Bazmcc

Here's my current modules. The 2 in the pic together do nothing and are faulty. The one on the pic on it's own is the odd mismatched opposite side mix up one.

My pass switch up puts the drivers window down, pass switch down puts the drivers door window up. My drivers switch up puts the passengers window up, drivers switch down puts the passengers door window down.

I'll check this out later when I get home. I suppose this might be possible. At the time I bought the motor, the only way I could get one with that part number after a lot of searching back then was on ebay via a european parts seller

Hi Pete I definitely need your help. I have 2 faulty motor units or else one faulty car. Maybe you know the fault already. The passenger switch in the drivers door operates my drivers window and the drivers window switch operates the passenger window but the switch is back to front so up is down and down is up. Any ideas? I suspect it might be a wiring fault but i'm not sure. I'm going to be stripping parts off this week to check connectors etc so any pointers would be good. I have 2 motor units with the same part number.

@Wino Your colours appear to match what I have in the door. I want to go through each pin and check it out with a multimeter. It may be the weekend before I get a chance to do that though. I'm particularly interested in finding out if the earth connections are solid and reliable as dead earth lines can reverse signals in certain circuits. We see this sometimes in tail lights in cars where the earth is dead and the wrong bulb starts flashing. French cars are prime candidates for this. My plan is to basically wire direct lines to each pin to where it should be connected elsewhere in the car to see if i can identify any suspect parts of the loom. Because the fabia door cards are riveted it rules out me doing a proper test mid loom within the door without having to rebuild it.

I'll hopefully get to check these pin numbers and colours out this evening to compare.

I took the wiring diagram from a 9n3 polo to get the pin outs of the 2 connectors that go into the top of the window motor. I'm not sure it'll help much but worth having it here for reference. If someone has elsawin for skoda to cross reference it would be good but i'm pretty sure the pins should be the same. T6aa - 6 pin connector 1 - ro/ws - front left window switch (pin 4) 2 - sw/bl - LIN bus 3 - ro/gn - rear left door switch pin 4 - not used 4 - ro/bl - rear right door switch pin 2 - not used 5 - li/gr - rear window reg isolator switch - not used 6 - nc t8h - 8 pin connector 1 - br - earth on A pillar 2 - ro/ge - fuse 31 25A 3 - li/ws - LIN bus 4 - br/ge - drivers side lock module pin 8 5 - bl/ws - drivers side lock module pin 4 6 - br - earth in door loom 7 - ro/ge - front right window switch (pin 2) 8 - bl/ge - drivers side lock module pin 4

Relay tested and working perfectly fine. Back to the drawing board. There's a QR code on one of the chips which i scanned and it just came up with the number 00421478 so probably some number relevant to Temic who make these boards.

So here's the relay. I'll have a look at the circuit and see if i can test it. It would be great if it was as simple as a faulty relay https://uk.farnell.com/panasonic-electric-works/act512/relay-automotive-spdt-14vdc-20a/dp/2292929

Yes both second hand. The relay is on the motor side of the circuit so it would be switched by the controller and send power to the motor terminals.

Checked out the board under magnification. Nothing obvious wrong, no cracks, scorches or burned components. One large relay on the board. My initial thoughts are to test it but it's been a while since I worked with relays and without knowing how it's wired i'll need to do some research to fin out how it's operated. I'm going to put a few volts to the brushes and just make sure the motor fires up first.

I'll go and get the one that stopped and open it up.

6Y2959802

And I know it appears to be a lhd vs rhd type of problem but I have seen this same problem appear on another couple of posts out of the blue with the original motor so I'm not sure if there's some way to do a reset of everything or if there's a problem elsewhere.

So despite the main part number being the same they can be LHD and RHD? Is it possible to rewire the switches? I have a spare switch unit. I wouldn't mind doing this if it got me by for a bit.

So I have a 2006 fabia vrs here in which the door motor stopped working after being sat up for a while. I got another motor (2 actually) with the same part numbers etc. The first motor i fitted works as follows. My pass switch up puts the drivers window down, pass switch down puts the drivers door window up. My drivers switch up puts the passengers window up, drivers switch down puts the passengers door window down. Second motor was installed to test. Windows worked perfectly as normal, pass window up and down, drivers window up and down as normal. Reinstalled door card, put drivers window down all the way no problem, window came up 6 inches and then just stopped and hasn't worked since. First motor back in again, same issues as above. Key in the door reset etc fixes nothing because one window goes up and the other goes down. Any help would be great, I don't mind soldering or rewiring if needed. I have plenty of experience in wiring, have vcds, vag tacho, vag can commander etc etc etc.

Just a quick message here to say the lights are sold to Gavin. A few people had messaged me about them. Sorry folks. (I'll probably regret selling them myself at some stage)

Yip, couple of pics would help.

Hi Mick If it's the same as the MK4 golfs you need to hold one of the buttons to go to the menu and select navigation. Maybe try that. Otherwise you might need the coding in the clocks checked to make sure the say nav is still activated. Also check and make sure the sat nav loom is still plugged into the back of your head unit.

I have a set I'm not using. I might part with them as they need a couple of parts and I just haven't had time to look at them to get them sorted yet. PM me if you're interested.

I'm trying to suss out which rear beam bushes I should get. Has anyone got a link to ebay for a decent set to go for? Not really bothered about getting polybushed on the rear beam because I don't think it's worth it on my daily driver. It's a VRS by the way.

I'll try it again but they have been tightened, torqued, retightened and retorqued so many times. I might try putting a washer in to tighten up any slack in them to see if that helps.

Where do we start. Wishbone bushes, front and rear. Rear axel beam bushes CV boots Rear engine mount in the subframe leaks behind the door carriers - both front and rear, you need to lift the back seats and lift the carpet which folds up the front and feel the soundproofing at the back. Just because the carpet is dry doesn't mean it's not leaking. There will be about 4 gallons of water in the soundproofing before it shows through the carpets. Rust in the rear arches and tailgate EGR sticking, or seeping oil. Intercooler pipes (if they haven't broke already, they will). the gearbox in general (it's a 6 speed, it'll probably give you trouble at some stage) Door lock modules (trust me,. they'll go faulty at some stage) Rear latch - the rear wiper can leak and corrode the rear latch switch. AC control panel can go faulty Gearknob paint and gaitor wears easily. Tandem pump gasket can leak easily. Power steering pump can fail Steering angle sensors are also a common fault. Coolant temp sensor (every Vag car I know has needed one at some stage) Alternator wire breaking in front of the starter or under the battery.

Yip, new bolts as well. The rear wishbone bushes I have are the cupra ones. The standard cupra ones are fine. The poly rear ones are too harsh and not worth the extra money.

I think I've been through 2 sets already and I have poly bushes in at the front and I think they are on the way out too. I also think that they play between the bolt and the metal inner tube is causing horrible clicking noises as well on acceleration and braking as the tubes are moving. Has anyone got a good solution to fix these or an alternative way of mounting the front of the wishbones?