weeloon

If the 'low oil level' lamp comes on the only thing that will switch it off is the ECU recognising the bonnet gas been opened & closed. Regardless of whether you top up the oil the level won't be rechecked for 100km (aprox 60 miles) whereby if its not been topped up the light will come back on. Your problem has been the ECU has not recognised the bonnet being opened/closed which if your wipers/washers worked with the bonnet open confirms but as the light gas now gone out suggests a bad connection to the bonnet switch. Make sure this is explained clearly when you take the car into the garage as it won't be stored as a fault as the ECU seeing the bonnet shut is normal. Hope that's a help

Just because you have the 'SKI' number & chassis number doesn't mean they will give you the security code over the phone. If that was the case then I could smash your window, nick your stereo, take a note of the chassis number since its on display at the windscreen and next day phone your pal Ben at Skoda to get the code. Whoever in the garage gets the code uses their own user id to login to the secure site, so let's say after I nick your stereo and Ben gives me the code over the phone you get out of bed realise your stereo has gone and call the police, after a day or so it's traced to Ben getting the code (which is what would happen). At this point Ben is the person responsible and the theft lays at his door "you gave a radio code out over the phone?" "yeah sure, your nicked mate" Poor Ben has a hard time ahead of him..... However what should happen is Ben should have a job card with a customers name/address & signature, then the responsibility is passed to the service advisor who should have seen 2 types of id as proof of who the person is or should know them. That's the process which stops the majority of stereos from being stolen these days, traceability which is why they won't just do it over the phone as your casually suggesting is what should have happened.......

Both on my current VRS & previous 1.9tdi furby over the last 3 winters have ran the same 15" steel wheels (from an old Octavia) with 195 Michelin m&s tyres on the front. Insurance noted & no additional costs. November-March. Both cars drove perfect & on the occasions of bad weather 195's were ideal over a wider tyre. And they will be going on again this year, they have deffinetly been cost effective & very much peace of mind during bad weather.

Cheers, it's a good steady one at least Only ever had V-Power in it since PDI

Didn't see you there but got mine Rolling roaded today at extreme, hopefully the img link works, and yes the car has no performance mods so I'm very happy with the results.

There's actually a "Skoda approved" warranty repair for the noise mentioned which is along the lines of rubber wedges, had mine done recently. It's a known issue with a known repair, let's see how good your local Skoda garage are

Columbus didn't work with my steering wheel buttons, albeit it was a Vw rns510 unit. Amundsen works great. Sat nav Ariel & mic required is all

I usually see and defo hear any windscreen chip too, but the ones on the front end of the car I don't, I do touch them in to stop them rusting on the bonnet though. I will agree its not a common fault but more common these days only because a/c is way more common. The 1st time I experienced it? A mk3 16v vw golf under warranty so probably 1995/6. Pulled a vacuum on the system which it held fine and when regassing the system got hit in the leg by a stone and then some very cold gas. **** happens

The flasher unit is not a 'single relay' it's built into a control unit which is located roughly where they have said. The clicking you hear when your indicators now comes from a 'clicky thing' inside the dash insert which is operated along with the dash indicator lights. So I don't think wiggling a relay will help unfortunately.

I'm with this. The fact it's just been serviced sounds like they have left a pipe off somewhere :/

One piece are immo4 so chassis number ordered. If you can retain the transponder & swap the blade you can always code in the remote fob part but I've never split that key type to find a transponder. If you can't salvage the transponder then it looks like a factory order.

I can't believe the OP thinks this is either the garages fault or Skoda UK's fault. The layout of the car is no worse than any other manufacturers. Going by some suggestions you better put a mesh grill in front of the windscreen as is so stupidly placed its bound to get stone chipped! Poor garage being told they can't get thier courtesy car back, I wonder how many other customers are now delayed as the car they had booked wasn't available and their children now can't go where they need to? Grow up & either pay to have it fixed or live without your a/c.

Any 'electrically' controlled/monitored fault can make the ECU go into limp mode. Example - was driving mine last December in torrential rain on the motorway and a land rover pulled out in front of me, options were hammer on the brakes or nail the throttle and pull out past it avoiding traffic coming up the outside lane. So I nailed the throttle & for 1second lost power & eml flashed then bingo everything ok. To cut the story short turns out when the charger kicked in there had been water on the electromagnetic clutch due to the weather which allowed it to initially slip, the ECU noted an airflow fault and did what it's programmed to do. Was there a fault? No, driving conditions more than explained it. Could your issue be along the same lines? Could be anything, get it on a diag machine before panicking over what could be nothing

Was planning taking my Golf to that rr day, maybe see if I can take it & my furby and give you a stock comparison for the day?

Still slighty off topic but squeezed in 50ltrs after a run to Alton Towers at the weekend, said '5 miles to go' admittedly I pushed the vent button in when filling it but can defo consistently get 50-55 litres in doing this. Either that or 5 different stations all have faulty pumps and my mpg is far better than it should be.