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Hi and thanks to both Toot and Varooom for the above oil specs', not sure how we got there on this thread. I note tho' none of the above images recomend what oil should be used for a petrol 1.2 TSI Yeti 2016 which is 83-85KW, 110 BHP varient,

Thanks Varooom, Once I have the Yeti returned to me, this is something I will download, so much learning and reading to do. In times gone by, a manual for your specific make and model of vehicle, a trip to your Auto Mart shop or W.H. Smiths, life was eaiser.

Thanks Toot, Like some things in life, if I knew then what I know now maybe things would have been easier for me. BTW, where can I find this fault/s officially acknowledged by VW and the fixes, TSBs I think is the term used?

First I wasn't sure where to post this, here or Freedom section. 2nd, my dilemma can't really be sattisfied to any great degree by posting this, ultimatly, the desicon is mine. My Yeti is a 1.2 TSi, 2016, petrol, manual, 39,300 miles on the clock from new, 2nd owner, purchased from a Skoda Dealer. I have written about my Yeti on another forum, I joined this forum some time ago as the original intention was to buy a Roomster but that never happened. As on the other forum, in recent weeks and days I have got such good advice from both. My Yeti broke down in November 2016, 2019, family and my mental health issues prevented me getting Yeti issues resolved, vehicle hasn't started since. I'm much stronger now, raring to go but admittedly mistrustful. My driving career and my age is such I am much more use to " classic cars ", things easier to repair, the Yeti is the most complicated vehicle I have owned and so much about it I don't understand. But no regrets buying, I do however/am bitterly regretful how I was treated by VW. I trusted what I was told, wasn't smart enough, quick enough to see through the ***t VW spewed out. I didn't question, I trusted. And when you know little mechanically about your vehicle, not a great place to be. So my dilemma is who I should trust with repairs to my vehicle and there is a budget factor to but the cost is going to hurt, I know this. Certainly in the last 2-3 weeks I have spoken to lots of garages,, 40 miles or so either side of Swansea, trying to find my way through my own reticence, my mistrust, But frankly the *******s some of these garages spout. However I have found two garages I like and have spoken to in person. The first run by two guys, mid 50s, grease monkeys would not be amiss as a description, I spoke to them in person, they know their stuff and have VW diagnostics, I could tell they have seen vehicles come and go, drivers to but their garage, what a **** hole, I mean appalling, totally unorganised but I bet they knew where every nut/bolt/ part was or at least what part of the garage to try find it. They were reluctant to let me have VW fault print outs but happy to use non Skoda but oem parts and guarantee their work for 12 months and I think cheaper of the two found. The 2nd garage, huge difference, as with the first, the boss knew what he was talking about, he wasn't out to impress just clearly knew about Yeti, 1.2 TSi engines in general, like most I have spoken to, he doubts all the injectors have sheared and all need replacing, he to thinks it's a fuel rail bolt issue but damage might have been caused to one or two of the injectors, again happy to use non Skoda but oem spec' parts. He however is only prepared to guarantee his work/parts for 6 months, can give me fault print outs and uses the same diagnostics VW use. I liked him, his garage was at least better organised and so much cleaner, I didn't like it was going to cost the same using him as using a VW service centre and he hasn't been established in his premises for long. He quoted up to £ 1500, which defeats my attempt in keeping costs down but in fairness to both, they can't quote accurately until either have the car and inspect. Both garages are not VAG I don't think but my vehicle is long out of warranty, I'd still feel much happier if I could find a place that is VAG for peace of mind, I have spoken to 2 or 3 but they have not inspired me much. You can't judge a book by its cover, that's where I'm at, my dilemma. I could keep looking but prevarication sets in.

Thanks Warrior, will do.

Thanks Nigel, I can do all of that, cordless angle grinder will make short work of it and a bit of redesign. I actually purchased two in case I lost one but what you wrote about the pendulum affect made me glad I bought two. Tyres are all good, all the same, 6mm tread on all, side walls all look good. Their condition surprised me as I had originally budgeted for new, not required. I would love to fit Michelin Cross Climates but the money ain't there. Break fluid will all be changed as will oil/filter, coolant, belts that type of thing. Belt wise what would that be, cam, pump, alternator, anything else on the Yeti? What filters should I be asking about after 3 years or change regardless of need? It has been a busy day today and I have created a bit of a dilemma for myself, I will write about this in a separate thread.

Thanks Warrior, Just making pennies and pounds count, I had some Ali vouchers, that helped, they are clones, no doubt but decent ones, they all seem to be the same build internaly. Flight/gun case, great idea, I will grab one off Amazon/eBay.

Yes that is what I found. I getting the vehicle ready for work, just checking the things I can do so the other day removed all the rims, I did struggle some. It didn't help I was working off a trolly, can't find my stands for love of money so was being a little furtive and a couple of them required some knocking to get them off the hubs. I was checking the discs all round for condition, very good but they needed emery and cleaner, came up near perfect, not bad I'm thinking after vehicle being stationary for 3 years, some mild corrosion. that's all. But did struggle getting the rims back on, it's as you write, the centre hubs on my Yeti are shallow so rims kept slipping off. Didn't help it were cold and wet, got 'em back on but I thought never again, alignment pins. I had already asked about them, it was one or two required seemed to be the view. I bought two, glad now, as that " pendulum affect ", makes sense to me, I shall see. Can't really avoid damage to alloy finish around holes, be carefull I suppose, I might shrink some tubbing around the pins, that might help.

Hi Nigel, It's why I bought them. set of two, 4 in all, daughter's wheels are small, not so much of an issue but the thought of any of the kids struggling to swap a tyre. Yeti's on the other hand larger and heavy and I struggled the other day, I bought two but others say one is adequate, I will have to find out for myself. I don't know how long the ones I have bought are, again some are saying a little long, make things awkward but I can shorten if so required. Got them for a good price on Ali, let's hope they are up to the job and not Chinese soft metal, we shall see, also hope I don't have to use them often but if anyone is prone to punctures, it's me, just is. Through out my driving life, every screw/nail on the road my tyres scream, " come and get me "!

Will do, thanks Warrior. Any opnion on the MM I purchased?

Hi Warrior and thanks. Did a decent amount of reading on the AstroAl , 4000 & the 6000 and great reviews, my reason for opting for the 6000 is simply I want to start getting in to measuring capacitors and such like. You Tube last night and discovered the 6000 is the same as the picture below so I ordered that on Ali, its the same MM--apparently or close. Found a few applicable Ali vouchers so paid £16 odd for the MM and managed to bag a hard case for it for around £7.00. Was hoping to find a case for the smart charger, couldn't find one to fit so that will have to be stored in plastic container when not in use. Hopefully I have bought OK, no idea half the stuff MM can do, that's a learning curve coming my way so now I just have to be patient and wait for the slow boat Bought a couple of things for the Yeti, wheel locating alignment tool and a set for one of my daughters and a Nano--something toy for one of the grand kids. Saved a few quid buying via Ali I hope. Would like to know what you think of the MM.

Ignore above, stupid question, what I meant to ask will the leads supplied surfice for household electrics as I have read with other MMs some leads are not up to the job. For a couple of extra quid, I can purchase the 6000, what do you think?

Thanks Warrior, I will take a look this evening, will the AstroAl , 4000 do for household electrics as well?

No nothing of their MMs, do know, 30-35 years ago I purchased a Martindale 3 pin 240v socket tester, still have it, gets used occasionaly, it rattles around in one of my tool boxes, still works, still going strong.

Hi Warrior and thanks. I'm stupid, my new smart charger is more smarter then me. I read, you can leave permanently connected to car, which is why I thought charger was going to be small for engine compartment, what it meant was, you can leave extra ring terminal lead connected if so desired,--dohh.?😬 I didn't see extra lead in box, that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it, what was I thinking, so stupid--mutter--mutter. What DMM would you recommend? I will give new battery a charge and thanks for tips on between charges, appreciated.

Thanks Nigel, I edited your reply just so mine was more focused but all was taken on board and appreciated. I am getting a new EFB battery, either the same size or a little larger, one of the reasons why I started this and my other thread. I am not ever going to use the old battery again, I just want to see if it could be brought back to life and hold a charge out of the car--but it will be discarded. I read about old car battery recycle values and have wondered whom its recycle it to? The battery jacket, if like for like battery, a simple swap, existing jacket will fit, If I opt for a slightly larger battery ( 096 ), I will purchase a 2nd hand heat jacket, doesn't matter from what vehicle, cut, alter and join to my existing jacket, making a neat a job of it as possible. The reason why I have explored fitting a slightly larger battery is the way the vehicle will be used/unused and more CCA during the winter months but I might be over hhinking this and unnecessary work. I won't be adding anything more extra electrical as such so a replacement existing size battery will cope just fine, it is just a larger battery would give me more CCA during winter months. Having said that, a new battery of same size when fitted and then maintained, the engine should roar into life, winter and summer. You wrote, ----" the Ah rating is the same for the VW computer program(s)". If I understand you, what you are saying is the vehicle needs to be coded so it recognises same new or larger battery and Ah. Which ever VAG I use to sort my Yeti will have all the diagnostic equipment and code battery accordingly and in my case it's more important as the existing battery is so flat, so dead the vehicle will have lost all sorts of codes--I think. ( there was a time, not so long a go, some batteries came with BEM codes to input but this is no longer the case ). You had a troll, me to, several over the years, you can't stop them, ( a scene from Lord of the Rings reminds me of them, mindless and crawling all over the walls ), a solution, don't let their **** stick, they can fling it but you can wash, if others want to take on board what they have said, verbatim like, then they get to share, it's stuck to them.

Hi Warrior, As I was reading yours, the door bell rang, new Ring Charger arrived. Stopped reading, out of the box it came and--well--erm--well I wasn't sure what I was expecting. Having read I could leave it permently fixed inside the engine compartment, I don't see how. Don't get me wrong, it looks great, just bigger then I was expecting--I mean it's not huge or that big by any means, just bigger then I thought. I am left thinking, if not so dumb and it's smart, how come its that big. 😀 The Ring's user manual, if a picture, ( several ), can say a thousand words, honestly it says sweet FA. Pictures are great but manual requires some writen instructions/information along side--jeez! Fortunatly I am now ahead of the game a bit. Back to reading yours and thanks. My existing battery is screwed, I'm having a new battery. However I'm just curious if it could bring such a dead battery back to life and hold on to its life, I'll find out. How long is a peice of string question this, when new battery arrives and it's unlikely to have a full charge, in your opnion how long should I leave it connected to the new charger? When you say, " give your new battery an occasional recharge during spells of low use", given the way my car will be used, how often is occasional?

Thanks Nigel, It doesn't matter if you are not a mechanic or expert in anything what can count, make a diffrence is knowledge/experience---good advise based on that should always be appreciated. I have a 2016, start/stop 1.2 TSI Yeti which has not run now for 3 years, family circumstances, to long a story. What is important is the existing factory fitted 60amp EFB battery is obviously dead flat and probably had it. Regardless, I will fit a new 027, 60amp EFB battery or upgrade to a slightly larger 096 EFB battery. It did occur to me because of my now driving habits, the car will get used a couple of times a week and for very short trips then left for the rest of the week. It might get a couple of long trips a month when I visit the kids/grand-kids. But I'm thinking such driving may not be enough to maintain the new battery in good condition, making sure it starts. So asked about it here and a couple of other forums and the consensus was, get your self a trickle charger, which I did. Because of budget constraints, I can't just throw money at things any more, everyone was saying a CTEK charger was the way to go. However I purchased a Ring RSC808 smart charger, it had decent enough reviews, should be arriving as I write this and I haven't got a new battery as yet. My inexperience, I got confused with terminology, what a trickle charger, smart charger was, the difference between terms. What also put me in a spin was reading smart chargers may not charge a battery if car battery is below a certain level, I didn't know this, the fix was to hook battery up to a standard charger for a while, then let the smart charger take over, if I understand correctly. I knew I had a RAC dumb charger, the picture I posted, wasn't sure if it was OK to use it on a EFB battery if I ever had to. Hopefully I should never have to use the dumb charger, If I maintain the new car battery with the Ring charger. I have always thought it better to remove a battery for charging but with modern cars, their ECUs/codes and so, not always practical. I am aware even if a battery is removed, once refitted, ECU/Codes/Memory will come back to life within a few minutes but have read this isn't always the case and can cause real issues, so removing a flat battery for charging isn't always best as it will hopefully still have enough in it to retain ECU/code details if left connected. When trickle charging-- is it best to connect to battery positive terminal and engine/chassis negative or is that Jump start rules? Here is the label details on the back of my dumb charger.

I vaguely remember my oldest brother once starting a car bumper to bumper.

Thanks Warrior. This is my charger--dumb battery charger, it's about 8 years old now, would it be ok to use it to charge an EFB battery if I had to?

Thanks muppix, didn't know that about AGM batteries and charging them. How about EFB batteries can a dumb charger be used prior to using a trickle charger?

Thanks Warrior, much appriciated.

Hi, Are you saying connect the dumb battery charger and the trickle charger to the car battery at the same time? When I first started vaping, I used Eneloop for my mod' decent batteries.

Thanks Carlston, all made sense.😀

Standard, EFB. AGM, Start Stop, regardless of size, sealed for life. Scenarios, using a dumb 12v battery charger and the vehicle concerned has modern eletronics, ECU and so on. 1 ) A dead flat battery, is it safe to charge battery while still in the car connected? 2) A battery that has discharged to a point it won't start the car but not completly flat, is it safe to charge battery while still in the car connected? 3) If battery needs to be removed, are you better off fast charging it for a few hours and then trickle/slow charge for 24-48 hours? If you have an option to charge at 4 amps or 8 amps, which opption? ( obviously there maybe issues removing a battery, retention of codes and so on. )