cado

That all makes sense, I guess I won't know the prognoses until some time this coming week.

Hi and thanks for the info. My petrol Yeti is low mileage on a 65 plate, just under 50 thousand miles and is a 1.2 TSi. About 3 1/2 years ago I had, after a dramatic injector and rail failure, had them replaced, since then the car has been perfect, other than silly things like replacing wheel sensors, that type of thing that's part and parcel of owning a car/Yeti. I like my Yeti, rarely go faster the 65mph and it chugs away happily. Even when cold I don't think I have ever smelt petrol. the only time I have done so was the original failure of the rail/ injectors, so you may be onto something as I did get a strong whiff of petrol again this time around. I know Yeti injectors are known to shake themselves loose or get stripped but would have thought when they replaced the rail and injectors they would have done so with upgraded bolts, I know originally there was a design fault with Yeti fuel rail bolts that was widely reported on this site and others. I hope it is an issue that can be simply fixed, like tightening, I won't know till next week.

Thank you, today I drove it 4 miles to the garage that services my Yeti, no faster than 15mph, apart from limp mode, ( EPC light ), the engine check light also appeared. Other then that the car behaved normally, by that I mean no strange noises, no smells except a strong petrol smell, I shall have to see what it is and the cost damage.

UK Yeti 1.2 TSI Manual, Petrol Would anyone be kind enough by marking the image below, show me where the plastic pipe from the brake servo to the inlet manifold under the throttle body is located? Trying to investigate an EPC warning light issue for myself but don't have a workshop manual to show me around.

Thanks Varooom, I am a beleiver in the notion, " if it works leave the dammn thing alone. But I sometimes choose to ignore my own thinking. Could you give me the file update. I don't have a Skoda SD but have others I can re-format to fat 32, would this be OK?

I have a Bolero in my Yeti 1.2 Tsi SE. It works ok. I don't have Smart Link enabled. Is it worth me updating?

Not sure if this should be under a separate heading but as I mentioned it here. Carista dongle procedure, it all went to plan but some differences. The dongle is available on Amazon at a discount price but not obvious. Sellers mention Carista Gen 1 & 2, don't get hung up on this, they are and do the same thing, the confusion caused is all about packaging. While you do get a free 1 months trial, you do have to purchase a full years subscription and cancel within 30 days. In the UK once the app has downloaded, dongle plugged in and both phone and dongle are connected, there is no longer a choice of countries as stated in some of the You Tubes, This I think is because the Carista app has evolved/updated, you get a choice of Germany, Europe/Other, choose the latter if in the UK. There is no Australia or America selection although there is still the choice of languages Depending on what you are attempting, the video/s are pretty much as advised. I got my big speedo back so am happy. 😄

Hi, Engine bay isn't the problem. I like to carry in the back of the car get out of trouble tools, the 808 is a little large to stack/hide tidly away. Like you I have just purchased mine, I was just a bit surprised by its size, still I'm not complaning, good price, good tool.

Hi, I'm not expert enough to give an opnion on the Ctec, for argument sake call it a smart charger that has trickle charge capabilities. I am on a budget and could not justifi forking out £80-£100, knocking around in the back of the car owning a Ctec and getting used only when required. The Ctek however is a smaller then the Ring charger I purchased so makes tucking it away neater. Still the Ring does everything the Ctec does, it is just larger, put up with that, then the price is pretty good to to carry in the back of the car to get used when required.

Just replaced the EFB battery in my Yeti with a Bosh EFB 027. The old battery had been dormant for some 3 years but I wanted to see if it was posible to bring it back to life first by kick starting it with a standard battery charger to get some life in it, then let a trickle charger take over. I didn't even get that far, the old battery would simply not take/keep a charge, no point in flogging a dead horse, so scrapped the battery, pity I wanted to see how effective my new Ring battery charger would cope.

Tayna were excellent, next day delivery, in the end I got a Bosch EFB 027 battery.

I finaly got my Yeti back a few days ago, just over £1500 to sort out and it is great to have the vehicle back up and running. A whole bunch of work done, replacement fuel rail, injectors, battery, new water pump and belt, full service and everything that includes so all in all £1500 is not to bad. I have forgoton how to set up a couple of things and because of the works undertaken the workshop did a factory reset to clear all fault codes, I understand this, unfortunatly this has made disapear a couple of things that were enabled, one being the big didital speedo. However I have just invested in a Carista module/dongle and viewed a very good how to You Tube video so will have the big speedo back up and showing by the weekend. Good to be able to use my MP3 player and lisen again to my varied mix of music. All is good, it is one thing less I have to worry or feel bad about.

I understand J.R., a great many people all over have had to make changes for reason/s or other. No matter how hard for you, the fact you were able to start making changes, against the tide maybe, says a lot for your character and strength. I on the otherhand, crashed out, I was like--well-- mentally swimming through jelly, a lot of heartache and greif, things had to give and I did. As someone said to me recently, holes like that don't go away, you just, given time, learn to stear around them. It's a crooked straight line path but everyday is going forward---most days that is.

fantastic, thankyou.

Yes my fault, I purchased the vehicle in 2019, it broke down in 2019.

Thanks, I may even have one, I vaguly remember buying one, if not I will buy one. If sump tube doesn't fit, I suppose I can aways adapt it, splice a tube that does fit to 3-4inchs of tube supplied.

Hi Urrell and thanks If the pump is good I can wait for it to go on sale in Lidl but are you saying its suction pump won't fit down the Yeti dip stick tube, which defeats its purpose?

Thanks Toot. I have thought of using a suction pump, saves removing the sump plug and I can still replace the oil filter at same time. Any particular make/brand/ electric/manual you would recommend?

Hi Nigel, As I will be changing oil and filter on a more regular basis, it is something I ought know/ learn to do but my age and body creaks is not something working on cars lends itself well to anymore. Fortunatly I do have resonably well complemented tools for such work including car ramps, still the thought of it, not great, hurts thinking about it. I agree but most of that is accademic if the vehicle is a non-starter, but I agree.

Hi J.R. The vehicle has been off the road for three years only, it has only ever had two owners including myself, I purchased it from a Skoda main dealer who accepted it from the original owner who had it on lease purchase and upgraded. Original owner from new purchased it in 2016, I purchased it in early 2019. It has to the best of my knowledge only ever been seviced by the Skoda dealer it came from, ( I'm sure somewhere I have the service history ), I didn't have the vehicle long enough on the road to require a service but it was due. The vehicle is going in for works this week, mid week, I will know more then. At the time of breaking down I was informed by the Skoda main dealer/workshop that it required all new injectors due to a fuel leak and injectors had sheared off, that is what they said. This may not have been the truth and instead it was a fuel rail bolt issue, ( a known issue ) ), one VW was refusing to reconise or put right under a Skoda waranty I had with them, in other words, I was getting screwed---but we shall see. The original premise of this thread was " My Dilemma ", it moved on as threads can sometimes do. As I have nothing else to do but wait untill vehicle is up and running, I might as well learn some of the important stuff, type of oil to use is one among a number of things. Even if I don't ever get to do an oill change/filter, leave it to the garrage, it is worth knowing, changing car bulbs on my vehicle, which apparently is a biiitch, I should know, it's things like that I have/will be asking about, peoples experiance exspecialy with a Yeti. However I do understand the points you make.

Hello Toot I think something has got lost in translation in one of my posts. I don't think LL oil is right for my Yeti. An oil filter change is usally a must with an oil change-- but as I am going to undertake oil changes much more often, 6-7 thousand miles, I was wondering if I could skip an oil filter change to every say 2nd oil change?

Thanks Nigel, I threw 1500 miles at the oil change, it seemed the sensible approach, but thinking about it 1500 miles is to long, I will half that to 500 or 700 miles, same reasoning, using it as an oil flush, then change to oil brand of desired choice. I will not be using a LL oil for reasons explained, I just think it the more sensible approach given how my Yeti will be used. As I will be changing oil every 6-7 thousand miles, in your opnion should I be changing the oil filter with every oil change?? I have heard of Millers, I will check their oil out but I will stick to a 5W-30 spec', regardless of brand,for peace of mind. On the subject of oil filters, my Yeti being a 2016 1.2TSi manual, petrol and a diffrent layout to diesel versions, where is the oil filter on my vehicle, is it accesed from the top or bottom? Would you know if it a canister or filter/cardridge type?

Thanks Toots and why 5W-40 and not 5W-30 as specified for a Yeti 1.2 TSi?

Hi, Toots, My Yeti is a 1.2TSi, petrol, manual, 2016 plate, 39,300 miles on the clock from new, 2nd owner with Start/Stop. Yeti will have work done on it soon as it has been a non-runner for 3 years. Among other things is draining the existing oil, replacing it along with oil filter. I have settled on the oil I will eventually use which is Castrol Magnatec start/stop, this has an ACEA C2 value and it is not LL. However, depending on whom I speak to, recommended is either Quantum Cube, fully synthetic, VW spec' is 504.00/507.00, QC is apparently what VW put in a lot of their engines. is LL and is ACEA C3 Another with the same specs' as Quantum is Castrol Edge, again LL and ACEA C3. So why am I choosing Castrol Magnatec that is a little lower in spec', is VW 502 00/ 505 00 --- well it's to try to match how my Yeti will get used and is specifically for start stop engines but it is not my only reasoning. My car will now only ever get used for very short journeys and maybe only 3-4 times a week, rest of the time it will be parked up. All three oils are 5W-30, the difference being the first two are optimised for every day, lengthy driving/mileage. Whereas the Magnatec, while it will protect on a long journey, is more suited for less used vehicles, where LL is not so important and a regular oil change and filter every 6-7 thousand miles. My plan is to let the workshop drain and fill with whatever oil required when work is completed, use it as a kind of engine flush, drain at 1500 miles, then drain and fill with Magnatec and a new filter, that's the plan anyway. I can't prove any of this to you, it is all just my reasoning and opinion.

Obviously not Nigel but I think you worry to much about it. I'm getting to know you, so long as readers are aware what your posting may not be relavant to their particular issue, you keep posting, it's all interesting stuff and I've learnt a lot. Going off topic can be frustrating but that's forum life for you.