weeloon

If the 'low oil level' lamp comes on the only thing that will switch it off is the ECU recognising the bonnet gas been opened & closed. Regardless of whether you top up the oil the level won't be rechecked for 100km (aprox 60 miles) whereby if its not been topped up the light will come back on. Your problem has been the ECU has not recognised the bonnet being opened/closed which if your wipers/washers worked with the bonnet open confirms but as the light gas now gone out suggests a bad connection to the bonnet switch. Make sure this is explained clearly when you take the car into the garage as it won't be stored as a fault as the ECU seeing the bonnet shut is normal. Hope that's a help

Just because you have the 'SKI' number & chassis number doesn't mean they will give you the security code over the phone. If that was the case then I could smash your window, nick your stereo, take a note of the chassis number since its on display at the windscreen and next day phone your pal Ben at Skoda to get the code. Whoever in the garage gets the code uses their own user id to login to the secure site, so let's say after I nick your stereo and Ben gives me the code over the phone you get out of bed realise your stereo has gone and call the police, after a day or so it's traced to Ben getting the code (which is what would happen). At this point Ben is the person responsible and the theft lays at his door "you gave a radio code out over the phone?" "yeah sure, your nicked mate" Poor Ben has a hard time ahead of him..... However what should happen is Ben should have a job card with a customers name/address & signature, then the responsibility is passed to the service advisor who should have seen 2 types of id as proof of who the person is or should know them. That's the process which stops the majority of stereos from being stolen these days, traceability which is why they won't just do it over the phone as your casually suggesting is what should have happened.......

Both on my current VRS & previous 1.9tdi furby over the last 3 winters have ran the same 15" steel wheels (from an old Octavia) with 195 Michelin m&s tyres on the front. Insurance noted & no additional costs. November-March. Both cars drove perfect & on the occasions of bad weather 195's were ideal over a wider tyre. And they will be going on again this year, they have deffinetly been cost effective & very much peace of mind during bad weather.

Cheers, it's a good steady one at least Only ever had V-Power in it since PDI

Didn't see you there but got mine Rolling roaded today at extreme, hopefully the img link works, and yes the car has no performance mods so I'm very happy with the results.

There's actually a "Skoda approved" warranty repair for the noise mentioned which is along the lines of rubber wedges, had mine done recently. It's a known issue with a known repair, let's see how good your local Skoda garage are

Columbus didn't work with my steering wheel buttons, albeit it was a Vw rns510 unit. Amundsen works great. Sat nav Ariel & mic required is all

I usually see and defo hear any windscreen chip too, but the ones on the front end of the car I don't, I do touch them in to stop them rusting on the bonnet though. I will agree its not a common fault but more common these days only because a/c is way more common. The 1st time I experienced it? A mk3 16v vw golf under warranty so probably 1995/6. Pulled a vacuum on the system which it held fine and when regassing the system got hit in the leg by a stone and then some very cold gas. **** happens

The flasher unit is not a 'single relay' it's built into a control unit which is located roughly where they have said. The clicking you hear when your indicators now comes from a 'clicky thing' inside the dash insert which is operated along with the dash indicator lights. So I don't think wiggling a relay will help unfortunately.

I'm with this. The fact it's just been serviced sounds like they have left a pipe off somewhere :/

One piece are immo4 so chassis number ordered. If you can retain the transponder & swap the blade you can always code in the remote fob part but I've never split that key type to find a transponder. If you can't salvage the transponder then it looks like a factory order.

I can't believe the OP thinks this is either the garages fault or Skoda UK's fault. The layout of the car is no worse than any other manufacturers. Going by some suggestions you better put a mesh grill in front of the windscreen as is so stupidly placed its bound to get stone chipped! Poor garage being told they can't get thier courtesy car back, I wonder how many other customers are now delayed as the car they had booked wasn't available and their children now can't go where they need to? Grow up & either pay to have it fixed or live without your a/c.

Any 'electrically' controlled/monitored fault can make the ECU go into limp mode. Example - was driving mine last December in torrential rain on the motorway and a land rover pulled out in front of me, options were hammer on the brakes or nail the throttle and pull out past it avoiding traffic coming up the outside lane. So I nailed the throttle & for 1second lost power & eml flashed then bingo everything ok. To cut the story short turns out when the charger kicked in there had been water on the electromagnetic clutch due to the weather which allowed it to initially slip, the ECU noted an airflow fault and did what it's programmed to do. Was there a fault? No, driving conditions more than explained it. Could your issue be along the same lines? Could be anything, get it on a diag machine before panicking over what could be nothing

Was planning taking my Golf to that rr day, maybe see if I can take it & my furby and give you a stock comparison for the day?

Still slighty off topic but squeezed in 50ltrs after a run to Alton Towers at the weekend, said '5 miles to go' admittedly I pushed the vent button in when filling it but can defo consistently get 50-55 litres in doing this. Either that or 5 different stations all have faulty pumps and my mpg is far better than it should be.

Done

1 yes, however the plastic housing won't have 2 missing after the service? Either way the garage should replace it either under warranty as its came adrift or because they lost it, a minimum is they should have reported its missing, did they? 3 the garage should have reset it so when your in getting the cover fixed get them to do it ( you can do it yourself but best it's done right ) 4 yes and they are

Managed 55 litres in mine tonight from "zero miles" that's over 2 gallons before it even goes down to being a full tank.

Thought I recognised that pic Plastic primed the cover after masking of the smalle rectangular parts and the brand badge then rattle canned it. The only thing if your thinking of doing it yourself is make sure the paintsnfully hardened before refitting it as road grime ie sand grains will sink into it if it's not fully dried/hardened. The heat shield was a nightmare! Did it with "extreme temperature paint" due to it being so close to the turbo, prepped it right etc and it flaked so cleaned it back to the metal and got some good old faithful Hammerite smooth and fired it on, few months on and it's still 100%. Due to the colour of the car I fitted a black coolant expansion cap and for the washer bottle cap to rid the bay of the last of the blue used a black vinyl paint often used for interior trims. The idea was to keep it inline with the white/black paintwork & red clippers/seat colour. And below how it looked at DC12.5 in Wishaw

Not so sure on the darkened rear lights, maybe just the white parts inside the 'C' and maintain the matching colour? Just looked though this whole thread for the 1st time, good read

If it works it will rule out broken wiring But as you say if it doesn't work it doesn't so no loss?

Try Unlocking it manually with the key and hold it in the unlocked position. The windows should go down & vice versa locking and holding the key in the locking position closes them. (yes comfort closing should work with remotes but using the key in the door is a manual operation that rules out broken wiring. If this works all your wiring to both doors is ok and most likely the dual switch in the drivers door has had water in it from rain when the windows been open. And as above yes it can be the wires breaking at that mileage too. I could also be the motor/ecu but get the easy checks done 1st

I fitted eibachs to my VRS at PDI and now done over 11k, imo it looks like they should from the factory and as everyone is asking, no there's been no change over these miles. I would say its not any harsher than standard and only feels tighter when cornering. Don't have a before pic, only after.

Sounds like you have an obsession with something that's normal, my Fabia is similar. When filling it to do a long run I make sure its full by click click click at the petrol station. Then get aprox 45mpg, so given the width of the float on the sender and the fact it's full halfway up the filler neck don't expect it to move for about 100 miles at least as the float will be held to the top of the tank. I'm guessing your getting over 60mpg on a longer run so wouldn't expect it to move for 150 at least if you fill it as full as you can. How deep do you think 9 litres of fuel are spread over the width of the tank? The height of the float is probably 1.5cm so your 9 litres would have to drop that far before the gauge moves so if you have a couple of litres up the filler neck is very possible your gauge is working perfectly. Given the size of the tank in the owners manual have you ever compared it to how much you put in? I often get an extra 5 litres in and obviously with whatever's still in the tank means probably 8 litres fuller than its specified as holding. The computer can only estimate on the gauge and full is full so until the float moves can't tell you otherwise. I'm also sure the garage didn't just fob you off as you seem to be saying? Maybe they did but I doubt it

I hope you take it back to Henry's for it's service work after it being fixed there.