skoda2007
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Posts posted by skoda2007
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On 31 March 2018 at 17:14, Gary17 said:
Open drivers door and u need to cut rubber away between hinges exposing wiring loom, u will then notice a couple of broken wires off constant bending of door opening that are snapped, usually orange red and thinner orange, connect these together and will work again, lad at taxi rank where I work , it happened to him yesterday and I sorted it, hope this helps mate.
Thanks Gary, will give it a try before forking out a small fortune on a new loom. Will keep you posted,
Cheerio
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On 22 April 2017 at 22:01, gianthotdog said:
I think there is a master controller in both front doors.
Drivers side doors are controlled by controller in drivers front.
Passenger side doors controlled by control module in passenger front.
mine did this recently. Solved with new loom in front passenger door.
Where did you got your part from? Did you research the part number yourself or got it from the dealer? Intrigued to find out how to get the correct part number as dealer not very cooperative. Is there a website that allows one to input his reg. no. or chassis no. to get the right part no.? Surely there has got to be a way as dealership prices are a bit too much for most.
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Hey guys,
Please help as my "trusted specialist mechanic" left me with inoperative locks/windows on driver's side; need wire loom OEM number. Dealership/Tps will not provide so, any ideas on how to get it?
many thanks to all you,
Georg
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Mistery solved, thank you for your support. A great day to all of you.
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Hi guys,
Could anyone advise on how to identify the exact model of a Skoda octavia? I need to order some steering parts but I am being asked for the model number ? Eg. 1U or something similar? Any help is appreciated. Thank you
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Great info!!! Makes you wonder why on earth manufacturers are not capable of such compiling info?! It would make our life so much easier unless...well, I leave it up to your own interpretation.
I would also like to add for comment the following info:
I have initially used the 5w-30 Platinum long life supplied by TPS, but found it to cause valve ticking issues in hot whether climate while the consumption of oil and file seems higher?
I am now using the Triple QX 5w-40 oil, 505.01 spec, and have used it for over 2 years now. I am covering about 50.000 miles a year and do an oil and filter change every 10.000miles, and I have to say that it was an excellent choice, engine runs smooth in all whether conditions, morning start takes only a half turn, while the oil consumption is about 1L every change. Was wondering if anyone has had a similar experience?
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Hi there,
I have recently replaced my clutch & flywheel, after almost 114.000 miles done on the previous ones. Just before changing them, those where the symptoms:
- difficulties in getting it into gears, especially when cold
- difficulties in getting it out of gears, especially after a long motorway run
- difficulties with the clutch pedal, as it was staying too low, needed help with pulling it up after each depress action
- at times, the clutch pedal would become to soft, making it almost impossible to engage into any gear.
Previous DMF was a Sachs model, the new one is LUK.
Took the car out of my local independent garage on Monday, all ok, clutch feels a bit soft, probably is the new feeling,but all gears go in, no issues, however, after doing about 100 miles, I have noticed that in the 3rd gear, wile in low revs ( 1250-1500 rpm ),on acceleration, the car suddenly starts shaking badly,unless I very very very gently accelerate through that gear. This symphtom is getting even worst, when on an uphil drive, so bad that I have to drop the gear to make it. The origin of the vibrations is from the engine bay and it does it only in 3rd gear.
To mention that the shaking symptom I had with the previous set too, but that only happened a few days before I knew that it needed replacing , and it was doing it in the first gear only.
Rung up my mechanic, got booked in for a check up, initial feeling is that he is very dismissive at the idea that "there could be anything wrong with the fitted parts, since they are all brand new", he said.
I do also remember that when the previous DMF part was fitted, I experienced unusual noise and vibrations,took it to a skoda dealership who decided that the DMF was faulty!! after only 2000 miles.
After some run-ins with Skoda uk, managed to replace it under warranty, although initially they refused as it wasn't done by an approved garage.
I really hope that one of you good Samaritans outhere, can help me out with some good,honest advice, befor eI get ripped-off by the garage.
Many thanks
Gabriel
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Thanks to all of you for your replies; I have no choice but to have an investigation done by a VAG group authorised garage and upon their findings I will make a decision to either go Legal or kick some but.
Will keep you all posted!
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I cannot believe that aim the only one experiencing problems with DMF and clutch,after having them replaced with new original parts from TPS? The last posting seen on this site,which matches exactly my findings, was made by TAXI 219 ( banned since!!!),in 2007.
Is it possible that I am the only one? Common......
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Anyone interested in a decent non-dealer to do the servicing on their Skoda could do a lot worse than try Volksline. They have been around for a long time and know their VAG stuff - several very experienced staff. They serviced my wife's old Polo and now do both my Skoda and her Ibiza. Labour rates are much cheaper than a main dealer and they sort problems out without any hassle or delay - also have loan cars available in my experience although not sure how "guaranteed" this is.
Anyone knows to wether those guys are part of the VW Group Authorised Repair Network?
Thxs
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Guys,
I am looking for recommendations for Authorised VW Group Repair Centres in Kent area,Dartford,Medway,Canterbury,Ashford etc. For independent and main dealer garages.
Thanks
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As you drive up Gasoline Alley, they are the first unit on the right.
Anyone knows to wether those guys are an Authorised VW Group Repair Centre?
I would really need one,but I want to stay away from main dealers for as long as possible.
Thxs
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I may be cynical, but it seems to me that TPS and your independent are in hand in hand on this.
No clutch vibration is normal, especially as you say it wasn't vibrating before it was changed,and it could be argued that the whole idea of a DMF is to reduce vibration anyway.
Get a 2nd opinion from someone who knows what they are talking about. I would very much suspect that its the DMF that's faulty, and if so, TPS will have no choice but to take the parts back and refund you.
Personally I would advise you to get a refund, and get a 4 part Valeo single mass flywheel conversion done. I did this last year, and have never been happier. It's quieter and much smoother than it ever was on a DMF, and wouldn't hesitate in having this conversion done.
Mike
Thank you for your reply Mike,
I am going to have another opinion from another specialist; I will be trying another skoda garage and see what they say and will keep u posted.
Regards
Gabi
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just had my new SACHS clutch and dmf changed,done about 2000 miles,and experience massive vibrations at around 40mph from engine area and a knocking vibration coming through the clutch while depressed half a course. Bought them original from TPS, who advise me on the model that would go best. I have complained about those sympthoms,after my independent mechanic advised me that the problem could only be related to the dmf,but they were reluctant into exchanging the parts.
I have contacted skoda customer service who said that they were unaware of any problems. They have arranged for me to see a local skoda specialist (Sherlodge garage), who told me after only 20 minutes of inspection that the clutch was fine. I have insisted that they take it for a ride,and the answer was the same. They said that the vibration I get through the clutch( symptoms similar to a heart beep),where normal and also that the noise that I hear while the clutch is slightly depressed is normal (similar to a drum beat) The previous clutch was changed after 95000 miles and only because I was starting to have difficulties getting into the reverse gear,but I have never ever experienced such problems with a new original clutch. Another symptom I have experienced since having it fitted was a hissing noise that could only be from the clutch,and was happening (and it still happens now) mostly when in the first gear and going either uphill or when the car is loaded even only with another passenger.
Is it right for TPS Medway not to proceed with immediate replacement of this part but to look for ways into delaying it's replacement? I have honestly spent so much moneys this summer with them and now,seeing the kind of problems I am running into,it looks like I have made a really bad choice choosing them as my main supplier. I am also considering legal action if this is my only hope to solve the problem.
I would appreciate very much your thoughts and past experiences on this matter,please help.
Thank you
PS: I have some pics taken from the clutch and flywheel,PM me and I will send them
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just had my new SACHS clutch and dmf changed,done about 2000 miles,and experience massive vibrations at around 40mph from engine area and a knocking vibration coming through the clutch while depressed half a course. Bought them original from TPS, who advise me on the model that would go best. I have complained about those sympthoms,after my independent mechanic advised me that the problem could only be related to the dmf,but they were reluctant into exchanging the parts.
I have contacted skoda customer service who said that they were unaware of any problems. They have arranged for me to see a local skoda specialist (Sherlodge garage), who told me after only 20 minutes of inspection that the clutch was fine. I have insisted that they take it for a ride,and the answer was the same. They said that the vibration I get through the clutch( symptoms similar to a heart beep),where normal and also that the noise that I hear while the clutch is slightly depressed is normal (similar to a drum beat) The previous clutch was changed after 95000 miles and only because I was starting to have difficulties getting into the reverse gear,but I have never ever experienced such problems with a new original clutch. Another symptom I have experienced since having it fitted was a hissing noise that could only be from the clutch,and was happening (and it still happens now) mostly when in the first gear and going either uphill or when the car is loaded even only with another passenger.
Is it right for TPS Medway not to proceed with immediate replacement of this part but to look for ways into delaying it's replacement? I have honestly spent so much moneys this summer with them and now,seeing the kind of problems I am running into,it looks like I have made a really bad choice choosing them as my main supplier. I am also considering legal action if this is my only hope to solve the problem.
I would appreciate very much your thoughts and past experiences on this matter,please help.
Thank you :(
PS: I have some pics taken from the clutch and flywheel,PM me and I will send them
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Could you please refer a manufacturer of cylinder heads with who you might have had to deal with in the past.
Many thanks
G.
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Why did you get the head skimmed what was wrong with it in the first place????
It was discovered that 2 valves were leaking when tested, plus the knocking noise heard while engine on idle.
Any suggestions where to find a reliable workshop who supplies recon cylinder head?
Thxs
.
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Hi,
Thanks for reply; it looks like the fuel supply line to injectors is build into the head. I was told that there is no plastic tube line but as you said,head might be cracked. I will have to wait until is pressure tested on Monday and will post updates.
I have just had the head skimmed and was wondering why the pressure test wasn't done? Is it true that it takes several hours to perform this test?
Also, could it be that the pistons,cylinders might be affected by this problem? The car was smoking badly but only diesel smell could be felt at the time,was advised to take it for a test?? and 3 miles down the road I stopped,having to pick up someone. Switched off the engine but when I try to restarted it will not start,making all sorts of noises. At one point,while trying to restart it,the battery cut-off,and I could not rev the engine anymore.
Based on this symptoms,could you advise on wether to pressure test it still,or to go for a recon engine?
Thank you
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just had my new SACHS clutch and dmf changed,done about 1000 miles,and experience massive vibrations at around 40mph from engine area and a knocking vibration coming through the clutch while depressed half a course. Bought them original from TPS, who advise me on the model that would go best. I have complained about those sympthoms,after my independent mechanic advise m ethat the problem could only be replated to the dmf,but they were reluctant into exchanging the parts and also they seemed to be unaware of any probs with the new dmf's.
I have contacted skoda customer service who said that they were unaware of any probs. AGAIN, with the dmf's,and they could not do nothing about it unless i would have it checked by a skoda gaarge.
Could you guys advise on this matter?
thxs
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Does anyone had experienced or knowledge of this problem: diesel filling up the engine oil bay?
i had new gasket fitted,engine head skimmed,new valves,new injectors loop wiring,and using premium diesel and engine oil 5w-40 Quantum Platinum reccomended for PD ENGINES.Mine is a pd tdi 105 with 196000 miles on the clock.
i had a diagnosis test run but there are no faults displaied.
in a desperate situation,please help.
thxs
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Also,in addition to the above query,could you guys help with some pics/diagrams which shows how to check the electric wires running from the N345 valve to the ECu unit? I know that this topic has been answered but I would still need more info (my mechanic needs help
)Thanks all
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as it's the vac type yes you could just vac it and it should move, at 195k I'm surprised anything could pass thro' however now you've done the dirty bit why not just replace but block off the vac line? unless it has some other mods it will work just as well but you will almost certainly get a dash light up which could be programmed out --probly not worth the cost it won't hurt if you can live with it--- if there is a problem just reconect the vac the main failure at high miles is the valve stem seal which allows oil to leak from the vent holes
Hi,
Would it be possible to just change this valve stern seal only,without replacing the whole unit? I have had a quote for the whole unit for about £75, but if I could avoid this cost by just replacing that seal,it would just be fantastic.
I was going to ask u another question related to why I found oil in the air intake manifold which connects to the turbo charger ,although all pipes have been cleaned and a new turbo installed? Would this be all related to the EGR stem valve seal? Could this damage my turbo,should I not do something about it?
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I can't advise you on the EGR, but what I would say is have you considered fitting an EGR delete kit?
Hi ,
No,I haven't , mainly due to my understanding that by doing this EGR delete op. its emissions will increase. I am into business with local government transport department,and their regulations are very strict regarding CO2 emissions.
Thanks anyway for your suggestion.
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Could anyone advise on the EGR unit,how to test it before deciding to go for a new one? I have heard from other forums that you can attach a vacuum pump and the valve should move upward? Is that true? I have had mine down,clean it of all the dirt accumulated over 195000 miles and pushed with the finger the valve in an upward movement,but it was impossible to move it. Could this be a sign that needs to be replaced?
Any feedback about your own past experience and knowledge would be appreciated.
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Superb door electrics have failed
in Skoda Superb Mk II (2008-2015)
Posted · Edited by skoda2007
Thanks Chimaera, did tried it a few days ago but it couldn't recognise my chassis no. so I sent them a request for support; still awaiting for it. Out of curiosity, do all chassis no's start with numbers or letters, as using their vin search facility it would appear to imply that it should start with a number?
Cheers,
Georg