard lead acid batteries, as these settings are used at the factory. The setting of "Binary - AGM" is apparently for specialist "Bipolar AGM" batteries! Also the drop down list is from VCDS & not generated by your car's BCM, therefore, your car may not support all the options on the list, & the BCM will reject the value when you tell it to accept it!
Battery BEM codes are now redundant with the above separate channels. The most important channels are:- Rated battery capacity, Battery technology, & Battery Serial Number. For the Battery Serial Number, just change one digit of the old one. This channel tells the BCM that a new battery has been installed & to relearn the new battery & forget any “learnt values” for the old battery!-
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38 minutes ago, SouthernComfort said:
You may well be cavalier enough to mock the prospect of anyone losing capacity whilst behind the wheel. In the real world, heart attacks for example, come without warning, any age, any gender, any time, any place. Mate, I hope you never experience one, especially in a driving situation. But then again you won't be able to predict that. Following your philosophy maybe none of us should be on the road.
Heart attacks can happen to anyone...but your health or lack of, will pre-dispone you more or less to them..so you will have a good idea if you will suffer from them..& heart attacks are NOT the main cause of car accidents...
5 major causes of UK road traffic accidents and how to avoid them - Serious Injury law
Factors leading to road accidents in Great Britain | Statista
I've had & still have several health problems which have over the past circa 18yrs affected my ability to drive at one time or the other...If I don't feel fit enough to cope either physically of mentally I don't drive....maybe I'm just more aware of my limitations & of my health in general....being in control of a high speed weapon (car) which can & does kill is a reasonability!
You don't have to have health problems to be a danger to yourself & others when you get behind the wheel of the car....according to UK data apparently circa 38% of all UK accidents are caused by "driver failed to look properly"....then you have failure to "judge other persons speed" at 20%....etc....this is usually due to the MENTAL capacity of the driver at the time......are they AWAKE??...are they DISTRACTED?....
Example:-
When I'm fit & go mountaineering, the worst is when you all get back to the car after a long day in the hills...you will be tired, physically & mentally & you relax way too much (most mountaineering accidents are on the walk off)......I see many people get straight into their car & bomb it back home....I get changed into "driving" clothes, open the flask of coffee I had stowed in the car & have a sit down, have the coffee & some food. This might be a 30mins break but it mentally prepares me for what could be up to a 2hr long drive on twisty back roads in winter with snow etc.....& its way better than jumping straight into the car & relying on the "driver assist" systems!
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The battery as the new frontier
in Electric Vehicles
Posted
Whatever.....