Roots Supercharger

P.S. My Superb only thumps/bonks through it's speakers when the engine is switch off, otherwise with the engine running the alternator will raise the battery voltage and stop the noise.

I stop my Superb thumping through the speakers by charging the battery. I have not driven the car for the last month because of the salt that's put on the roads ( I drive the wife's KIA instead). A few days ago the Superb was thumping away to warn me the battery needed charging . I charged the battery and all is now peace.

Yes, changing the relay cured the problem, the car is running and starting as it should. I now carry a spare just in case.

With my car it is a warning that the battery voltage is getting too low. It happens to me when I Hoover the car out and I have left the doors open, with their lights on, for too long.

i would check the alternator pulley clutch. it

Hatch not opening is one indication that there is a problem with the LHS boot hinge wiring. Read the helpful Briskoda how to guide 'Skoda Superb Guides' under the heading of 'Superb Twin Door Wiring Fix', I think it might help you.

Read the very helpful Birskoda, Skoda Superb Guides article 'Superb Twindoor Wiring Fix'. This might be your problem, it was mine.

Is your Superb a MK11 Twindoor? I have just repaired the wiring to the boot at the LHS boot hinge of my 2009 Mk11Twindoor. About 5 wires were bare and/or broken. I had a fluctuating parasitic drain of 1.5 to 12 amps. The wiring at the boot hinge is a well known problem and I now only open the back as a hatch.

I get the same symptoms when I hoover my Skoda. It is a warning of low battery voltage because I have all the doors open and the radio on.

From new, my Superb 11 came without chrome door trim. I added OE chrome trim to the doors and it came fitted with double sided strong glue tape. No rivets were used or required.

I am happy with my Tayna AGM Exide EK700.

A job worth doing. Whilst I had the front wheels off my 2009 Superb 11, I loosened the bottom rear edge of the wheelarch liners (where a mud flap fits) to expose the metal surrounded small cavity behind. There was 2 inches of compacted, frozen, leaf detritus blocking the scuttle drain exit where it drains onto the ground. Luckily, there was no sign of rust.

Smallholdertoo, you say you had to brake very sharply. I seem to remember that some owners have had a similar problem which strangely turned out to be a faulty brake light switch. Do your brake lights work?

On reflection, I don't think the X8R repair kit will fit your unit unless you can drill and tap or rivet your old pulley etc.

As it looks like you will need a repair kit, I would Google X8R Ltd. of Ramsgate and ask if they have any bright ideas.

I have a standard ride height Skoda 11, 2009 twindoor, and when it is 4 up, with an empty boot, it has always grounded on most sleeping policemen, even at very slow speeds. I am thinking my next tyres will be 205/60/16 to lift the car up a bit higher. I have fitted a 205/60/16 tyre to my spare wheel and it fits all corners of the car with room to spare.

My 1.4L, 09, Superb 11 has a normal tick over speed of 700 RPM. However on any start-up, at any temperature, the RPM is a lottery. I either get 1300 RPM with a rich mixture misfire for 10 seconds and then the RPM descends, or I get a steady smooth 900 RPM that then descends. When I get the 1300 RPM start-up I switch the engine off immediately and then restart and always get the smooth 900RPM.

I think if the engine is starting and running OK I would leave it as it is. What does your service garage recommend? It is the PD engine (which the EA189 is not) where the pump timing is very critical.

From what I understand about the EA189 engine is that the timing of the fuel pump is not of the utmost importance, that is why it has adjustable mounting slots in it's drive pulley to help in timing belt fitting. However 3 belt notches is a surprise. Injector timing on this engine is electronically controlled.

If your clutch hydraulics are the same as my 2L diesel Eos I would check it is not a problem with your clutch pedal return speed restrictor. I removed the internal restricting valve from it's housing to improve pedal return speed and feel. It was a an easy job, valve is in the hydraulic clutch line above the gearbox and just below the side of the battery , if my memory is correct. You will need to bleed the clutch.

When I drive my EOS and SUPERB I push the clutch pedal down to the bump stop. This is far too far past the clutch bite/release point and must put stain on the clutch diaphragm spring etc.. Therefore when the cars were newish I glued half an inch of rubber to the face of the bump stop to limit clutch pedal downward travel. I think there is now an adjustable bump stop on the market that does the same thing. This mod. must take a lot of wear and tear off the clutch clamp spring parts.

Some years ago, out of the blue, my 2009 CR EOS would not start, turned over OK but no sign of starting. I disconnected the battery for a few minutes then reconnected it and the car started first time. If you turned off the engine it would not restart unless you first disconnected/reconnected the battery. I swapped over the relay which is located in the front middle of the under bonnet fuse box (marked 100 on it's top) with an identical one from my 2009 SKODA and the starting problem was transferred to the SKODA. This relay has a electrical anti spike resistor fitted across it's energizing coil to dampen out any electrical spike on de-energizing. This resistor did not work and therefore the relay was upsetting the other electronics in the car when you turned the ignition off. Replacing the relay cured the starting problem.

Is the 100mm key a direct replacement or do you also need to replace one of the balance shafts to accommodate the extra length?

Check your alternator regulator slip ring carbon brushes for wear.

Check if water pump is leaking.